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BMW 7-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • jt63jt63 Posts: 1
    Upon starting our engine, WARM, the idle immediately rises to about 700. Seconds later, the idle drops 200-300 RPM, the engine shudders for a second or two, then resumes smooth running at about 700 RPM.

    Technicians spent days trying to define and remedy the problem. They were unsuccessful. The corporation says the car is operating within normal standards.

    Any similar experience out there?
  • arcata1arcata1 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out where that relay is?

    Thanks
  • trs2trs2 Posts: 1
    Hello:
    I have an '01 740il with 116k miles. According to the diognostical electrical test when my car was last in the shop, I need a passenger control arm bushing. I have not yet needed to replace any of the bushings, however I did replace a tie-rod on this side of the car while it was under the extended warrenty at approx. 90k. My Kumho tires (never purchase again) are worn on the inside of both the passenger side tires. However, they probably still have 10k of life on them.

    What would be the estimated time to complete this project, since all places charge by the hour? Could there be another issue that the system failed to diagnose relative to the tire? Would you recommend replacing any other parts in the process?

    I have noticed that my car does "shimmy" at speeds around 50 mph, I hope that replacing the bushing would resolve the issue. If I would put new tires on the car, would you also recommend an allignment? Could I get the new tires and allignment at a future service date?

    Thanks for your input!
  • scholderscholder Posts: 14
    trying to replace a window regulator and while dismantling window having a problem in removing the rubber guide along the side of the window. There seems to be no starting point or joint where to work from and don't know if a special tool/trick is needed to get it started. The step before called for removing the outside metal covering strip which I did. Next step says remove screws and take off plate. Could someone help explain better?
  • papsephuspapsephus Posts: 15
    When I'm driving my car and am stopping at a red light or stop sign I get a bump that lurches the car forward right before I come to a stop. It has almost caused me to hit the car in front of me when I'm parking at the grocery store.

    The car is still under warranty, and they have done some reprogramming, but it has not worked. Has anyone else experienced this? I think I might need some transmission parts replaced, but I think they are holding off because I have 83,000 miles and the warranty is up in January '09.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    Sounds like a delayed and harsh downshift into 1st gear. Maybe electronic problem? They should be at least reading the trouble codes.

    Here's a TSB on the subject:

    SI B 24 17 07
    Automatic Transmission

    July 2007
    Technical Service

    SUBJECT
    Harsh 3-2 and/or 2-1 Downshifts

    MODEL
    E65 and E66 (7 Series) 745i and 745Li with N62 and GA6HP26Z transmission

    Vehicles from SOP up to 03/2005

    SITUATION
    IMPORTANT :Depending on the production date of the vehicle; there are different situations, and corrective measures, that must be carefully followed. Running production changes in vehicle hardware and software divide these situations into three distinct production periods.

    A. For vehicles produced from SOP up to and including 02/2003:

    ^ Harsh 3-2 and / or 2-1 downshift when slowing to a stop

    ^ Harsh downshift when accelerating at highway speeds

    ^ "Clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.

    B. For vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003

    ^ "Clunk" noise during 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.

    C. For vehicles produced from 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005

    ^ Harsh 3-2 downshift when slowing to a stop

    ^ "Clunk" noise during a 2-1 downshift while driving slowly to a rolling stop, or during load reversal as described in SI B24 14 07 and SI B26 01 06.

    CAUSES
    EGS software calibration

    Driveshaft guibo coupling deterioration for "clunk" noise complaints
    CORRECTION
    For Situation A: Harsh downshift complaints

    1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.

    2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain related faults first.

    3. Submit a Puma case titled "Coasting Jolt" to obtain the access code needed to complete the retrofit reprogramming of the EGS module.

    4. Start a Progman session using only V26.1.1 or higher and select "Coasting Jolt" from the retrofit options menu. The measures plan should indicate a higher programmed number and an EGS calibration change.

    5. Clear the EGS adaptations after programming is completed.
    For "clunk" noise complaints, vehicles produced 10/2002 up to and including 02/2003, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.

    For Situation B: "Clunk" noise complaints
    1. Verify the complaint

    On vehicles produced from 03/2003 up to and including 08/2003 the only repair is to inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
    Note :There are not any further EGS software changes for vehicles in this production period. For Situation

    For Situation C: Harsh 3-2 downshift complaints
    1. Verify that the transmission fluid level is correct.

    2. Perform a "Short test" and correct all Drivetrain related faults first.

    3. Submit a Puma case titled "Urban Program" to obtain the access code needed to complete the retrofit reprogramming of the EGS module.

    4. Start a Progman session using only V26.1.1 or higher and select "Urban Program" from the retrofit options menu. The measures plan should indicate a higher programmed number and an EGS calibration change.

    5. Clear the EGS adaptations after programming is completed.

    For "clunk" noise complaints, vehicles produced 09/2003 up to and including 02/2005, inspect the driveshaft guibo coupling for deterioration or separation as described in SI B24 14 07.
    WARRANTY INFORMATION
    Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

    Please refer to the latest KSD for all applicable labor operations and allowances.

    If the appropriate labor operation is not contained in KSD, then a work time labor operation should be used.

    Defect Code 24 00 39 61 00

    MODERATOR

  • papsephuspapsephus Posts: 15
    Thanks Mr. Shiftright,

    I am taking it back the dealer next week. They have always done a great job on my vehicle and I have always been pleased with their excellent service. But the vehicle has been in twice on this issue. Hopefully they can resolve it this time.

    I have had this vehicle for five years and I have to say that I love the engine, the handling, and the comfort. But this one thing spoils it all, especially when you have a new passenger and they say, "what was that!".
  • Hello all,
    I have had my 1998 740i for 6.5 years. At 75,00 miles it needs another brake job, both front and rear, however I don't want to pay the dealer the high $$'s, approx 1100.00 for the job. Anyone have a good experience having it done by someone else than the dealer and what price?

    Many thanks!

    Mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    That's actually not too bad price for that job, in my experience. I've seen it as high as $1,800 for a 7 series. I presume this is all 4 rotors, etc?

    Sure, shop around but stay away from chain stores. You don't want Chinese pie plate rotors trying to stop a locomotive. Quality German parts, please.

    MODERATOR

  • I have a 2000 740il and I do my own brakes -they are quite easy - for added help they have a pictorial view i believe in the bimmerforum sorry I dont have the link
    5 key items
    metric hex driver is needed (easy to buy)
    Use only Greman rotors (chinese rotors warp trust me
    need a flat bar and big c clamp to pull back the pucks
    replace the electronic sensor

    total cost with german rotors should be in the $800 - I enjoy it for 1100 and Germany Rotors you may want them to do it
  • Thanks for the replies! Mr S. How handy do you have to be to do it yourself? I am not that mechanically inclined, except when it comes to PC's. (everyone comes to me for help there and can tear one down and back,.. not my day job:)

    Mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    I always encourage people doing DIY to have a good repair manual, read over the procedure as it is listed, then check in here before you start if there's something in the procedures you don't understand. As long as you don't open the hydraulic system, I think you'll get by with genuine common sense, a few good tools and a repair manual.

    The public library may have this.

    I'm sure would give you some free advice! :P

    MODERATOR

  • Hi

    I have the same car, and same problem, only SOMETIMES the radio works, sometimes not, (mostly not lately).

    I bought a replacement (used) radio and swapped it out and NOTHING.

    Did you ever find out the cause?
  • I have a 1998 BMW 740i. The dealer indicates I need to replace my Catalytic converter and they want 5800.00. I have checked out a few forums and seems many people are using the Magnaflow (universal fit) model. There are also other choices and they can be confusing with converters being listed as left and right and even 'eastern'.

    Has anyone here had theirs replaced?

    Thanks in advance!

    Mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    Yes there is a left and right catalytic.

    You might find this TSB interesting:

    GROUP 18
    Exhaust Systems

    Bulletin Number
    18 01 99

    Woodcliff Lake, NJ
    September 1999
    Product Engineering

    This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. 18 01 99 dated August 1999 which should be removed and discarded from your S.I. binder.
    SUBJECT:
    Unnecessary Catalytic Converter Replacements

    MODEL:
    E36 with M44 engine from 1/96 prod.

    Z3 with M44 engine from 10/96 prod.

    E36 with M52, 852 engines from 10/95 prod.

    E46 with M52 engine from 6/98 prod.

    E39 with M52 engine from 3/96 prod.

    Z3 with M52, 852 engines from 1/96 prod.

    E38, E39, E31 with M62 engine from 1/96 prod.

    E38, E31 with M73 engine from 1/95 prod.
    Situation:
    Analysis of returned catalytic converters has proven that some converters are not defective and are replaced unnecessarily.

    The reason for unnecessary converter replacements may be due to the misfire fault code(s) in conjunction with the statement "catalyst damaging" being stored in the Engine Control Module (ECM/DME).
    Example:
    Fault Codes 63 - 70: "Cylinder misfire detected - catalyst damaging"

    If a vehicle is found with the "Check Engine" lamp on and one or more misfire faults are stored in the engine control module, the fault code description "cylinder X misfire detected - catalyst damaging" will be displayed on the diagnosis fault survey of the DIS or MoDIC.

    The qualifier "catalyst damaging" is a reminder that this type of fault (cylinder misfire) may over time cause damage to the catalytic converter if it is not repaired.

    Troubleshooting cylinder faults should be carried out using the DIS or MoDIC i.e. check secondary ignition system, etc.

    A catalytic converter should not be replaced automatically when a - catalyst damaging" fault code is stored in the Engine Control Module.

    A catalytic converter replacement is only necessary if fault codes 40, 45 or 233 (E9 hex), 234 (EA hex) are stored in the Engine Control Module which are catalytic converter efficiency or conversion faults and/or if a customer complaint of an audible rattle noise coming from the converter is verified.

    MODERATOR

  • I am considering purchasing a 97 740I with 155K. I am concerned with reliability and how much money I would need to dump into the car for repairs over time.
    I would appreciate to hear your repair experiences from 100K-250K for the 95-01 7-series generation.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    Don't do it unless the car is extremely cheap, would be my sincere advice. Any major component failure on that car, and it is literally totalled. Miles are simply too high to expect any degree of reliability assurance anymore. So in other words, pay only enough for the car so that if you have to just leave it on the side of the road in a year's time, you won't feel too heavily invested. I'd say $3,000 is more than enough for the car with that mileage, and the price guides agree, if one carefully deducts for mileage and presumes clean but not pristine condition.

    If you have the red mist in your eyes and you MUST have it (I understand, I've done this many times) then by all means have it thoroughly examined at a repair shop prior to purchase, and pay particular attention to the cooling system (cracked upper or lower radiator necks!!, worn water pump, fan clutch failure---common) exhaust systems, condition of brake rotors (not turnable, you replace them and they aren't cheap), control arm bushings front, torn subframe bushings rear, electrical glitches and malfunctions (such as strange warning lights, windows not working, AC/Heat irregularities, power seat malfunction, poorly soldered electrical relays, especially headlights), rough idle at start up (vacuum leaks) excessive tie rod wear, weak struts or shocks (they are only good for about 60K on a 7 series of this vintage) torn flex disc in driveshaft, leaky valve cover gaskets, clogged pollen filter (gives weak AC and heat flow), very dirty automatic transmission fluid leading to shifting problems.

    Other than that....... :P

    MODERATOR

  • I am the owner of a 1998 740 iL with 120K mileage.
    I no longer have the window sticker that came on the car.
    Is it possible to get a re-print of the original from BMW? If not,
    I would love to find someone with the same car who has their
    original, that would copy/scan and sell it to me.
    Mine is Cashmere Beige Metallic. :)
  • stynestyne Posts: 1
    What was the cause of your radio working part time?

    Please reply,

    Steve :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    You might contact these people:

    http://www.bmwcca.org/

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks for the tip!
  • Dear Readers,
    Yesterday I bought a 06 750li silver 36k miles, conv pkg, comfort access, luxury seating pkg, logic 7 for $41,800 out the door and in good condition previously registered as corporate fleet vehicle. Please share your opinions on this deal. Also please give me your opinion on if the car has been abused by previous owner(which I really cant tell if it has been) how will it hold up for the next 100k miles. Will 36k miles of revving engine make a difference to the car? It drives perfectly smooth right now.

    Thank You
  • when first taking off there is a hard shift from 1 to 2 sometimes.i checked tranmission fluid which was good.is there some type of electronic problem that would cause that
  • sometimes the screen works fine,some other time its just static.when it is static it seems like it want to pop in but most of the time it won't.is that something loose in the connection or maybe something else
  • Due to needed repairs I had to park my car but the date to have repairs made have has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery to put a charge in it. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008.
  • Due to needed repairs I had to park my car. The date to have repairs made has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery that is now dead and needs to be charged. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008.
  • My wife's 01 740il, 135K, has for the last 6 months been developing a (what I incorrectly called a surge) that was barely noticeable at light throttle, highway speeds. As I have watched, the tach when it drops engine speed to engage overdrive, the engine makes a growling or "snoring" sound and pops out of overdrive. Took it to a local bimmer shop (not dealer). Said the Vanus valve was bad from sludge (Thanks BMW service plan from original owner). Caused the control module mounted in conjunction with themostat housing to go bad because the vanus could not move properly confusing the module and burned it out. (not sure I buy it) Anyways, this growling, gear hunting, transmision chattering occurance happens ONLY after the car has achieved operating temp. I have taken the throttle body apart, no wear detectable. Have replaced the spark plugs and boots. HAve spent 1600 dollars on shop to replace vanus valve, control module, etc, Now problem is worse. And the check engine light comes on (bulb burned out now) Please, any help would be appreciated. Don't have money for shop again and Wife won't drive it. :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    I wonder if it's your torque converter clutch?

    MODERATOR

  • I asked the shop about the trans. They said that if it wasn't locking up, the check engine light would come on. True? It almost feels as if the timing changes, you know the way the engine sounds. Does the torque converter clutch Not lock up during warmup to assist in the warmup procedure? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    I'm not sure on your car but I know that the TC is not allowed to engage with a cold engine on cars like Lexus, yes.

    Saying that a light "should come on" is not an answer. They should be looking for a code regardless.

    Wide and sudden fluctuations in engine timing would be a pretty spooky thing--that would be throwing all kinds of codes then.

    It's kind of hard without driving the car myself. I didn't buy the Vanos idea either.

    MODERATOR

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