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Ford F-250 Owners

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  • I've recently purchased a 2000 f-250 7.3L diesel. Tonight I went to start it and every thing was normal until I turned the ignition to start it and the truck went dead. I had the electrical system checked two days ago and it tested OK. Everything is out on the truck, no door locks or lights. Has this happened to anyone else and if so what was the problem?
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    check both batteries for proper voltage. if nothing works it sounds like a cable or battery connection. when you had the electrical system checked did they do an output test?
  • put a voltmeter on both batteries and they are in the neighborhood of 12 volts. Not sure on the output test but I think the answer is yes. A cable could be the culprit but would that explain no power to even the minor accessories, say if a terminal on only one battery was bad. The connections are all tight and appear to be free of corrosion. Thanks the help BTW
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    most of the cables on that truck are a one piece that connects both batteries. it runs across the front on the radiator core support to the hot side on the passinger side from the drivers side. then down to the starter. there is also hot wire leads to the alternator and the solenoid on the fender. the voltage should be around 12.80 also 1 battery will usually support lights windows doors and things like that but won't crank the truck. check all the under hood fuses make sure you have voltage at the main power wire. this should be on the drivers side fender.
  • Thanks for the advice, I got it going, Just bought this and it is my first diesel so wasn't sure how the batteries were connected. I'd already checked the fuses. The battery terminals looked good but I took them all off and cleaned them up, more to eliminate that as a possibility. The passenger side terminals had some corrosion that could be seen only after they were disconnected. Once they were cleaned and put back on the problem was solved and the truck cranked and started normally. I guess what I'm hearing is that the batteries are connected in series and the corroded terminals on the passenger battery prevented anything on the truck from getting power. Thanks for the information. Learned a lot from this.
  • jesusbjesusb Posts: 2
    I've already sent you e-mail. I'm new in this thing in this club. Please, check
    the e-mail (looking for used brackets for my 2 external mirrors). They are full of
    corrosion. Thanks, Jesus Beltran
  • jesusbjesusb Posts: 2
    Hey guys !!!!
    I'm still waiting for any subjections....
    I need 2 brackets that hold the exterior mirros. The long brackets are ok. I need
    the "plackets" (top and bottom) joint to the door.
    95 ford diesel power-stroke. Thanks. JesusB
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    try year one
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,822
    A reporter from a large national newspaper would like to speak to consumers who are holding onto their cars versus selling them or buying a new one because of economic uncertainties. Please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, January 30, 2009.

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  • I have a 2008 F-250 Crew Cab with the towing package. It seems to have really unacceptable ride qualities. As you're driving along at highway speeds it seems to get into a (rear suspension) bouncing that will rattle your teeth. It seems that the onset occurs after going over a bump. Has anyone else run into the same issues??

    Thanks,
  • nealjnealj Posts: 1
    89 F-250 with 5.8L will not start. Last year I lost power to the fuel pump so I hot-wired the pump from the fuse box. A few weeks ago the engine would rev up to 2500 rpm in park and neutral and would never come down until placed in gear. Now the engine will not start. Fuel pump is not the problem. Engine will start with starter fluid sprayed in intake. Any ideas on the problem?
  • 95% chance its either the fuel injecctors or the fuel injecter module. im gonna say its the module. i would check that first. or it could be a simple fuel filter.
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    probably needs glo plugs. take an multi meter and unplug the wire and check the resistance if it reads zero that one is fine check all eight.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    He's got a 351, not a diesel.

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  • aztjaztj Posts: 1
    I've got the exact same symptoms after switching to biodiesel. i've replace both fuel filters and that had zero effect. did you ever find out what the problem was?
  • cwo99cwo99 Posts: 3
    Hi and Help!,

    I have a 99 F250 Diesel. I am the original owner. It has 220,000 miles and a 6- speed manual tranny. I tow a big six-horse trailer quite a bit and have a SuperChips adjustable system for the truck. For over a year now the truck won't start unless it has been plugged in. I have had the truck into the Ft. Collins, CO dealership three times (including right now) and they can't seem to get to the bottom of it. I have had the glow plug relay replaced several times, numerous glow plugs, wiring harnesses, and the pcm once. I believe it has a recalled and replaced cam shaft sensor as well. If the truck sits for a couple days, it won't start unless I use starting fluid, which I don't like to use. When it does start, it runs on less than the 8 cylinders until completely warm. The truck has no problem starting the same day once it has been running earlier in the day. What the heck??
  • cwo99cwo99 Posts: 3
    Guys,

    Your front hubs won't engage because the hubs are locked in with a vacuum system. If the vacuum system wears out, the 4x4 light comes on, the transfer case engages, but the hubs don't. It happened to me once. Just be happy it did not fail when the truck was in 4 wheel drive! That also happened to me once - hubs would not disengage but light goes out. Blew up my tansfer case at 80 mph! Vacuum activated hubs - what a joke! My hubs say "lock" and "auto". Not the old "lock" and "free."
  • I have a 2002 F250 and the door ajar light on the dash is staying on even with all the doors shut. The dome light stays on also. After I drive for a few minutes, the light goes off on the dash, the doors lock, and the dome light goes off. Anyone else have this problem?
  • jim00jim00 Posts: 5
    I have 2000 F 250 mine needed shocks @ 12,000 miles and the chrome rims would throw off the tape - on wheel balancing weights.
    If you tow a lot and then unhitch for a highway trip, then "lightness" of the back of the truck can set up your oscillation. Ck the shocks go for Monroe ( Napa) HD (yellow)
    air shocks or the expensive red&white Ranchos. Ck your tire balancing AND air pressure ( ie 72-80 psi for "E" rated 10 ply tires) Hope this helps - j

    PS. Count your rear spring leafs (and HD helper spring if any) to make sure they match...
  • jim00jim00 Posts: 5
    My experiences good and bad the last 8 years:
    1 Oil leak Appx 70 -75k "not seen" by Walmart until my dirt driveway showed
    a puddle.
    2 Frt Whl bearings @ 101,k 150,k and 212,k first two sets defective from Ford.
    3 Cam Positioning Sensor 170,k ?? NOW I find a Jan ' 07 recall notice @
    Ford.com.
    (this caused all sorts of dia-nogs form fuelpump to every injector needing to be
    replaced)
    4 Electrical short in Wire Harness under left front Valve cover (for real!!). This
    caused the truck to just shut down any old time, worse than # 3 CPSensor.
    5 Two Fuel Leaks 1.- fuel drain petcock replaced and 2. - a fuel line from the
    bottom underside up to the fuel bowl rubbed itself a hole.
    6 Oil leak "O" ring @ bottom left front oil pump? behind Pwr Strg pump.
    7 Bad side wall blowouts of Firestone ATX 275 16's all eight of them. I now run
    Dunlop 245 16 E rated 10 ply street tires
    8 Throw in one radiator (use the Diesel Radiator additive!!!) Three alternators and
    two (serpentine) belt tensioners (sp) - the latest one is designed much better.

    I learned. Do not go to Ford, find a good honest trained mechanic who "likes" diesels. In Savannah GA, I trust C & W Diesel Repair in Garden City.

    Do use the Ford or Carquest Diesel Radiator additive, and a fuel additive - Lucas is good, and throw in a little transmission fluid into your fuel every month or so. Keep your tires at 6-8 pounds below max ( 80 is max. for "E" rating). Change the oil after you've added the second quart (about 3 - 5 k miles between oil changes) And please use a HD Lucas Oil additive at each oil change and try to work your way up to Valvoline (Napa) straight 40 Weight oil in 5 gallon containers - you'll go 5 - 8 k
    between oil changes.
    Hope this helps. I wish I had a mechanical (diesel) background. This is from my
    experience and mechanics will smile and be happy to replace each injector (all 8)
    for $300. + a piece. Thanks for your time - jim
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