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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,333
    Six months ago I bought a certified '11 MKS ecoboost. I wanted to sell either my 95 T Bird or our 94 Sig. I sold the T Bird because the instrument cluster still works on the Lincoln. ;)
  • I'm still driving mine and the trunk motor went out. A new one is $150. And most junk yards don't have used ones. If your latch is in the up position so your trunk lid is raised up but locked I worked a cheap fix that I'd like to share with everyone and it's very easy to do. You'll need a 7/16 socket or wrench, a phillips screwdriver and a 15T and 25T torex male socket to remove screws. Locate the two round plastic interior covering holders about 12" on either side and 6' down from the trunk latch. Pull out and remove to get access to the motor unit. Disconnect wire on your right from motor and undo three mounting bolts on on your left with the 7/16 socket and remove unit. Remove butterfly switch by inserting 15T torex into screw head and pull up switch to remove. You will not need to put this back. Use the phillips head to remove the two small screws at the top of the plastic housing. You will not need to replace them. Use the 25T to remove the two screws securing the metal plate that holds the motor assembly to the housing. You will not need to replace the motor. Pull out the motor and attached gear from the housing. Remove the latch from the upper plastic housing track behind the latch so you can turn the latch clockwise down most of the way into the housing. You can see thru the bottom of the housing to guide you. Then put latch into the upper housing guide and replace the metal plate and secure the unit to the trunk with the three bolt screws and 7/16 socket. Check to make sure it locks without slamming and the position of the lid is down far enough. It worked for me the first time. Now it works like a regular trunk. And I saved a $150. :)
  • rdavidadamsrdavidadams Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    Car started to slow down, more gas pedal did not help, acted like no power and coughed and just kept going slower. Let it sit for several hours and it would go for about 1 3/4 hours. Town car with 5.0L 101,000 miles.
    Found plugged cat convert and replaced, no codes, same problem
    Replaced electronic ignition, pickup, rotor, cap, plugs and wires, (due for a tune up anyway), still same problem
    Replaced MAP sensor, has new fuel filter and pump already, pressure good. Now instead of no power at about and 1 1/2 hours of driving at 75 mph, it just shuts off. Shut off key then on and it starts right away and I can drive about a mile at 55 then it stops. At 65 I can go about 5 to 6 miles before it shuts down and it starts right up again. Heres the kicker at 70mph it runs and does not stop, about every 5 or 6 miles it has a hesitation but keeps going, at 75 miles an hour is stops every 5 or 6 miles again.
    Every mechanic gives me an idea they think is wrong and all i have done so far is change the problem and still cant drive more than 1 1/2 hours with out problems. Any ides on this? Thanks!
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Posts: 159
    Bad injector/injectors...?
  • I don't think it's fuel injectors but you could add a can of cleaner to the gas. The cheap- do you have a good ground connection? If the fuel pump is electric. Are you using cruise control when this happens? Try without. Check for any vacuum leaks. The expensive- replace computer. Keep us posted.
  • Checked ok,Car runs perfect for 5 to 6 miles, then dies but starts right up again with no problems. They would have to all fail at same time and return to normal immeadiatley. I have wondered about the fuel pressure regulator. Not replaced it yet.
  • Gas cleaner made no difference. Fuewl pump is new and electric, with new fuel filter as well. Does this with or without Cruise control. Ground connection I assumed was good, but going to go and check, clean and test that today. Just never thought of that. Cant find any vacuum leaks. It runs perfect for 5 to 6 miles or longer at 70 mph. ( at 70 it runs without stopping but it hiccups about every 5 to 6 miles) However at 75 the car stops every 5 to 6 miles again. I am looking at the computer and checking pricing etc. Just trying to eliminate everything else first.
  • bartbarterbartbarter Posts: 39
    When you say ignition, you have changed the module?
  • new module, new sensors, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, MAP, Cat Converts,
  • bartbarterbartbarter Posts: 39
    Wish I could help. For 80s Panthers I would go to grandmarq.net.
  • 99salty99salty Posts: 6
    Steps to take before changing O2 sensor?
  • The same phenomenon was happening to another to a different Ford model I owned. After changing all of the emissions you mentioned, it turned out the Fuel Pump was overheating on hot days and shutting down. Purchasing aftermarket fuel pumps was a waste of money and further confused the situation. Mechanics insisting it had to be OEM, I went to the junkyard and pulled a Ford fuel pump from a junker.... Shazam... the car has been working perfectly on the hottest of days!
  • New here so any help would be much appreciated. Have a 2003 Lincoln TC that every once in awhile, the dash lights go out. They flicker on & off and if I hit the dash, they will pop back on. Its all the lights on the extreme left side of the panel, so I lose my odometer, digital speedometer etc. Has nothing to do with rain since it happens with or without it. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  • I had a similar issue years ago and it turned out to be the actual light switch.Replaced it and all was good.
  • The light switch? Or the light control module?
  • Did greasing the door switches solve the anti theft alarm problem?
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