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Ford F-250 Owners

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  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    Looks like Houston is the place to be for those Low prices....we dropped to $2.53
    over the weekend east of L.A., the best price in this town..
  • I am new to this so hello to all. I drive a 2004 F250 Power Stroke. I was wondering if anyone had any idea of a programmer/chip that would boost my fuel mileage. I have looked into a few of these items and all boast of hp and flbs but none seem to speak of mileage gains. Any suggestions? Keep in mind I am happy with the power of the truck it is the mileage I wish to improve.
  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    I also drive a 2004 F250 PS..the whole thing revolves around Air....the Diesel likes
    to breathe..you don't need any chips, the thing has too much power in my opinion.
    They should de-tune them, that would help on the fuel mileage...when you are on
    a trip find your power band, mine is at 71 mph. This will let the engine run easy and
    use less fuel..I get 19 mpg on a trip once it made it to 20 mpg. Putting a 4"
    exhaust from the turbo back will also help it breathe. Besure they attach the cat.
    when this is done...one last thing I did is open up the wall in front of the air intake
    alittle a 3" square hole to let more air in....the wall is there to keep the noise down,
    it isn't that much louder..around town is 17 mpg. Use your CC on the long runs.
  • dcrowndcrown Posts: 1
    RE: F-250 7.3L early ’99
    PROBLEM: On cold mornings an intermittent electrical problem occurs in which none of the gauges function and the throttle response is absent for the first few minutes, then first the throttle responds, then the gauges come in. What’s up?????????????
  • 1. I have problems with my F-350 radio speakers. The right side, front and back don't work. The left side works fine. Any input on this will be appreciated.

    2. The automatic door locks on my truck have quit working, you hear a "thud" sound whenever you try to lock or unlock the doors, but no action. Does anyone know about a similar problem? Is this a actuator problem? (sp)

    Appreciate any replies.
  • usmc03usmc03 Posts: 8
    Does anyone know if there is any difference in regard to emissions with the PSD when it is sold in California? I ordered my '05 from home state (registered there also) but had the dealer drop it from the factory to a dealership out here in Cali where I'm stationed. Is my engine restricted because of emissions laws? It's got about 2600 miles on it and is only averaging 14mpg. Is this because it needs more time to break in or can it possibly have something to do with cali emissions? Thanks.
  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    You might check to see if it has a Cat. Converter..I don't know if it's just in Cal. or
    not...Ford started do this on the 6.0 engines. If you have a 4X4 that's about what
    you will be getting. A friend of mine has a'03 and that's what he still gets.
  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    I forgot to mention with the 4X4, if that's what you have 14 mpg will probably be
    what you get.
  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
    my 2000 f250 diesel , when driving occasionally the steering wheel jerks hard to the right or when after i turn i fight the wheel to go straight again then sometimes all is fine, is this an indication of the power steering going bad?
  • thmessthmess Posts: 1
    Walt, I recently purchased my first ever diesel p/u - a Ford F-250 1999 Turbo
    4X4. It had 77K miles at purchase and the automatic mpg guage consistently says it's getting 14.3 mpg. Even when towing our 9000 lb horse trailer, the mpg doesn't change on the guage. Sounds like this engine is not getting the best mileage, according to other posts I've read today. No owner's manual included with truck. Your post #25 mentions an on-line place which may offer oil, filters, etc. for much less than could be purchased off the shelf. Could you e-mail me that address? Also, any tips on increasing mileage would be appreciated. I've read thru all postings regarding starting, stopping, no water in tank, buying at reputed truck stops, etc and appreciate all the good advice.
  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
    i get 19/20 mpg with my 2000 f250 diesel (manual) i have k&n filter i carry 600-2000lb payloads alot in the bed ,but have never towed
  • bonfigbonfig Posts: 14
    is there any difference in the 2 years? the jd power rating on the 01 was 7.7 on the 02 it was 9.0. whats up?
  • usmc03usmc03 Posts: 8
    Hey, thanks rscott6. I went and checked my paperwork. My truck (it is a 4x4 by the way) has california emissions even though it is registered in Delaware. Do you or anyone know if that's all california emissions is? A cat. converter? If so, what is the effect of a cat. converter on actual power, mpg, etc? Just curious to see if it would be worth taking off. Thanks.
  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
    my 2000 f250 diesel , when driving occasionally the steering wheel jerks hard to the right or when after i turn i fight the wheel to go straight again then sometimes all is fine, is this an indication of the power steering going bad?
  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    I think the Cat Converter is it...but you never now..it's a sut collector. Bush wants
    to add the "Clean Diesel" to the catagory of those electric cars which could be a
    good thing if we get a tax break of some kind..if that's the case they will be looking
    at those trucks and checking for the cat. converter....I'm going to add a 4" exhaust
    and flow through muffler to help it breathe better..the cat will be left on and I know
    that doesn't help matters.
  • markr1markr1 Posts: 1
    please help recently my 7.3 has been maybe a backfire or a miss at different times once just cruising @65 once acclerating up a hill at 55 and once accelerating flat interstate at 65-70 this is my first diesel just had it dealer serviced at 60,000 now i'm at 67,000 also last long road trip the engine stalled slowing down going into a toll booth but it started right back up no problem since.. thanks for the help
  • fredmaticfredmatic Posts: 1
    I was living in Vermont and had this problem for a while....It turned out to be a bad glowplug solenoid. This is a $90 part from Ford. It sits on the top of the 7.3L engine right behind the alternator. Since I changed this mine starts pretty easily even to below zero..... (and no block heater).

    If you can use a wrench, change it yourself.... Ford ripped me off for $125 in labor charges for less than 20 minutes of work. I didn't know where the solenoid was located......
  • We bought our '99 F-250 SuperDuty, diesel (I'm pretty sure it's 7.3), Crewcab, Auto trans, anti-lock brakes, Lariat Edition (all the bells and whistles) when it
    was 2 yrs old...2001. It had 40K on it, but was in excellent shape. We added
    lighted stepsides to it so I could get my short, fat fanny up INTO it. Got ripped
    off by the dealer, whose salesman had assured us it was ready to tow the
    5th wheel we were also preparing to buy. Turns out, the towing pkg on it was
    for the purpose of hauling FARM EQUIPMENT.... and of course, the salesman
    denied having told us it was ready to pull a 5th wheel, so we ended up spending
    another $1300 for a towing package. aaarrrggghhh....

    Which leads me to the current problem..... finding an HONEST, ETHICAL
    repair shop in order to have the truck inspected and diagnosed. Last week,
    hubby was driving it when he smelled a strong odor of burnt diesel inside the
    cab... popped the hood, and found diesel fuel all over the engine. He took it
    to the NEAREST Ford dealership (not knowing what I know, having lived here
    forever.... that this dealership & its service dept have about the WORST rep
    in Western WA!).... where he asked them to inspect THAT problem, diagnose,
    and get back to him. Monday, they presented us with a ''diagnosis'' and an
    ''estimate'' of nearly $3000.... a little more than 1/10 of it related to the problem
    for which hubby TOOK it to them.

    The problem with the diesel spill was due to Jiffy Lube having either put the
    wrong cap back in OR having put NO cap in when they did a lube job 2 weeks
    prior. (They DID ultimately put that in writing, so we have some recourse
    against JL) Diagnosing this, steam-cleaning the engine, and replacing the
    cap cost us $336., which we paid.

    But we told them we'd have to ''think'' about the rest of it, since NONE of it
    had to do with the problem for which we TOOK the truck to them in the first
    place: Labor
    @$101

    Diagnose Fuel Leak and Repair, Steam-clean engine**................. $274.13 2.0
    Front Brake Reline.................................................................... $299.98 2.5
    Rear Brake Reline..................................................................... $305.66 2.5
    Replace Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor and Replace tube.......... $395.49 1.5
    Replace Torque Converter (''T/C iss rattling and will come
    apart causing transmission failure'')......................................$1023.77 5.5
    Reseal Intake System and clean out Air Intake System............... #368.57 3.5

    Disposal of fuel..................................................................... $ 64.00
    Tax...................................................................................... $240.36
    _________

    TOTAL.................................................................................... $2971.70

    MINUS 1st on list (what we had done).................................... $335.62
    __________
    BALANCE if we GO for this line of padooky............................ $2636.08

    This vehicle NOW has nearly 100,000 miles on it, so I know it is probably
    due for some brake work, though I can't see it taking 5 hours to replace
    FOUR brake pads.... but prior to this ''diagnosis'', the worst problem I
    thought we had was a broken cup holder. NOW I don't know WHAT to
    think, nor who to go to for an HONEST assessment of the problems, if
    any. What do you suggest? Anyone live in the Seattle area, and know
    a good mech?

    soogie
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sorry I took so long to get back to you on this, busy work schedule and too many other activities you know. Your email is listed as private.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sorry about all your headaches. You just have to view salesmen as a necessary evil in car buying. Just exactly what is a Farm Equipment towing package? And why did a Fifth wheel towing package cost $1,300? A complete fifth wheel hitch can be bought at an RV dealership for around $600, $750 including installation.

    The spilled diesel fuel problem: Did JL replace the fuel filter? Did they not put the fuel filter cap back on properly? They had to have put in on, otherwise the fuel system would never pressurize and gallons of diesel fuel would begin pouring onto the ground almost immediately. They wouldn't have been able to pull it out of their shop with no cap on.

    The brakes: Those can be done by any reputable brake shop. There's no difference in your's and 1/2 ton trucks, just size and weight. I'd check around.

    I don't know about the exhaust back pressure sensor. I've never heard of that one.

    The faulty torque convertors on '99 models are a known problem. I'm kinda surprised that your's has made it to 100k if it has been rattling all this time. Since it's out of warranty and it's made it this far, I'd be tempted to keep driving it until it craps out. Of course it could take your tranny out as well if it dumps a lot of debris into the fluid. There is a transmission rebuilder somewhere in Arkansas by the name of Brian's Truck Shop. He has a reputation as building an absolutely bullet proof torque convertor. In fact, he's so confident in his work, he offers a two year unlimited, unconditional, unlimited mileage, "he doesn't care what you do to it" warranty. If it breaks for any reason, he'll replace it. To find his site, go to a search engine and type in the name just like I typed it above. You should find it no problem.

    Resealing the intake system: Interesting. These Powerstrokes use a crankcase ventilation system similar to what's used on gassers. What that means is that all oil vapors created in the engine are sucked into the intake to be burned, rather than released into the atmosphere. This oil vapor will coat the interior of your intake tract with a thin film of engine oil. The major problem with this setup is that the oil film will cause your intercooler tubes to blow apart from their rubber connectors under high boost conditions. You'll know it when it happens as there is a sound similar to a distance explosion under your hood and the truck will fall flat on its face. You'll think you just blew the motor. If that happens, all you have to do is clean the rubber boots really well and reattch them to the cooler tubes. No big deal really. Unless you have this problem, I wouldn't touch it!!!

    I would forgo this dealer and find someone else. Of course, that was the point of your post in the first place. I wish I could help you on that. But maybe I gave you a little info and insight to help you make a decision. Good luck.
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