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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • eliteswreliteswr Posts: 1
    Hi all

    hope someone can give me a little info on what to do to solve this problem. It started about 1 week - 10 days ago. I noticed that the fan would continually run, no matter the weather and the amount of time the car would run. NEVER SHUTTING OFF. Is this a serious problem?? How do I fix this??

    Need some help :)

    Shawn
  • myra229myra229 Posts: 1
    Hi Shawn,
    I have a 1997 tc that does the exact same thing. I had no idea what fan was running but it is extremely loud. It runs when the car is in the garage, all times of day and night !!! It started about a yr ago w/mine. Since I am ready to trade it in, I haven't had it seen about. I am scared to go out of town in it and only drive to work and back. Mine shuts off, but it probably runs ab/ every 15 to 30 min. The deal incentives on new ones are great but I do not think I want to buy another one--scared?? I can tell u that it only has gotten worse and louder over time.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,324
    When the radiator fan runs all the time, guess it could be a faulty temperature sensor needing to be replaced. Not expensive and better than a dead battery as a result of continual running.
  • i got code "fluel pressure tank" 1 spent almost $200 for nothing. its only 1 place helped me MOE TAXI 718 7529292
    www.MOECTRIDE.com ,/wiring problem they charge me only $40/
  • furleyfurley Posts: 13
    it's coming in through the climate control the drain is clogged.
  • furleyfurley Posts: 13
    Check the fluid level in the master cylinder or emergency brake light switch.
  • furleyfurley Posts: 13
    I as well have never heard of a head gasket leak in a 4.6 either. Almost indestructable engines.
  • furleyfurley Posts: 13
    NO NO NO! That's an aux. cooling fan to assist the A/C, it runs when ever the A/C is going to cycle for instance, if you have the climate control in AUTO - FLR/DEF - DEF - NORM A/C - MAX A/C the fan will run. If you set it to say VENT - FLR - or OFF the fan will stop in a minute of two. Ford had a problem with hot engines in prior TCs to 1995, whey found that when these cars sat for long periods of time ideling with the A/C on they'd overheat. What they did was for 1995 - 1996 - 1997 they added this electric aux. fan to assist the clutch fan to prevent overheating. 1998 and on there is only an electrical fan.
  • neauxbunnyneauxbunny Posts: 13
    OK this one is crazy. First the cruise control went out. Then, the older set of keys would fall out of the ignition while I was driving. Now, the car will not shift into gear once the car is started. In order to move, I must first put it in neutral, start the engine, and THEN put it into drive.

    Is this all related? How difficult would it be to replace/repair all of these problems?

    Thanks
    Da Bunny :sick:
  • mhelselmhelsel Posts: 11
    just call locksmith to replace ignition switch, it solved
    my problems. meh1019
  • neauxbunnyneauxbunny Posts: 13
    Did it fix your cruise and the gearshift as well?

    And, I know this may sound like a silly question...is this something that can be repaired without a locksmith?

    Thanks
    Rob
  • neauxbunnyneauxbunny Posts: 13
    Just called my local dealership.... around $125 for ignition..and $40/hr to troubleshoot the cruise control - plus parts.

    Oh joy
    Rob
  • cecil35cecil35 Posts: 1
    Dash air vents work sometimes and then they kick out and the defroster-floor outlets kick in .This happens off and on through out my trip with the A/C.Any help ? Cecil.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,324
    If this occurs when under full throttle or climbing a steep hill, it is normal for the AC compressor to cut out, applying the energy to the transmission, but keeping the windows from fogging up just in case of damp weather.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    The A/C system on the TCs attempt to keep the passenger cabin temperature at the setting set on the A/C controller. For example, if you set the unit on Automatic when start out in the morning and it is cool outside, depending on the temperature that you select on the A/C controller, the air flow will be warm and directed at the floor, with a little escaping to the window defrost outlet. If you drive until it warms-up outside, the system will change over to air conditioning and the air flow will come out at the panel vents. As you drive during the day, if it gets cool outside, the system will automatically switch over to heat, thusly the air flow will go to the floor. These system also sometimes exhibit what some might call moments of indecision. The system sips air from outside the car and from inside the car, simultaneously, and trys to balance these temperatures against the value that the driver has sets at the control unit. On some TCs, at the medium range temperature settings, they tend to exhibit the mode of operation that you describe in your post. I don't use the automatic setting feature that often. I typically set the the controller for either Vent, A/C, or Heat and adjust the temperature.
  • adjusteradjuster Posts: 22
    Go to Auto Zone and buy the switch for less than $30.00. It is easy to change. It is mounted under the dash at the lower end of the steering column. Remove the cowlings and covers, a few screws, and the switch will be the white box with the plug with lots of wires. Be careful mounting it back because it is easy to not get the pin in the slot correctly and when it is not aligned the screw tabs on the switch will break when you tighten the screws. Do not force the switch onto the steering column, if it doesn't sit properly, it's out of alignment.
  • linc8linc8 Posts: 1
    On my 2003 Lincoln Town Car, whenever I'm driving in heavy rain for a long period of time, like on the turnpike, my air bag light comes on a stays on. Once I stop for the night and start again in the morning the light is off. I recently had the car washed in a high pressure touchless car wash and the light came on, but did not come on the next morning when I left for work. I had the Lincoln dealership check it but of course they found nothing wrong and said I needed to come in when the light was actually on. I wondered if anyone had a similar problem.
  • hittmann85hittmann85 Posts: 3
    I have a 95 towncar that was stolen and recovered. They destroyed the key ignition. how much would it cost to repair that?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    About $60.00 if all that is required is a new key ignition switch.
  • harryw32harryw32 Posts: 4
    While driving 70 mph on cruise control I began to lose power down to 40 mph. I finally got it back up to 70 mph. Now when I accelerate it boggs down. I can accelerate slow. I replaced the fuel filter, checked fuel pressure (30 psi) and replaced all four cat-converters. Still have problem.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,324
    The Mass Air Sensor, located near the air filter, may need either replacing or careful cleaning. After ours was changed, we didn't lose power anymore and was able to go back to Regular grade gas. :)
  • ceastwoodceastwood Posts: 2
    93 towncar message center reads "CO" does anyone know what this means
  • harryw32harryw32 Posts: 4
    I had had the catalytic converters replaced and it helped very little. The muffler people said they were clogged. I was a ford mechanic for many years so I took your advice and removed the mass air sensor and cleaned it with choke and carb cleaner. That solved the problem as it runs like new and the fuel milage came back up to normal.
    Thanks,
    Harry
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,324
    Hi Harry, You are most welcome and probably have forgotten more than I've learned about engines and etc. All I did was share my experience with you and am happy to hear the results are positive. :) :)
    Euphonium (Bass clef)
  • betaboxbetabox Posts: 3
    While awaiting its arrival, I read through all of the posts here. I really appreciate all of the great information!

    So far today, I've reprogrammed my Remote Keyless Entry, cleaned my MAF sensor, dis-/re-connected the battery to get it to re-learn the engine stuff, and I've checked out at least a dozen other things.

    Cleaning the MAF sensor and unhooking the battery helped the rough idle somewhat, but I'm pretty sure that replacing the off-brand ignition wires and checking/replacing the spark plugs will help even more.

    Any suggestions on where to buy Motorcraft / Ford Racing wires?

    My "Old" 1993 LTC has 172,000 miles on it, and the "New" one has only 116,000.

    Thanks!

    -kevin
  • pdesautelpdesautel Posts: 5
    I have a 95 T/C w/275,000mi. Runs great little noise from the differential (fixed by turning radio up). I need help with the air conditioning plenum door. I've had it and the controller replaced and it still defaults to heat. I love the car. But it is sweating me. Any help would be appreciated.
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    I will say that you have A gem of an old car. Lets keep them going. The flap for your AC is manually moved by vacumn hose connections. They get dry rotted and have to be replaced. It is not an easy task. You have to get the instrument panel off and get to the back of the control. Don't attempt if your unsure. Maybe you have A local garage or person who could do this from experience. Good luck.
  • pdesautelpdesautel Posts: 5
    Thanks papa,
    I was afraid someone would say that. I tried to disconnect cable harnesses to see if the plenum door would open and now I get a 52 Air Bag code.
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