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Ford F-250 Owners

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  • Anyone had a chance to use biodiesel? If so were any modifications required?
  • Steering Wheel is pulling to the right. I have checked tire pressure and this seems fine. The other problem is a burning smell (I think related to the wheel pulling) that just started this Saturday. This is a 4 wheel drive truck...my question is "Has anyone experienced this problem before?" If so, what are some places to start looking.
  • For about a month I had an intermittent issue when attempting to start my 2000 7.3L F250 (85,000 mi). Very seldom, after the "Wait to Start" light went out and I would try to turn the engine over, you could hear a relay repeatedly latching and un-latching very quickly for as long as I turned the key. The engine would turn over fine but when this would happen, the truck would not start. I could turn the ignition off and try again and the truck would start fine.

    Recently, the problem went from intermittent to full time. Every time I turn the key, I hear the relay repeatedly latching and un-latching very quickly, the engine turns over fine but the truck will not start. The batteries are fully charged. I have not located the relay behind the dash (somewhere near the radio) from the sounds of it; however I found that the "Injector Driver Module Relay" in the power distribution box is doing the same thing. I replaced this relay and have the exact same symptoms leading me to believe that something is shorting out the relay.

    I don't want to start swapping parts if I don't need to, and I really don’t want to take it to the shop. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :sick:
  • Check your wheel and see if it is hot after driving. If it is then you have a wheel bearing issue that needs to be addressed a.s.a.p.
  • cmw1cmw1 Posts: 2
    We are certain the problem is in the clutch. Although the truck starts now and then when the clutch is fully compress, we have found that if we turn the key to a full starting position without the clutch engaged and then begin the engaging, the truck starts. We think we need a clutch adjustment.
  • I am new to this message board and appologize if this is not the correct forum but I need help please.

    I just started experiencing acceleration problems with my 2003 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel. I am not sure if it is a TURBO problem, Transmission problem or some type of electrical module etc. It does not happen all the time though. The symptom is that when I for example go to pass someone the RPM's increase but there is NO power. The speed of the vehicle SLOWLY increases. Does not seem like it is down shifting or that the TURBO is not engaging. Anyone hear of or experience similar problems? Vehicle has 39,000 miles. I am also NEW to Diesels.

    Note: Really noticed it yesterday morning. However Yesterday afternoon when leaving work it operated just fine. Plenty of power. Again this morning, NO power and same problem experienced.
  • This may or may not be your problem, but there is a Ford recall notice out for 6.0 turbodiesel efffective July22, 2005. It is Ford recall #05S34. The NHTSA ID # is 05V270000. It involves a wiring upgrade that any Ford dealership will install and has to do with stalling. Your problem does not sound like this but it may be a precursor to the recall. Good luck
  • I was reading the information you sent coconut about the problem he was having with his truck. I have a 2003 F-250 7.3 PS. The problem seems to be similar to yours. I can be driving in the rain and it seem like it wants to cut off or if I'm driving slow in rush hour traffic it will cut off. It only does this went it rains or a change in wheather from dry to wet. Do you think the cam sensor could be causing this problem.
  • I use biodiesel currently. On 2005 or 2006, you do not need to make modifications. It's ready to go. On earlier models you may need to change your fuel lines to something that is non-reactive to the "detergent" effect of bio. In a nutshell, it's a soap. It can make older rubber fuel lines spongey and eventually brittle.

    What you Do have to make sure of is that you change your fuel filter after a few fill-ups if you've run petroleum diesel in the past. The fuel will scrub your tank and lines and likely foul your filter. After the first change, assuming you run bio consistently thereafter, it should not be a problem.

    One other point: technically, Ford has not approved the use of bio fuel any greater than B5, or 5% bio/95% petrol blend. In Virginia, I routinely see B20 at truckstops and can purchase blends as high as B99 at ag facilities (they have to blend some in order to offer the $1/gallon tax break; without this, biodiesel would not be competitive). It all works fine, but might get some strange looks from service people and get them to try and slip out of the warranty coverage. (Just tank up with regular before taking it into the shop!)

    Oh, and BioD will gel at low temp. You do not want a tank of anything greater than B50 in cold weather.
  • Hi,

    I'm a newbie to working on my truck and was wondering if anyone can tell me how easy it is change the fuel filter on the F250 Diesel. Assuming it is, what are the steps?

    Thanks!

    (This is related to my biodiesel post earlier. You have to change your filter after you start using it and I want to avoid the service fees for what should be an easy thing to do myself.)

    S
  • Hmm. Not a very active board... :confuse:
  • I had this same thing happen with my 94 F250. It happened very suddenly and was right after applying the brakes - if I had let go of the steering wheel the truck would certainly go right into the ditch- the pulling was hard to the right side and I could smell the brakes getting very hot. I was fortunately close to a buddy who wrenches on my vehicles and is very knowledgeable. He said that the Master Cylinder on many Fords has an orifice with only about a .030" hole in it to relieve the brake fluid pressure from the brake cylinders when you let OFF of the brake pedal...the slightest bit of debris in your brake system floating around will temporarily plug up that small hole and hold the pressure ON the brakes even after you have let off of the pedal (right front circuit more susceptible?). When he test drove it later the brakes worked perfectly (-of course). The brake fluid had turned very dark though, indicating that it was dirty from attracting water into the system over time (brake fluid is hygroscopic). I cant afford to be clowning around with intermittent brakes, so, I had him totally flush out the brake lines with fresh clear fluid and just go ahead and slap some rebuild calipers on the front just for good measure...I havent had any of those problems since then! Be sure to closely inspect the hard brake lines especially in the rear on the drivers side above the axle where they go into a manifold block...that seems to be a real weak spot for brake failures from what I've heard- I again had him replace these parts before they failed- he showed them to me and they were well on there way to rusting in two. -...Hope this helps.
  • I have a 94 F250 and have been experiencing the beginnings of starting problems that 'seem' to be related to the clutch pedal position. The starter will hesitate momentarily, but if I absolutely CRAM the clutch pedal down it will then start right up. I figured that the clutch switch is probably going out so I put a new one on. This didnt fix it. It doesnt do it all the time (yet), but when it does do it, it is always in the morning (damp) - it never does it in the heat of the day. It is now four months later and I am having my clutch replaced because it is definately starting to slip under heavy acceleration (my pedal free-play has been gone for quite a while; I just got used to it from daily driving I guess). I havent yet got it back, but I am curious whether this will make any difference or not. ??
  • I use oil dyes when looking for leaks in a/c systems- yes, they work very well. The main thing that I think is important is that it be checked very soon after adding the dye (like after a few hours run time or the next day, as mullins87 had done). If a very long time elapses (like your next oil change), there will be dye all over the place and it can actually obscure the exact source of the leak in some cases. When this happens they recommend a special cleaner to remove the leaked out dye so that you can do a new inspection. Some manufacturers warranties may be void if an unapproved dye is used, so check first if this applies. I've heard that they also make a dye for antifreeze/cooling systems too but I've never used it.
  • I have a 1989 F250 (bought used over a year ago). I only occasionally drive it, and for the last few months I've had to charge the battery each time the night before if I wanted to use it the next day. It would not even start a couple days later after a charge unless I charged it again first. Then it got to the place that it wouldn't charge up anymore at all. It wouldn't crank - nothing but the sound of the key going "click". I had the alternator checked out, and it only needed new bushings. But, it still wouldn't start. So, I bought a new battery even though the current battery was good, according to the parts store. When I attached the second battery cable of the new battery something up near the dipstick starting making an electrical pulsing sound, without the key in the ignition. The truck immediately started up, though. After a few minutes this zzzz zzzz sound stopped. The next day the truck won't start again. Any suggestions or help would be so appreciated!
  • I just got my new 06 F250. My first diesel, 6L, 4x4, super crew lariet, long box, 20" wheels, 3.73s with a 6 speed. I've been driving it for a few weeks now and I've been comfortable with shifting around 1800-2000 rpm. I am enjoying the milage of 17.5 to 18.5 mpg, but a friend which owns an 05 F350 mentioned that the dealer told him to shift anywhere between 2300 and 3000. When I get mine over 2000 it sounds like its over-reving to me, even being a newbie to diesels...I've operated heavy equip diesels for almost 20 years and they max out in the low 2000s. I have called several dealers and they have gave me different answers, and my manual states to keep the revs under 3600....red line is 4000. The shifts are very nice at the higher rpms and the turbo is still active when I engage in an upshift, allowing the power to accel the truck with ease, it just sounds like its over-reving? Is it just me being to used to lower rpm diesels and if so, can I drive steadily at higher rpms? Thanks very much, and I've enjoyed reading the posts in this forum alot, there is a considerable amount of knowledge in here!
  • The owners manual that came with my 2005 6.0 F250 gives the wrong
    directions for draining water from the Fuel Control Module.
    It shows a lever that you move to drain the water. My vehicle has
    no lever. The salesman told me there is a plug you take out.
    Does anyone know where I could obtain the correct directions
    for draining the water?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You're not over-revving at all. Unlike HD diesels found in construction equipment and class 8 trucks/buses, the engines used in pickups are definitely intended to rev higher than the low 2000s. Granted, you will get your best fuel economy below 2000, but shifting at 3000 is just fine.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Do not know about the 05 but my 04 you need a 6mm allen wrench to pull the plug in the fuel module water trap. You do not have a lot of room to work , with the module right up against the drive shaft. Be careful where you work as not to drop the plug, as it falls free when loose enough to really let the fuel flow. My " water in fuel" indicator light came on twice last winter but I never got more than three or four tear drops of water from the module! Really freaks you though when it lights up.
  • lefty5lefty5 Posts: 2
    Thank you for your reply.
    I can see a plug with a allen wrench
    hole in it but it faces the side. Twards the drive shaft. I am really
    mystified as to why these for weines do not put the correct
    directions in the manual. I checked a neighbor and his 2006
    manual still shows the lever that you move to let the water out.
    My neighbor ran his last Diesel 165 K and said all he ever did was
    change the filters. Never a water light. I am sure that if you use a
    good fuel supply you will not get water but sometimes you have no
    choice. Thanks again and I will start carrying a 6mm allen wrench
    with me just in case. Wonder if there is a place on the web that
    you can get the correct directions with some illustrations :confuse:
  • maweirmaweir Posts: 3
    I have a 5.4 liter F250. I have recently noticed a slight vibration when I go over bumps. It feels like a slight wheel for 1-3 seconds. Nothing to worrying but 3 times now during road trips on the Interstates I have been going over bridges where the pavement turns to cement. When I go over this I get a real bad vibration that feels like I am going to go off of the road. It feels alot like a blow tire.this one lasts for 5-10 seconds and stops. It is very unnerving . Anyone else have this problem or one similar. I know that my model year is the first year with the front coil springs. I wonder if this might have anything to do with this. My father in law has a F250 as well but it is a 2004 and he has no problems with the section of road that causes the extreme vibration.
  • Hi,
    I recently bought a used 2002 F-250 Super Duty Diesel of which I was assured had received a full tune up before leaving the dealership and of which I had recently changed the oil. I was travelling down an interstate at 65 mph when there was a sudden power loss and the whole truck shutdown. There was still power to turn on the hazard lights and I had the alternator checked just about three weeks ago when I replaced a dead battery. The transmission fluid seemed to be at a good level. The starter seems to be working, and the truck wasn't indicating that it was overheating. The only light that lit up after the truck completely shutdown was the air filter light. Has anyone had this occur to them? Do you have any idea of what might have caused this? Any suggestions you may have would be helpful. We had to have it towed. Thanks!
  • I have a 1999 F-250, does anyone know how to release the tension so that I can change out the alternator?
  • cpecpe Posts: 7
    Sometimes when I go to start my 99 f250 diesel the first time in the morning I will get a fast rattle behind the radio like a relay when I am cranking the motor over. When this happens I know that it is not going to start. I don't get white smoke out of the exhaust like I do if it is just trying to be hard to start when I forget to plug it in. If I use starter fluid it sometimes will fire and run.
  • I have the same truck as you with the same problem. I changed the glow plug realy and solve th problem for about six months. Just Yesterday the same situation happened again. Does any have a final solution for this malfunction?
  • :confuse: Tell us which engine you have. 5.4L, 6.8L, 7.3L Diesel
  • Hello everyone, I am looking for some input on what mileage people have and are getting with their Ford 6.0 diesel. A few weeks ago I purchased a slightly used (8300 miles) 2005 crew cab, short bed, F-250. No canopy. It has 3:73 gears. It has been leveled and has 35 inch tires. The previous owner put a high flow air filter in it and had 4'' exhaust installed all the way back, removing the catylitic converter. A local shop specializing in diesel after market products and performance said it had some type ( I forget which one he said) of power commander in it but it has been removed. It still has the pyrometer and wire leads under the hood. He said it has not been "chipped". So I believe it is stock other than what I mentioned. It runs great and I am amazed at the power coming from these diesels.

    I have put about 700 miles on it and seem to be getting 12 MPG. This is a mix of highway and city with most being city. My drive to work is 11 miles one way with about half being on the highway traveling 65 MPH. I have been keeping the RPM's under 2000 when on the highway. I was hoping for better mileage than this. I have been told several times it should get 17-19 MPG and on some occasions even 22 when all conditions are favorable. I have been told twice that the mileage may not be that good until it gets 12-14 thousand miles on the engine.

    So, with that, what have you folks been getting for MPG? What do you think it should be getting. Did you notice a mileage increase after several thousand miles being driven?

    I do not want to do any other alterations as far as the engine or "chipping". It already runs great and has PLENTY of power. I do plan on re installing a pyrometer gauge since the thermocouple and wires are already there.

    Thanks for your input.
  • I figured it out,Thanks for the help
  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    I have the same '05 F250 with 8500 miles on it...After 5000 the mileage picked up
    pretty good. Twice a month I take a 500 mile trip all freeway with mine. All Stock
    @ 72 on the cruise I get 22 MPG. If I didn't get good mileage with it I'd probably
    sell it. This is the best diesel I've owned...had an '02 Excursion and '04 F250 all
    diesels, never got good mileage with them. Finally found one that did. All that
    after market stuff turns your truck into the "Money Pit" like the movie. Have a Nice
    Day.
  • Rusted, I have the same truck 2005 F-250 s/b c/c 4x4 6.0 with 35's and a leveling kit. I just installed airbags on the rear last week. I have 7,300 miles and no mods whatsoever to the engine or exhaust. I'm getting about 12-14 mpg at best and I found out with my GPS that with my tires I am actually 4 miles an hour faster than the speedo reads. I run under 2000 rpm almost always because of the milage issue. I have a question for you . When I am going up hill offroad...not four wheeling, but driving up a mild grade....both of my rear tires will break loose and it appears to have limited slip. ( I try not to spin my tires intentionally) Once a week or so ago I pulled out kinda fast and only one wheel broke loose, if only for two feet on dry pavement, do I need to replace my rear end clutches or is this normal operation for my limited-slip option rear end.
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