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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Jason;

    Try replacing the crank shaft sensor and this may
    fix your problem.

    Good Luck kendall
  • jay49jay49 Posts: 2
    I've got the same problem as myervin (message 65). My dash lights, and tail lights don't work 99% of the time. I've checked fuses, they're fine. I heard that there's a bunch of wires on the passenger side under the hood, not easy to get to, and that their could be a loose wire. I've checked them the best I can. Try delivering newspapers at 4am at this time of year, and see how many looks you get. Not fun.
    Any help would be appreicated.
  • my headlights wentout suddenly. all other lights worked. whalf hour or so later they came back on. It happened again last night. Someone suggusted a bad on off switch. 2002 buick century. any ideas?
    Thanks,
    W Ferg.
  • Is there anyone who had this problem: My engine fans come on as soon as I start my car, this prevents my car from getting warm enough to provide heat in the winter time. One solution that I have came up with is to remove two main fuses, but the problem with that is when I do get caught in rush hour my car runs to hot. If anyone has had this problem or just know the solution could you please help me?
  • Our gas gauge needle has rotated all of the way around and is now on the wrong side of the stop pin. We were told that the dash has to be taken apart to repair this for $100 and there is no guarantee that it wouldn't happen again. This also happened about a year ago after our battery was changed, it was repaired with no extra charge at that time. Every hear of this happening? Are we getting a true story? For the moment we are keeping track of the number of gal of gas used with the computer. Any suggestion?
  • 2002 Buick Century. The highbeams go out completly. If I switch to lowbeams they stay on. Switch back to highbeams & they may stay on for a while but in time will go out again. This problem started about a yr. ago & only happened a few times. Now it is becoming a real problem. Any ideas on the fix?
  • Same car with headlight problem 2002 Buick Century 3.1. 78,000 miles. Noticed lately that it lacks power going up hills. It won't much go above 35 unless I kick it into overdrive. Also a slight miss is sometimes noticeable when driving on highway. Fuel filter? Spark plugs? Also researching the plugs I found the iridium plug is the OEM plug? Should I stay with that or go platinum or regular? One last ? does the engine need rolled back to change the back 3 plugs?
  • So yesterday when I started my car, then turned on the lights, shifted into reverse, and was about to turn off the parking break...my car just turned itself off. When I tried to start it again nothing would work except for the clock which had reset itself...but that slowly turned off.

    i tried to jump it from a honda civic, but nothing happened. my buick's power locks won't even work. everything looks connected around the battery, but i have no idea...

    I got a ride home, but i'm thinking i'll have to get it towed today...any ideas how much this might cost me/what might be wrong?
  • jay49jay49 Posts: 2
    My situation is #67 of 73. I just got my car out of the shop for the tail lights not working. Have your headlight switch, and the connector checked. It fixed my problem.
  • I am thinking about buying a 2000 Buick Century with low kms. I was reading some of the entries on the forum and now I'm worried about making a bad decision. I know all cars have their problems, but the uncontrollable acceleration problems some people have been having seem very scary to me. Should I buy a Buick Century?
  • The problem (usmar4l) that I have with my Century has been the only one, besides that I think that it is a wonderful car to drive and the price and quality can't be beat. I brought my car used with low miles, and have put plenty of miles on it and the problem with the heat has been the only downfall.
  • Hey, usually when the crank sensor fails the car will start and run till its warmed up than quit(loses spark and fuel injectors). I am not going to guess whats wrong with your car (hopefully not liquid locking the cylinders from a head gasket=pull spark plugs). Anyhow I recommend creating your own starter circuit. Bypass the ignition and starter cut relays by shorting the starter solenoid. Sometimes a screwdriver will fit but you may need a jumper wire. On the solenoid go from the top large stud (batt voltage) to the small solenoid control stud(the one with the wire from the passenger compartment). If it cranks and all is well the problem is with the crank control circuit. If it still fails check the starter engine and transmission. This trick will tell you where to go. Check that you can turn the engine over by hand. The alternators use to seize up causing this problem as well but u took the belt off. Keep digging, good luck.
  • I own a 99 Buick Regal 3.8 automatic. Lately when I turn the car on the abs light ,check engine light and the trac off light will stay on, and when I press on the brake to put car into gear I can not push the little button down on the floor shifter. If I turn car off and then turn back on all light go off like they are suppose to and I can put into gear to drive car.
    Also when I am driving below 40-45 mph and use my turn signals occasionally my car will die, above that speed the car will stay running but my headlights will go out and all the dashboard warning lights came on, like when you first start up your car.
    I have seem this problem listed on a few sights, but no one responded on solutions. please help
  • i have a buick regal ls 2004 and i brought it 8/05 lately i have been hearing some kind of clicking noise with in the dash i don't know if it only happens when i have on the heat or defrost or whether it is coming from me playing the radio. at first i thought maybe the speakers were busted but then i would not be able to hear the music at all, and when i pay close attention it seems like i only hear the clicking noise when i have the heat on. have anyone ever experienced this problem if so what can i do or should i take it to the shop. my fear is me not being able to point out the problem when i take it to get looked at, that has happened to me before with a previous car, when the car is with you, the problem exists and then when you take it to the shop it doesn't happen. please help me.
  • I'm having a strange problem, I own a 95 Buick Century that till this point has given me no problems. Occasionally after a short period of driving at night the dash lights will turn off along with the high beams. I can get the dash lights back on by manually turing on the car lights (normally they are automatic), but the highbeams won't come back. I have checked the fuses and they all seem fine so I don't know what else could be wrong. Any insight would be appretiated.
  • We have a 1998 Buick Century with only 34K miles. Lately, have been experiencing the following problem. When the engine is cold or has been sitting for an hour or so after driving and you start the engine and put the car in reverse with your foot on the brake, there is a rattle that sounds like it's coming from the firewall area. When you let off the brake, the rattle may or may not stop. When the engine is warm, there is no rattle nor is there a rattle when the car is in drive.

    The front disc brakes pads were replaced in December and the rotors were turned at that time. Don't know if this has anything to do with the rattle but I include here for information purposes.

    Yesterday, I took the vehicle to my local mechanic that did the front brake job. He searched ALLDATA but did not find my problem. Of course, I was unable to recreate the problem for him because engine was not cold enough. He told me not to worry about it. He said, "If something breaks, then we'll fix it."

    Anyone else experienced this problem?? Any suggestions?? :confuse:
  • A rod in my mom's 2002 Century blew yesterday. She got it to the Buick dealer and is having an engine put in for $2000.00 w/40,000 warranty on it. The car has 56,000 miles and she has changed the oil every 3,000 miles. The service manager told her it just was a "freaky" thing that happened-no other explanation. I think that's a lot of BS. It seems to me that at 56,000 miles this should not have occured. Also a few months ago she had a valve replaced for $600.00. Has anyone else had this problem? This car is a piece of crap!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,619
    you can't know unless the old engine were stripped down and examined by an expert to determine cause of failure...if you suspect dealer negligence you could have this done...but it could very well be just a freaky metallurgy failure...statisically this happens to anything made...

    It's a murky subject and the only way it gets unmurky is to apply scientific analysis to it.

    MODERATOR

  • molerjmolerj Posts: 9
    Update; changed plugs & fuel filter, no help. Took it to a chevy garage, they ran a scan & said the catalytic converter was the problem. It was & was covered under warranty. Period was up to 80k miles & I had 79,600. Got lucky for a change & car is back to normal now.
  • molerjmolerj Posts: 9
    update; I removed the dimmer switch,(not a real easy job, but was able to do it without removing steering wheel as the manual suggests). Sprayed it with contact cleaner & as of a month now I haven't had any more problems. New switch was in the vicininty of 300.00 so hoping this works.
  • Thanks for the info. I'll share it with my mom.
  • slobasloba Posts: 3
    Few weeks ago I noticed something like balloon under the driver`s carpet. I mean the place right under my left foot while I am driving. I did not do anything unusual to generate this thing.
    Is there some important part in that space under the driver`s carpet?

    thank you in advance!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,619
    Has your car been on a service lift lately?

    MODERATOR

  • slobasloba Posts: 3
    thank you for help!

    no, absolutely not.
    as i said, this "airbag" under carpet came up suddenly and according to me without any particular reason?!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,619
    Have you examined the car from underneath yet?

    MODERATOR

  • slobasloba Posts: 3
    Yes of course, and everything is as it used to be.
  • bradyjbradyj Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem but it is inconsistent. My 2000 Century vibrates on and off at highway speeds between 65 and 75 mph. The wheels are balanced and the tires new but the steering conumn still shakes sometimes. Sorry I have no input for you but if you have had a resolution maybe you could share it.
  • what started out as particles in my rad fluid has become a nightmare. :mad:

    I have a 2002 Buick Century with 117,000 km (highway)and now I have a huge repair bill coming. I have oil leaking into the antifreeze which requires a head gasket repair.

    Has anyone heard of this before? :sick:

    :lemon:
  • how do i remove the glove compartment container in my 1999 buick century
  • I had the same problem after buying a new battery. you might want to try removing your battery cables and making sure they are getting a good connection. I am adding to this what I wrote to someone else concerning my problem with the flopping gauges and no-start, that may have been all they did the first time they fixed the problem.

    Regarding the problems concerning no start, poor battery cables and gauges that flop to the wrong side, etc. and of course the call for help. I have a 2002-century that started erratically. Based on the age of the battery, I decided a new battery was in order and bought one at Sams Club. Everything was fine for a couple of day, then again the no start problem.
    I stopped at Sams Club and had them tighten the cables, but even after being tightened, there was still a problem with no start
    I had to have one tow and three boosts from AAA. It had to be towed because when it started the gauges all flopped to the right and the driver felt it was best not to run until I found the problem, which I did the next day.
    I reached down and grabbed the cable under the post and with a yank and could feel that it was loose, although the bolt felt tight with the wrench. I felt this could only be caused by the fact the boot wasn’t fitting into the small channel on the battery that is made for it.
    About twenty years ago a friend of mine wholesaled used cars and I would often help him go get the cars he bought, he bought many a Gm that wouldn’t start, they couldn’t even get them through the auction unless they pushed them, we would clean the batteries and cables, but that alone wouldn’t get many of them going, nor would a boost get them going, we would have to cut the ridge off the rubber boot that sealed the battery from outside elements, the boot had got formed to the channel on the battery but wouldn't fit a new battery , and often wouldn’t fit the same battery anymore, this may have come about from the cleaning which would move the boot. Some we even had to put washers on to get the cable/boot a distance from he terminal.
    The channel where the boot fits in to seal between the battery post and plastic on the Sams Club Battery was very narrow, maybe a sixteenth of a inch, I went to Costco and looked at their battery for my model and the channel was about twice as large or more, which made for a better chance of connection, and the post appeared to stick out more, although I didn’t measure it. I bought the Costco battery and put it in and tightened it and it worked perfectly that was three months ago. I took the Sams Club battery back and told them the problem and they said all their batteries had the narrow channel, then they cheerfully refunded my money. I suspect the company that is making the Costco battery is aware of the problem and that is why they have the wide channel. Good luck
    . .
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