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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

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  • My 2000 century low coolent light came on about a year ago, I checked the radiator and it was full, yes. . muddy looking stuff on the cap also. I immediately thought of stop leak too..then thought someone had mixed the green with the new coolent...so I flushed the coolent system myself..I've done mechanical work for over 30 years on my own vehicles...everything from changing plugs to rebuilding engines and transmissions. ..so I know I flushed it properly..which included bleeding the air from the system after refilling with coolent. Anyway.. after that my engine began runnning a little hotter than normal. I kept an eye on it and noticed it never went above 1/2 way on the gauge. But, this summer, the transmission began shifting rough..but only when the gauge reached 1/2.. and when it cooled down.. it would quit shifting rough. I found that when I turn the a/c on..it would lower the coolent temp to normal agin. So, I can't figgure out what's causing the engine to heat up some and the transmission to shift rough when it does. Some brown stuff showed up again in the radiator again, but it only accumliated on the cap. I'm puzzled.. is the transmission getting hot making the coolent run hot or is the engine heating up causing the coolent to get hot??? Any Reply will be appreciated!
  • you're at step 1 of what I found in my 2000 century, I found the drain way up on the engine side of the right side of the radiator..looking from front of caR. I drained the coolent, flushed the system, and refilled the system. Only...to see the grayish brown sludge to appear again. Now my problem is with the heat gauge going slightly above the norm, and my transmission shifting hard into gears when it does go up.
  • on my 2000 century, it's located on the battery side of the radiator about 1/3 the way down the radiator
  • Does anyone have a solution to this. I'm having a similar sounding problem in my 94 Buick Century (3.1 engine).

    TNilsen
  • jdh93jdh93 Posts: 7
    I have a 93 Century. About 3 weeks ago the already rusted out muffler and tail pipe fell off. It ran fine for another 2 weeks. About a week ago, it was completley dead. The starter was rebuilt and it ran fine for about 2 days. Then it began to often die right after it tarted. After various tries restarting it, it usually starts, but it releases a plume of smoke and then runs and idles very sluggishly. Sometimes it dies while I am driving. There is a strong smell of gas. This only happens about half the time. It often starts on the first crank and runs and idles smoothly. I have replaced all filters and treated the fuel system and the injectors. # mechanics have looked at it, but the problem never arose when they checked it. They hooked it up to the diagnostic computer, but it didn´t indicate a problem. I live in an area where there are no Buick dealers and where I don´t have a reliable mechanic.(I am new to the area.) Can anyone make ny suggestions as to what should be checked, what the problem sounds like or give me any advice in general??? The car has only 70,000 miles on it. ( My grandmother bought it new) and it has been reliable for me up until now. Please help me if you can. Thanks.
  • jdh93jdh93 Posts: 7
    Did you ever find a solution to your fuel system problem????
  • Hi there, I have a 99 Century and am having troubles with the head gasket and a leak on the water pump. I have been told that to repair both it will cost about $2500. I love my car and want to know if putting the $2500 work into it is worth it. In order to resell my vehicle I need to put the work into it, but what is the resale on a 8.75 year old century? The low tire light stays on continually even though the air in the tires is at the right press. Any ideas on what the issue is? I'm kinda frustrated as I don't know anything about cars and my husband knows even less. If someone can give me some info that would be great! thanks :confuse: :cry: :mad:
  • So on friday i was driving and my car just shut off. Its a 90 buick century with the v6 3.3. I have no spark. I installed a new ignition control module, had the coils checked and installed a new ecm. Everything checked out and i still have no spark. does anybody have any ideas?
  • my headlight is broken and I can't take it out of the casing to change it. There are heavy duty bars atop blocking. Do detach the lamp shell that houses the light, or do I just somehow pull the light/lamp out from behind? Either way, the headlamp is mounted down and I can't get to the light. Or, if I am to pull the csing apart from the side. Huh?
    I'm confused! It's hard to do with little tools and experience? My neighbors just look out the window and watch. I wonder what they thought when I changed my battery.
    Saleemah
  • what year? my light in my 94 buick century has two metal springs that attach to the inside, you unhook them and the whole light comes out, bulb and all
  • bad wires in your drivers door, take the rubber housing off of the wiring inbetween the door and the car, there should be some broken wires in there, I just wired them back together(with the car off and the battery unhooked) and applied electical tape, it works fine now
  • I have the same vehicle and have been told that I have a coolant leak that will cost 2,000 dollars to repair. I have had other coolant leaks but was told this one was expensive because they have to take the whole engine out to get to it. I think I had the water pump replaced. Within the next two years I've had a couple different mechanics tell me about this leak and they said I should be okay if I just keep filling my coolant up if it is low but to eventually get it fixed. My mechanic that I usually go to has also pointed it out and said I should eventually take care of it. I got my oil changed a couple days ago and he said it's the head gasket that needs to be replaced and apparently that is common in my car. The coolant was starting to leak into the oil so he said I needed to get it done soon. He gave me a price of 800. (A lot lower than the 2,000 someone had originally told me). Then I called around and someone offered to do it for 725, so I called my usual guy back and he said he'd do it for that. So 725 versus 2,000 is a big difference, especially for someone who has put off the repair for so long because I was just out of college and am still struggling for money. So I don't know if you want to call around to other people for your repairs. I hate my car but I love it. I've put in a good chunk of money repairing it already and will put in more now but it still seems like a pretty decent car. I was hoping to sell it in the next couple years too. Also, make sure they put in some new and improved head gasket, I was told that GM produced a newer better version and you shouldn't have that problem again. Hope this helps and if anyone else has some advice for me let me know. I have a big paint scrape on the side of my car and was wondering if I can remove it on my own and how to do that?
  • Thanks for your reply. I actually ended up just taking it to Midas. I paid 2200 for it but at least it is under warranty for the remainder that I have the car. I love my car too. I thought about just filling the oil and the coolant but with my baby in the car and winter here Fixing it was the best idea. It was the head gasket and they did replace it...thank goodness!
  • otleyotley Posts: 1
    The tire light can be reset easily. If you open the fuse panel by the front passenger door, there is a red button that you press and hold to reset the tire light.
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Hi there:
    Was wondering if someone can help me out here. This morning I started my car (buick Century 1994) and when I switched into gear I accidently went to the 3 mark. When I tried to go back to D the needle did not wanted the move on the display. The car switched into gear because I can hear it, but the needle is stuck at the 3. What can I do to let it go back to P and then move when I switch the gear.
    Any help appreciated.
    Thanks :confuse:
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Anyone, please????????
  • so I have a '99 century and when I start the car everything is fine but when I turn on the headlights, all of the warning dash lights come on and the headlights don't... help me! thanks
  • Had the same trouble with my Chevy Lumina. It is likely to be your Crankshaft position sensor. There is a trick to removing it. Let me know if you need help.
    Art.
  • Hello, can anyone tell me where the ecm is located? I have power to the engine and a/c relays when thy are removed, but lose it when they are plugged in. I checked the relays with my meter and battery and they seem fine. I suspect there is something on the ecm allowing power but no current. Does this sound like the ecm? I'd like to change it but need to know where it is. Thanks!
  • Just checked my factory service manual and it says that the ECM is located under the instrument panel on passender side. Probably behind glove box. Never had to find mine so I dont know first hand. Let me know how it goes.
    Art.
  • I have an 86 century limited...engine turns over but wont start..as per a diagnostic test I had the cam sensor and the crank sensor both replaced.. i took it from the mechanics to my house and then from my house to work..after work it wouldnt start. Any ideas as to what this could be.....PLZZZZZ help :sick:
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    :( Can someone help me out here please. I am kinda worried. Would like to know what is going on.
    thanks and Happy Holidays!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :confuse:
  • That's where it is alright. I haven't a clue how I'd get it out as there is almost no roo,. It looks like the glove box has to come out.
    In any case, I found out it is the intake gasket causing the problem, so I'm changing that this weekend. Thanks for the response!
    Dave
  • My 99 century is overheating and I have changed the water pump and thermostat and bled the system and it is not leaking water (visibly) but it still overheats. I took it to a radiator shop and spent $158 on sensors and testing fan circuits and all is ok, but it is still overheating. Can anyone help me before "I" overheat?!
  • kframekframe Posts: 5
    To berkiespop:
    Yes I have had a similar problem on a Lumina which caused a leaking head gasket! When replaced I found blocked water jackets around some cylinders. What was it blocked with you might ask? That famous Leak stopper crap that they sell. I had used this stuff to stop a leak, and it stopped it all right, along with blocking essential water passages! If you used this stuff I would think that you have the same problem.
    Try to flush out the system using Prestone radiator flush. Several times if needed. Also Back flushing is the best way to do this. I cant believe that a radiator shop didnt do this for you. I hope that is your problem, and that you get it cleaned out alright.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,870
    Any water in the engine oil?

    MODERATOR

  • I have used that stop leak and that is probably my problem. Thanks a million!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,870
    Okay, is this a fast overheat (within 10-15 minutes) or a gradual overheat?

    Will it overheat in traffic but be okay on the freeway, or will it overheat regardless of how/where you drive it?

    Has anyone checked for combustion gases in the coolant?

    MODERATOR

  • Is ther any help on replacing the intake manifold gaskets in a 99 buick century ? How do you remove the rear valve cover screws?
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