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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 2000 Buick century. Both front windows work fine but the back driver's side window will go down but not back up. (I'm afraid to test the passenger side) You can hear what I assume is the motor making a kind of clicking noise but nothing happens. I physically pushed the back window back up but it keeps sliding back down again. Any idea what could be wrong? I don't really care if I get the window working again as long as it will stay up.
  • I had problems with my signals on my 94, changed the flasher and it fixed everything, its a little metal plug in up under the dash, real cheap too.
  • my windows gave out, it ended up being the wires that run from the doors into the car, they wear out and snap when you open and close the door. maybe you just need a little electrical tape and rewiring :) :shades:
  • sounds like your window is just off track, probably just need to take the door apart and reset it, look online to figure out how to take the door apart, I think its pretty easy
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Hi there:
    I have a buick century 94 and the back windows lower only halfway. My understanding is that it's for child safety. Since I have no small children I want to get the windows all the way down. Is there a way to do this?
    Any suggestions appreciated.
  • Hello,

    My Girlfriend has a 98 Century with around 100k on it.

    It's been running hot since the weather got warm in March/April.

    It never actually red-lines and it's never actually overheated (as in, blowing the pressure valve) but it does creep up very close to redline.

    This is especially true in city traffic, and, in fact, it runs relatively close to centerline on the highway.

    Turning the heater on full-blast does, indeed, help counter the problem, although it sucks a lot in the summer heat.

    I never drive her car and just found out last week the extent of the problem (that is, that it's happening regularly)

    I'm absolutely NOT a car-guy, although I'm an engineer so I'm able to troubleshoot these things and follow directions.

    Anyway, I topped off the overflow tank w/ Dex-cool (although it didn't need very much) and that's made no effect.

    I'm going to take a look at it tonight or tomorrow and I was hoping for some advice on what to look for.

    My initial reaction when she told me today that running the heater pushes the temp gauge back down is that it's an airflow issue, and my instinct was to watch and make sure the fans turn on.

    She's been watching lately and she doesn't have any coolant leaks.

    Also, my thinking is that if she had a coolant-flow problem, why would running the heater help? Or, for that matter, running on the highway?

    I'd appreciate any help you guys can offer! I'm new here, and i was directed here after asking around on the Volvo forums i usually frequent.

    Thanks a million!

    Shane
  • CHECK THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. THIS CONTROLS WHEN THE FANS COME ON. THE FANS SHOULD RUN ANYWAY IF YOU TURN THE A/C ON. THE FANS WILL RUN AND BYPASS THE CTS IF THE A/C IS TURNED ON. THE NORMAL POSITION FOR MY 2002 CENTURY IS THE FIRST NOTCH FROM THE LEFT OF CENTER. IT GETS HOT HERE IN TEXAS , BUT THAT IS WHERE IT STAYS. THE COST OF A CTS IS AROUND $15.00 AT AUTO ZONE. GOOD LUCK RED BIRD
  • mark58mark58 Posts: 4
    In spite of many of the posts here, I just bought a '98 Custom with 73K on it from a used car lot because the price was "right." The Carfax report (for what it's worth) showed a regular maintenance history on the car but, of course, no details as to what was actually done. Any suggestions as to "preventative" maintenance I might want to do right away? Reading about this Dexcool issue makes me think I should have a flush and refill right away. If so, do I need to take it to a GM dealer to make sure it's done right? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help.
  • Ok... so I have a 89 Century Custom 3.3L. My problem consists of a failed AC (clutch won't spin) and speedometer and cruise control problems. When the check engine light comes on, the speedo, cruise, and AC fails. When the light goes off (usually after driving steady highway speeds) the problems just cease to exist. So my question is... What the heck is going on here? All my mechanic buddies are completely baffled. Any input would be just neato... thanks. -Matt
  • joejbjoejb Posts: 4
    Boris: I can't find this switch. Is it on the instrument
    cluster module, part of the headlamp switch or a separate
    unit behind the dash somewhere?
    Any elaboration is appreciated.

    Thanks, Joe
  • I HAVE FOUND NOTHING WRONG WITH DEXCOOL. IF YOUR CAR HAS IT NOW AND HAS FOR 73,000 AND IS 9 YEARS OLD IT MUST BE WORKING. I THINK PEOPLE THAT COMPLAIN ABOUT DEXCOOL REALLY HAVE SOME OTHER PROBLEM WITH THEIR CAR. OIL IN THE WATER OR FAILED GASKETS ON ENGINES WITH ALUMINUM HEADS AND BLOCKS WILL WARP WITH HEAT CAUSING COOLING PROBLEMS THAT ARE BLAMED ON DEXCOOL.
  • JOE.....IT IS THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH.
  • I have been reading the threads related to turn-signal problems. (For me: Sometimes the left-turn works when
    you click it all the way down, and sometimes not. Sometimes
    if I nudge the stick just a little, it works. But if you
    click it all the way down, no guarantee). I already checked the Hazard lights, & all bulbs work. My question is, some people have said to check a "Mulifunction Switch" and some
    have talked about the "Flasher". What's the difference in these parts?
  • from what I understand, (and keep in mind i'm no mechanic)the "multifunction switch" is the electronic device wired into the turn signal lever itself, it controls the many functions your turn signal lever might have(windshield washers etc.), the flasher actually only controls the flash of your turn signal, and in my buick(a 94) was located under the dash,generally above where my gas pedal is, it sounds like you have a wiring problem though, probably just an old wire giving out that needs to be replaced, most likely in the general vicinity of the multifunction switch :)
  • Today, while I was driving, my Service Engine Soon Light came on. This was after having driven on the highway and having to slam on my brakes to avoid an accident in the express lane when the person in front of me stopped short. As soon as I got back onto the regular roads I took a corner and accelerated around a person. I looked down after that and saw that the light had illuminated and has stayed solid. My manual says that this most likely has something to do with emissions, the Car is also due for an oil change. Does anyone have any idea what this issue may be?
  • We have a 1998 Buick Century Limited. The other day, I noticed that one of the license plate lamps is burned out. Is it possible to replace the burned out lamp without removing the entire rear taillamp assembly??
  • ripsrips Posts: 3
    I finally got to drive my sisters car and hear the extremely loud squeal it makes under these cicumstances. If you turn the fan control off and right back on, the squealing stops. Would it still be the possibility that it is the bearings need lubed?

    Thank you very much,

    Rips
  • My 2002 Buick Century has just developed a new problem. For the last week we get a loud clanking sound while the car is in idle. Giving it just a little gas causes the noise to disappear. In addition, the car operates smoothly on the road with no noise or problem. The car has 120,000 miles with normal maintenance and no major problems.

    We have had the car to two local garages, neither know what causes the problem, but both want to pull the engine and put in a new one to the tune of $4000. I have not taken the car to the dealer yet. Does anyone have any idea about what could cause such a problem? I certainly don’t want to drop this much money on the car, but I am puzzled why no one can say what’s wrong. Ideas????? Hvaughn.
  • I did something really stupid and left the headlights on for approximately 6-7 hours. I had to get into the car using the key instead of the remote. The car was dead. This is the second battery I replaced five months ago.
    Do I need a charge or replace the battery?

    I would worry about this tomorrow when I return home from work.
    Do you think the car will start tomorrow ?
  • I have a 95 century 4 cyl. and i was having a problem with overheating and the reservoir boiling. The fan wasn't coming either. I changed the upper and lower hoses as well as the heater hose. (it just looked bad) Changed the thermostat and fan relay to. now I got the fan to turn on and it cools back down but the res. fills up way past the hot water line and it starts to boil untill the fan cools it back down. When it heats up again it boils again. I've looked up, down and underneath and can't find any leaks. Nothing on the ground at all. Oh, also after i got frustrated i turn the car off and stared at the engine like an idiot, i noticed that the lower hose was squeezing in on itself, sort of flattening out. After a while it went back to normal. I'd like to fix this myself before i have to take it to emissions on the 22nd. thanks.
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