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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

Anyone else having problems with electric window switches? I have replaced 2 on the driver's window already, with only 7000 miles.
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  • ONE YEAR AGO----1/03--- THE A/C WOULD NOT SHUT OFF, EVEN WITH THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. OF COURSE IT RAN OUT THE BATTERY. WHEN TOWED TO BUICK DEALER IN PEMBROKE PINES, FL. I ASKED TO HAVE THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FULLY CHECKED TO FIX THE PROBLEM, SO IT WOULD NOT HAPPEN AGAIN. SERVICE MGR. SWORE IT WAS CHECKED AND COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG. JUST RECHARGED BATTERY. NOW 1 YEAR LATER SAME PROBLEM AND I NEED A NEW BATTERY.
    IF I GET ONE, I KNOW THIS A/C PROBLEM WILL HAPPEN AGAIN. DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS HAPPENING OR DOES BUICK HAVE A RECALL? OR SOLUTION? THANKS
    R. KLINGSBERG------IROK1953@AOL.COM---BUICK CENTURY 2000.
  • lelandllelandl Posts: 11
    2000 century coustom
    46000 mi
    keyless entry
    cruise
    cassettee
    ABS
    power W/L and driver seat
    1 owner
    some crack on windshield
    from a used car dealer
    he is firm at $6100
    KBB trade is $4900 Private party $6900
    Edmunds Trade in $5600 private party $6800

    What's you guys opinion about this?
    Is that a reasonale price?
    Which particular part should pay special attention when mechanical check?
    thanks much!
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    I wouldn't pay that much for a 2000 model. 2003 models are selling for under $10,000 in the Dallas area. 2002 models I have seen for $6995 advertised, with 50-60K miles on tham. With those miles and that year, IMO it's worth about $4000-$4500. Remember the windshield will cost $200-$400 to fix (used or new part is the price difference)
  • nancy2nancy2 Posts: 1
    Bought new and are having a problem with "jerking" when proceeding from a stop. The dealership says they have never had a problem like this come into their shop. It does it every once in awhile so when taken out for test drives it behaves like normal. Has anyone ever had this occur and if so what was the solution?
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Posts: 300
    What state do you live in? Here in Colorado, it is against the law for a dealer to sell an automobile with a cracked windshield because it poses a safety hazard.

    Jeremy
  • jpzjpz Posts: 1
    Any other 2003 Buick Century owners having problems with an inaccurate odometer? Mine is running high.
  • I have a '98 Buick Century and occasionally the ABS warning light is on when the car is started. It might happen one time in ten. It never comes on except when the car is started and when it does come on, it does not go out while driving or flicker on & off. There is no noticeable effect on braking.

    I've had previous cars where the engine service light occasionally came on and a mechanic could find no reason for it. Anybody else had an intermittent ABS warning light problem?

    Thanks.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Have a mechanic check for stored trouble codes in the ABS controller. Many intermittent ABS faults are wheel speed sensor related.
  • rkw2rkw2 Posts: 66
    I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix. It seemed as though I was putting more mileage on this car than on my other cars. Last week I checked the trip odometer against mileage markers on the Parkway. Sure enough my odometer was showing 2.1 miles at the 2 mileage markers (a 5% difference). Does anyone know how to get it corrected. There are federal regulations against messing around with odometers. My car is leased and this could put me over my mileage limit and at $.15 per mile this could cost me at the end of my lease.
  • I parked, took my keys out and my car kept beeping as if my keys were not extracted! I had to disconnect my battery to get my lights to go off! Not only my head lights were on after I took out keys but also my taillights When I pushed lock botton my lights would not go off ? Any clue????
  • code is coming up random misfire? changed fuel filter! still misfiring any suggestions? 99 century,3.1
  • dekesterdekester Posts: 322
    My father has a 97 Century Custom and the headlights are turning milky on the top half. I tried to polish the outside with some plastic polish and it smoothed out the roughness, but it looks like the main problem is inside.

     

    Any solutions? I'm contemplating going to a salvage yard to see if I can pick up a set that are not affected.

     

    Thanks

    Deke
  • ralzralz Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 buick custom century. I am having problems with the right side blinker light. The left side works like it is suppose to, however, the right side clicks really fast(not normal speed) and does not show up in the light indicator of the instrument panel. Outside front right side lights do not blink at all. Only the back right side is blinking but very fast. I have tried replacing the light bulbs for the front and back lights and replaced the fuse, but none of this seems to work. I would greatly appreciate any advise in fixing this problem. thanks, ralz
  • I have a 2000 Buick Century that has an electrical problem that is causing the low/high beam light not to work. I have taken the headlight out of this car and tested them on my 2002 Buick Century. The light worked good on my 2002 Buick. I also took the headlight switch out of my 2000 Buick and put it in my 2002 Buick and it worked correctly. I have checked the 20 amp fuse and the two 15 amp fuses and they were ok. If I hold the high beam switch on the high beam lights will come on. The parking light and daytime light work correctly. Does any body know where the Running control module is for this vehicle??? Also where is the Daytime running lamps ambient light senor?? Any suggestions to trouble shoot this problem would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Joel
  • cjb2486cjb2486 Posts: 26
    My father has a '98 Century with about 40k miles. A few months ago, it mysteriously began not starting. Every few weeks, when you turn the key, nothing happens -- no cranking, nothing. However, an hour later it starts with no problems. Of course the mechanics can't find any trouble codes or anything else. The battery is new.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    Thank you.
  • jkennyjkenny Posts: 1
    Hey Joel, I have the same exact problem on our 2000 Buick Century. I took it to the dealer and they charged us $150 to tell us that it is probably the light switch and it would cost $711 to replace it. I told the service manager he was out of his mind. I took the headlamp assemblies apart and swapped the high beams to the outside position. We now leave the high beam switch on for the time being, although the light is now diffused inside the assemblies. I just bought a new switch for $70 and I'd like to know how difficult it was to change it out. Thanks, John
  • jwinkjwink Posts: 2
    Mine had that problem, best I can figure, it was the injectors sticking shut. I was a die hard fan of cheap speedway gas, never gave me a problem till this car. Now if I use it, every other tank I get an injector that sticks shut and engine runs like crap. Switched to Shell, no problems since.
  • jwinkjwink Posts: 2
    Dealerships will tell you it's probably the switch arm ($400). Mine started doing that on the right, and then progressed to the right. After switch arm $400, main electronics $500, new bulbs $20 and many hours of labor, they got it fixed. Luckily it was under warranty so out of pocket was only $50 total
  • wmay80wmay80 Posts: 2
    on my 03 buick century everything on my instrument panel goes dead and my check engine light comes on eventually they come back and engine light goes off
    ive checked all my fuses but nothings bad
  • Hi, Did you ever find out the problem with your Buick, Century? I am having a similar problem. When I accelerate and the car is trying to switch gears, it jerks. The only way to get this to stop is to turn the car off, remove the key (disengage the electric part) I believe it is an electrical problem, because the car will reset itself after the key has been removed, and one of the doors has been opened. I hope I have explained this. Thank-you
  • vanguard1vanguard1 Posts: 2
    Well, I don't own a Buick, but all my Fords, and my Jeep had this problem. The problem was lowered resistance in the circuit allowing more current to reach that lamp, making it flash faster. The left and right circuits are parallel, and independent of each other, which is why the other side works fine and some other bulbs work in the same circuit. It's not the fuse, no lights would work if it were. If the car was ever hit, look for an open in the circuit where it was hit, using a test light, or an ohmeter. I think you are on the right track, you may have a blown bulb in the right side but from what you said, it sounds like its in the dash. Buy yourself a Chiltons or Haynes manual and check the circuit. Manuals are cheaper than mechanics. Good Luck. :shades:
  • vanguard1vanguard1 Posts: 2
    Iignition switch in the column? Ask your dad if the switch feels a bit loose. This happens with a lot of GM cars. I doubt it would trigger a code either. Those things go when the keychain is extra heavy. My dad had a lot of keys. :)
  • It sounds like you have problems with the Pressure control solenoid valve (PCS Valve). My Century 2000 had the same problem, GM has a TSB on this, it affects the 4T65E Transmission. I had mine fixed, $615.00, but this car still has a lot of problems. Anyhow, I've got a serious problem of my own --

    Last September, just after the car had the tranny work, it broke down. When it happened, I was turning, maybe going 10 mph. The car began grinding and shuddering -- this was coming from the engine area. It was loud. If you've ever heard a cell phone or electric shaver/trimmer in vibrate mode that was placed on a counter or table top -- that was the sound my car made -- only it was about twenty times as loud. Anyhow, the car began jerking badly. I hit the brake pedal but it kept pulling. The steering wheel felt like it was stuck in wet cement and I had to use both hands to turn it. The car kept puuling, then finally stopped and stalled. The car would restart, but when put into gear, stalled. The radio and headlights worked fine. Had it towed to the dealer. They could not find anything wrong; apparently the car started for them the next day. Whatever.

    Fastforward to about two weeks ago. The grinding noise returned. The steering wheel was fine this time, but the car, once more, did not want to stop. I was going around 20-25 mph. The car stopped this time but did not stall. The noise grew louder. The light turned green. I took my foot off the brake and the car accelerated to 20 mph -- without my foot on the accelerator. I was on a flat road. Several seconds later the grinding stopped, and the car drove again. It did not return until This past Thursday, same thing.

    Does anyone have any idea what this could be? The shop doesn't know, and neither does anyone else. Also, has anyone else had as many problems with their Century? This car only has 79,000 miles on it. Since September it has accumulated $2,500 in repairs, and it still has this problem.
  • caseyleahcaseyleah Posts: 1
    Hey,
    I have a 1999 Buick Century with 98k miles on it and about 6 months ago the low coolant light came on so we inspected it and it looked like there was mud or clay inside the radiator cap. A couple people suggested that the dexcool coolant probably just mixed with some regular green coolant and that I should just get it flushed. I did get it flushed but never did check it afterwards and I noticed that it was running just a tiny bit hotter than it was before. Two days ago the light came on again and we checked the radiator cap again and same problem. Now it runs way too hot while it is idling but cools down to normal while driving. Think I got screwed the first time I had it flushed? Or is there a problem with the engine, perhaps, where the oil is getting mixed with the coolant to cause the brown muck? The engine and tranny are leaking some. Anyone else had any similar problems?
  • It sounds like Stop Leak to me. This substance has been used for years to stop leaks, and it works -- for a while. However, after this stuff has solidified and stopped the leak, the chemical make-up of it begins to change. It eventually turns to putty, breaks up, and floats around your entire cooling system. This putty-like material then clogs other areas -- areas never intended to be clogged. This can cause big problems! I bought my car used and it had this "stop leak" stuff in it. The problem is, when this stuff is first put in, it's literally undetectable. After a while, though, I noticed my reservoir tank and radiator cap had muddy stuff on it. This was the stop leak fluid after it had turned to putty. It clogged my intake plenum gasket. Cost to fix was over $1,000 as the engine had to be completely taken apart. Thank goodness I have that extended warranty!

    If stop leak is the culprit, don't put anymore in, as it could get into other parts of the car outside the cooling system, i.e. engine. From your description that sounds like the culprit. However even when my car was losing coolant rapidly and had this leak, it did not run extra hot, so that part of the story has me scratching my head. Good luck with your car.
  • rhenstirrhenstir Posts: 1
    you are not alone my 2000 century does the same with a high pieced whining that sound like it is comming from the trans cannot pinpoint what is yet will let you know
  • bluesky5bluesky5 Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem. just bought a Century 2000 a couple days ago
    and have the same problem. Sometimes I stop the car in traffic and
    the engine is still racing like the trottle stuck open or it still runs on
    high gear. Returning the gear to the parking position won't solve the
    problem. What made it even worse is that the car will abruptly accelerate
    when the gear switches from parking to other gears when this happens.
    I have this problem two times already among four days I own this vehicle.
    Anyone has any ideal what causes this and how much it may be to fix this?

    The guy selling me the car is a fairly reasonable guy and we have some
    nice talk with him and his wife ... but just in case, I am in MA. Is there
    a lemon law covering severe mechinical problems. I have this car less
    than 6 days.

    Thanks
  • jbankstonjbankston Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Buick Century. It has had a vibration problem between the speeds of 45 to 55 ever since I bought it. The Buick Dealership said it was the tires. I bought four new tires and have had them rotated and balanced twice and still have the vibration. The people at Goodyear (where I got the tires) assured me it was not the tires when I brought the car back again to have the tires looked at because I was still having vibration. They said that there had to be something wrong with the car. I took it back to the Dealership and told them I had put on new tires and had had them balanced and rotated but my car was still having a vibration problem. When I called to check on my car they told me the tires needed to be rotated and balanced (for $180) :mad: . I told them I had just had that done (like two days prior) and that this was the second time I had brought in for the same problem. The Dealeship got amnesia and said it was the first time he had looked at my car and wanted me to bring it back for further investigation. That is what he was suppose to do the first time, not just make an assumption as to what was wrong. Oh well.

    Has anybody out there experienced some of the same poblems and is there a cure?? :sick:
  • On three occasions now, my 2002 Buick Century would not start after I filled the gas tank. The engine would crank but would not start (almost like a vacuum lock). After waiting 10-15 minutes, the car starts and runs normally. The only thing the dealer could suggest was that there was a theft-deterrent device that would not allow the car to be started for 10-15 minutes. They made a new ignition key and reset the computer to solve the problem, but (of course) the same thing happened again yesterday when I filled the tank. Any suggestions?
  • stevelordstevelord Posts: 1
    This can be really serious. My wife had the throttle jam at 70 mph ofn the freeway, slammed on the brakes, exited the freeway at high speed, ran a stop sign and finally stopped it by throwing it is park and stalling the engine. This saved her and my kids but trashed the brakes and required over $800 in brake work. The brakes were so over heated that the hub caps melted. I talked to Buick customer assistance and they told me it was a used car so tough luck.
    I took it to the dealer and he says that the problem is the floor mat. It can get pulled down into the hole where the accelerator cable goes through the floor and jam it. The simple solution is remove the floor mat. I f you really want to keep the mat then you need to secure it by wiring it to the seat or something. You may want to train possible drivers about this and tell them yopu can put the car in neutral if this happens. My wife was afraid to do this because the though the power steering would fail and she would not be able to steer. I feel we need to notify NHTSA about this so would like to get your name and email so I can show this problem is more widespread than ust out occurrence.
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