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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Sounds like a parking brake light switch adjustment. Its down on the pedal.
  • rudybrudyb Posts: 1
    HAVE SAME TC & SAME EXACT PROBLEM--WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED IN 3-2003--GLASS SHOP RAN WATER LEAK TEST IN SHOP BELOW WINDSHIELD--REMOVED BLACK PLASTIC LEAF/RODENT GAURD & RAN WATER IN LEFT CORNER ON BODY--SAW LEAK INSIDE AC BOX-NOT A WINDSHIELD LEAK--
    -GASKET BETWEEN AC BOX & BODY LEAKING INTO BOX & ONTO CARPET BELOW GLOVE BOX ON PASSENGER SIDE--REMOVED SCREWS--LIFTED PLASTIC--APPLIED SILICONE SEALANT TO GASKET & REPLACED ALL---LEAK GONE---GUD LUK---RUDY IN LA.3-17-05
  • I had the same problem recently. The dealer said that this is a common issue with TC. There is a air supply intake for the A/C system that can develop a leak at the gasket. The water will run down inside the door and soak the passenger carpet. They fixed it the first trip and I have not had any problems since. Be sure to leave the floor mats off until the carpet is completely dry.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    When you face downhill, the rain water seeps into the trunk instead of running off.
  • pollockpollock Posts: 1
    My car is stored during the winter and it has 65000 miles on it. When the car is driven the air conditioner is used 95% of the time. So one day the sun was out but it was cold, I decided to take it for a run. When I set the temp at 90, the air was cold so I shut it off. I then drove the car till the temp was normal and turned the heater on with cool air coming out. I took it back to my garage and put a temp probe in the vent and it was 64 degrees. I moved the temp from 60-90 then 90-60 (1 cycle) and the temp move down to 62 degrees. I cycled this about 6 times and it moved down to 52 degrees. But the heat side only moved up to 67 degrees.
    It took many cycles (90-60 then 60-90, moving the temp 1 degree at a time with a couple of times with 2 degree movement. When it hit 86 Degrees it jumped to 103, but when the car was shut off and restarted I was back to square one. I was assuming that the blend door was sticking but I thought why is it defaulting to the air conditioner side. Also I thought there was a safety function in case this happened that would let you go to defrost and you would get heat. This doesn't work, I get cool air out of the defroster too. This happen last summer but the situation was reverse. I drove down to Las Vegas using the heater and when I switched to air conditioning, the air was maybe 72 degrees; just guessing. I stopped at a shop and the guy told me I could do a self test by pushing the OFF & FLOOR buttons at the same time and then within 2 seconds push AUTO. The temp window displayed a clock hand rotating and finally stopped with zero codes. I then pushed the BLUE button. When I tried the air it blew cold air. On the way home the heater also worked when I needed it. The car was driven about 500 more miles before being parked. I have also disconnected the battery with the problem still there.Any advice would be appreciated.
  • buck8buck8 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 t/c w/28K miles. I took it to a independent mechanic that I have used for my other cars, to have it serviced. He contacted me and told me I have a head gasket leaking oil on the back corner, drivers side. I might add, I've known this person for some time, and know him to be an excellent mechanic, as well as extremely honest.

    He also told me that the 4.6 engine was called a romeo engine, that the heads were finished to a glass like finish when new, and during assembly, it was not uncommon for metal flakes from the assembly process to get in between the heads, gasket, and block, and that with the expansion and contraction it is fairly common for them to develope leaks.

    Of course, the car is now out of warranty. I'm just wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem?

    Thanks to all,
  • sacdl7sacdl7 Posts: 3
    The power windows in my 1984 Town Car now refuse to function. If I use a jumper battery with wires to the back of the door-switches, I can make the windows go up or down, but NOT with the switches themselves. The fuses are alright. A test-light shows that there is no electricity getting to the door switches. I have put in a new power-window relay (in the right passenger-side kick-panel area). The power-windows STILL refuse to function. Any suggestions? Thank you.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm not saying your mechanic is lying, but this is the first time I've ever heard of a 4.6L engine having a head gasket leak. I've heard of a few 5.4L's having that problem. It's certainly not impossible. But as for "fairly common" for them to develop leaks? That, I'm a little dubious about as I'm very familiar with this family of engines, and it's the first time I've heard of it.
  • kjfkjf Posts: 2
    I had a '92 TC (also 4.6) and I sold it to my brother with 130K miles, and he drove it 4 more years, junked it last year at 190K miles on original engine, and no head gasket problem. My '01 Signature TC (4.6) had the intake manifold gaskets replaced under warrantee. It has 63K miles nows and no problems with head gaskets, but I was told it needs lower ball joints today.
  • kjfkjf Posts: 2
    Re: Gas and brake too close... I have had same problem with my '01 Sig TC since I bought it in July '01, and told the DLR that I had heard they were fixing this on Taurus and other Lincoln/Ford vehicles. They had a tool that they measured the space with, and if it "passed" they did not fix it. Mine "passed" but I still step on Gas and Brake at same time with my size 13 right foot more often than not. It was not like this on my '95 Crown Vic, but they told me that was cuz the car was made for cops with boots on.. and Lincoln was not. It is a definite safety hazard. When I don't feel the car slowing down for the pressure I am exerting, I shift my foot to see if it might be on both pedals. The biggest problem is that the brake pedal ends up down at (and below) the height of the gas pedal when you step on the brake. If brake pedal engaged at higher point, it would not have this problem. Good luck...
  • guessguess Posts: 3
    My Lincoln will not start at times,I have started this car, not moved it and would not start the following day. This car is kept in a garage. It has been towed to dealer(s) and could not find any problems,no failure codes and fuses check out okay. When car does run,engine runs perfectly,no miss or hesitations etc. Fuel filter has been replaced,new plugs & air filter. The check engine light has not come when this condition exist Mileage on this vehicle is "75640" Help Please
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Damp/wet wires would be my guess. Take note of when it happens. There is a possibility that it is damp under the hood from sitting in the shade or garage when you wouldn't expect it. If you have longer periods of rain/clouds/fog/drizzle like we have now in the DC area, you can (and I did four months ago) have a mysterious failure-to-start problem. New wire - no more problem. Garage kept is usually a good thing, but my dad's Chicago area garage is always very damp inside.

    Also, the dealer may never find this problem if its not happening while he has it.
  • charlesncharlesn Posts: 4
    I have purchased a 2004 town car and the code for the key pad wasn't in the car - I have been told that the number exists some where on the car - I would like to know where to look to find the location of the number.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    Look on the trunk hinges, trunk rain trough, door jams, and engine bay sides. good hunting. When you determine the factory setting, the manual advises how to set a second code such as birth dates or parts of any number you like.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If you can't find it in any of those places, because on an O4, I'm not sure you will, your dealer can look it up by the VIN number. Some of them will charge you for the service, some of them won't. Hope yours is nice.
  • charlesncharlesn Posts: 4
    I found out that the number is on the computer module, where is the computer module located - they sure don't make it easy do they
  • charlesncharlesn Posts: 4
    I have found out that the key code is on the computer module in a 2004 Towncar and the computer is inside of the drivers side door, can you imagine, any way it is better to take the car to a dealer and let him use the diagnostic computer to get the number for you - Thanks for answering my question about my key pad code - Charles Nelson
  • charlesncharlesn Posts: 4
    I have finally found where the key pad code is located on a 2004 Towncar - it's on the computer module which is located inside the drivers side door, can you imagine that - I took the car up to the dealer I bought it from and he ran his diagnostic computer on the car and he got the code for me - I figured it would be easier to do that then take all the stuff off of the door to get to the module. Thanks for answering my quiry about the key pad.
    Charles Nelson
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Yup. I agree...... The friendly dealer is usually the best answer for that.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    A hostile dealer can do it too, I've learned.
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