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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Posts: 18
    Thank you so much!!! We will have it checked immediately!! April :)
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Posts: 654
    I have a 1990 Lincoln TC. It has the 5.0 engine. Isn't it the same engine they used in the Mustangs. The reason I ask is that will the same modifications you make on the Mustangs hold true for my TC? I am sure other 1990 TC owners can relate I would like more power. Would supercharging be an answer what about the costs involved on a S/C?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    Understand your frustration at needing more power. Out '82 with your engine was always developing my patience. Yes, the Mustang has the same 302 engine, but the EEC is different depending on the year of the Stang. My suggestion is:

    Apply any monies you would spend on your TC and move up to a '93 or later TC.
    The OHC engine will be a big improvement, but IMO the TC still needs a 300 hp engine. :)
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Posts: 18
    My husband is showing your advice to his mechanic to check the switches out.
    Prior to receiving your advice I called the Customer Service Number at LincMerc
    listed in our manual. She took info down to put it their records but could not help me because there was never a recall on the factory built alarm. I asked where the alarm was located, how can I turn it off, etc. she could not help me; suggested a Dealer. I called 2 LM dealer's:
    Response 1 - His mechanics would not know how to fix a 97.
    Response 2 - The alarm can not be disabled because it is factory installed. I could bring the car there, leave it, if the alarm goes off, they could see what was happening. If it doesn't go off - they can't help us.
    Your advice was the only logical advice we received. This does not give me a comforting feeling about the LM Customer Care Service or the Dealers.
    Our mechanic is going to check out the door switches.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    LM customer service is not known for being particularly helpful with mechanical problems. That's what your service manager is for. I wish you luck with this.
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Posts: 18
    Thanks! I should have been clearer - when I spoke to the LM Dealer I actually spoke to the Service Manager at two Dealers. One said his mechanics would not know how to fix a 97 car and the other suggested I leave the car with them to see if the alarm would go off. Murphy's law, it won't go off. We did that when it first happened - left it at Auto Lines for 1 week! It never went off.
    We had a computer diagnostic test done today at Auto Zone about the Engine Light being on frequently, the technician said the EGR Valve has excessive flow.
    Our mechanic is going to check out the valve, first to see if it has to be cleaned out before ordering a replacement. We are determined to fix the engine light problem and the door switches. We have an appointment for our busy mechanic to work these but have to wait a few weeks.
  • Why can't you just spray a bunch of WD-40 on and into the switches yourself?
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Posts: 18
    If I am understanding this correctly, the door panels have to be taken off to spray the switches....(I really know very little about the technical stuff but am trying to learn to be a part of the solution). I will check the manual to see if the door switches are discussed. :confuse:
  • My 93 TC is leaking coolant from the heater hose connection underneath the intake manifold midway between the front and back of the engine where a crimped connection connects a 6" piece of heater hose (which connects to a nipple near the front of the engine) to a metal tube running to the back of the engine. I thought it would be possible to disconnect the hose from the front of the engine and remove some nuts at the rear of the engine to remove the whole assembly. However, there is very little room to work. The dealer says the intake manifold has to be removed. So, they are saying it will cost $600, maybe more, to replace this piece 50 cent piece of rubber hose. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking about getting a 98 TC but won't if this design is the same. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • I had a problem with my 93 last year where it would just crank. The mechanic I brought it to replaced the electronic fuel pump but I got stuck a day later. The culprit-- Bad ground. Check your negative ground cable connector at the battery. replace connector before anything else.
  • Have you flushed the system? If there is no error code (there is a sensor that can go bad) maybe an adjustment is necessary.
  • I had a similar problem. Before I replaced the fuel pump I would replace your ground cable/connection at the battery. If the car runs well after starting the fuel pump is working. It needs a good ground to start the car. When you turn on the ignition listen for the hiss from the fuel pump before cranking. If you don't hear that hiss, you most likely don't have a ground. This is an intermitant problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    "Why can't you just spray a bunch of WD-40 on and into the switches yourself?"

    It's a good thought, scooter - I tried that on my Navigator, but it didn't help. So evidently, something must be removed to get the oil to the switch as April says.
  • I just recently purchased a 1990 lincoln town car and changed the plugs, air filter. oil and oil filter also added some fuel injector cleaner. Ever since then the car studders while driving under 40mph. Does anyone have any ideas? Please!
  • How did it run before you messed with it?
  • it didnt studder at all before messing with it
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Assuming you didn't pull off vacuum hoses, etc. by mistake during your work (check that), the only thing you did that should cause that would be the plugs. Did you set the gap, make sure the boots were intact and put on some dielectric grease (on the plug tip, now on yourself)? Most problems I've had like that relate to pulling off the boots and having the wire and the end connector come apart without me knowing it. Then the plug doesn't fire and I don't know why. I've had good luck with those cheap-o wire testers that you hold against the wire with the engine running and it blinks every time the plug fires. If its not firing, the light doesn't blink.

    If the shudder is due to misfire, it may be happening above 40 but you can't feel it with the V8 at high rpm's.

    My dad taught me early on that if you have a lot of stuff to replace on a good running car, replace the items one at a time, then run it so that if you did effect something negatively, you can isolate your search to that item.

    Good luck.
  • For Your Info:
    LM Customer Service gave the following info to get schematics for our car:

    I called Helm Inc .1-800-782-4356..their website is
    They carry service publications for many cars (Chevrolet, Jaguars, Pontiacs, Olsdmobile, Cadillac ,Buick and others.......I ordered an ELECTRICAL AND VACUUM TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL for the 1997 Lincoln Town Car. It cost $30.00 plus 6.95 for shipping and handling. In the manual, the "component schematic" for the car, shows the door switches are located behind the door panels. We will loan this manual to our mechanic to assist him....maybe we can solve this problem with the anti theft alarm and the check engine light, finally!!! We will keep the manual with our car. Hope this info helps someone else. :)
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    Beernut offers good advice, particularly his fathers, but now that you are still fixing, I would replace all of the plug wires, carefully, one by one. I have two 302 engines like yours and have always replaced the wires when replacing the plugs. When the 94 TC misfired, replacing the wires solved that too. Good Luck. :)
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I agree - change the wires, I'll bet it fixed your problem. While you're at it, change the Distributor Cap.
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