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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • trclark61trclark61 Posts: 2
    Replacing the ignition switch will take care of keeping the keys in place but I do not think it has any thing to do with the c c problem. To replace switch remove column cover 3 or 4 screws. (you may want to disconnect negative battery cable) insert keys in ignition, turn to on position (not start),find small silver button on bottom side of switch housing depress and pull switch out. installation of new switch only requires you to push it in with the key and turn back to off it is now locked in place. no since paying a lock smith for a job that anyone who can turn a screwdriver can do!!!
  • nsks475nsks475 Posts: 2
    I have a 1992 Lincoln Town Car which ran great till we replaced the air filter,4 months soon as we started it afterwards,it ran just awful.we figured out that it was the mass air flow sensor,so we bought a new one and put it,the car runs fine under acceleration,but will die when coasting,and we have to pull over and restart it.according to what i've read just browsing the internet,this still sounds like the mass air flow sensor,but how could this be the problem?does anyone have any suggestions what may be causing this? thanks for your replies. karen
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    Our 94 TC's fuel filter was replaced when the Mass Air Flow Sensor was replaced. How old is your fuel filter? Ours is located under the car on the side, but I forget which side.
  • nsks475nsks475 Posts: 2
    we haven't replaced the fuel filter.i guess we can try that and see what couldn't hurt,anyways,and maybe it'll fix the problem. thanks. karen
  • hi i have an issue if anyone can help? i have a 96 town car and there is a coolant hose that goes from where the water pump is underneath the intake manifold. were does this hose go? can i replace it without taking off the intake manifold? also the brake lines that go under the body on driverside rear any help would be appricated. thank you lonnie
  • Unfortunately, I've been down this road before. On my 93 the intake manifold (plenum) had to be removed. You're looking at around $500 for a shop to do it. I believe the hose connects to a metal heater line directly under the manifold where you can't get to it. The hose is connected at this point by a metal crimp.

    I believe they usually start leaking at the crimp point. It starts slowly and progresses. At first you won't see any coolant underneath because it stays in the v of the engine block. But you'll smell that tell tale odor of leaking coolant.

    You have four options at this point. 1. If you don't ever use the heater you may be able to cap off the water pump outlet and the heater for a cheap fix. 2. Sell the car and let the next guy worry about it. 3. Live with it for maybe another 6 months until it gets serious . 3. Fix it right away.

    To fix it you'll have to remove the plenum and everything connected to it. Cut the metal tube at the crimp point as the crimp can't be reused. Put a new hose on with a new metal clamp at both ends. Replace the plenum, reconnect everything and hope a pray it doesn't happen again while you still own the car.

    I've commented on the stupidity of this design before. I would never buy a car/truck with this setup again. Most owners don't know about this expensive problem just waiting to happen. It's not a matter of if... but when. Rubber wears out and leaks. Why you have to go thru all this nonsense is beyond me.
  • thanks peachpie5254 for the info this helps narrow my options. if you have another comment on another factory ideal as to the metal brake lines the run along the frame rail (thats fine) until it gets to the rear wheelwell and then goes under the body between it and the frame rail any way to change theses with out lifting the body? any info on this issue would be appreciated also.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    I have replaced a number of these hoses without using the expensive Ford/Lincoln hose and without removing the intake manifold. It takes a little more than an hour to make this fix. Procedure: Disconnect battery at the negative post; Remove the black structure that is on the top of the engine; Slip the serpentine belt off of the alternator; remove the alternator; drain about a half gallon of coolant out of the radiator; slip the hose clamp off of the hose that is connected behind the water pump; cut the hose using a box cutter or hawkbill as far as you can under the manifold and remove it; at the other end of the hose at the fire wall, disconnect and remove the hose from the heater core. You will need to buy a piece of heater hose about 4 feet long. The diameter has to match the size of the hose that fits the connection at the water pump. You will need a piece of "L" shaped hose that looks similar to the piece that was removed from the fire wall. In most instances I've had to destroy the old hose to get it off. This small hose has to be the same diameter as the hose removed from the heater connection. Because the hoses will not be the same size, you will have to buy an adapter to fit one end of the 4 foot hose and the end of the "L" shaped hose. Push the 4 foot hose under the manifold. It will pass beside the old hose. It will come to the back of the engine where you can pull it over near the heater connection. At the heater connection, clamp on the "L" shaped hose. Place the adapter in the other end of the "L" shaped hose; Put the hose clamps on; Cut the 4 foot hose to the length needed to fit the connector. Refill the coolant tank, reconnect and reassemble and you are ready to go. By the way, does your 96 have the all plastic black manifold? If it does then you may be looking at replacing it. They have a tendency to crack. It takes about four hours to replace it.
  • I Have a 1993 Lincoln towncar that was just given to me when my grandfather passed away and was wandering
    if someone with knowledge of these cars could help me out. The car runs very good when it has been wormed up but when you first start it it runs very rough. I know that a lot is computer controlled but is there any main unit or module that would control motor performance when it's still cold?...also the climate control unit keeps going from floor and defrost to the vents when all I want is for it to blow from the vents. I have traced all vacuum lines and have found no leaks what so ever. Also the actuator for that door flap
    is obviously working so could this be the head unit itself?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    Do you know if the spark plugs and plug wires have been changed on this car? Does the "Service Engine" light come on? You may be having trouble with the mass air flow sensor and/or the oxygen sensors. The A/C problem may becaused by the heater control device which is in the heater hose line which is under the hood of the car on the passenger side of the car. Some times you can just clean these and the A/C system will start functioning normally. This device has an electrical connector and vacumm lines connected to it.
  • I had no I idea that there was a heater control device in the hose line...I will have a look and do my best to clean it, but
    I don't know how that would effect the randomness of the controls...There is no service lite on and I personally changed the spark plugs and the wires appear to have been replaced not long ago with oem parts. I don't know if it would cause this but the motor does appear to burn a little oil from what I think is a few valve seals...only smokes blue a little
    after you sit for a while and then accelerate which at this point it goes away. Could this be why it runs so bad cold but runs very good when worm?
  • Just in case this is the problem I want to get a new one anyway because the buttons have that notorious cracked up problem....My question is will a unit from a later year like say a 97 mark viii with better designed buttons work in the 93 town car? As far as I can tell they are identical in terms of connections and vacuum lines in the back. Do you know what all is compatible?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    That heater control item is called a switch and hose assembly. When it malfunctions, it confuses the A/C heater control unit. The Town Car A/C heater system is constantly measuring the inside and outside temperature of the car and constantly attempts to make adjustments to the cabin temperature according to the temperature that is set by the driver. When the switch and hose assembly is not opening and closing as it should, the cold air and hot air blend doors don't operate as they should. Heat will come out of the panel vents when the driver wants cool air and cool air will come out the floor vents when the driver wants heat. A little oil use in this engine will not cause it to misfire until warm-up. Clean the mass air flow sensor and clean and or replace the oxygen sensors. The valve stems are probably a little worn but replacement of these on this engine is a serious undertaking.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    I really don't know if the 1997 unit will work on your 1993 or not; but the 1997 unit was designed to send signals to an electronic item called a blendor door actuator which is on the 1997 Marl VIII. This component, however, is not on your 1993 Town Car.
  • Thank you...I will check the o2's and the mass air. Also the air stays cold when I want cold, and worm when I want worm...its just that it wont stay on the dash vents for long befor it goes to a mix of the defrost and floor.
  • Hi Idowling, Did the problem ever come back? I am driving a 2002 TC in Amsterdam Holland and this weeek the same problem occured while I was driving on the freeway, after restarting the engine the check trac light was off and the temp was as normal, within 2 minutes it came back on again and the temp meter showed zero degrees again,
    On several forums I have placed this problem but have no solution yet,
    maybe you can help,
    greetings from Amsterdam,

  • adjusteradjuster Posts: 22
    :) Hi; Yes I finally did find the solution to this problem. I posted the solution earlier, I guess you didn't see that. The cause is a bad spark plug coil and spark plug covered with rust, leaking spark to the engine block. It will usually be the one on the passenger side-rear of the engine, the #4 coil, but one other person I know of had the other side rear coil bad, the #8 coil. The coil will cost about $50.00 at Auto-Zone. This problem is caused by water getting into the deep hole that the spark plug and coil sit in on top of the engine. Check the heater hoses for a leak and fix that if needed. I found no heater hose leak on my car and suspect that rain water gets into the engine compartment and leaks into the rear spark plug holes as the engine slants down lower at the rear. :lemon: Fix this now, I didn't fix this soon enough and had to replace the transmission because this problem also causes rough shifting which broke the gears in my transmission. I also had to replace one cat because unburned fuel wrecks that too. :cry: /\/\ark
  • Thanks a lot Mark, I am now going to work on the car, I did had a bad coil about a year ago, but the engine ran on 7 cylinders then and did not stall, so I didn`t think it was same problem, I will surely check for leaks,
    thanks again,

    greetings from Amsterdam,

  • Mark, I have changed all the sparkplugs(that`s not easy the car runs on Propane and almost the whole LPG-systeem had to be removed) and now the engine is running perfect again , no stalls and no warning lights came on, sparkplugs had done almost 100.000 miles,

    thanks again for your help,

    best regards,
  • adjusteradjuster Posts: 22

    You did not find a bad coil? I'm a bit surprised. There is something about this engine's computer that really gets confused when the spark plugs and/or coils mess up. I tried to talk to the dealer's service manager about this and he denied that there was such a problem that he was aware of. In spite of that, he did finally suggest I change all spark plugs and coils "just in case" after I pressed him with the information I'd gathered about other vehicles I knew of with the same symptoms. I changed all plugs and the one coil that looked bad and seemed to come up the most often on the check engine analizer code and fixed the problem. Strange that I know of many others with this same exact symptoms and problems but the dealer says he's "...never heard of it." :confuse: Why don't they just admit they have a problem and tell us what to do? Is Lincoln/Ford afraid to admit that this problem is common? Why? :confuse:
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