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  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Duralene is made by United Oil Co. & been in business since the early 20's.

    Adding less than a pint of Castrol would be a no worry. If it is down less than 1/2 a quart, I would check the level after sitting all night to get a better reading.
  • I now own a toyota 98 corolla--clock radio and lighter are out. Looked under hood fusebox and seem like all fuses ok Is there another fusebox under dash? cant see it. What else could interrupt circuit? everything else working rbillieux
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918
    Yes there should be one at the driver's side lower kick panel and maybe another under the dash finish panel (under steering wheel area). The "book" is a little vague but definitely there are fuses in those areas. Cigarette lighter is #19. the radio might have an inline fuse.

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  • fixit16fixit16 Posts: 6

    2010 Malibu ignition key will not turn to off position. Dome light stays on, car does go all the way into park

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 20,384

    @fixit16 said:
    2010 Malibu ignition key will not turn to off position. Dome light stays on, car does go all the way into park

    This sounds a little like some problems with other cars where the ignition switch is not acting right. That's the swtich, not the ignition lock cylinder which is actually the key. Are you able to take the key out but the accessories seem to be staying on?

    If so, you will want to disconnect the negative lead of the battery because it may be draining your battery with the ignition and computers being ON. Then reconnect the negative (- or black) lead when you are going to drive it for service.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Help ......... My 1998 Trooper shuts itself off just like you turn off the key when you put it in drive or reverse, then proceed ten feet or more ! It does not shut its self off when in park or neutral and you gun the engine

    Its an auto / four wheel .... 1st mechanic put a new alternator in ... that was not the problem It has been with a 2nd mechanic for almost three weeks with no word on a solution

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918

    I'd take a long shot guess at the TCC --Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. Easy to test--unplug the solenoid at the transmission and if the symptoms go away---there you go.

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  • Thank you, Thank you, Thank you ........ We will try it tomorrow .... I will let you know !

  • Thanks Again Mr. Shift, But ....... No cigar .... :(
    Any other thoughts ........ :) All Comments are Welcome ... :)

  • nickimomnickimom Posts: 11

    i have a 2004 hyundai elantra gt. tried to get it to pass inspection. did some work.obd system readiness status of catalytic converter is not ready. I have driven 96 miles. how many miles does it take for catalytic converter monitor to be ready

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918

    It's not a matter of miles as much as drive cycles. Some of these cycles are rather complex. First thing I'd do is check your state smog laws. Some states allow cars 2001 and newer to pass smog if one register is not set. Another idea is that even if you're getting a P0420 code, you could have a bad after-cat 02 sensor.

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  • nickimomnickimom Posts: 11

    had codes. got them taken care of changed 02 sensors. now just waiting for obd system for catalytic converters to be ready. had 4 codes all cleared, no check engine light.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918

    You might try idling the car for 20 minutes, then driving around, then bring it in.

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  • nickimomnickimom Posts: 11
    edited July 2014

    that didn't do it,. went back to mechanic, he said drive it on my vacation. but....10 miles after leaving mechanic, check engine light came on... got it checked out at another place - catalytic converter. Guess it really needs replacement. Any idea of the cost.? 2004 Elantra GT.

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 21,661

    not sure of exactly which engine, but a quick look on RockAuto shows a bunch in the $150-$225 range. No clue about installation, but not normally that hard I don't think.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918

    I think replacement universal cats are in the $400 range but yours is part of the exhaust manifold I believe, so I'm not sure there. By all means shop around--if you are in California, or if it's a California spec car, then you'll pay considerably more. I think the part from Hyundai is like $1000.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918
    edited October 7
    Someone recently asked me about the danger of overfilling your engine oil and what can happen as a result--this is becoming more critical as some manufacturers have eliminated the dip stick.

    Here's one technicians take on OIL OVERFILL

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  • matt6565matt6565 Posts: 4
    edited November 16
    Recently bought a 2017 accord and noticed it would drift to the left. The mechanic said it was normal but I didn't think so. I pushed him until he rotated the two front tires. The car stopped drifting left but now started drifting right. The mechanic said this was normal because the roads cause all cars to drift. If I let go of the steering wheel, the car would pass over into the other lane in about 10-15 secs(40-50mph). Is this normal? Or should I keep pushing the mechanic?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 52,064
    edited November 16
    You could test drive another one on a familiar route and see if it drives the same way.

    Because of road camber, most cars will drift to the right. 10 seconds doesn't seem too extreme. Drifting to the left isn't normal.

    You could have a bad wheel or tire that needs replacing though. You may have to harp on the safety factor to get satisfaction. If you have another dealer you can get to, you could ask them for help.

    The bottom of this page has some useful info. (AGCO Auto)

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  • I feel at this point they will just say it's because of road camber. But I'll take your advice and bring it to another dealer. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918
    matt6565 said:

    I feel at this point they will just say it's because of road camber. But I'll take your advice and bring it to another dealer. Thanks.

    Unless your mechanic has done a precise wheel alignment, then he can't say with any certainty that things are normal.

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 3,771
    stever said:

    Because of road camber, most cars will drift to the right. 10 seconds doesn't seem too extreme. Drifting to the left isn't normal.

    Ten seconds would be within "normal" expectations. Depending on what someone had for their last car we have a whole new dynamic to consider. Some cars today have pull drift compensation designed into their electronic power steering systems and some do not. Here is an example of Ford's system. http://wardsauto.com/news-analysis/ford-s-electric-steering-enables-pull-drift-technology
    stever said:


    You could have a bad wheel or tire that needs replacing though.

    A tire lead is very likely since rotating the tires side to side resulted in the vehicle leading the other direction. Rotating the tires front to back, especially if done one side at a time might reveal which tire is rolling like a "styrofoam cup" and producing the lead.
    stever said:


    If you have another dealer you can get to, you could ask them for help.

    Make sure to describe the symptom and the attempts that have been taken in the attempt to solve the issue. Avoid trying to tell them what the problem IS, that actually will not help them.
    stever said:


    The bottom of this page has some useful info. (AGCO Auto)

    That is a very good description of basic alignment angles and symptoms. Once that information is really understood, then one can really start to learn what it takes to deal with the kinds of problems that a vehicle can develop.

  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 52,064
    Pull drift compensation - I like it.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918
    Seems more like pull drift assistance.

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 3,771
    I occasionally do demonstrations of just what the system is capable of. Take a nice long curve in the interstate. By being very careful with the wheel and allowing the system enough time to learn the turn, you can release the wheel and the car will stay in lane until the curve changes. If you have a long straight the car quickly learns and again you can release the wheel once the car has and it then tracks as straight as can be.

    This also means if someone has a car that has this compensation system, they won't come in the door complaining about any pull/lead condition almost no matter what the tires, suspension or alignment are like. Then if they get into a car that doesn't have it they notice a problem very quickly and find it quite annoying when the have to constantly make corrections.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 52,064
    Unintended consequences? Like excessive wear on tires due to deferred rotations but the driver isn't clued in to check thanks to the system always compensating?

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 3,771
    Yep, entirely plausible.
  • my02gtpmy02gtp Posts: 1
    I have an 02 grand prix GTP it's stalling the fuel pump has been changed the TPS changed its shifting at 4k-5k it's reading a low voltage code on the OBD2 meter.. the TPS has been changed ... HELP 
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 53,918
    what code # are you getting?

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