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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • I had no I idea that there was a heater control device in the hose line...I will have a look and do my best to clean it, but
    I don't know how that would effect the randomness of the controls...There is no service lite on and I personally changed the spark plugs and the wires appear to have been replaced not long ago with oem parts. I don't know if it would cause this but the motor does appear to burn a little oil from what I think is a few valve seals...only smokes blue a little
    after you sit for a while and then accelerate which at this point it goes away. Could this be why it runs so bad cold but runs very good when worm?
  • Just in case this is the problem I want to get a new one anyway because the buttons have that notorious cracked up problem....My question is will a unit from a later year like say a 97 mark viii with better designed buttons work in the 93 town car? As far as I can tell they are identical in terms of connections and vacuum lines in the back. Do you know what all is compatible?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    That heater control item is called a switch and hose assembly. When it malfunctions, it confuses the A/C heater control unit. The Town Car A/C heater system is constantly measuring the inside and outside temperature of the car and constantly attempts to make adjustments to the cabin temperature according to the temperature that is set by the driver. When the switch and hose assembly is not opening and closing as it should, the cold air and hot air blend doors don't operate as they should. Heat will come out of the panel vents when the driver wants cool air and cool air will come out the floor vents when the driver wants heat. A little oil use in this engine will not cause it to misfire until warm-up. Clean the mass air flow sensor and clean and or replace the oxygen sensors. The valve stems are probably a little worn but replacement of these on this engine is a serious undertaking.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    I really don't know if the 1997 unit will work on your 1993 or not; but the 1997 unit was designed to send signals to an electronic item called a blendor door actuator which is on the 1997 Marl VIII. This component, however, is not on your 1993 Town Car.
  • Thank you...I will check the o2's and the mass air. Also the air stays cold when I want cold, and worm when I want worm...its just that it wont stay on the dash vents for long befor it goes to a mix of the defrost and floor.
  • Hi Idowling, Did the problem ever come back? I am driving a 2002 TC in Amsterdam Holland and this weeek the same problem occured while I was driving on the freeway, after restarting the engine the check trac light was off and the temp was as normal, within 2 minutes it came back on again and the temp meter showed zero degrees again,
    On several forums I have placed this problem but have no solution yet,
    maybe you can help,
    greetings from Amsterdam,

    Peter
  • adjusteradjuster Posts: 22
    :) Hi; Yes I finally did find the solution to this problem. I posted the solution earlier, I guess you didn't see that. The cause is a bad spark plug coil and spark plug covered with rust, leaking spark to the engine block. It will usually be the one on the passenger side-rear of the engine, the #4 coil, but one other person I know of had the other side rear coil bad, the #8 coil. The coil will cost about $50.00 at Auto-Zone. This problem is caused by water getting into the deep hole that the spark plug and coil sit in on top of the engine. Check the heater hoses for a leak and fix that if needed. I found no heater hose leak on my car and suspect that rain water gets into the engine compartment and leaks into the rear spark plug holes as the engine slants down lower at the rear. :lemon: Fix this now, I didn't fix this soon enough and had to replace the transmission because this problem also causes rough shifting which broke the gears in my transmission. I also had to replace one cat because unburned fuel wrecks that too. :cry: /\/\ark
  • Thanks a lot Mark, I am now going to work on the car, I did had a bad coil about a year ago, but the engine ran on 7 cylinders then and did not stall, so I didn`t think it was same problem, I will surely check for leaks,
    thanks again,

    greetings from Amsterdam,

    Peter
  • Mark, I have changed all the sparkplugs(that`s not easy the car runs on Propane and almost the whole LPG-systeem had to be removed) and now the engine is running perfect again , no stalls and no warning lights came on, sparkplugs had done almost 100.000 miles,

    thanks again for your help,

    best regards,
    Peter
  • adjusteradjuster Posts: 22
    Peter;

    You did not find a bad coil? I'm a bit surprised. There is something about this engine's computer that really gets confused when the spark plugs and/or coils mess up. I tried to talk to the dealer's service manager about this and he denied that there was such a problem that he was aware of. In spite of that, he did finally suggest I change all spark plugs and coils "just in case" after I pressed him with the information I'd gathered about other vehicles I knew of with the same symptoms. I changed all plugs and the one coil that looked bad and seemed to come up the most often on the check engine analizer code and fixed the problem. Strange that I know of many others with this same exact symptoms and problems but the dealer says he's "...never heard of it." :confuse: Why don't they just admit they have a problem and tell us what to do? Is Lincoln/Ford afraid to admit that this problem is common? Why? :confuse:
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    If they admit that there is a problem, we will be after them to issue a recall. I have had issues with the coil on plug design. To me, the 4 - coil pack with the conventional spark plug wires was more relaible. With the coil on plug design, when the engine misfire causes the car to buck and jerk, the computer may or may not indicate which cylinder is misfiring.
  • i have a 2001 linconln town car and it has just started doing what i hate the most out of car, when im crusing and i want to increase speed by just 1 or 2 miles it starts jerking as i just show the foot to the gas pedal, it only does it when i very very lighly step on the gas to increase speed by 1 or 2 miles, i have tried changing the gas from BP 93 to Marathon 93 and still the same , i added lucas fuel injector cleaner and still the same, does anyone have an idea what it could be? Im not sure if its a fuel injector problem, or a spark plug problem or a coil, i dont know, first time i own a lincoln and im already disappointed, the car only has 38000 miles very clean, but this is really getting to me
  • i have the same problem and i come to find out the is the plug on the fan blower, im still having problems with it, i have to open my hood every morning and play with the plug until i hear the heat blower go
  • somehow the plug looses contact with the blower end of the plug and wont run
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    The engine is probably misfiring underload because all of the spark plugs and coils are not firing as they should. It is not uncommon for the Ford 4.6 engine to start misfiring at 30000+ miles. Does your engine service light come on? In most instances, all of the plugs and coils do not need changing at one time, just the one or two that are misfiring. If your engine service light is not coming on, change the plugs and coils in this order: 1, 4, 5, and 8. For some reason, the plugs near the very ends of the block are the first to start misfireing. Replace these, one at a time. That is, replace the coil and plug in cylinder 1, then drive the car. This may be the only one that needs to be replaced. I hope that your opinion of the car will change for the better. You should be getting about 30 mpg. With basic maintenance, the car should give you about 140,000 miles and 7 years of trouble free driving.
  • I have had a 2000 and have a 2002 and have never gotten anywhere near 30 mpg. Best on the 2000 was around 24 and my 2002 w/dual exhaust has been a little over 26. I have done the other things like keep good tires properly inflated and slow starts,easy accelerations, and use cruise on the interstates. I seem to get good mileage around 55-60 and 85+. The time I got over 26, I was driving on interstate running 85 mph. I do not use the higher octane due to the recommendation from the LM dealer. I was told it is a waste of money.

    Both engines started to periodically not crank or idle around 65K. The engine will run but will not idle. Drive it for a couple of minutes. It will crank and idle fine from then on.
  • I have a 2000 Towncar. I get 30 mph on the freeway if I stay at 55. At 65-70 I get 25-27 mph. I get 19.4 mph average with about 70% intown driving, 30% freeway driving. My car has about 83,000 miles and runs great on regular gas now that I've found and repaired the coil problems. :)
  • i wanna thank you much for your help, i love the looks of this car and will like to keep it but i wont if i dont find the solution to this problem, i have removed all spark plugs to inspect and they all look good, i noticed the car started doing that after i rammed the engine up preety good trying to impress a coworker that was behind me in a mustang i took it up to like 80 to 90 mph in short distance, it usually does it around 40 mph and like i said only when i hit the gas very very lightly it jerks preety bad it does feel like a misfire and no i have no check engine light, is there a way to check the coils for misfire, i was told that if it was the coils i would have a check engine light but i dont have one, do u think is more of a coil spark plug problem than a fuel injector problem? i checked the auto part i can get one coil for like $58 bucks and e-bay has a set of all 8 for $100 after market new ones, what do u think. i also want to mention that i also have a 1997 lincoln continental now out of service due to a bad transmission with the same excact problem, on that one i changed the spark plugs and all wires and i stiil had the same problem all the way until the tranny went out, but now im concern about the town car i just thought i meantion that, it seems like the problems i hate the most of car have follwed me with this town car taht i have only owed for 11 months
  • Is it possible that the transmission is "searching" for overdrive. My 2000 was bad about that when I was on a slight incline and was just trying to maintain speed. It would shift in and out of OD several times until I released the gas or put more umph behind it. I have seen that as a "problem" on earlier posts.
  • i thank u for ur info , im not to sure about the transmission because i dont think im giving it enough gas to ask for overdrive, now its almost an intermitten problem its only doing it sometimes, it was alot worst before i changed the gas from bp 93 to marathon and before i put the lucas fuel injector, it seems to have gotten better but i still feel it sometimes, i hate it
  • mjtmjt Posts: 2
    I have a 1988 TC when it is in park you can hear a vacuum leak near the dash. If I move the gear shift a little bit the leak stops. I dont have to take it out of park just move it. I know this happen to a 1985 grand marquis and I think the problem was under the steering column and some type of switch
    any ides
  • This problem is common with that series of TC. There is a vacuum switch which releases the parking brake when you shift the transmission into drive. This switch is mounted on the lower steering column. This switch is made of a plastic which rots after several years. The brake release mechanism is mounted on the parking brake and it also is made of the same plastic. One or both of these switches are bad, most likely the one on the steering column because the leak changes when you move the shift lever. The easiest fix is to locate the vacuum hose that goes to the switches and just remove it and plug it with something. You will then need to manually release your parking brake, but that's what you're doing now anyway, as the leak indicates the switch is already broken and not working. You can get a new switch from the dealer, but the problem will just return again someday. :mad:
  • the more i drive my car now the more i lean towards ur assumption of my town car problem, i really think it could be the transmission also because i have a 1997 lincoln continental thats started doing that and did it for a while, i replaced al plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filters, transmission filter and it kept doing it until one day the transmission burned out and will only drive when i take off and now once it shifts is skips like if the car was in neutral, the oil smells like its been thru hell, i wouldn't want the same to happen to my town car, do u have a suggestion on fixing that problem where my transmission will stop searching for overdrive?
  • Hi all,
    Forgive me if i'm in the wrong place but i'm not used to posting in forums, just signed up as we have a 1987 lincoln town car, a couple of months ago we had a new engine put in as opposed to buying a new car, it was the cheaper option, although new to the car it was a used engine. The garage who fitted the engine didn't do the job properly as we've been paying for it ever since. Anyway that's the history, our recent problem is we dropped the boys off at school and the car just stopped in the car park, no electrics, no power, car just wouldn't start. A passer by who happened to be a retired mechanic got us sorted, the problem was it turned out because of the new engine it needed "grounding"? he showed us a trick and got us on our way, we proceeded to buy a grounding cable (which is a battery cable)and fitted it from the engine block to the side of the fender wall or framework of the car, which is what we was told.Everthing worked fine until later in the day when we went to pick up the boys again,the car ran fine but on the way back all the inside electrics kept cutting out and coming back on again,cutting out just for a second or two then coming back on, the inside dashboard lights eg: gas register,speedometer,clock etc...we can't find anyone local who will take on electrics on this car so can you help please, the car still runs while the inside lights cut out, is this a major concern???? and what can we do? Thanks in advance.
    Tony:)
  • From what I gathered from other discussions in the TC blogs. It is an annoyance, but is not detrimental. The problem is the engine demand is just enough to kick it out of OD, but not enough to keep it there. I put 107+K on it before someone decided to run a red light and push another car into the side of with out any tranny problems.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,324
    fitted it from the engine block to the side of the fender wall or framework of the car,

    Try again by attaching the cable directly to the NEG terminal of the battery rather than the fender wall or framework of the car.
  • It happened gradually but eventually the AC began blowing only warm. The is plenty of refrigerant - fully charged. Someone told me to try jumping the "pressure" switch. I locate what I thought was the pressure switch - but there are actually TWO of them. They are little barrel shaped snap-plugs that plug into a two pin receptacle. One is above and the other lower , near the compressor. Is this the pressure switch? I've jumped them and nothing happens. Maybe I am jumping them wrong. Maybe these aren't the pressure swithches? Does anyone know? Thanks.

    DJS
  • Fob just quit working yesterday - replaced batteries.

    Might this be something other than the "replace the fob for $100 deal?"

    Thanks,
    Da Bunny
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,324
    Age of the main car battery? A weak battery may not activate the locks, deck lid, or horn when you press the Red button.

    The car came with two FOB's. Does the other one work?

    We have a 94, two FOB's and have had to replace the little batteries once since '94. Good Luck.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    On this Edmunds site, search on the the words "Blend Door". You may find help in those messages.
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