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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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  • Just picked up my Mazda3 5-door s Grand Touring in Copper Red Mica this morning. 120 miles later and I love it, but have 2 issues/questions to ask about:

    The carpet around and under the driver's side floor-mat hook is not attached to the floor-pan. It is quite loose for several inches in all directions and the whole carpet section flexes and moves as I work the clutch, brake, and gas. Pulled the mat out to make sure it was actually the carpet that was moving and it was. Is this typical?

    Looking at the driver's side mirror I have some strange distortion either in the driver's side window or the mirror itself that causes a sort of curving effect when looking at something in the mirror that should be a straight line. It actually gives me a headache to use the driver side mirror. Anyone else experienced this?

    Thanks in advance!
  • mcmazdamcmazda Posts: 2
    I'd take the car back to the dealer, and have them correct the mirror and carpet. Mine's not like that at all.
  • I am taking it back in this week for a few small things. Their prep team doesn't work on Saturdays so they're going to do whatever the salesman didn't do himself. Also throw on the rear bumper step plates for me.

    So I'll take my list in when I take the car in.

    I just wanted to make sure it wasn't just me. Especially that mirror thing. It really seems to be a lensing effect. At first I thought it was just the reflection of the circular dash vent in the window that was bothering me, but it is definitely not. It is a distortion of the image.
  • I know that the 2004 Mazda3 had an issue with rotor scoring from anti-corrosion coating and that there was a Mazda service bulletin to this effect directing techs to replace the affected rotors and pads.

    I am at 400 miles on my new 2006 5-door and the fronts are scored up pretty well. Is this supposedly corrected for the 2006 models and therefore indicative of something else - or is this still a typical problem on the 3?
  • Has anyone done anything as far as something to protect the foot rest for your left foot? Only 4.5 days driving my 3 and the carpet on the dead pedal is looking tired.
  • modockmodock Posts: 55
    I bought a 4 pedal set of aluminium pedals that I stuck on the pedals. The 4th pedal is for the area you are talking about. I just added a couple of stick on velcro patches to the pedal and it stays put quite nicely. If you search ebay for mazda pedals you can find them for $17.95 and $9.95 shipping. They are made by Nokya Motorsports
  • Thanks.

    This sounds good. Do these pedals clamp over the originals or replace them?
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    Can anyone tell me if it's normal for there to be an area directly under the rear floor mats where the carpet appears to have no support under it?

    It's about right in the middle of the rear foot area on both sides and feels like probably a 6"x6" square - I can press the carpet down a good inch or so before I think I hit something solid. I just found this to be very odd. Almost like a part of the floor pan is missing.

    Car is an '06 GT 4-door.
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    hmmmm - might be normal... looks like from this picture I found that there's a dip in the rear area of the floor-pan. A bit surprised there's not something there to support the carpet though...

    link to pic from web
  • modockmodock Posts: 55
    They clam on over the existing pedals
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 273
    It only happened once, mind you I havent been driving it much. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It's part of the pollution control setup.
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    I took some people out on the car last night.

    The problem with there being no support under an area of the rear carpet is that every time someone gets out of the back seat the non-supported area is exactly where they put their foot when exiting the vehicle. Pushing the carpet into this 1" deep void causes the carpet to flex and pushes the floor mat up under the seat. :confuse:

    If it's supposed to be that way - it's a ridiculous design. I just can't believe there's not supposed to be something rigid under the carpet there.

    If someone could please just check their car and see if it is the same way I'd really appreciate it. If it is, I've got to come up with a solution - maybe velcro strips on the bottom of the floor mats to keep them from moving around so much.
  • I am at 990 miles right now on my 5-door and will hit 1000 almost on the nose when I take the car to the dealer this evening for new front brake pads and a new driver-side mirror. I was planning on having them change the oil at the same time before going onto the recommended 5000 miles between changes.

    My concern is that the dealer told me that the 3s come with a blended synthetic oil in them. Knowing that synthetics are not good for engine break-in, should I let this oil go longer before the change or go on and do the 1000 mile change?
  • roger341roger341 Posts: 59
    I noticed that the passenger seat goes further back than the driver's. Is it possible to move the driver's seat track back further? Problem is, my right leg presses up against the sharp edge of the center stack and after a couple hours it really gets annoying.

    When I'm in the passenger seat, it definitely moves further back than the driver's.
  • I checked my rear carpets during my lunch break and found the same. My rear carpets are stretched taut over the rear floor pan, not on it. A good inch of play when pressing down on the carpets.

    Looks like this is an "undocumented feature". NOt something I would ever think to check in a sales scenario. Who would expect that the carpets aren't resting on the floor pan?

    A bigger concern for me than the floor mats moving would be someone's foot punching through the carpet into the void below it.
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    Really appreciate you checking that. It's odd isn't it??? The carpet (quality / installation) is the only real complaint I have about the car.

    Velcro sticks like crazy to the carpet - so I figured I'd apply some of the "hook" portion of the Velcro to the bottom of the mats and it would keep them from sliding around. No double sided tape I've found though will stick to the bottom of the mats so I'm not sure how to adhere the Velcro strips to the mats... superglue maybe?
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    From what I have read it is suggested not to add full synthetic oil until aleast 4 to 5,000 miles after the engine is broken in. Instead of synthetic oil I use a good grade dino oil and add a can of Molyslip(read the directions). They themselves recommend not using their product until the engine is broken in. Hope this helps.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    Well let me start off with this subject as it is getting to summer driving and we will be using our A/C again. Today I did use my A/C as the temps here was pleasantly warm. The outside temp was about 10F. Not a barn burner but the inside cabin was hot because the car was sitting in the sun. So decided to use the A/C for a few minutes just to see if it is working after sitting unused for the last 5 months. The Temp out the vents was 78F with the A/C on at 3. All the rest at normal settings as well. After about 10 minutes of driving it was still the same temp. Got home, let the car idle and noticed the compressor was only on for 5 seconds before shutting off. Last summer 10 to 12 seconds. Maybe the lower outside temp was causing the compressor to shut off sooner? Will see what happens when it gets hotter out. Still wondering why the temp out the vent is 78F when the outside temp 10F and A/C on???? :mad: and :confuse:
  • Thanks nifty56.

    I'm not thinking of moving to full syn yet. I was told the motor came factory-filled with a syn blend which made me wonder if the motor will take longer to break in properly on the first batch of oil. If so, then I was wondering about whether I should go on and change the oil now at 1000 miles or wait until 3000 or even a full 5000 to purge out the factory-filled oil.
  • I'm not taking it in until tomorrow now. Any sage advice on the oil question?
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    What year is your vehicle? I've got an '06 and it was around 70F yesterday. Sitting in the sun for a few hours the black interior got fairly warm - the A/C was ice-cold coming out of the vents and cooled the car down pretty quick.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    First oil change at 4000 miles as advised by my dealer. And at 7000 miles another change and added a can of molyslip.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    Should have added the year, forgot...mine is a 05,2.3,Gt,GFX,Sedan, 35% tinted windows all around.
    From what I have read the A/C units in the 06 are the same as the ones in the 05. How long was your compressor cycle? Mine 5 seconds and probably due to the cooler outside temp, 50F compared to your 70F
  • I went on and told them to change the oil since they have the car for the day anyway and I had a $5 off coupon. Get all the tiny little casting and machining residues and metal bits out. I'll go at least 3000 on the second fill, if not a full 5000.

    My dealer told me that there was no specific advise from Mazda on the question. It was a matter of personal taste - but that many people do and he sees nothing wrong with it. It certainly can't hurt.
  • expert2expert2 Posts: 2
    modock:
    thank you for this information. is this the one you ordered? I wanted to make sure we look at the same thing. I hope it is OK to put a link here.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOKYA-SILVER-RACING-PEDALS-MANUAL-MT-UNIVERSAL-TY- PE-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33700QQitemZ8049970808QQrdZ1

    do you have atx or mtx? i measured my pedals especially gas seems shorter than Nokya's. How did you do the installation? Also I am curios to know how you managed the foot rest section.
    Thank you very much
  • I have the Grand Touring with the Auto Climate Control and whenever I turn it on, the A/C indicator lights irrespective of how high I set the temperature.

    The Owner's manual implies that the two should function seperately:

    "With the AUTO or fan control dial ON, press the A/C switch to select the air conditioning (cooling/dehumidifying functions) on or off."

    However, turning off the A/C turns off the Auto mode on the climate control.

    I would expect that when it is cold outside and I set a higher cabin temperature that the Auto system would be on but the A/C indicator would be off or could be turned off without turning off the Auto mode.
  • modockmodock Posts: 55
    Yes that is the one that I got. It installs just fine over the existing pedals. If you send me an email I'll send you some pics. I just added some velcro to the back of the pedal and it sits in place just fine.
  • richmlrichml Posts: 156
    Does someone offer just a deadpedal, without the other three pedals?
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    Checked coming back from lunch today and it sounds like it's doing about 10-second cycles. It's around 68F here today. The air coming from the vents is very cold - I'll have to round up a thermometer to check the exact temp for you.
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    Mine does this too - there's a bunch of info on this over at www.mazdaiii.com forums. It's normal - just set the temp to whatever you want (I leave mine on 72F) and it will do what it needs to do on its own.
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