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BMW 7-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • Thanks for the tip!
  • Dear Readers,
    Yesterday I bought a 06 750li silver 36k miles, conv pkg, comfort access, luxury seating pkg, logic 7 for $41,800 out the door and in good condition previously registered as corporate fleet vehicle. Please share your opinions on this deal. Also please give me your opinion on if the car has been abused by previous owner(which I really cant tell if it has been) how will it hold up for the next 100k miles. Will 36k miles of revving engine make a difference to the car? It drives perfectly smooth right now.

    Thank You
  • when first taking off there is a hard shift from 1 to 2 sometimes.i checked tranmission fluid which was good.is there some type of electronic problem that would cause that
  • sometimes the screen works fine,some other time its just static.when it is static it seems like it want to pop in but most of the time it won't.is that something loose in the connection or maybe something else
  • Due to needed repairs I had to park my car but the date to have repairs made have has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery to put a charge in it. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008.
  • Due to needed repairs I had to park my car. The date to have repairs made has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery that is now dead and needs to be charged. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008.
  • My wife's 01 740il, 135K, has for the last 6 months been developing a (what I incorrectly called a surge) that was barely noticeable at light throttle, highway speeds. As I have watched, the tach when it drops engine speed to engage overdrive, the engine makes a growling or "snoring" sound and pops out of overdrive. Took it to a local bimmer shop (not dealer). Said the Vanus valve was bad from sludge (Thanks BMW service plan from original owner). Caused the control module mounted in conjunction with themostat housing to go bad because the vanus could not move properly confusing the module and burned it out. (not sure I buy it) Anyways, this growling, gear hunting, transmision chattering occurance happens ONLY after the car has achieved operating temp. I have taken the throttle body apart, no wear detectable. Have replaced the spark plugs and boots. HAve spent 1600 dollars on shop to replace vanus valve, control module, etc, Now problem is worse. And the check engine light comes on (bulb burned out now) Please, any help would be appreciated. Don't have money for shop again and Wife won't drive it. :sick:
  • I wonder if it's your torque converter clutch?
  • I asked the shop about the trans. They said that if it wasn't locking up, the check engine light would come on. True? It almost feels as if the timing changes, you know the way the engine sounds. Does the torque converter clutch Not lock up during warmup to assist in the warmup procedure? :confuse:
  • I'm not sure on your car but I know that the TC is not allowed to engage with a cold engine on cars like Lexus, yes.

    Saying that a light "should come on" is not an answer. They should be looking for a code regardless.

    Wide and sudden fluctuations in engine timing would be a pretty spooky thing--that would be throwing all kinds of codes then.

    It's kind of hard without driving the car myself. I didn't buy the Vanos idea either.
  • I know this is old but do you remember the result? Mine did it twice once was the suspenison arm or something now its back and no one can tell me why?
  • I have owned BMW's for a long time and my current 740I will be my last. At only 75,000 miles (1998 model year) the thing is falling apart re: repairs and I am not the only one with these problems.. too many to list. The latest and perhaps most costly problem is the Catalytic converters. I don't have the engine light yet, however they are making that trademark 'gravel' type sound after car is on for a few minutes. I am not going to let the dealer do it for they want 5,800.00 (they must be on crack). I will use aftermarket items that cost less than 100 each plus installation (will use a muffler shop I know of).

    I have friends who have Toyota, Nissan ect and they are much less to maintain. Do they feel as good when you close the door, no. Why can't BMW engineer cars that don't cost a ton to maintain? You see a lot of people with Honda Accords with 150K miles and they run strong and have not needed much re: repairs.
  • Hello, I just bought a 99 750iL & the seller (dealer) assures me that the on-board computer/nav system needs only to be reprogrammed. It comes on, but only the steering wheel radio controls work, can't get the CD player online... I don't care about the navigation system, I only drive locally. I DO care about the radio/CD player! My question is: Is the seller lying? Anyone? Thanks.
  • This is an extremely trouble-prone system with many historical faults so it's hard to know what's going on without proper diagnostics.

    If it's so easy to program why didn't the dealer do it? And I never heard of "re-programming" to correct a blank screen.

    You might check with the BMW dealer to see if there are software updates on CD. Maybe that'll help?

    You apparently need (according to my book) the Software CD V17.0 inserted into the Navigation computer (the CD-ROM V17.0 bears the P/N 01 59 9 789 299 Index "u"). There is a step by step procedure for installing this upgrade and also getting the radio to work.

    If your dealer hinted that all you had to do was press a few buttons---well, lotsa luck.
  • I would have thanked you sooner for the information, most appreciated, but I wanted to update you on after investigating. I took the car to a BMW specialist who ran diagnostics on the control panel, which apparently, is fried. Replacement unit costs $956, plus labor... plus labor... grrrrr. The dealer I bought it from is a small used car dealership, who buys at auction, does minor repairs/sprucing up, and resells at his shop.
    BUYER BEWARE!!!
  • Well sorry to hear that, but hopefully a lesson learned here...when a dealer or seller says "all it needs is a ....." , in my opinion the response is "well, then, that's all you need to do before I buy it".

    You might consider taking the dealer to small claims court if you think he misrepresented the car to you. The term "AS IS" does not relieve anyone of the consequences of misrepresentation per se, especially a licensed dealer. I'd try to hit the dealer up for 50-50 on this one if the purchase was fairly recent. If you bought the car 6 months ago, forget what I said. You own it now.
  • My apologies if my post comes across the 3rd time, but I just joined and there seems to be a problem posting. This neck is the plastic bend on the top on the driver side of the radiator. It's a small leak and I was wondering whether anyone has been able to stop the leak with a special glue or something.
  • That might be tough given the heat and pressure, but I have successfully mended a hole in the plastic intake of a BMW heater core with JB Weld, and lasted for a long long time. Worth a shot, that radiator can't be cheap...let's see....

    Actually for a 745 model it's only $300...that's not bad at all. My Porsche 928 was $1200 bucks. :(
  • Thanks, I had a shop try some glue but it didn't hold. He said it held and he pressure tested it and all was well, but I'm wondering if the plastic contracted when it cooled and cracked the glue. I notice it tends to leak more as it cools...

    This 740i only has 70K miles and is otherwise in great shape. I might give the JB Weld a try. The independent shop also said the radiator was "a couple hundred bucks".

    One thought for owners with power steering hose issues - while hoses may go bad, a leak might not necessarily be because the hose is bad. My BMW dealer said the hoses needed to be replaced, but I looked closer and one of the hoses was leaking from the top end (and running down the hose). Turns out the clamp was deteriorating. Thanks, BMW dealer.

    Ironically, I also had a 928. Unlike the 7-series, nothing was reasonably priced, especially the torque tube. :) I got tired of the timing belt triggering the warning light and dumped it. Not knowing if it was really worn/loose was just too stressful.
  • JB Weld is pretty awesome stuff but you have to do very good prep work. It won't work on anything that moves or flexes however.
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