Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford F-250 Owners

1343537394061

Comments

  • My 1988 F250 4x4 460 auto has stopped pumping fuel to the fuel rail. Relay is working when the key is turned on and activating the high pressure pump on the frame but I am not hearing the tank pump at all. Please note that the rear tank has not worked in several years , so I have been using the front tank only. Before I pull the pump to replace it is there any place I should check before doing this ? Isnt the low pressure tank pump powered through an oil pressure activated circuit? I have also replaced the filter.
  • Block heater's draw like 1000W or 1200W of power. The money you save by not paying the Electric Company would probably pay for most of your engine rebuild 350K miles down the road.
  • My 99 F250 V-10 (80,000) will crank but won't fire up. All fuses ok, fuel pump ok, but not getting any spark. COP's primary resistance is .9 ohms. Could it be something cheap like an ignition switch or MAP or god forbid a computer problem ? Have an AEM intake but everything else is OEM. Probly need a diagnostic test to determine the problem.
  • My 2006 F-250 (5.4L) when full reads 1/8th tank low, when 20 of the 29 gal are burned the tank then reads empty. This is a real problem as the odometer then stops working, the low fuel light comes on in the place of the odometer. Three trips to the service department and they blame it on fuel additives. They tried to fix it by adding their oun additive (no joy)? I'm told there are 4 trucks at the same dealership in for the same reason?? You would have thought Ford would have at lease had a stand alone low fuel light that did not disable the odometer. I have to fill the tank every three days (even though I still have 1/3 of a tank left) as there is no way to tell.
  • I have a 2004 diesel with many problems that seemed to be fixed now. This time I had no acceration and lots of smoke. :lemon: I just picked up my truck from the dealer and they have replaced my oil cooler and EGR cooler. Everything seems ok for now.
  • I have a 1991 F250 7.3L Diesel that has decided to stop starting... hopefully, someone here can make some suggestions. When I try to start the truck, the solenoid clicks once and then everything electrical dies. I had the starter bench tested at AutoZone and they say that it is fine, as are the batteries (tested also). I connect the two battery wires to the solenoid and leave it hanging rather than connecting it the fly wheel... one solenoid click and nothing. I replaced the stupid "Ford" solenoid on the fender of the truck (I don't know why Ford insists on two solenoids but that can be for another post) - one click solenoid and nothing. I took a jumper cable and went between the + post of one battery and the corresponding post on the starter's solenoid... this time I get one solenoid click, a few (5-6) cranks and then nothing. The wire on the jumper cable heats up and starts melting the plastic sheath (I think if it was heavy enough gauge that jumping the battery to the solenoid would work). My dad tells me to check all the cable connections (+/- wires)... I checked and cleaned all the (+) connections with a wire wheel on a grinder or sandpaper so they are all clean (bare metal). I didn't check or clean the engine or frame grounds because I think that if I had a ground issue, my battery to starter solenoid jumping would produce the same results as without the jumping... I did nothing to the ground when I run the jumper cable. My next option is to replace the battery cables... I call Ford and they want $300 for the cables (are you f-ing kidding me? I understand copper is expensive but how does the dealership justify that price?), AutoZone wants $110... note about the cable; the (-) cables are pretty standard, the (+) cable is connected to the left-hand battery, runs to the right-hand battery, and then splits. From here, one wire (16 gauge) goes to the "Ford" fender solenoid and then goes to the starter solenoid; the other wire (4 gauge) goes to another post on the starter solenoid. I am going to wait until Tuesday to see how much a battery shop can make the cable for me, but before I do that, am I missing something that I can check or change? Could my jumper between the (+) on one terminal to the starter solenoid really work if I had a ground issue? Again, when I do this, all the battery wires are connected as they would be from the dealership. I generally drive the truck to tow my boat only; this all happened when I took it for a drive (ran about 20 min) and then turned it off outside of a store... hasn't started since.
  • msoardmsoard Posts: 1
    i saw your message about your fuel pump problem with your 250 and wonder wether i am in the same boat. i have a 99 f250, 5.8L triton, and have had several situations out on the highway where i have experienced significant loss of power and couldn't get the speed much over 40--lots of shaking and shimmying if i gave it gas.

    did you get your problem fixed and was it your fuel pump? and how difficult/expensive to fix?

    thanks for any advise!
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    Have a 1999 F-250SD, 7.3L Diesel...Last week I had two injectors go out at the same time, number 4 & number 7.Now I have had big rigs for years and never had this happen...Why would this happen in my pickup truck...showed now signs of any problem...Been using oil additive and fuel additive with new ULSD fuel. Could this be the problem /the new fuel..??
  • :confuse: I own an 01 F-250, when i bought it, it had 67k on it. Now I have 79k on it and am on my 3rd clutch master cylinder. Has anyone else had this same problem? Does anyone have a solution to the problem? The only ones i can find are made of cheap plastic. Someone please help me with my problem
  • Had a similar problem with my 2001 7.3L Diesel. Had it hauled to the Ford dealer because it was under extended warranty. Unfortunately the warranty did not cover the damage done by a squirrel that had taken up residence in the engine compartment. $700 worth of re-wiring later, the truck now works fine!
  • orvin1orvin1 Posts: 2
    Can anyone suppy info on lifters in the 7.3l power stroke? I have recently detected a noticeable tapping noise and was told that it is due to a lifter. What remedies are available and possible $ outlay.
  • I have a 2004 F250 Super Duty with the 6 liter diesel. I recently added an EGT gauge and a turbo boost gauge. I tow an 8,000 lb. toy hauler. At highway speeds on flat ground the boost runs about 10 lbs. and the exhaust gas temp. about 800 degrees. Pulling a hill, the boost goes to 30 lbs. and the EGT up to 1,000 degrees. I don't know what is a normal range and Ford won't answer my question. Anyone know what these specs should be?
  • Your truck is configured from factory to run around those levels. IF you start chipping it and changing the operating parameters, then your boost and EGTs will rise more You can spike your EGTs to 1200-1400 deg for short bursts and run your truck all day long @1000 degrees with no issues.

    If the turbo is real hot when you're going to shut down, you just can't shut off the truck - the oil stops pumping and the heat will degrade the oil sitting in the turbo and possibly over time cause premature bearing wear. You need to run the truck on level streets or idle it for a while to keep the oil circulating while the temperatures go down. When it gets around 300-400 degrees you can shut off safely. SHould only take a few minutes.
  • i just bought a 03 super duty super cab 4x4 with 6.0 i tow a 5x8 trailer with maybe i ton of tools in it but towing or empty i can only get 12 to 13 thats city and hwy driving does that sound right i was hoping for more and should i run the 40 centain or 45 i love this truck but iam thinking about chipping it for more mpg whats the best safe way to do it ?
  • This is my very first diesel truck and it has only 150 miles on it so far. Picked it up last week and noticed a shimmy approaching 55 that evened out at 60. The steering wheel shook moderately.
    Its a basic 5 speed manual quadcab shortbed needed to haul a 25 foot travel trailer. Doesn't have a hitch yet either...any advice on where to go to get one put on?
    thanks ..glad I found this forum!
  • i have a 99 f-250 7.3 liter diesel and when i get up tp speed the truck chokes out and shuts off then i have to wait a few min to restart it and then i can only go a few feet till it does it again not sure whats wron ive had some people say fuel fillter and some say turbo i would really appriceate any help really dont want to have to pay for some one to tow it and then try and fix
  • i was wondering if it was the cam position sensor that was causing your problem for i have the same stalling problem
  • The truck shouldn't shimmy - have the dealer check both the alignment & the wheel balance (be sure they check the balance on the spare, too).

    Per a hitch, if you don't have a reputable local aftermarket shop (ask around work -- they'd proabably also sell running boards & bumpers, too), you can always go to U-Haul.

    Hope the truck gives you many miles of pleasant driving. My 2001 hauls a 25' 3000lb travel trailer very well - at 65mph (no wind, no hills) I get about 12mpg - but mine is the 7.3L engine - yours is the 6.0.

    Best,

    Stan
  • I love my f250 03 SD 6.0 4X4 supercab also but iam only getting around 12 TO 14 mph hwy&city what should this truck get? and will premium help anything ?
  • I am looking a buying a 95 f-250, it has, what the current owner tell me as a transmision issue, he is not really sure. My question is, can I identify the trans from the vin code? I am thinking of getting and rebuilding the tranny,
Sign In or Register to comment.