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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Posts: 159
    edited April 2010
    Hi.It's pretty simple actually.All you need is the right tool.If you look on both sides of the radio,you'll see 4 little round holes.Go to ebay or your ford dealer and get the tool to put in there and then you just pull and it comes out.The tool is shaped like a sideways horseshoe.
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    i cant find the tool on e-bay it might be because i really don't know what i'm looking for.Can the tool be purchase at auto parts store, :confuse:
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    Yesterday it wouldn't crank at all again so I bit the bullet and had the starter replaced. The old starter had Mortorcraft written on it so it could be the original. If it is I think that's a good longevity. 17 yrs/160K miles.
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    93 TC. 4.6L This the inline one that costs about $12.
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    Here is a link to show location and how to replace most town car fuel filters.
    http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00260.html
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    Where is that sensor?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Posts: 159
    You can try an auto parts store but any ford/lincoln dealer will have one too.
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    the a/c wasnt working so i had it recharged and now sometimes it works for a while and then it wont work. it seems like i can turn it off and restart and it will work for a while. whats is going on?
  • My 2000 Town Car with 110,xxx miles has been having exactly the same problems. At first, I thought that it might have something to do with the transmission, because the car would "buck" as if the transmission was hunting for the proper gear, but this is not the case. Rather, as others have noted in this forum (thanks to you all), the cause of the problem is ignition. I replaced the boots (Borg-Warner @ $4.50/each) and spark plugs (Autolite platinum @ $2.50/each); now it runs smooth as a dream, even when added load is placed on the engine while engaged in overdrive (i.e. the conditions which would produce the "check trac" warning light, zero temperature gauge reading, rough running / bucking, and goofy downshift outcomes). 7mm to remove the coils from the manifold, 5/8" spark plug socket with extension to remove plugs. Gap is .054". Platinum is OE. Must remove plastic air intake on driver's side to access driver's side coils/plugs/boots: one nut atop the engine and disconnect from airfilter, throttle, and two smaller hoses at the rear.

    2000 Town Car: Does anyone have a remedy for random turn signal clicking?

    2000 Town Car: Does anyone have a remedy for a heat/ac blower motor that won't turn on?

    2000 Town Car: I had water collecting in the passenger side footwell as well. Water was leaking through the fresh air intake gasket just underneath the windshield on the passenger side. I fixed this with a homemade rubber gasket and silicone caulk.
  • Hello everyone, my issue seems to be that when i accelerate my TC i get this awful screech, and if i hit the gas a little too aggressively than i get a clack,clack,clack followed by the screeching. only seems to do it while i've got the accelerator pressed, no sounds when im just coasting. not very handy over here so any help would be appreciated.
  • Could it be your belts under the hood you're hearing??Other then that,is your e brake on? :confuse:
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 161
    If it is under the hood, you may be able to isolate this noise with some WD40. Without the engine running (for the inexperienced) squirt a small amount of WD40 behind a couple of the pulleys (idlers, water pump, power steering, alternator). Start the car between each application. Although the car is at idle, you should be able to hear some slight differentiation in the sound. If the noise is at one or more of the pulleys, the WD40 will silence it but only for a short period of time.
  • The blower motor in my 2000 Town Car stopped working about a month ago, prior to total failure it was intermittent. The problem was a faulty blower motor resistor (aka blower motor speed control), which is mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall behind the passenger side valve cover. Easy enough to replace own your own if you have tools and patience (it's a tight squeeze to get to some of the fasteners). Here's a good page to look at for reference: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00062.html
    Bad solder was the source of the resistor failure on my TC as well. Airtex should improve the product! The driver's window switch module (Airtex) failed on my car last year too!
  • thanks for the feedback, as i've tried to isolate the noise it almost seems as if happens during the rotation of the wheels if that makes any sense at all, but strangely enough when i let off the gas it goes away, then when i hit the gas again the noise comes back but seems to screech at the same time of one revolution of the wheels? gosh im so damn bad at car repairs/diagnosis and im sorry for the vague information given. i'll attempt to grease or lube the pulleys like you suggested even though it doesnt make the noise while idling, only upon accelerating, guy at work said maybe CV joints or something to do with the tires. well i'll keep trying, thanks again for any help you guys can provide

    charlie
  • Have the joints checked.It can't hurt and might keep your tires from falling off!So to speak.Is your E BRAKE off??
  • simbashaesimbashae Posts: 1
    Evaporative emmission System Leak detected a sm leak.. What exactly is this ??/ I have a 1999 Lincoln Town Car......
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 161
    This is part of the fuel system. The fuel tank evaporative emission system allows for controlled release of fuel tank pressure through the evaporative emissions canister. The canister is located on the driver's side of the car near the front of the engine. You have to get under the car to see it. There is a canister, hoses attached to the canister, and valves. First, check your gas tank cap. You may need a new one. Then check the hose connections to the canister and make sure that they are tight. Look for cracks along the hoses attached to the canister. If the hoses are cracked, replace them.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 161
    Is this a chirping sound that you are hearing when accelerating and then when you are coasting, you don't hear it?
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    Hello i have no power to my windows,door locks and moonroof. check the fuses they are good i here a click when i hit the door locks but nothing happens. Could it be my power window box but if so why won't my moonroof work. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. :confuse:
  • I had this problem in my 94.It turned out to be a bad power moon roof switch or wire up there.It would be that everything worked but then from time to time everything stopped working for a while,then it would work again.I brought it to Ford and they found it very quickly.
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    my a/c is all charged and no leaks but it will run for maybe 15 minutes and just quits. the compressor is off and i dont know what is telling it to turn off. it cools great when it is running. i wait a litle while and it will work for a while.thanks for any ideas.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,345
    "what is telling it to turn off."

    Perhaps the interior temp has reached the setting temp on the unit. When the unit is set for 72 and the interior warmth reaches 72, the unit shuts off.
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    no it does not reach the set temp. bad sensor?
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    Fuse is good head lights work but no park or tail lights :sick:
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    Fuse is good head lights work but no park or tail lights On a 99 Lincoln :sick:
  • Two weeks ago my 2003 Town Car wouldn't start. I ended up having it towed to an indpendent garage. They had the car for about a week. Then ended up replacing the starter and battery. Now the car won't start again. Anyone else have any similar problems?
  • If it's cranking but not starting it could be the crank sensor.If you're getting nothing at all,maybe the fuel pump.
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Posts: 29
    Every once in awhile as I am backing out of driveway I see the overhead indicator saying "Park Assist Disabled." I have looked in the manual and it says that if it is turned off it will default to "on" again the next time the car is started, but it doesn't. Anyone know why or have a suggestion? :confuse:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,345
    Sometimes when you disconnect the Negative battery cable for a few minutes. The electrics resort to default settings. Minor adjustments after connecting the battery is resetting the radio stations and air conditioning controls. The memory in the computer dash may go back to Zero as well. Good Luck.
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Posts: 29
    Nothing has been disconnected. It just started doing this spontaneously. And, if its supposed to revert to "engaged" each time the engine is restarted and shifted into Reverse but doesn't, why?
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