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Got a Quick, Technical Question?

Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
This topic is for those of you who have a quick technical question which doesn't require an entire topic of its own, e.g., what does the code P112 mean on a scan of a 1995 ______?

We are trying to avoid ONE QUESTION TOPICS---so if you can't find an existing topic that your question fits into, from the "View All Discussions" List on this board, then ask it here and your Host will either answer it, invite a technician to answer it, or direct you to the proper topic with a link.

Okay? Okay!

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Comments

  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Cool!!
    Hopefully we can keep ahead of the posts. LOL!!
    I like the idea.
    Thanks!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like a good format.
  • I'm not sure where I should post this, so hopefully your new topic will help! I have a 2003 Acura MDX with 7,800 miles. About 3 weeks ago, my check engine light came on, and Acura said it was indicating a problem with the cat, they reset the light, and said to call to order the part if the light comes on again. It did 2 days later, and they just replaced the entire catalytic converter last week. Yesterday the light came on AGAIN. I'm really nervous that my car is a lemon - does anyone have thoughts as to what I should do at this point? (PS - I own this car, not a lease...) Thanks!
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    a contradiction/oxymoron like "honest politician"?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    First of all , get "lemon" out of your head. This is one defect on the car, and possibly a mis-diagnosis, which is hardly the car's fault.

    To answer your question, we'd almost have to be inside the technician's head for a minute. What codes did he pull up with the scan to indicate replacement of th catalytic? Did he perhaps cure the symptom and not the disease, that is, some other problem caused the catalytic to burp pretty badly?

    I think you just have to give the dealer another try and also assume that you have a 99.9% good car with a .01% problem. Hardly a "lemon" at this point in time.

    If you get into "lemon-head", you will get sour on the vehicle and every little thread out of place will annoy you.

    So I'd say stay positive and give the dealer another chance.

    We also have a HUGE on-going MDX topic, and you may wish to drop in there and pose this question, to see if other owners went throught the same thing and how their problem was solved.

    The link is:

    Acura MDX Topic

    good luck with it,

    Host

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks for your help. I guess I just get nervous with any kind of problems/issues with a new car b/c I had a REALLY bad experience with a car when I was younger (they "forgot" the temp gauge and the car overheated which caused nearly everything in the engine to break/wear out one piece at a time). I'll take your advice and take a breath, give the dealer a shot, and see if this problem goes away. I'll check into the MDX forum as well.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    Okay, keep in touch with us about it and let us know how you are doing! Feedback helps everybody!

    Host

    MODERATOR

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    requires ATF +4 transmission fluid. The dealership wants $9 a quart, and I like to do my own maintenance. I've looked around, but can't find the stuff at Wal-Mart or Pep Boys - any ideas?
  • Hello, I have a 1997 Saturn L-Series 4 door, 4 Cyl. Car that won't start. I replaced my spark plugs and there was somr oil around them. I ran a diagnonstic and the error message that came up was: Cam Shaft Sensor Error, Bank One. Does anyone know what that means and what the problem might me? Any information would be extremely helpful. Thank you :)
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    I have a '93 Tercel that has a terrible window fogging problem. If it's even the least bit chilly out, I have to run the defroster full blast just to keep the windows clear enough to drive. This doesn't even keep them completely clear. The car doesn't have A/C so there's no drying effect added to the defroster. I'm just wondering if anyone else has this issue with their vehicle, and if so, have you been able to find out what causes this problem, and what can be done to make it better. This is very annoying.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    book says:

    "Only fluids of the type labeled Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Type 9602 should be used"

    Unless you find this exact type, you had better buy it from the dealer, as any other fluid will probably harm your transmission in the long run.

    Personally I can't see the value of saving maybe $15 on 4 quarts of fluid (8.6 with torque converter drained) and buying questionable fluid, or even the RIGHT fluid, but having to drive around all day to find it.

    I'd just pony up at the dealer and sleep well at night.

    MODERATOR

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    'cause my kid works at a private shop....I really want to change ALL the fluid - please read on.

    Now here's another question - I don't have the equipment to flush the transmission, like some shops do, so is there a way to get all of the fluid out?

    It's easy enough to drop the pan, change the filter and refill, but that always seem stupid to me, since you're leaving 4-8 quarts of contaminated fluid in the transmission. You're only making it a little better, it seems.

    I know it sounds weird, because I'm a hard-core car guy, but I've only owned three automatic transmission vehicles in my LIFE!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    #1 of 2 1997 Saturn, please help, error message: Cam Shaft Sensor Error by jz060702 Dec 29, 2003 (2:01 pm)

    Hello, I have a 1997 Saturn L-Series 4 door, 4 Cyl. Car that won't start. I replaced my spark plugs and there was somr oil around them. I ran a diagnonstic and the error message that came up was: Cam Shaft Sensor Error, Bank One. Does anyone know what that means and what the problem might me? Any information would be extremely helpful. Thank you :)

    MODERATOR

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    in the cam position sensor, possibly a leaking cam seal causing it - both are worth a look.
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Good possibility, but would need the trouble code numbers to check the flow charts on that vehicle. I am too lazy to look up every trouble code number to see which one that is.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    because I edited my post and it was probably already read through:

    Now here's another question - I don't have the equipment to flush the transmission, like some shops do, so is there a way to get all of the fluid out?

    It's easy enough to drop the pan, change the filter and refill, but that always seem stupid to me, since you're leaving 4-8 quarts of contaminated fluid in the transmission. You're only making it a little better, it seems.

    I know it sounds weird, because I'm a hard-core car guy, but I've only owned three automatic transmission vehicles in my LIFE!
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    No responses to post #10?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Window fogging is usually caused by high humidity in the vehicle. First thing I'd check is for any dampness around/below the heater core, which would indicate a core leak.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    R&R the pan and filter, refill, bring to operating temp. Shut engine off and disconnect the cooler return line at the transaxle, usually the upper on rad. Connect a hose to the cooler line and route into a suitable container. Start the engine, leave in Park, and add fluid at the same rate it's being pumped out until cooler discharge is fresh fluid. Cooler circuit flow rate is usually around 1 litre/20 seconds. Shut engine off, reconnect cooler line, and adjust fluid level as required.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    Oh,man, I'm getting tired just thinking about doing that. What if you just changed the fluid 2 or 3 quick times in a row, say on three different days. That would "sort of" do it, wouldn't it?

    MODERATOR

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    you could get 95% of it - it's the residual metal shavings and such that I'm worried about.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Actually, it's faster and easier to disconnect the cooler return line and let the engine and trans oil pump do the work after the pan's been dropped once.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Saturn engines don't have a camshaft position sensor. Camshaft position is picked up from #4 cylinder via the ignition module. A misfire on #4 cylinder will set the cam sensor code. Usually indicates it's due for new plugs and wires. Use OEM Delco if you want it to run right.

    Oil around the plugs, the owner didn't say whether it's an SL1 single cam or SL2 double cam engine. If SL2, it needs a valve cover gasket.

    If still extended crank or no start after plugs and wires, check fuel pressure. Should be 38-44 psi and hold there after key off.

    Another possibility re a no-start is a jumped timing chain caused by the nylon shoe falling apart on the chain guide. If so, the exhaust valves are dinked and the head has to come off. There's usually lots of warning in the form of a rattle out of the front of the engine for a while before the chain jumps.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    It just freaks me out to be running the pump with fluid going out one side and hopefully coming in the other. What if you don't keep up for a minute there?

    MODERATOR

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    There'll be enough fluid left in the pump to provide gear or vane lubrication until the next bottle's poured in. I start with enough opened and handy to maintain the fluid level as it's being pumped out, and it's pretty easy to see the pump-out rate if the discharge is into something like clear 2 litre soda bottles (handy to have an assistant there to switch the discharge between bottles). Also, with the engine and trans warmed up, engine idle speed will be where it needs to be.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    after you've dropped the pan and changed the filter, but before you add the rest of the fluid - swap it out on a one-for-one basis using the cooler line as a dump?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    Okay! I'm convinced! Thanks for the details.

    MODERATOR

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    and it can be a filthy, nasty job!
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    under the car, the car on ramps, and an assistant?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    I find that paying someone to do it while I have coffee is pretty stressless. I mean, every 30K or so, this is a reasonable expense.

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