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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Wanted to add something else. I opened the hood yesterday again and looked around. this thing is frustrating me. I notice that standing in front of the car facing the windshield, on the left side of the engine block (the silvery top) there is a hose about 3/8 to 1/2 inch diameter coming from the block and is cracked were it enters the block and on the other end I have no idea where it's suppose to go, because it's not connected. The end of it is a very tiny diameter (no more than 1/8 of an inch. I looked for my Haynes repair manual to see what it's called or where it suppose to be connected, but I can't find the book right now. Can anyone shed some light as to where it's suppose to go and what it is. I will try to take a picture of it tomorrow.
    Also my neighbor suggested that I get someone with an analyzer to connect to the car to see why it's not doing anything.
    Would that be recommended and how much might that cost me?
    Before I have it towed to the shop I would like to have an idea of what's wrong to see if it's worth fixing. Also I have experience with the shops that if you just go in there they will try to "hook" you up with every part available.
    So if you have any idea, please respond.
    Thanks
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Here is what I am talking aboutimage

    image
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Looks like part of your Evaporative Emissions System and that won't affect starting.

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  • linda81linda81 Posts: 2
    there a few thing to think about. How are your tires for one thing may sure there 32 lbs in all of the tires. also fuel inj. cleaner.. fuel filter can be good bad and you will drop in the winter.
  • linda81linda81 Posts: 2
    there bulb under there that blow out. you can take the hold thing off in 10 minutes and put it back together in 15 min. there's only 8 or 10 bolts hold to hold think up. after you undo the bolts you should be about to get to the bulb. and see what ones you need
  • I have a 2003 Century. When the heater/AC knob is turned from Max AC all the way to defrost there is no change. The AC comes on but the air flows out all the vents regardless where the knob is. When on defrost, heat, vent, ac or anything else it will come out the floor, dash, vent outlets etc... Anyone have an idea?
  • Just a thought. I had the control knob strip on my o2 Century so that it would not turn the control shaft when you turned the knob. Dealer had a new knob in stock for a couple bucks. That took care of my problem Good Luck Rojeur
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    By the way, you can also get control knobs at auto parts stores. My 2000 Century had a knob break, took it to a local store and visually matched to one of theirs, works fine, looks 90% like the original.
  • gators2980gators2980 Posts: 1
    I need to replace my left headlight, I have taken it to the shop and everyone has told me that my headlight is fine. But it looks like its not working but the lights are on, but I got pulled over and the cop said that it wasn't working. I really like to get it fixed, I would really like to fix this problem. Can someone help me please!!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,131
    gators2980,

    I would encourage you to take your vehicle to your local GM dealership to be looked at. Please keep us posted when this has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • I have a 99 Buick century I recently failed my emissions test and got code p401 I replaced the egr valve. Went to detest and failed and got the same code :( again. Any ideas what it could be. :(
  • mitzammitzam Posts: 1
    I replace sensor on raditor and light went off
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    it could be an exhaust leak, also the inlet and outlet tubes to the EGR could be clogged, also improper set of the EGR gasket.

    in addition, you can check:

    Check for the following conditions:

    Important: Remove any debris from the connector surfaces before servicing a component. Inspect the connector gaskets when diagnosing or replacing a component. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion.

    Poor terminal connection. Inspect the harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and faulty terminal to wire connection. Use a corresponding mating terminal to test for proper tension. Refer to Diagrams.
    Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. if the harness appears to be OK, observe the sensor display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the sensor. A change in the sensor display may indicate the location of the fault.
    Inspect the PCM and the engine grounds for clean and secure connections.

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  • tlon7tlon7 Posts: 7
    Hi, I broke off the plastic two-piece unit (two-cup holder & change dispenser) that folds inside the compartment between the front driver's & passenger's seat a while ago. I'd like to reattach it. There doesn't seem to be any missing or cracked parts. How would I do this? I visually various ways to line up the parts, but can't figure it out.
  • Its a rheostat for the fan switch that is located below the glove box near where the floor and the firewall meet...I found the exact location by using the autozone website parts location search tool...the rheostat was like $6.00 but it was a little difficcult to get at...small 7mm screws in a tight spot ...but do-able. The loss of the lower speeds on the fan switch is a typical indication of the rheostat failure.
  • lacevedo3023lacevedo3023 Posts: 2
    edited August 2011
    Only hot air comes out when I have my A/C on. We tried to recharge my A/C and it only fixed the passenger side A/C. Can anyone help me please. I've :sick: been dying all summer. I have a 99 Buick century
  • Mine also had that problem. When I told the mechanic that I had a coolant leak and couldn't find it, he knew right away what it was. Mine was both the external and the internal gaskets. Car had 154,000 miles on it when they were replaced and cost almost $800.00. Unfortunately the lawsuit had ended when mine happened. But on a good note, the mechanic said it will last a long time now with the new ones.
  • Your not fully charged. The label is incorrect, add .5 lb. Right now you are only using 1/2 the evaparator. This was a common issue and unless you were an A/C tech for GM you wouldn't know. I was so I do, LOL.
  • My 03 Buick Century has a strange problem. All of a sudden the Multifunction turn signal switch stops working. I found if I turn on the hazard signal, then the Signal switch starts working for a while.
    Is GM trying to make fun of us? I read a similar story from someone else. I went to a repair shop and found out that replacing the switch will cost me over $500. That's ridiculous! What's wrong with GM?
    This is one of the reason, I generally stay away from American cars. That's sad!
    Does anyone know where I could find an after market multifunction switch?
    Thanks.
  • My daughters 98 Century had the same exact over heating problem and it was not the temp sensor, the engine simply needed to be flushed. We also found out that the 98 Buick Centrury DOES NOT like stuff like Bars Leak & Stop Leak it will plug the cooling system as quick as a flash. If your girlfriend has used any of these leak stoppers, this may be the problem. Try flushing the system and if that doesn't work then look at the temp sensor. Also, the 98 Century usually has two fans, if this is also the case for your Century, one is for the cooling system and the other is for the AC system (just for further info). Another great tip if you have a coolant leak, use black pepper - about a table spoon or two will do - it will swell up and catch in the leak area and plug it up. The pepper is only a temporary fix though, just until you can get something done about it. Hope this helps. Have a great day!
  • I have the exact same problem with the odometer and trans indicator going dark. You mention sensor wires. Where should I go looking for broken wires?" Also you mentioned " i took of the wheel and there is was....broken wire". Are you referring to the steering wheel? What about the airbag? Thanks
  • helzhelz Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Did you ever get an answer to this problem? My 2003 Buick Century is also experiencing the same problem: when I set the temperature to cold on both driver and passenger side, cold air comes out on driver's side and hot air comes out on passenger side in the summer. Then, in winter, when temperature is set to hot on both sides, hot air comes out on driver's side and cold air comes out on passenger side. People at my local body shop cannot seem to find the problem. Any help would be much appreciated!
  • thea67thea67 Posts: 4
    It sounds as if you may have vaccuum lines running to your heating and A/C system. My husband and I both think that, if it has vaccuum lines, the drivers side and the passenger side maybe controlled sepperately. On the passenger side, the vaccuum lines may have gotten switched, or something. At any cost, I'd have those checked out. Or there maybe a sonsor for the passenger side that maybe not working propperly. Hope this helps - ;)

    Thea
  • wkdshimwkdshim Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    If the problem is in fact due to a fault in the multifunction switch, than its fixable DIY style

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exybDRDNiCo">link title

    you can buy the parts at approx$80 from 1aauto.com

    Watch the video and follow it. The hardest part is removing the trims.

    Trick is to remove the trip THAN disconnect the battery. This will allow you to lower the shifting lever so the trim can be removed.
  • daebyohdaebyoh Posts: 6
    edited November 2011
    Problems with the odometer and gearshift light level? The problem is likely limited to four resistors on the circuit board inside the panel. There is at least one really great Youtube video showing how to get the dash apart and requires only a Phillips screwdriver. Radio Shack sells a 5-pack #271-1109 of the 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistors you need for $1.19. If you or someone you know is skilled at soldering, that will be your whole cost to repair. Following the video, time to extract the panel is less than 30 minutes. Time to repair the board depends upon your skills, but could be less than 15 minutes. Time to put everything back is less than 30 minutes.
  • Slide out some clips and the whole lens assembly will be loose. Pull it free pull off a rubber cover to access the lamps. They may be difficult to twist and pull free, but that is all it takes.
  • Jerking when proceeding from a stop and occasional low whine from the transmission started in my Buick Century 2000 at about 60,000 miles. I was advised to spend lots of money for various repairs, none of which I did. Various reports of people spending $800 for fixes that didn't last put me off.

    Update: 125,000 miles after the problem began. Still happens only occasionally. Never spent a dime on that symptom, just put up with the minor annoyance. Never had a serious issue with it.

    I replaced the engine at 142,000 miles after damage from the intake manifold gasket. A friend and I got that done over three weekends for $900, including a great junkyard engine, a new OEM "improved design" gasket set, fluids and some other parts.
  • Problems with the odometer and gearshift light level? The problem is likely limited to four resistors on the circuit board inside the panel. There is at least one really great Youtube video showing how to get the dash apart and requires only a Phillips screwdriver. Radio Shack sells a 5-pack #271-1109 of the 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistors you need for $1.19. If you or someone you know is skilled at soldering, that will be your whole cost to repair. Following the video, time to extract the panel is less than 30 minutes. Time to repair the board depends upon your skills, but could be less than 15 minutes. Time to put everything back is less than 30 minutes.
  • Problems with trunk lights and/or remote trunk release from glove box or key fob? It looks like GM used the wrong grade of wire for the harness between the car body and the trunk lid - too few strands and too stiff for all that flexing during weather extremes. Once you start having trouble and find at least one broken wire, expect the others to follow. I had five break in my Buick Century 2000 before I gave in and replaced all the conductors with more appropriate wire. The best fix without replacing the whole harness is cutting out a length of the wire and splicing in new wire (use the same gauge but more strands if possible), with the joints on both ends safely outside the flex area. You'll need to be able to make solid connections and make them watertight. Use cable ties to keep the joints from moving when the lid moves.
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