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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • joejbjoejb Posts: 4
    Maybe just the gas cap?
  • Hi, Did you ever figure out what caused this? i'm looking to buy a used Buick Century and it is doing the same thing. Also, the power windows do not work any hints?
    Thanks.

    Also, does this model need to have the timing belt replaced by a certain mileage?
  • Hello,

    I have a 1998 Buick Century with power window problems. I read on this thread that you have been through this. I have a whole new window switch to put in on the driver's side, but the previous owner told me that he had replaced a relay in the fuse box and that it worked for one day and then burned out. He said he got another one, but that he could tell it was going to burn out as it was getting hot? I tried to call the GM dealer and they know nothing of a relay for the fuse box. Any hints of helps you could give would be greatly appreciated.
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Check the wire housing in the doors, especially the drivers side. In my car I slit open the black rubber housing and found that the wires where broken. I reconnected them with those electrical wire connectors you can get at radioshack in a box with a wire stripper/pincher. And now both my windows work.
    Cost, just the connectors/stripper package for about $10 and some of my time.
    Now I can again open my window at the drive-thru.
  • 1aviator1aviator Posts: 1
    After replacing the intake gaskets on my 2003 Buick Century 3.1 liter V6, it surges at higher rpms and will not develop full power. Any thoughts?
  • mappmapp Posts: 1
    On May 5th I took my 2000 Buick Century to a repair facility because my check engine light came on and the vehicle bucked at idle after driving for approx 15-20 minutes. The repair facility scanned the vehicle and advised me that the code pulled was for a injector # 2. They replaced the injector for the cost of $280.00

    On May 11th my check engine light came on again, stayed on for 2 days and then went off, but still would flicker off and when the vehicle accelerated. I took the vehicle back to the shop on the 13th and this time they advised me the problem was my Caddilay convertor (spelling ??) I told them that was probably what was wrong with it on May 5th but of course they advised me that they replaced the injector based on the scanned codes they received so I paid them $380.00 this time to replace the convertor.

    On June 9th my check engine light started to flicker when going uphill or accelerating at times, it seemed like the engine had a miss. I took it back to the same repair facility and this time they replaced my entire coil pack (according to them) at no charge to me this time . The vehicle seems ok so far but its only been a day.

    I guess my question is how likely is it that I needed all these different repairs in a months span? The car has 145,000 miles on it but up until this point it has not had any problems. I have owned it for a year and a half . Thanks in advance for any input on this.
  • charlinecharline Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 91 BUICK CENTURY WITH THE DRIVER'S SIDE POWER WINDOW SWITCH NOT WORKING OR EVEN MAKING A NOISE. FIGURED IT WAS THE SWITCH. HAD TO GO TO USED PARTS TO FIND A DIFFERENT ONE, REPLACED IT AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. TOOK IT TO DEALER WHO SAID IT WAS THE POWER WINDOW MOTOR. REPLACED IT. STILL DOESN'T WORK. OF COURSE, THE BUICK DEALERS DO NOT CARRY THESE PARTS ANY MORE, SO I AM HAVING TO RELY ON USED PARTS. HAVE CHECKED FUSES. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM. ANY ANSWER WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
  • Sounds like a short in the wire from the door to the switch. There are several posts on here regarding this. I have a 98 Buick Century that none of the windows were working on. We replaced the switch which we got at the dealer's and it started working. But the next day the car wouldn't start. So now the windows work, but the car won't even turn over. It just clicks. We charged up the battery and got it to start, but then it just ran down again and won't start even after driving it a long ways to charge it up.. Something is shorted out I suppose does anyone have any hints? The parts dealer said to put a voltage meter on the battery and disconnect all the fuses except the power window circuit breaker and see if it was drawing power while it was not running. We haven't done that yet. I'm having it towed to the garage tomorrow. The parts dealer said to replace the whole wiring harness as there are probably shorts in there.?
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    I can tell you with about 99% certainty that your wires in the black rubber wire housing in your driver side door are broken in half. I had the same problem. I slit open the black rubber thing and walla the wires where in 2 pieces. I connected according to wire type and color and got some of those electrical wire connectors by radioshack (comes with a plier kind of thing that is also a wire stripper) and my windows are working. Cost $10. and I am not a mechanic at all.
    By the way when you're done you need to close the rubber housing again. I used some electrical tape and went several times around to seal it nicely.
    Just my 2 cents
  • jaruylejaruyle Posts: 6
    Window in rear passenger side door has gone off track (we had to duct tape the window in place for now), and I wonder if anyone has guidance on how to remove the door panel in order to get inside and realign the door. As best I can tell so far, everything works, other than the glass has come off the bottom track. If anyone has guidance on that, I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks
  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    I'm new to this forum (I'm usually at Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee). Does anybody know what component(s) are at fault in NHTSA TSB 10004775? I have all the problems listed in this TSB. Please help!!! :sick: I have a 2002 Buick Century.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,992
    That's an NHTSA #. We'd need the Buick factory # to find that and display it for you.

    Factory #s look like this:

    03-09-41-003A

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  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Here is the factory# 030845004
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,992
    That's still a NHSTA #,

    The Buick # is 03-05-25-008

    Bulletin No.: 03-05-25-008

    Date: October 01, 2003

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:

    Intermittent/Constant ABS MIL Illuminated (Replace Both Front Wheel Speed Harnesses)
    Models:
    2001-03 Buick Century, Regal
    2001-03 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
    2001-02 Oldsmobile Intrigue
    2001-04 Pontiac Grand Prix

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on an intermittent or constant ABS malfunction indicator light.

    Cause

    The front wheel speed sensor harness may wear or come into contact with the tie rod end stud. Additionally, the harness may, in some instances, loop over the tie rod stud. In this case, the wheel speed sensor should be examined for damage.

    Correction

    Replace original wheel speed sensor harnesses by splicing in revised wheel speed sensor harnesses. The new design harnesses are of a different length and have revised retention clip locations. Use the following procedure to replace the harnesses.
    1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle on a hoist.

    2. Disconnect the left wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly.

    3. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm.

    4. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger engine harness conduit.

    5. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the engine harness conduit. Cut the original harness off.

    6. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit.

    7. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash.

    8. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm.

    Note: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud.

    9. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted.

    10. Disconnect the right wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly.

    11. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm.

    12. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger conduit.

    13. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the larger harness conduit. Cut the original harness off.

    14. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit.

    15. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash.

    16. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm.

    Note: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud.

    17. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted.

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  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Thanks for that! But how do I fix the service engine soon light and and trac off light that is also associated with the bulletin? Im going to check the codes soon!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,992
    Well it looks like the lights will continue to illluminate until you fix the root cause, even if you reset the light.

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  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Thanks a million! :)
  • aboxabox Posts: 1
    hi, this is my first time here, i need help,

    anyone has ...a parts and maintenance manual.

    Buick Century Limited 94
    Chasis: 4H69ERV306010

    THANKS

    angelbox_@hotmail.com
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,992
    I'd suggest eBay.

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  • century73century73 Posts: 1
    Hi, All,

    I'm looking to have some body work done on my wife's 1973 Buick Century. I've checked the J.C. Whitney web site, but they don't have panels for this particular model. Does anyone know of another source for these items? Thankx.

    Bob
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,992
    I doubt anyone would make aftermarket panels for this car. You might score some used fenders or a rear clip from Hemmings Motor News.

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  • seayackerseayacker Posts: 2
    2005 buick century. It has been parked for about 1 1/2 weeks. Went to drive it today and the heating/air conditioning system will not work if the head lights are on. works fine when running lights are on?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,992
    I'd test and charge up the battery before doing anything else.

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  • seayackerseayacker Posts: 2
    Doesn't appear to be the battery. Drove the car for about 12 miles, did some shopping then drove home the 12 miles and still had the same problem. Wouldn't the battery have recharged by then?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,992
    Oh no, you can't charge a dead battery that quickly with an alternator, nor should you even try to do that. You could damage both the battery and the alternator.

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  • bill204bill204 Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me with the problem I am having with my vents on my century. I can not control the vents from the windshield to the dash to the floor. Something has to have gone bad but I dont know what would cause this. I can fix most problems with a car, but if I dont know what to fix it is not real easy. Any suggestions would help.
  • kedgarkedgar Posts: 1
    I need help. I have a 1994 buick century recently died and runs very rough and low rpms when I pump the gas petal very quickly. It dies as soon as I quit pumping the petal. I replaced the fuel filter. Same result. I only checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the the back end of the fuel filter, but the flow of fuel is very strong. Any suggestions? I need this car running so I don't have to continue to drive my F350 diesel.
  • dave_1dave_1 Posts: 2
    i have a 1991 buick century with a bad compressor. i have found a replacement but i was asked whether it is a flat washer or o-ring type compressor. is there any way to tell the difference without pulling the compressor off. i drive it to work daily so i can't take the downtime to pull it and have it checked. any help would be appreciated.
  • toprailtoprail Posts: 1
    The part on which the shock absorber sits is rusted out. It is attached to the rear axle. What do you call this piece and can you buy another without buying the entire rear axle?
  • I had the same problem and it was the Cam Sensor. I got that changed and they cleaned out my filters and the car is running great now.
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