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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • I have a large fleet of Ford products (Mostly '97 to '03 E Series vans), and I own a 99 TC Cartier.
    Over time we have had blower motor problems with this fleet where the rotary switch would wear out (obviously not equipped with ATC), the connection plug at that switch would o/heat melt the plug end allowing the blade connector to expand from the heat and disconnect.With the molded plug end melted it could not hold the blade in contact with its mating part. Disconnection.
    BSCMs that have thin wire coils to produce the various speeds of the blower motor, can have that crimp between that thin wire and the base connector develop some fine corrosion build up. It may be hard to see yet that wire is loose at the crimp.
    I've seen this more so in 80's - 90's AC equipped Chrysler Products where the loose connection would even spark/glow causing more heat than it was designed to withstand.
    Upon replacement of any/all electric switches or connections involved with our Ford Heat-AC Systems, we use dielectric grease during reassembly.
    Hope this helps.
  • Thank you for the info. I will be sure to check this out and see if either of those might be the problem.
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    does anybody have an answer to this problem. when i let off of the gas the car seems to want to go to the left and when i step on the gas it will go to the right. it does this at any speed above about 40. I have just replace the air ride in the rear with new coils and shocks and that didnt help. ty
  • I believe you may have worn/failed Rt Rear rear lower control arm bushings, or worse - broken Rt Rear control arm anchor brackets. :sick:
    This condition is allowing your rear end to WALK forward on the Rt side under load and back (off load) in the 2 steer directions.
    Your car in essence is steering itself with the rear wheels.
    Have all these bushings (RT & LT - if they are the culprit) replaced.
    If the brackets have failed or are broken, have them repaired but inspect the LT side too .........
    Good Luck.
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    thank you for the information i will be checking it and will let you knnow how i make out. i will be gone about a week so it will take me some time to check it and again thank you.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    the CEL goes off and on while at highway speeds. It is a '94 Town Car, 145000 miles and runs great otherwise. What could be causing this?
  • tcb74tcb74 Posts: 7
    My 1984 town car did not pass the California emission test. To high on nox only at the highest speed measured passed everything else.
    I replaced the tps sensor(was bad) and o2 sensor. Can the bad tps cause it to fail alone?.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    Many Ford cars with that engine did not pass emmision testing when they were brand new. I put so much money into the emmission controls on a Lincoln that I bought during that era that the car should have been making oxygen. After spending at least a grand on the car and it would not pass, I took it to the Department of Motor Vehicles to get a waiver. That is when they told me that they hated dealing with that engine. They could not even get their own cars to pass emission inspection. The TPS, more that likely had nothing to do with it not passing. Your inspector simply may not have had the RPMs at the right speed to make the car pass. To get this engine to pass the following items need to be right: Clean air filter, weight of oil, grade of gas (they like Exxon and BP Premium), clean calalytic converters, hot spark plug, right on the money timining, new oxygen sensors, new PCV, and a can of gas system cleaner. If you do all the work at one time, drive the the car around at highway speeds for a couple of days before you take it in for inspection.
  • can you have an oil leak at the pressure switch and where is it located. i have a 1998 lincoln town car. help.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    The oil pressure sensor is located below the oil filter. It can leak; however, check the filter to make sure that it is tight enough and also there is a gasket between the engine block and filter housing. I have had more problems with this gasket leaking than with the oil pressure sensors and oil filters.
  • petanpetan Posts: 1
    I have 1992 Lincoln Town Car with about 200k. Worked good, but suddenly transmission started hesitating when driving constant speed (at 60mph)- gears everything (1st to 4th)!\r\nI can't also engage park brake in neutral.
    The diagnosis says 522 - open circuit manual lever position sensor.
    Where it is located and could I anyhow check if it is working good or the problem would be only wires?
  • I have worked 2 weekends on my father's 99 TC. Found that when the traction assist is turned off, it runs fine. Found that he had the wrong size tires on the car.
  • We bought a 2006 Town Car about 2 months ago and are having the same problem. Ford dealer said the car had warped rotors and "fixed" the problem. After that I crashed into another car because my car kept lurching as i was braking. My husband also had the same problem and narrowly missed hitting 2 people. Lincoln dealer cannot find a problem. Did you find out what was wrong with your car? I read in the forum that someone with the same problem was told it could be the throttle air control but I can no longer find that posting.,
    Does anyone have any other ideas?
  • 0rnery0rnery Posts: 23
    My '94 Town Car started idling rough and even stalling on occasion. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor wires. After starting it back up, it was idling just as rough. This morning, after a cold start, it was still idling rough. Just for the hell of it, I disconnected the MAF sensor, and it smoothed out. Connected it again and it became rough. Disconnected, smooth... ????

    Drove it 7 miles to work without a hitch. Ran great, as a matter of fact. Coming home, I noticed it was perfect from a cold start. Used to be a bit sluggish when cold.

    I'm assuming I can eliminate plugs, wires, injectors etc. as the problem. Is it a given that the MAF Sensor is no good? Could it be triggering another bad component, like the Idle Air Control, or EGR valve? What am I risking by running it as is, with the MAF Sensor disconnected? I really can't afford to just throw parts at it.

  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    I understand that great care is to be used in cleaning the wires of the MAF for they are rather tender. If in the process of cleaning, they were damaged, perhaps a new MAF sensor is in your future. I agree that you have ruled out other ignition parts and wonder what is at risk if you drive without the MAF sensor connected?

    How many miles on your engine?
  • 0rnery0rnery Posts: 23
    Like I said, I can't afford to just throw parts at this. Just got done reading the story of a fellow with the exact same problem. He replaced his MAF Sensor ($75.00) with no improvement. Also, read about the cleaning procedure, and Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM). Moved on to vacuum leak detection. I'll try and track down leaks in the morning. Won't cost me anything but time. The leak detection source mentioned a stuck EGR valve ($50.00) being a culprit. I'm also worried about the Idle Air Control Valve ($75.00). I've got an old one on my bench, and am unable to "unstick" it.

    I used spray carb cleaner liberally on the wires. I suppose I should have used the "Tuner Cleaner" instead.

    This car only has 125,000 miles on it, but our Northeastern Ohio winters are taking a toll rust-wise. With such a short commute, I can afford to take a hit on gas mileage, but I'd hate to hurt the engine due to a rich mixture, or similar damage.

    If I figure this out, I promise to post the answer. Thanks loads for the super prompt reply.
  • 0rnery0rnery Posts: 23
    A couple hours, and a couple bloody knuckles later, it seems to be back to normal. Pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and noticed the connector may not have been attached. Its socket is damaged and unable to clip tight. Not 100% sure it was connected at all, because it fell free of the IAC as I removed it.

    Cleaned it and used needle nosed pliers to work the shaft up and down freely, however the valve doesn't seat in the default state. It's about .05" open, but has free movement to seat. Applying 12VDC in one polarity merely shorts, and the other way hums, but doesn't move. The IAC I have on my bench is a different style, but will hum with either polarity, yet not move up or down. Obviously, I don't know what kind of voltage this thing operates with.

    After a struggle of an installation the car started and idled OK. Not super smooth, but OK. Disconnecting the MAF Sensor didn't affect it. Seemed a little "lumpy" while pulling out of the drive, and a bit sluggish once on the road, but smoothed out nicely after the first stop. Idled fine, and accelerated great. Every stop after that was a nice idle. I suppose I should relearn the idle. Hope to be done with it otherwise...
  • Was your problem lurching (accelerating) while braking? That was our problem.
  • 0rnery0rnery Posts: 23
    #918 of 922 Disconnected MAF Sensor, Runs Like A Top... WTF? by 0rnery, Jan 15, 2010 (6:50 pm)

    If my car accelerated while braking, I'd get that solved like immediately! Is your brake booster leaking?
  • I don't know what a brake booster is so I don't know if it was leaking. Lincoln mechanics could not find anything wrong with the car.
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