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Got a Quick, Technical Question?

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  • vet5vet5 Posts: 9
    I have a 2003 Lesabre w/13,000 miles on it. The cruise control will hold for 45 minutes or so, then drop off 3 MPH or so and hold at the new, slower speed. Does not happen every time. Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    It's under warranty at 13K. Let the dealer diagnose the problem.
    There's a Buick discussion and a couple of Bonneville discussions here.
  • vet5vet5 Posts: 9
    Obviously.....that is where I'm headed. Was just looking for opinions beforehand. Thanks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Sometimes the tach used in the instrument cluster has a jumper option for 4cyl or 6cyl. I have seen where the jumper would be loose, or just not making good contact, and the tach would get really flakey, falling to below 0 or jumping to 4000rpm on idle.

    One thing that sometimes will prove this is to firmly hit the dash above the tach with you hand and watch for the malfunction.

    Saw this on a 79 Olds Calais and drove folks nuts until the problem was found. Soldered the jumper down and the problem never came back.
  • mjmarketmjmarket Posts: 3
    My 1998 SL2 has a loud spring {twang} noise comming from the rear of the car . I looked up all the SB and it seems that the strut springs rotate and make contact and rub . I turned the springs put teflon spacers between them and they still make noise when I go over a bump. The only time it stops is when it rains.Could it be a sway bar or something else?? Mike
  • Hi, I really don't drive very often and I find my battery always dying after not driving for a while, I was wondering if there was any device or some way to prevent this from happening?
  • 37453745 Posts: 152
    You say the noise stops when it rains? Many years ago we used to spray brake fluid on all under car rubber bushes and fittings to lubricate them and stop them from squeaking. Maybe a few shots of brake fluid from a squeeze bottle with a nozzle will help? Take care not to get the brake fluid on your car body paint though.
  • wayshwingwayshwing Posts: 1
    Whenever I start my Trooper, there is a LOUD squealing noise, just like a slipping belt, somewhere in the engine, for about 15-20 seconds. The it goes away.
    I've been told that its the timing belt, but I'm not sure.
    Anyone else have this experience?

    glaroya@yahoo.com
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If your car's parked outside, there are solar powered trickle chargers available which sit on the dash and plug into the cigarette lighter socket.
  • mjmarketmjmarket Posts: 3
    Thanks I'll try it Mike
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Which engine? Serpentine belt or multiple V belts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    nah, timing belts only slip once and then you're done!

    Could be drive belts or idler pulley or bad alternator bearing.

    One quick thing you can do is spray just a little WD-40 on the belts before you start it up cold and see (hear) what happens. Or even rub a bar of soap on the belts inner side, with the engine off of course--LOL!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ashongashong Posts: 1
    I have 1978 Mercedes Benz the motor still runs when I shut off the engine. Could you please tell what the problem might be.
    Thanks
  • Any idea why I am experiencing excessive wear on front wheel bearings ? I have gone through 3 sets of wheel bearings (hub assembly) since my car reached 100k and they are averaging 4-5k of life per replacement. Front end parts seem to be fine, I've also replaced all brake parts as process of elimination i.e. calipers, rotors, pads, even replaced rims and tires after first two hub assy set replacement so there seems to be nothing left to attribute the premature expiration to. I dont drive that hard on them so that should'nt be an issue. The only thing I can figure is perhaps the hub assy I am purchasing at a local discount auto store (rhymes with "worries") are poor quality and arent lasting as long as OEM's might. The "specialist" at the store assures me that they have received no reports of others having problems with them and there have been no recalls on the part but I'm growing weary of returing them (under warranty) and having to keep replacing them. I get the feeling they think I'm doing something fishy to cause them to wear down with only 5000 miles on them and I'm getting the cold shoulder with each return visit. Please help !!!!
  • sell93glesell93gle Posts: 1
    I have a 93 nissan altima gle . i,m replacing pos& neg batt cables,the pos cable is all wrapped up with the whole harness . does anyone have a harness kit?
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Posts: 105
    i have replaced the hub bearings on my ford.i believe i purchased them from the same chain as you did.i have had no problems.i am wondering if you are properly tightening the hub nut to specs with a torque wrench.
  • 37453745 Posts: 152
    The only thing left that might be causing excessive wear of the hub bearings could be rims that are not putting the weight of the car directly under the bearing. A situation like this can be caused by spacers fitted between the hub and rim or, replacement rims that are offset with reference to the OEM rims. Make sure your replacement rims have the same depth as the OEM rims measured from the inside of the rim to the mounting surface that goes onto the hub.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Is this Benz a diesel or gas engine?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Thanks guys, I will pay closer attention to the torque applied this time but almost certain it was correct ... excuse my ignorance but how would incorrect torque cause them to fail prematurely ?

    ... the rims I spoke of, ARE IN FACT OEM's ... replaced them with identical factory insatlled originals and since the problems occurred before replacement (twice) and continue after they were installed, I'm pretty confident this isn't the problem ... where do I send the gratuitous pizza and beer for all of the money you guys have saved me in the past? I'm about to buy a 95 Cutlass Supreme Convertible so Im sure I will be asking for more help when the needs arise.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    have a great holiday!
  • holenone79holenone79 Posts: 20
    I hear a high pitched whine when accelerating from a stop. It is an automatic. Is this normal in the civics with a vtec engine, because my daughters lx does not have this. Both cars are 2004's. Has anybody else experienced this?
  • edle777edle777 Posts: 19
    Hello, I entered this in the Corolla forum but got no responses.

    What's the typical life of an alternator belt? I needed mine replaced due to severe cracking. The car is 5 yrs old and only has about 34K miles on it.

    Should an alternator belt typically last longer than this???
  • leesunleesun Posts: 1
    My son is contemplating purchase of a 1989 Ford Mustang LX with a L4-140 2.3L SOHC engine as his first car.

    The owner, over the past year, replaced the water-pump, thermostat, hoses, belts and had a new core put in the radiator. The engine now has a blown head gasket, so I am thinking this could be a good project for he and I to work on together. I have reasonably good mechanical skills and have the tools we'll need, I think.

    My questions are:

    Is this a project we can do by ourselves in our home's garage, or does it require specific tools and equipment that we're not likely to have?

    My assumption is that when we remove the head, we should take it to a head-shop for checking, have it resurfaced, and if necessary, have the
    valves ground, etc. Are there any other things we should be aware of?

    What should we expect to pay for new gasket kits, bolts, etc. from an after-market parts store like Checker, AutoZone, etc.?

    Is there a good place to get these materials by mail-order or online source that has really good prices?

    I've also heard that these engines are prone to blowing head gaskets. Is that true? If so, what is the cause, and is there a fix for this?

    Is there anything else we should check while into this project? Like, change engine oil and filter in case any coolant got into the crankcase when the gasket blew, or any other things not mentioned
    above?

    Thanks for any advice and suggestions you can provide.

    Lee
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,596
    It depends on lots of things, weather, miles, age. I would say that's not unusual. I've had to replace belts every year before due to the severe cold here in Alaska. I've replaced a belt only to have it break a week later. We just recently replaced the belt on my husband's truck, its 5 years old and had 15k on it, but the belt was in bad need of replacement. Belts are a minor part of car maintanace, I wouldn't worry about it. It doesn't signal a problem with your car, its just a belt.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    because you are going to have to pull the crankshaft bearings and gage the crank to see if you have major engine damage. yup, the water dilution of oil will kill an engine real quick by washing the lube out of the moving parts in the lower engine.

    I would be assuming that if you MUST have this car, that you are going to put a running junkyard engine into it. warning, if you don't match the engine model and year and application up exactly right, be sure you get the computer module that was on that engine with it. the modules are standard, the programming for each engine/transmission combo is specific.

    myself, hearing of a blown head gasket is enough to keep walking. sounds like the old owner is from the "throw enough parts at it, and eventually you fix the issue," and he diddled around with overheating long enough so that the real cause -- leaky, then blown head gasket -- has had a real good shot at blowing the engine. put every possible part in EXCEPT a head gasket. guess we know why he's selling it.

    this thing's old enough anyway that it probably needs a ring job, so we're talking about having everything machined in a shop, full disassembly, get all new running parts inside the block (several hundred dollars or so) plus a new oil pump and screen Just Because You Can, a hundred bucks worth of gaskets, on and on. gut feeling is you're into $1000-1500 doing all your own labor, including the machine shop charges, on the engine alone. it might not be salvageable either, some used blocks just won't dress up before you exceed the maximum rebore specs.

    run, don't walk, away from this one. the mill is a doorstop.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    gates has always recommended replacing belts after 4 years. I'm sure it is purely a coincidence that gates makes good belts. IMHO that's valid for V-belts, and not necessarily so for serpentine belts. if you see chunking of more than two ribs next to each other anyplace on a belt, or chunks larger than a running inch in length, or fraying at the edges or on the back, it's time for a belt. a few little cracks in ribs helps 'em run cooler, but those will spread in time, so you have to inspect every season change or so.
  • mcrae127mcrae127 Posts: 1
    Recently my Cherokee has started to run erratically when in reverse to the point the vehicle has difficulty backing up. Once in drive it smooths out and runs fine until around 65 mph, at that point the engine starts missing. It will maintain speed but the miss continues unless I drop speed or go into passing gear. As time has gone on, it seems the speed at which this starts is getting slower. Has anyone experienced something similar and do they have suggestions as to what to do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    This is the kind of problem that can drive you crazy.

    Given that this happens in reverse, when there is no load on the engine particularly, I would suspect the fuel filter which I believe sits inside your Cherokee's gas tank.

    The only glitch that gives me doubts is that your car (you say) performs well in passing gear, which somewhat contradicts a fuel starvation problem.

    In a way, your symptoms don't quite make sense, but you should be the best person to report them accurately.

    Another suspicion I have is your engine's distributor.

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  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    which is load on the engine. I'd get on the soapbox and say ignition wires and/or plugs should be checked and replaced as needed here (like shotgun the things and be done with it.) you could try cleaning the road dust and spray off the wires and distributor cap first, but the HV stuff is my first suspect.

    there have been a load of posts about a year back about goo coming off the inside of jeep gas tanks gumming the fuel systems up from about that era, and it could mean replacement of the gas tank. so I can see where shifty is coming from. I'd still like to pull a couple plugs and look 'em over good myself, see how the wear is, and go from there.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Sure, plugs and wires are simple but I seem to recall that those Jeeps have this little "bow-tie" filter that attaches to the fuel pump, which is inside the gss tank.

    Reverse really shouldn't have much load on the engine, since a low gear doesn't strain the engine at all---like the lowest gear on a mountain bike is the easiest to pedal.

    so my reasoning was that ignition systems usually require a load to show up. There's really no reason why a plug should not fire in reverse gear but fire in first gear.

    Now a downshift into passing gear decreases the load on the engine/ignition but the higher revs should consume more fuel, which makes me wonder why the engine doesn't miss on downshifting.

    This contradiction in turn makes me suspect the distributor, which can act somewhat randomly.

    I've seen this kind of problem on the Jeep 6 cylinders, and they can be devils to diagnose, absolute devils!

    Hope you get lucky on this one.

    I'd go from "simple to complex". So plugs, wires, external fuel filter (not the gas tank one), maybe some very nasty injector cleaner (or done with a machine through the intake manifold) then to distributor (you can check it with a light and also check it for tightness and moisture), then maybe we have to drop the tank if none of the above works. And if THAT doesn' do it on top of all the other things, then you are in the Jeep Hell I spoke of, a Land of Mystery and Anguish. Let's not even talk about that, it's probably simpler than that!

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