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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

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  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    I'm new to this forum (I'm usually at Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee). Does anybody know what component(s) are at fault in NHTSA TSB 10004775? I have all the problems listed in this TSB. Please help!!! :sick: I have a 2002 Buick Century.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    That's an NHTSA #. We'd need the Buick factory # to find that and display it for you.

    Factory #s look like this:

    03-09-41-003A

    MODERATOR

  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Here is the factory# 030845004
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    That's still a NHSTA #,

    The Buick # is 03-05-25-008

    Bulletin No.: 03-05-25-008

    Date: October 01, 2003

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:

    Intermittent/Constant ABS MIL Illuminated (Replace Both Front Wheel Speed Harnesses)
    Models:
    2001-03 Buick Century, Regal
    2001-03 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
    2001-02 Oldsmobile Intrigue
    2001-04 Pontiac Grand Prix

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on an intermittent or constant ABS malfunction indicator light.

    Cause

    The front wheel speed sensor harness may wear or come into contact with the tie rod end stud. Additionally, the harness may, in some instances, loop over the tie rod stud. In this case, the wheel speed sensor should be examined for damage.

    Correction

    Replace original wheel speed sensor harnesses by splicing in revised wheel speed sensor harnesses. The new design harnesses are of a different length and have revised retention clip locations. Use the following procedure to replace the harnesses.
    1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle on a hoist.

    2. Disconnect the left wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly.

    3. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm.

    4. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger engine harness conduit.

    5. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the engine harness conduit. Cut the original harness off.

    6. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit.

    7. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash.

    8. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm.

    Note: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud.

    9. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted.

    10. Disconnect the right wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly.

    11. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm.

    12. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger conduit.

    13. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the larger harness conduit. Cut the original harness off.

    14. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit.

    15. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash.

    16. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm.

    Note: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud.

    17. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted.

    MODERATOR

  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Thanks for that! But how do I fix the service engine soon light and and trac off light that is also associated with the bulletin? Im going to check the codes soon!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Well it looks like the lights will continue to illluminate until you fix the root cause, even if you reset the light.

    MODERATOR

  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Thanks a million! :)
  • aboxabox Posts: 1
    hi, this is my first time here, i need help,

    anyone has ...a parts and maintenance manual.

    Buick Century Limited 94
    Chasis: 4H69ERV306010

    THANKS

    angelbox_@hotmail.com
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    I'd suggest eBay.

    MODERATOR

  • century73century73 Posts: 1
    Hi, All,

    I'm looking to have some body work done on my wife's 1973 Buick Century. I've checked the J.C. Whitney web site, but they don't have panels for this particular model. Does anyone know of another source for these items? Thankx.

    Bob
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    I doubt anyone would make aftermarket panels for this car. You might score some used fenders or a rear clip from Hemmings Motor News.

    MODERATOR

  • seayackerseayacker Posts: 2
    2005 buick century. It has been parked for about 1 1/2 weeks. Went to drive it today and the heating/air conditioning system will not work if the head lights are on. works fine when running lights are on?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    I'd test and charge up the battery before doing anything else.

    MODERATOR

  • seayackerseayacker Posts: 2
    Doesn't appear to be the battery. Drove the car for about 12 miles, did some shopping then drove home the 12 miles and still had the same problem. Wouldn't the battery have recharged by then?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Oh no, you can't charge a dead battery that quickly with an alternator, nor should you even try to do that. You could damage both the battery and the alternator.

    MODERATOR

  • bill204bill204 Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me with the problem I am having with my vents on my century. I can not control the vents from the windshield to the dash to the floor. Something has to have gone bad but I dont know what would cause this. I can fix most problems with a car, but if I dont know what to fix it is not real easy. Any suggestions would help.
  • kedgarkedgar Posts: 1
    I need help. I have a 1994 buick century recently died and runs very rough and low rpms when I pump the gas petal very quickly. It dies as soon as I quit pumping the petal. I replaced the fuel filter. Same result. I only checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the the back end of the fuel filter, but the flow of fuel is very strong. Any suggestions? I need this car running so I don't have to continue to drive my F350 diesel.
  • dave_1dave_1 Posts: 2
    i have a 1991 buick century with a bad compressor. i have found a replacement but i was asked whether it is a flat washer or o-ring type compressor. is there any way to tell the difference without pulling the compressor off. i drive it to work daily so i can't take the downtime to pull it and have it checked. any help would be appreciated.
  • toprailtoprail Posts: 1
    The part on which the shock absorber sits is rusted out. It is attached to the rear axle. What do you call this piece and can you buy another without buying the entire rear axle?
  • I had the same problem and it was the Cam Sensor. I got that changed and they cleaned out my filters and the car is running great now.
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