Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

1111214161729

Comments

  • pops86pops86 Posts: 4
    Can anyone help with a problem concerning my outside electric mirrors. They work intermitantly, so it is aggravating trying to set them after my wife drives the car. The fuse is o.k.,I do not want to tear into the door panels without an idea of what I am looking for. Any help is appreciated.
  • pops86pops86 Posts: 4
    Your owners manual probably answers your question, but for my '01 it says under no circumstances go longer than 12 months or 16,000 miles, if I recall correctly. I say let the computer do its job.
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    I DON'T GET ON HERE MUCH ANYMORE BECAUSE SOME OF THE QUESTIONS ARE ABOUT BUICKS THAT ARE 10 TO 15 YEARS OLD AND SOME ELECTRICAL PARTS AND WINDOW PARTS JUST WEAR OUT WITH USE. THE ANSWER TO THE OIL CHANGE QUESTION IS HOW LONG DO YOU WANT TO DRIVE YOUR CAR WITHOUT A MAJOR ENGINE PROBLEM ? IF YU LEAVE OIL...ANY OIL IN YOUR CAR FOR 16,000 MILES IT WILL HAVE PARTICALS OF CARBON FROM COMBUSTION THAT ACT LIKE LIQUID SANDPAPER GRINDING THE PARTS AND CAUSING MAJOR WEAR. IF YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL AND FILTER AT 3000 MILES YOU WILL MINIMUM WEAR EVEN IF YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR FOR 20 YEARS. IF YOU KEEP THE OIL CLEAN AND NEVER OVERHEAT THE ENGINE IT WILL LAST A VERY LONG TIME.....MY 2 CENTS WORTH RED BIRD
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    THE OIL CHANGE LIGHT IS SET TO COME ON AT 7500 MILES AND THAT IS IMOHO 4500 MILES TOO LATE. KEEP THE OIL CLEAN AND YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    GET A CAN OF CANNED AIR THAT YOU USE FOR COMPUTES AND BLOW THE SWITCHES OUT. THEY COULD HAVE DUST AND GRIME ON THE CONTACTS. ALSO IF YOU HAVE THE WINDOWS CRACKED IN A LIGHT RAIN WHILE SITTING STILL WATER WILL DRIP INTO THE WINDOW AND MIRROR CONTROLE BUTTONS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE.
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    IF YOU TURNED THE WIPERS ON WHEN THEY WERE FROZEN TO THE WINDSHIELD YOU MORE THAN LIKELY BROKE THE TRANSMISSION GEARS EING AS HOW THEY ARE PLASTIC. YOU MAY HAVE CRACKED OR BROKE THE PIVOT ARM THAT WORKS THE WIPERS. LOOK UNDER THE HOOD IN THE CENTER OF THE CAR WHERE THE PASSENGER WIPER IS CONNECTED TO THE CARA FOR CRACKS OR DAMAGE. IF YOU NEED PARTS ITS DEALER OR WRECKING YARD OLNY TO GET PARTS.
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    Last fall I had a tranny fluid change in my 98 Century and was told the swaybar is broken and needs to be replaced in 6 months. Otherwise it might damage the boots. Is that true (the boots I mean)? As I use the car for about 4000 miles a year only I felt safe...
    I was quoted "Front Swaybar w// links $352". Another thing to be done is "right rear trailing arm with alignment $ 236". those are 2006 prices and it might be more now. As my car has a trade in value of $280 (Edmunds) to $ 1100 (KBB) I don't feel like sinking in that much money especially since before winter I need to replace at least two tires and the wiperfluid pump does not work anymore. The car has 138000 miles and gets 17 mpg, as soon as I can afford payments I want to get rid of it, but plan on keeping it as long as possible as it is cheap in insurance and with the few miles I'm driving mileage is not such an issue.
    Do I need to replace the sway bar, can it really cause more damage if I don't? The car drives like an old-grandpa car but is fine for my 2.5 miles work trip. All maintenance (spark plugs, tranny, coolant..) is current and the car would only need oil changes in the future 2 years. Oh, it is dripping some oil.
    If I keep it over the next winter, do I need to perform that "right rear trailing arm with alignment $ 236" repair when I get new tires? They said the tires would wear unevenly. But the current ones are just worn out all over. And if I keep the car for 2 years maximum, for the 8000 miles it will live that does not seem to matter.
    As soon as some nicer small cars with all safety features come out I plan to buy. All 4 things to fix will (sway bar, rear link, wiper pump, 2 tires) will cost me as much as the trade in value is. And I'm afraid that as they start working on the car they might find more. Is it safe to only replace the tires before winter and it won't fall apart before next year? Or should I get rid of it? Ideally I keep it until it ends its life as it does not cost payments and won't depreciate anymore. Is the oil leakage a problem? It seems to be 10 ml on my garage floor in the last months. It seems to be the engine as it looks oily below.
    I could afford new car payments or leasing for $300 a month, but feel as long as the buick repairs stay below that I keep that.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,681
    If they mean that the swaybar has broken loose and might touch the axle joint rubber boots, then just take the sway bar out completely. The car will lean over more (but if the sway bar is actually broken in half, it's already leaning over) but at least it will be out of the way. Most sway bars come out with just a couple of bolts.

    The rear trailing arms might affect rear wheel alignment somewhat but considering how little you drive, you could take a long time to wear out a rear tire, and even another new tire is cheaper than the repair by a long shot.
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    Thanks for the hint. I will have them take it out then. The car rides like a camel anyway. (our main car is a Mazda 3 , compared to that it really is bad :-). I suppse the $350 they quoted me included a new swaybar, I hope taking out the old one will stay below $100. I suppose it poses no risk considering I'm fine withe unstable driving it has always had. (which might be a Buick thing anyway, it drives better than a Kia Rio with 30,000 miles we have at work, even with broken swaybar :-)
  • pops86pops86 Posts: 4
    Redbird48, thanks for the info. I'll try it out and let ya'll know.
  • pops86pops86 Posts: 4
    I certainly have no problem with changing oil as often as anyone likes, but in my opinion 3000 miles for my vehicles is a little too soon. The oils and filters are so much better than they were back in the 60's and 70's. I change the oil in my vehicles as recommended by the maker, anywhere from 5000 to 7500 miles, changing the filter with the best filter, any of the major oil brands, and have gotten well over 200,000 miles per vehicle. As mentioned by others, keep oil/filter changed, especially in dusty/sandy conditions, change the AIR FILTER regularly, do not allow the vehicle to run low on coolant, and these engines these days will last many years.
  • I have the same problem for my Buick 99. Have you got the answer?

    Regards,
    Boris
  • fmroczkafmroczka Posts: 5
    Can anyone help me with my wife,s 2001 Buick Century. I have checked the coolant both in the radiator and the overflow container, and both are at proper levels. I.m thinking this could be a sensor, and if so where is it located and is it easily replaced? Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
  • If Diesel engine, do not do this, or check approval for use if new diesel engine. May not be approved for rotary or diesel engines. Check owner manual first. Check it out first!
    I just want to say that we switched to all synthetic oil, and cannot believe the difference in the mileage and overall performance of our car (1996 Century.) I believe this applies to all vehicles, except diesels and rotary engine. You can buy it by the 5 qt. container. Do not be fooled by the difference in price. In my opinion, you will save in the long-run. The engine runs much cooler thru the summer, even when sitting idle in 95 degree weather, without "asphaltizing the oil". This is true in cold weather as well. Engine will last longer and endure more. Lubricity is awesome, and oil changes are fewer. My husband first learned about it in industry on heavy equipment and we finally tried it on our own car. We will never go back to petroleum based oil. Oil changes last longer but they are so important. Ideally, you do not want to see the oil light, or the come on. Also, before trips and with oil changes, we are adding the fuel injector/carburetor cleaner. Mileage has improved 25% since we bought our vehicle, and that is after 165k miles. Running better than ever! The synthetic is compatible with the petroleum based, so you can add to engine either way. A good rule of thumb is to change your oil every 3k miles, but you can last longer with the synthetic between changes. With the price of gas, you need to consider changing. Nothing you read about it is gimmicky! Had we not changed, we could not have made the trips trips that we have made in the last few years. Please read about it first and use your own judgement.
  • You could have thermostat failure. Generally a simple, low cost fix.
  • Thanks for your feedback. I want to know the locations for this thermostat and if I can fix it myself.
  • rockyfanrockyfan Posts: 1
    Good morning, I have a 2001 Century, just purchased from family member two weeks ago, it has since been driven over 3,000 miles, I got stuck in traffic and noticed the temp gauge riding up a bit, not past the middle but up enough to cause me concern,, I simply lowered the windows and put the heat on full blast till traffic eased. When stopped for the night I noticed the coolant overflow was at a proper level but the coolant looked kinda thick, I removed the radiator cap and it had grey goo in the throat.. I checked the oil and the level was good, and there was no sign of water/coolant... I purchased radiator flush and I am going to clean out the system,, but I can't find the drains, should I just remove the radiator hose (lower) and deal with it? Suggestions?? Thanks In Advance...
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    ROCKYFAN.....GO TO MESSAGE #98 AND #99. THIS SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME AND AFTER THE FLUSH AND ABOUT 20,000 MILES LATER I HAVE NO OIL IN THE RADIATOR. I CARRIED MY CAR TO A QUICK LUBE AND HAD THEM TO DRAIN ENOUGH COOLANT OUT TO PUT THE BOTTLE OF CASCADE IN THEN BLED THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM WITH THE BLEED VALVE. AFTER I DROVE IT FOR A FEW DAYS I DRAINED IT AGAIN AND FILLED IT BACK UP WITH DEXCOOL. HOPE THIS HELPS. ABOUT THE DRAIN PLUG NOW I COULD FEEL IT , BUT COULD NOT SEE IT UNLESS THE CAR IS ON A LIFT. THAT'S WHY I CARRIED IT TO A QUICK LUBE.
  • elprezelprez Posts: 2
    hi y'all, i have a 1990 pontiac safari wagon w/a 3.1 6cyl engine - same as the buick century...135kmi...recently it began to hesitate and buck when backing off the accelerator at highway speed...i had "woody" tuned up and the gas filter changed, but the problem persists and has gotten more dramatic...he has begun to idle roughly...would a 1990 have a engine diagnosis hookup...? if so would it be best to have a dealer track the problem... ? the wagon is in puerto rico and i am going to visit it soon and would love to eliminate this problem...
    thanks for any advice,

    steve clark
  • I'm having a problem with my blinkers. They come on, but stay solid, no blinking. Before they stopped blinking completely, they began getting really slow about a month before they died. I'd say, 1 blink for every 10 blinks normally. Anyway, I was just wondering what the problem may be. Is it possibly the bulbs? or does this sound more like an electrical problem?

    Any help is most appreciated, since I have to get my car in order to pass inspection :)
Sign In or Register to comment.