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Nissan 350Z Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • miata007miata007 Posts: 129
    For $500 over invoice, you will have to negotiate well to get that price but it is definately a good price to offer the dealership. $500 over invoice is definately not a joke eventhough some dealers will ack like it is one. Don't let them intimidate you because of that. Do they consider it a joke if they mark up the car $5000? We are all playing a game here. Shop around to test the water. In order to get the best price, ack like you are really ready to buy eventhough you are still looking for the right price.


    Also, while negotiating, tell them you will have to testdrive the S2000 before you can make your final decision. Trust me, they will do whatever they can for the most part to keep you from checking out the Honda. And last, don't spend more than 30 minutes negotiating for they will wear you out the longer you stay until you give in.


    Good luck! Hope you can get the best deal at the end of the month/year.


  • Hey thanks for the reply...yah blows my mind these dealerships mark up invoice so much...yah I thought 500 was a good price....I might even go 200 more...and I wont sit there for more than 20 minutes!!!! I did that on the first car I bought...took forever....anyways im going to call a few dealerships and talk to the sales manager...see what they can get.
  • Hey guys,


    I'm looking at 04 and 05 350z's. Does anyone know what kind of incentives dealers will offer on 04 models after the new year. Currently, a local dealership has 15 04's on the lot. Can anyone please provide information on how the dealers manage situations like this? It's hard to imagine anyone buying an 04 for invoice or greater with 05's on the lot (right?).


    Thanks in advance for your help!
  • OK tell me if I got a good deal. I bought a 2005 Touring 5 spd auto with aero pack, mats etc. Sticker was 34095.00 I traded in a 97 Mitsubishi Diamante with 93,000. Kelly Blue book listed my trade as worth 2800.00. I told the salesman that I didn't care how they worked it Ie. trade-in/sales price below sticker etc. but I would only pay this price per month. In the end I agreed to go over my target monthly payment by about 60 bucks. But they gave me nearly 9000.00 for my trade in. So I'm paying 5.35 interest and 419 month. Did I steal it?


  • nyadjnyadj Posts: 13
    You failed to mention all of the particulars of your deal, what price did YOU pay for the car, the sticker price you mentioned is just the MSRP. You make no mention of how many months your loan is or if you had to put down any cash. Two things jump out at me immediately, which unfortunately makes me think you got bent over a barrel bad, with no vaseline noless to ease the pain. 1.) I don't care what says your trade is worth, an old car like that is immediate wholesale material for any dealer. The dealer in no way shape or form paid you $9000 for that car. Your sales sheet may show a $9000 credit however I'm pretty certain the price of the car you think you negotiated for was raised at least $8000 by the time you signed the paperwork. That was done to cover the cost of printing a $9000 trade figure into your bill of sale. 2.) I hope you didn't read any of these boards before you shopped, because if you did it looks as though you didn't retain any important info about how to negotiate. NEVER NEVER NEVER tell a salesperson where you want your payments to be. They instantly know right away that they can manipulate their figures (e.g. your trade amount)to their advantage anyway they want. You should always negotiate on price only and all of the mathematical computations will be automatically correct once you determine your credits, downpayment, taxes and finance amount and interest rates. Can you tell us those figures of your deal? Then you could at least have an answer from "us know it alls", ha ha.
  • Re: my deal....72 months...5.35%...1500 down....8860 for my trade and sales price of 34095 for the car. I accepted the sales price as is because even I know the trade-in wasn't worth anything over 4500.


  • Just got a 05 350Z Touring w/ Nav and curtain airbags at invoice. Corona Nissan (in LA area) was very professional and honest. I also purchased 7yr/100K Nissan Extended Gold warranty for $1,300. I chose to buy this warranty on my own, no pressure from the dealership.
  • $26710 + tax,tags = $27600 out the door with 4% APR and $5k down....steal?
  • jgoosejgoose Posts: 2
    Just purchased an '04 350Z Touring Roadster. Silverstone w/ventilated burnt orange seats, 18" wheels, every option including navigation. MSRP was $41,560. Dealer was asking 5 grand over sticker (46k)! After much haggling, got the car for invoice $38,234 at a low 2.0% finance rate thru Nissan. I did my homework and didn't let them take advantage of me...I think.


    They may have got me on the Nissan extended warranty. They "lowered" the cost of the 6yr/100k mi Gold preferred warranty to $1,700. Did I get robbed? Did anybody else go for the extended warranty? If so, how much?
  • vic5vic5 Posts: 2


    Is the above price the driveout price?



  • vic5vic5 Posts: 2
    I'm planning to purchase a 2005 2dr Touring Roadster 350Z in the Houston area.


    What is the total driveout price I should be looking at including all the options except the navigation system?


    What is the best time to buy during the month?How do I find out about any factory to customer/dealer rebates?



  • jgoosejgoose Posts: 2
    My '04 Roadster: $38,234 + tax, title, registration and inspection fees (about $3,700 more). Plus the extended warranty of $1,700.


    This purchase was in Long Island, NY. Got a good deal because I was an informed shopper, bought during their slow season (the week of Christmas), and Nissan was trying to unload the '04s to make room for the '05s.


    You will no doubt pay more for an '05. You can find the invoice and retail prices on or kelly blue book. They also list rebates. As for the best deal, shop around. I found alot of useful information at, including a downloadable buyer's offer spreadsheet. I highly recommend you visit their site.


    Unfortunately, I skipped their chapter on purchasing warranties. Did anyone else purchase an extended warranty out there? What did it cost?
  • miata007miata007 Posts: 129

    I didn't think buying an 04 Z at invoice is any great deal at all. About your warranty that you've purchased, I believe it is refundable maybe within 1 to 2 weeks of the day of purchase. You might want to check on that and get a refund on there.


    Nothing in your car will go wrong and if it does, 99.9999999999% of time it will happen during the standard warranty period. And for most people, they don't keep their car for more than 4 years anyway.


  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    jgoose bought a new car not a vacuum. Usually a car will be the most troublefree during the warranty period (3yr / 36K miles). As cars accumulate miles and get more wear and tear, they tend to have more issues and problems. Therefore, an extended warranty can be a smart purchase. My reference to a vacuum was meant to indicate that if a vacuum or computer or stereo or DVD player, etc, etc...... is going to have a problem, it will most likely surface within the first couple of monthes of ownership. I really don't think that same logic can be applied to an automobile. Is it often you hear that cars get more reliable as they age?? If that was the case, most would not buy new cars.


    When we bought my wife's Tahoe we purchased an extended warranty (which we usually don't do....but it was a Chevrolet). Within 2K miles after the factory warranty ran out we had to replace the fuel pump. Within 5K miles, the CD player went bad. So, in our case at least, the extended warranty saved us about $700.00.
  • I am interested in purchasing 350z performance or track in Portland or Seattle area. Please let me know how much over invoice you've purchased.
  • I thinkimg going to go the route of buying a 04 Z since no dealership around here has any 2k5 base models. I doubt they will have any 2k4 base models either...I was told no one buys those from a dealer. So how much should I ask for a 04 model be it base or enthus?? Inovice? Under inovice? What would be a fair deal??
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    Welcome, pscholes18! (as in Paul Scholes, he scores goals?)


    At this point, any offer you make for a 2004 should be under invoice. The exact amount you should offer depends, of course, on which model you end up negotiating for. Back in October, one of our members reported getting an 04 for invoice:

    browncoffey, "Nissan 350Z: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #52, 26 Oct 2004 9:16 am

    So, if the dealership you're dealing with has 2005s on the lot, you can start talking about 04s a few hundred under invoice. Visit a few lots and you'll find out pretty quickly whether anyone is willing to negotiate with you at a below invoice starting offer. Search dealer inventory first and select the dealerships that show 04s AND 05s on the lot.



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  • miata007miata007 Posts: 129

    You are certainly free to express your opinion just like I did regarding to warranties. I want to tell you there were many times people spend more time selling me warranties rather than selling the cars. What's the reason behind? Because that's a huge profit for their company. When I was purchasing a Honda Accord few years back, the finance manager ask me why I don't want to buy extended warranty. I told him I have faith in Honda and really don't have the extra money to spend on warranty(~$1000). He was trying to explain the deal just like you did where you will never know when things would break and car repairs are very costly these day and on and on.... Guess what he did? He offer to sell the warranty to me at 50% discount and I still refused it. After 4 years driving the car, nothing have went wrong other than a few recalls and a rattle in the dash. Of course, that's only one of my experience.


    On your Tahoe, can you tell me how much you pay for your warranty that save you $700 now. When are you planning on selling your car. Are you better off with the warrantly?


    In my life time, almost all of my cars were trouble free for the first 100,000 mi. I did have an Altima 94 with a bad transmission but the problem was there since new so was replaced under factory warranty. Am I lucky or because I only buy from Honda, Toyota, and Nissan? Or because I did my hw?


    As an electronic engineer for many years, I disagree with you regarding to automobiles are different from a stereo, dvd, vacuum, etc.... in terms of reliability. In many aspect they are similiar or the same. Factors such as reliability history, duration of ownerships, and amount of customer abuse on the products are a few things we need to consider in buying a product or warranty.


  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Thanks for the reply...IMHO - It all comes down to personal preference. On the Tahoe, we chose to buy an extended warranty because it was a Chevy. We didn't buy the ext warranty on my wife's Accord, because it was a "Honda". Unfortunately, that didn't work out for us.


    But, I do agree that allot of the decision comes down to research and manufacturer. As to your question: "Are you better off with the warrantly?" Of course, I wouldn't have bought the ext warranty if I didn't think it was beneficial. If someone chooses not to purchase the warranty, then that is the risk they take. If you buy a Nissan, Honda or Toyota...the risk decreases.


    Just as an aside: I have only purchased 1 ext warranty in my life and I have owned almost 10 cars.


    Another example of an extended warranty paying for itself: My Mom drives (not for much longer though) a '98 MB E320. My Father bought an extended warranty for almost $3200 (I know its expensive) on her car. To date, the warranty has paid for almost $10,000 worth of repairs. As you would probably say, if research was done prior to them buying the MB then maybe the purchase would not have happened. But, at the time, MB had a pretty good reliability record.
  • miata007miata007 Posts: 129

    I totally respect your decision because you have done your research before you made you decision. As for people like myself, we have to take a risk just like people not buying flood insurance and earthquake insurance for their homes. The ultimate question one have to ask himself/herself is when bad things happen, can you afford the consequences. If my car's engine blows up, I just buy another car. But if flood happens or a major earthquake hits, I am toast. Therefore I must buy home insurance to cover natural disaster no one can predicts.


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