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Ford F-250 Owners



  • Hoping someone can help me. I think I am going nuts. Approximately a month ago I drove my 1999 F250 7.3L diesel to dentist. Came out 2 hours later to find that I had power to the dash and lights but starter wouldn't even click, let alone turn over. Had my batteries charged up and still nothing. Then changed a glow plug relay and starter relay switch and it fired right off. Drove it home (approximately 12 miles) and parked it for the night. Next morning it started right up. Stopped at store. Came out 10 minutes later to same problem as the previous day, except one battery now checked out bad. Replaced battery and it fired right off. Took it home and parked it for the rest of the day. Next morning it did the same thing again. Took starter/solenoid and alternator to shop. Alternator was bad so bought new 110 amp alternator. Starter/solenoid was tested three times. All three times tested good. Put parts in truck. No change to problem. Replaced starter relay switch again and ignition switch. Pulled battery cables and cleaned/inspected them. Charged batteries to full again and installed all in truck. Started up strong and ran for 45-60 minutes. Everything checked out great. Shut down for the night. Came out this morning to 1.2 volts in each battery. Has anyone else had similar problems? I never had a problem before this. I normally drive it daily. Any ideas where to look now?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    I don't have a diesel, but it sounds like you've got a fairly substantial power drain somewhere to to totally kill two new batteries overnight. Something's draining down the batteries to the point where they won't take a charge, then once a battery is shot it's killing the other electrical components.

    Disconnect batteries again and give them a full charge. Then start looking for the power drain. You can do this with a test lamp, or a DC Current meter. Pull the fuses outta the panels and probe the sockets with the lamp. (There are fuses under the dash and also under the hood) The circuit(s) that are drawing power will light the lamp, or give a substantial reading on the meter. Some circuits, like the radio, and the computer will always have a small draw but it's not something that's gonna kill the batteries quickly.
    Once you find a circuit that's drawing a lot of juice, then you can't start troubleshooting to figure what the cause is.

    Happy hunting.
  • after 1 year chancing took to a spring and chassie shop r/r all bushing pins and a couple of shims, for 475.00 american dollars problem gone.
  • davidz28davidz28 Posts: 10
    I'm a LINE-X dealer.

    LINE-X and Rhino differ quite a bit. The biggest difference is that LINE-X contains polyurea and Rhino does not. Polyurea enhances the bedliner’s properties: 1. LINE-X's temperature tolerance is 250 degrees and Rhino's is 175. As the temperature of the bed approaches the temp tolerance, it loses its strength. 2. Polyurea keeps moisture out of the solution thus making a more dense and solid liner. Less moisture also means better adhesion. 3. Polyurea also makes for a tougher liner. The tear strength of LINE-X is 304 pounds per linear inch (pli). Rhino is 145 pli. 4. Polyurea sets up very fast, that's one reason why LINE-X goes on with heat and high pressure. LINE-X dries in about 4 seconds, so you get an even application throughout the bed. Rhino takes a minute or so to even gel, an hour or so to dry. Before it gels, gravity can pull the liner from the top ridges in to the low valleys. Rhino’s Tuff Stuff goes on cold/low pressure and thus has that “cottage cheese” or “rain on the windshield” look. LINE-X’s high heat/high pressure system gives it a very nice finished and more consistently applied texture, it’s sort of like an orange peel. The dealer can vary the texture from smooth to very rough. 5. Polyurea makes the liner more chemical resistant, especially to organic oils and solvents. 6. LINE-X offers a written NATIONWIDE lifetime warranty. Rhino’s warranty is only with the dealer that sprayed it.

    LINE-X has a new product called LINE-X Xtra. Line-X-Xtra is the first product offering resulting from a partnership between Line-X and DuPont Performance Coatings. The spray-on high performance bedliner is a “new benchmark” in exclusive composite coatings, as it combines the world renown strengths of DuPont™ Urethane Technology and DuPont™ KEVLAR®. Line-X-Xtra features include improved appearance, improved resistance to ultraviolet light and excellent adhesion to the bedliner. In addition, Line-X-Xtra is specially formulated with DuPont™ KEVLAR® micro pulp fiber. Xtra is applied like a topcoat, but penetrates the entire liner

    LINE-X has even other products, one is called Paxcon ( Paxcom has been sprayed inside the Pentagon, Federal Building in NY, and inside nuclear submarines. Also, LINE-X has been sprayed on over 50,000 of the titanium/ceramic bullet proof plates worn inside military vests. They are in use in Iraq and Afghanistan.

    Hope that helps!
  • decided to check out once more before testing. charged batteries and started her up. within half hour voltage had dropped by a full volt. after shutting down and letting cool, i turned on key. noticed smoke from glow plug relay. coming from black/orange wire terminal. insulation is melting around terminal. Also 3 inches of cable closest to relay is hot, hot, hot to the touch. cable itself appears to be good, no damage. relay stayed hot as long as batteries hooked up. am i correct to interpret that the relay is controlled by the pcm? could i have a bad pcm? (replaced relay after the first one was smoking on me). code reader is reading no code, but the truck hasn't even made it out of the driveway in 6 weeks now so it hasn't had the chance to reset the codes. :confuse: :(
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I wouldn't suggest it as a permanent fix, but since it's summer, I'd disconnect the power supply to the glow plug relay. Since it is hot outside, the truck should still start up and you'll know if the relay itself is what is draining the batteries. I wouldn't immediately go to the PCM. Use the "KISS" approach, you know, Keep It Simple Stupid. No offense intended, I have to step back as use this approach all the time. If the problem goes away, then you'll at least know which system on the truck is causing it.
  • yrbenderyrbender Posts: 25
    Have a new diesel F250 I need to last due to $. The owners manual says change oil every 7500 is that OK? Always did 3K with gas motor.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Depends on hopw you use it. For regular driving, modern pickup diesels do just fine at 5000-7500; in fact, 7500 is the heavy use schedule on my 2005 Cummins/Dodge Ram. If you do a LOT of towing and heavy hauling, then you may want to change more often.

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  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You're going to find people suggesting everything from full synthetic oil changes every 3k miles to those suggesting dino oil changes every 10k to 15k miles. Here's my $.02 worth:

    If you're really concerned about oil changes, do them every 3k miles and use dino oil. If you're still somewhat concerned, do them every 5k miles and still use dino oil. If you think the factory has your best interest in mind, then do them every 7.5k miles and use synthetic. If you want to fool with oil analysis and extended drain intervals - alot of owners, trucking companies and heavy equipment operators do this - then use a synthetic oil and let the analysis tell you when to change. You'd still need to change your filter at least every 7.5k miles doing this.

    If you're going to use dino oil, then I recommend Shell Rotella-T. I first learned about this oil while working for a large trucking company. They would routinely put 1M miles on their trucks without any major engine repair. It was used in my own truck. It had 165k miles on it when I sold it :cry: this spring. The engine was still very clean on the inside. Infact, I decided to go with 5k mile changes by watching the color of my oil. My oil would still be clean and 3k miles and wouldn't start turning dark until around 4.5k miles. If you're going to use synthetic, I suggest Amsoil. It's terribly expensive, about $8/quart, but it's one of the best oils on the market. Some of the guys I know that do the extended oil changes use the Amsoil and go 20k miles between changes.

    You'll have to decide what's best for you. You can't go wrong with regular dino oil and 3k mile changes, but that's an awful lot of oil in a years time.
  • I have a Ford F-250 2004 model with 18000 on it.I rotate the tires every 5000 miles and the tires are wearing funny.I have a flat spot on the left front where the tire is put together about 5 inches.On the right front it is dipping out every 5 inches.Will this still be under warrarty?
    Thanks for any help
  • jbudjbud Posts: 2
    I was wondering if any one can help me out on trying to locate a wiring diagram for a 2003 ford f250 superduty, I am wanting to disconnect the key in/lights on bell when the door is open i think the bell is behind cluster panel but I don't want to have to take the dash out to find it I would rather locate wires from under dash and disconnect there any help would be much appreciated
  • I am looking at used F-250's. A 1999 Diesel with 142,000 miles looks good and clean (no seeps or leaks) and a cold engine started right out of the gate, with very little tail pipe smoke, which cleared very quickly, and very little smoke out of the oil filler cap hole (I have been told significant white smoke is not good). But I looked at the oil dipstick and the oil was pretty dark, approaching black. I ask the saleman and he said this was typical of diesel. Is this true and are their any other "hand grenades and horseshoe" tests or common problems with this vehicle and engine?

  • I also have a 2004 F250 P.S.D. I bet you have General Tires that came on your truck. I had problems with the tires on my truck starting at about 2,000 miles. Here is the solution to your problem. Take your truck to a Michelin tire store and have your tires replaced. You have 10 ply tires now and you are going to get 8 ply with the Michelins. If you continue to rotate them every 5,000 miles (as I do too), they should run for you for about 60-70,000 miles. By the way, they also will ride a lot better too. I have 38,000 miles on my tires and they show absolutely no wear.
  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    There is almost no breakin necessary on the '05 diesel..I have 4900 miles on it
    and since 4000 miles everyother weekend has been a 200 mile trip..with cruise set
    at 72 MPH I've been getting 20-22 MPG..on the '04 I had the wait was to 15,000
    miles before I got 20 MPG. They cleaned up their electronics alot. With fuel at
    $2.97 a gallon this mileage came just in time. It's a 4X2 CC Shortbed w/Auto Trans..72 MPH is the power band on this one. :) :) Best Truck I've Ever Owned...
  • rodney, did you figure out what your problem was? The dashlight for the battery came on a few days ago, stayed on for about 4 days. Finally ran outta juice. recharged batteries, checked alternator...everything ok. three days later, no juice? Our problems are similar. I'm thinking about changing the alternator anyway...let me know how things are went with your truck.
  • cmw1cmw1 Posts: 2
    We also have a starting problems. I searching to see if there is or there was a recall for ignition problems. Our problem: Everything on the dash work but no turn over. Clutch switch was replaced by the dealership for nearly $200. Truck started well for a few days and then the problem reoccur. In the past we would wait a few minutes and then tried and it would start. Today, waiting is not starting the truck. HELP someone. Thanks.
  • Hello.i am about to purchase MY FIRST truck, it is 2002FORD f250 crew cab 7.3L diesel. Car has 66.786 miles on . Please if you can tell me what should i look for in problem areas and also what kind of service do i need to do on the truck. I newer had a diesel truck before, what kind of mileage i can expect, what are the problem areas that i should look for, I have bben told by few people that i need to be carefull where to buy diesel fuel(because of water?) . i am new to all of this. Please if anyone has any advice to give me i would be gratefull. My e mail is
    Thank you :)
  • First timer,
    Good luck with new truck - you need to buy diesel at a place that sells a lot of it - like a truck stop where the big rigs go. (You just can't use the pumps with the big high-flow fuel nozzles.) If you go to the local Quickie Mart that has only one diesel pump you could be asking for trouble. The fuel there may sit in the tank for several weeks or more - it can absorb water, and grow algae too. Water in the fuel will stop you quick. Algae can gum the fuel system up. Read the owners manual. Learn how to drain the fuel line water separator. Probably would be a good idea to change the fuel filter while you're at it. Also you could buy some diesel fuel additive (Power Test is one brand), It will absorb water in the fuel, kill off any algae, and lowers the fuel gel point.

    Does it get real cold in the winter where you live?- Diesel fuel can gel and get thick and gummy in cold weather - Most places switch over to winter blend fuel which has a lower gel point - but you may have to help it with the additive. When starting truck in cooler weather, watch the "wait to start" light on the dash. This indicates when the glow plugs have sufficiently warmed the cylinders to allow it to start easier. It'll probably still start without waiting, but the motor will blow some black smoke and be a bit noisier for a little while - basically causes a little more wear & tear on the engine if you don't wait for the 20-30 seconds after turning the key. If winter temps in you area go below 0, you should probably plug in your engine block heater. (If your truck was originally shipped to a northern state you should find an electric cord and plug tucked up somewhere behind right front bumper) Will make starting in the morning much easier.

    2002 was the last full model year for the 7.3L Powerstroke engine, and by that time they'd worked all of the little kinks outta the engine. One thing to be aware of is the coolant. Those engines had a small problem with coolant cavitation - little vaccuum bubbles occur in coolant flow - when bubbles occur next to cylinder wall they cause little hot spots - over a lot of miles >>100K - the cavitation can cause erosion of the back of the cylinder walls. There's a coolant additive you need to add to your coolant that prevents this - one of them is called Stanadyne. A lot of folks don't know or don't care about the coolant, but it is important for longevity of that engine - they can easily go 300-400K miles before needing any major work.

    Be good about changing the oil. Powerstroke oil changes aren't cheap - it's around 15-16 quarts. Use only oil that's rated for Diesel Engines - good choice is Shell Rotella-T - don't use oil that's made for gasoline engines or you could regret it. The engine uses the oil to help pressurize and run the fuel injection system. The wrong type of oil or dirty oil can damage your injectors - it's a very costly repair! Follow the manual oil change intervals, and change the oil filter each time too.
    As far as mileage - you don't say the body style or whether it's a 4x2 or 4x4, standard or automatic. Diesel mileage varies. Some get only 12-13 mpg, yet someone else with identical truck report 18-20 mpg on the highway. Depends on the trucks configuration, how you drive, how it's loaded, and also how the trucks engine control computer has been flashed.

    Only sorta weak point with the truck is the automatic transmission - diesel can put out a lot of torque - some folks had premature transmission failures - but they usually beat the heck outta their trucks...... Many added supplemental transmission coolers to help with towing.

    Hope this helps ;)
  • :) :) Ok. I got the more informations on the truck. it is 2002 F250 CREW CAB XLT ,Short bed, 4x2, automatic transmission ,it is 7.3Ldiesel .Car is a one owner , all maintance records and car mauals are in the truck . The truck is off road package , . i live in Massachusetts so winters can be cold somethimes. The truck is originally form East Texas so i have not looked to find the plug and the cord. As far for the driving goes most of my driving in massachusetts, new hampshire, i do not have any need for towing so truck is going to be empty most of the time(no payload). I wanted a diesel truck because of the reliability and i have been told that they can last lont time with propper maintance.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As it states in the Post a Message box, PLEASE do not post your email address - the Forums are searchable by the internet and we have no control over who will take and use your email address, even if you attempt to fake it.

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