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Nissan 350Z Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • Hey all, I just did some negotiating for a 350z and the money factor I was quoted was .0029 which is 6.96 percent. That seems a little too high to me, but the guys I talked to said Nissan isn't offering any support on the 350z leases right now. Does anyone know anything more about this? Has anyone leased a z through nissan recently and gotten a better or the same money factor?
  • Hey guys, I have been looking at getting a new car in the past few months and looking to buy around april time. Currently i have gone through 25+ cars and have narrowed it down to the 350Z and Acura TL i already have a quote with acura for a lease payment but i was wondering if anyone knew the residual for the 350Z. Basically i am looking for a 2 year 15K lease and am going to put a down payment equal to the depreciation of the vehicle, or in other words i will only pay finance charges. I have quoted out an acura tl with nav msrp around $36k even though i will get at invoice and with putting 9100 down with a bad int rate (9._ %) my payment still stays in the 130 - 250 a mo price range. I can afford up to 1100 a month for a car but would rather keep it in this range so i can get a speedboat and SUV as well. Any info would be greatly appreciated. :D
  • amixamamixam Posts: 17
    I'm close to closing on purchasing an '04 350Z roadster w/14K miles on it. It is not certified yet, the dealer will do it for $600. My question is, should I do the certification, or buy the preowned extended warranty? They are quoting me 1688 for the preowned to 100K miles. Thanks. :shades: Can't wait till they deliver it!!!!!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    how many miles does the certified warranty carry with it?

    never mind. i just looked it up. Certified is also 100k miles, but is 36 months. What I am unclear on is if that is 36 months from the date of sale or 36 months after the factory warranty expires? So that's a question to ask. But, either way, I would personally think the $600 is a better deal than $1700. How long is that extended warranty good for? Even if its like 7yr/100k, the car is 2 years old, so that leaves 5 years. Even if the certified program starts from the purchase date, rather than the expiration of the factory warranty, it would last for 3 years. So they are charging you $1100 for an additional 2 years. Do you think its worth it?

    And, heck, if you are going to hit 100k before 5 years from now, then its not even an additional 2 years.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Hi unclejbird. The lease payment for the car that you are interested in will depend upon a number of factors, including its MSRP, selling price, how long you lease it for, and how many miles per year you need to be able to drive it. I would be happy to give you an idea of what your lease payment for the exact 350Z that you want should be like right now if you provide me with the aforementioned information. I can tell you how much it would cost to lease with no down payment and what sort of money you would need to put down to hit the $400 a month target that you have in mind. Having said this, it's never a good idea to make capitalized cost reductions when leasing. Anyhow, let me know and I'll run some calculations for you.

    Car_man
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  • Hi glhboy. I'd be happy to give you an idea of what the lease program is like on the car that you are interested in right now. However, I cannot estimate what your lease payment will be without knowing its full MSRP. If you were to lease a 2006 Nissan 350Z Coupe base model through Nissan Motor acceptance Corp. right now for 39 months with 15,000 miles per year, its buy rate lease money factor and residual value should be .00275 and 48%, respectively. I provided you with this car's 15,000 mile per year residual value because that is the highest mileage allowance that NMAC publishes residual values for. If you need to drive more than this, you will have to purchase additional miles on a per-mile basis. It is less expensive to do so at lease signing than it is to wait until lease-end and have to pay an excess mileage penalty.

    I probably do not need to tell you this, but you would be better off waiting until you are less upside down on your current vehicle to get something new. Not only will you end up paying much more for your Z than you normally would have by rolling so much negative equity into your lease, but you probably will not be able to roll it all in. If this is the case, then you will have to pay thousands of dollars out of your own pocket at lease signing.

    Car_man
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    Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
  • Ok I made a stupid mistake signing the paper for an automatic Z 2 months ago..I test drove both but the dealers somehow convinced me of getting the AT...But I really want that 6MT...My question is how much will I be upside down on my lease if I want to trade it for a Manual or is that even possible?
  • zluverzluver Posts: 4
    I have a dealership offering $300 below invoice on all 2006 350Zs. I know there's no rebate on the 2006s right now, but it sounds like there are some dealer incentives. Is this a good deal? :)
  • fighter1fighter1 Posts: 18
    Sounds like a very good deal. I am looking for brand new 350Z. Carsdirect.com sale 350Z for invoice + 1K in Chicago, IL. Whould you mind to let me know name and location of your dealer?
  • zluverzluver Posts: 4
    I'm dealing over the internet with Bankston Nissan in Dallas.
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    Hi mc4life. I am sorry to say that it is usually fairly expensive to get out of leases well before their scheduled end dates. In order to do so, you need to purchase the vehicle that you are currently leasing from the bank that you are leasing it through. It often turns out that it costs more to do so than your vehicle is worth on the open market. Furthermore, many banks expect consumers who end their leases early to still make all, or at least the depreciation portion of their remaining lease payments. As you can see, this can get very expensive.

    You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value. Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. You may find that you are better off waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to get another new vehicle.

    Car_man
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    Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    There is a leftover '05 Touring Roadster, automatic, with side air bags, mats, cargo net, etc. that supposedly listed for $40,000 that the dealer is now offering for $34,000. Good deal? It's new, never been titled, has 55 or so miles on it, of which I put on about 15 during the test drive. Dealer says it arrived around end Sept., early Oct. last year, so people bought the 06's instead. So he wants to get rid of this puppy.

    Those of you who bought '05s, would you do it again? Did you have the notorious tire feathering problem?
  • Biancar, just left you a post on the Volvo C70 thread, then was reading here and see you basically answered my question re: your 350z purchase. There is a '05 Touring MSPR $37.4K available for $32K. That includes $1K mfg rebate. I'm considering it. Any thoughts?
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    Sorry, I forgot to put tracking on this thread and didn't see your message.

    For 32K, sure, I'd jump on that in a heartbeat. You might possibly even get a bit more off. Is it a color you like? Sounds like it's not quite equipped like mine was. Is this Manual or Automatic?
    Or maybe doesn't have the upgraded wheels? Mine originally stickered at $40,060 (base price, including AT - 37,850, wheels - $1200, plus mats, splash guards, cargo net, kickplates, trunk mat - $430 all together, plus dest. $580), I bought it at $33,500, a discount of $6,560. New '06's, equipped in the same way, are around $41,000-plus.

    I'm enjoying mine so much. Bought it a week ago exactly, and already put more than 300 miles on it! Really fun, I'm so glad I test-drove it. Hadn't planned on a roadster at all!

    It's been a few days since you posted your message, so perhaps you've already made your decision. If so, what did you do?
  • cvpacguycvpacguy Posts: 14
    Hey Car_man, can you post the current buy rate money factors and residual values for an '06 350Z coupe w/no options? Looking at both 24mos/15k and 36months/15k. Thanks!
  • sxzbztsxzbzt Posts: 15
    One of the Nissan Dealerships around where I work has a 2006 slightly used 350z Roadster in Daytona Blue Grand Touring trim.
    Ever since Nissan came out with the 350z, I have wanted a Roadster in Daytona Blue and leather interior. So this is perfect for me

    Is there anything I should look out for when I buy? The list is $34995. Carfax checked out fine. How much should I offer for this? I am thinking 30000 best offer

    Since it is a Nissan Dealer, can I trust the car to not be a lemon? It still has most of the warranty. Anything else I should watch out for? The dealer says the previous owner got pregnant.

    I am a first time Z buyer and really want to enjoy my car. Any help would be appreciated!
  • I ended up getting it. I was driving by the dealer with a friend and pulled in to show my friend the car through the window (was on the showroom floor). Well, I peered in (I thought the dealership was closed on Sundays) and there was a salesman on me in minutes. 3 hours later I was driving off with it. My experience was not nearly as smooth as yours, the back and forth was the worst I've experienced anywhere for a new car and I was highly annoyed. Sticker was $38,200 and finally settled on a price of $30,400 before tax and "admin fee" (a/k/a "padding"). Also got the 7yr/70K warranty for another $1,200. You were correct in your assumption, this one has the 17" wheels and MT (which was a must for me anyway). Everything else is the same. This is silver. I was originally searching for black, but they had a slightly used '05 black next to an '06 silver and I was drawn to the silver instead.

    The next day my friend bought an immaculate '04 Porsche Boxster with 10k on it. GORGEOUS car! Paid slightly more than I did (private seller, no tax in GA!!). Has far more cargo room than the Z, but not in the same league speed-wise. For $12K+ less than the C70, I would have taken either of these instead.

    One other note: yesterday my tire pressure monitoring system alarm went off (it's quite loud!) telling me my right rear tire pressure was low. I happen to be near the dealer and pulled in. They found nothing and inflated it. Today it went off again, same tire. I went in again and they noticed a huge staple nail in my sidewall. Not repairable so there's unexpected $$$ out the door for me. Bright side is proof that the tire monitoring system works and it possibly saved me a blowout, which are common with sidewall damage.
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    Yikes, sorry to hear about the tire!

    Anyway, sounds like you got a good deal on the car. Is this the light "chrome silver" or the darker "silverstone?" You did well with that color - to me, black is not a convertible color!

    Are you having fun with it? :shades:
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    Seems to me $30,000 or so would be a good price. Do you know what the original sticker was, or can you figure it out?

    That's funny about the original owner getting pregnant - they always say Z's are sexy cars!! :shades:

    If everything checks out for you, and the miles are really low, probably 10 - 12k less than original sticker would be a very good deal.

    Daytona Blue is a nice color, and not seen very much, so you'll have a nice unique touch there.

    All I can say is I'm loving mine! (Redline over black leather, Touring model).
  • sxzbztsxzbzt Posts: 15
    Don't know if the car was directly responsible for the pregnancy :D That was most probably a dealer story!!

    Original sticker price is around 37500 w/0 padding from what I can tell.

    30000 is something I know they won't do. Its been sitting at the dealer for 3 weeks so they would rather let it sit at the dealer than give it to me for that price.

    I checked out trade in value for an 2005 and it was 30000.
    since this one is a 2006, I would say it would be a little bit more (15% depreciation I would say).

    I am thinking of offering 32000 for it or 34608 with padding. What do you think? Is it a good price for a 2006 with 1295 miles?
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