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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • lordpastylordpasty Posts: 11
    "Here in South Carolina we've already had some 90°F+ days and the A/C in my '06 is having no problem at all keeping the car cool. Car is an '06 3s-GT Sedan with BLACK leather interior - I've got the automatic climate control.

    On the hottest day we've had so far (91°F) and with the car baking in the sun for four hours, the fan ran on high for about 5 minutes or so and then gradually began to slow down over the next 30 minutes. I was never uncomfortable in the car after the initial 5 minute "cool-down".

    Yep. I'm not saying anyone here is wrong about their A/C problems, but I've had the same amount of "luck" with my A/C . I also have a black leather interior on a 3s GT w/Auto Climate and I have felt comfortable for the most part in weather that has already been 104 here in Dallas, Texas. :cry:

    As mentioned earlier tho, I suppose their could be a difference in A/C w/Climate Control. I would doubt it tho, climate control is probably just some extra sensors and electronics. Good Luck to everyone still having probs tho.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    Sounds about right. They have branded you as a nuisance and cut you off. Next the dealers will tell you to go somewhere else. A friend went through the same BS with Chrysler as he was trying to resolve a problem. Mazda doesn't care,they kep selling these cars on looks etc. and nothing more. A 20 year old doesn't give a rats [non-permissible content removed] about the A/C as long as he looks good and the car goes fast.
    Today it was 70F in the sun and my A/Cs coldest temp out of the vent was 43 to 44F. But at a outside temp of 80F plus I don't think the A/C will be a big help.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Although I have had major issue with the weak AC mine has been doing OK - temps are in the mid 80's -

    Last summer (about the same temps) I would run the fan on 3 - recirculate on - all the time and the car was never really cool - the last few days I have been using fan speed 3 at first - then switch back and forth between 2 & 3 - 3 is a little cold (something I thought I would never say) and 2 is a little warm. Some of the time I turn it to outside air and leave the fan on 3 - it still seems to keep the car cool. This is a new condition - I am 100% sure something has changed for the better.

    When I shut the car off - the radiator fan keeps running for a few seconds - my car did not do this before - My assumption is the fan must be running more than it did before - although I can not tell if it is running while I am driving - or if it did before.

    The radiator fan pulls air through the condensor - which does have an impact on the ability of the AC system to produce cold air. I do not know why the radiator fan started doing this - as far as I know Mazda did not change anything on my car - or at least they did not indicate it on my invoice.

    I also noticed that when I turn my AC on - the radiator fan almost always starts up right away - this is also something new - it did not do this last year.

    Maybe this has something to do with the problem - I do not know -

    If anyone is having weak AC issues - does your radiator fan start up as soon as you turn on the AC?

    Does it continue to run after you shut the car off?

    It is normal for the Radiator fan to come on with the AC
  • Ha that is EXACTLY where mine is making the sound...my Mazda dealer replaced my seat belt unit and scratched the bejesus out of the inside of my car while either taking the seat out or replacing it...and the funniest and absolutely most frustrating thing is that like 2 days later what happens...the darn clicking is back with avengence!!!
  • Hey I have a question...I just got my '06 Mazda 3 back from the dealership. They replaced my whole audio unit due to the clock not keeping proper time. My question is what is supposed to light up...it just doesn't quite look the same. I know that the area around the volume button is illuminated, as well as the 2 dials for the heat/ac and the direction, but what else should be? Or am I just going crazy?
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 275
    I think you nailed it when you said that the difference between the previous Mazdas w/climate control are the extra sensors.

    Yeah, I meant refridgerant when I said coolant. The former takes too long to type. ;-)

    Like z71bill wrote : The Mazda3 system is set up a little different - it also has a temperature sensor in front of the evaperator - it shuts the compressor down based on the evaperator hitting a set temperature. The Mazda has 2 sensors and it could be how they are programmed or designed that is affecting the compressor cycle, even though it shouldn't.

    From the A/C link I posted: "There is a high pressure switch, a low pressure switch, and a "medium pressure switch. The PCM gets data from all 3 switches, and controls the compressor relay. This is a TXV system, and evaporator icing is controlled by a thermistor on the evap face.

    Hard to say if the cycling is caused by hitting the HPCO, another pressure switch, or the anti-icing thermistor. Pressures will tell us plenty. "


    I believe the fault lies in the sensors and programming, but only pressure testing the A/C system will help us.

    We need to post high and low pressures whatever the ambient, especialy if the same thing happens when it's hot and or cold . But most important, pressures when it's doing it's cycling will tell us much more than you think.

    "Someone need to report the system pressures while running the engine at 3,000 rpm it will help us tell you what the system is doing. The description of cycling regardless of ambient sounds like a PCM problem. Post up some 3k rpm test data please."
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 275
    I keep on running into posts in other forums by 06 Mazda3 owners (GT) models that are claiming that their 3 has great A/C. Again, something is different between ours (2005,2004's) and theirs.

    If anyone has any connections to find out what, that would help. Thanks
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    Pretty much everything on the dash should light up - if it's a button it's lit on mine...

    image
  • prdmprdm Posts: 145
    >It is normal for the Radiator fan to come on with the AC

    Can't speak specifically about your Mazda (I'm on this board researching a future purchase) but on every car I've had with AC the radiator fan was essentially hard wired to the AC switch. Some of them left it running with the engine off.
  • Thanks so much for your reply...mine isn't working properly...yet another thing to bring back to my dealership...I haven't had much wrong thank goodness, it's just that anything they touch they mess up.

    Thanks again, much appreciated.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 275
    Ok, I dropped off my 3 today and I got an 2006 Mazda3 Sport (2.3l) 5 speed automatic. It has a real nice ride. I talked to the salesman and he said that in 2007, the Mazda3's will have climate control. There is NO climate control in any 2006 Mazd3a (not even in the GT) for Canada. We dunno why.

    Anyhow, in +10C weather, the compressor still cycles on for 10 seconds. However, the interval is different: instead of starting up again every 60+ seconds, it starts up every 15-18 seconds. This makes the entire interior cooler and actually has it stay cooler longer.

    Also noted, there is an onboard computer in the radio that measures outside temps, mileage consumed, average speed etc. It's a definite different software system in that car, which I believe is once again pointing to the PCM.
  • Our month-old Mazda 3i touring MT is great so far except for bad static on both FM and AM. The dealer is aware of the problem but has come with no fixes. Any suggestions. :( :
  • joyacjoyac Posts: 1
    Okay, I haven't done the obvious yet and taken it into the dealership (can't stand those people) but thought maybe someone else may have had trouble replacing a low beam headlight on their Mazda 3 hatchback (2004), and would have some insight. I saw the posts about removing the bumper-that's not my problem. I've already removed the dead bulb, but it seems no one can replace it. It doesn't match either bulb listed in the owners manual and while a couple auto part stores have looked at it (the car, the bulb, and my manual) they say it's a bulb they don't carry. I WILL take it into the dealership but just wanted to know if anyone else has encountered this problem? One mechanic told me it may be a $220 special xenon bulb but I can't find the match on the internet...arghh!
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    My 2005 5-door is due for oil change..
    I want to get a pollenfilter. Could I put it in myself? does that work at all? The 2006 ones have it standard, and it has been standard in Europe since forever. So it should be possible. How do I check that? Where would I put it? how do I access it?
    I called for my oil appointment and asked about that.. but ht eguy didn't know (and I don't want to spend much $ for them figuring it out... hell, for what they charge they should know :-)
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 275
    Yes, you can. You install it where the diffuser is which is to the left side underneath your glove box. Since the cabin filter is not OEM many dealers will try to search for the part based on your VIN and they wont come out with anything.

    See here: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111059
  • jmnappjmnapp Posts: 13
    I have a 2006 Mazda3 with about 2,500 miles on it. Around 80mph, there is a wind whistle that sounds like it is coming from the passenger side of the car. The dealer has checked the fit of the seals and doors and says they are fine. He seems to think that it is a bad bearing on the passenger side rear wheel. The bearing has been ordered, but I don't see how it is the problem. Any one else drive this fast on the freeway and have experienced this problem?

    Also, I had a cargo net installed by the dealer. The bottom screws are just attached to the plastic panel while the top screws are attached to the same panel but also to the base of the car behind the panel. The problem is the bottom of the plastic panel is loose and not very well secured. It this the way it's supposed to be? Thanks for your responses!
  • slate1slate1 Posts: 84
    I don't get the whistle at highway speeds but can answer your question about the cargo net.

    I installed mine myself and the bottom clips only go through the plastic panel - not into the frame. They've got an expansive rubber piece on them that holds them in place. I was concerned too when I installed it - but there's almost no weight on those clips - the top clips bear 90% of whatever you've put in the net so it should be fine. I've had no problems with it.
  • modockmodock Posts: 55
    Hope you have tried this. There are settings on the left that allow you to adjust the brightness. It adjusts the brightness of the instrument cluster (on the Low setting) and the center stack. I just hope you looked at this before taking it to the dealership for the center stack not haveing lights.
  • dudleyjdudleyj Posts: 1
    I drive my cars until they drop, how long can i expect a mazda3 to last? I've got 13yrs/180,000 on my subaru, still runs fine, but cost to fix a/c and electronics makes it time to get something new. Can i expect similar from mazda? Subaru definitely lasted better than a nissan sentra before it, where does mazda currently stand
  • psmythpsmyth Posts: 2
    The low beam bulb you are looking for is an H7. I have had good performance with the GE Nighthawk bulbs, although they do burn out a little quicker. By the way, the high beam bulb is a 9005. I don't know why they took their bumper off to replace the bulb. All you have to do on the driver's side is remove the cover over the battery although it is a bit tight even then.
  • psmythpsmyth Posts: 2
    I don't know if this is what you mean but there is an adjustment button just above and to the left of the centre guage. It controls the brightness level of the guage cluster depending on whether you have you headlights on or not. It's easy to miss behind the steering wheel.
  • Ya I checked the dial...my dealership was replacing my clock and I think they didn't hook it back up properly. I told them about it and they said they would fix it. But thanks for the advise.
  • kapuskapus Posts: 11
    Does anyone use any fuel system cleaner/additives on their 3? I have never used them on any of my other cars, but I saw a automotive show on tv a few weeks ago and the mechanic on the show basically said they work for cleaning the fuel injectors and in some instances help increase gas mileage. Any thoughts?
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    I now printed out the Mazda Service Bulletin... thanks for the link.
    I do have a hard time finding a filter. All online sources don't list one.
    When I did the oil change, they said it would cost 50$ (I'm not even sure if it included the filter), no way...
    Is there a good source for Mazda parts online? It seems I can order fenders, engines.. but not the cabin filter :-)

    another thing I want to install, is there a wat to get an ambient thermometer (like they are standard in hte 2006 ones)? Is it easy to install the autodimming mirror that includes the thermometer in my 2005 5-door? Or is there anither way to get a decent thermometer without spending $200?
    i mean, I don't want a cheap Walmart thermometer for 10$ that is somehow difficult to install in a nice way (after all, it is a Mazda and not a Kia :-) without cables laying around?
    By the way, the oil change cost 27$ including tax... decent price. the replaced one of my tire valves that lost air (thanks to the tire pressure monitor I noticed it..) free of charge.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 275
    yeah, i got one of those pieces of **** wal-mart brands: I dunno how you would install the temp sensor. you can contct the manufacturer and post back: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=3004- 88&siteid=214078&catalogid=3679
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    The mirror with temp is pretty easy to install, it took me a few hours on a sat afternoon. The directions are very easy to read. I bought mine at mazdastuff.com. It's an easy DIY project, just take your time and be deliberate.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 275
    DIY project? It doesnt sound like it. I got an email from another online Mazda store and you have to install the sensor under the hood. There is a wire from the mirror to the sensor, so this to me sounds like you may have to take apart the roof upholostry to get it working. Oh, and the electrical? How was that hooked up?
  • I have just bought a Mazda 3 sedan. It has less than 1,000 miles. I started notice a wind whistle around 75 to 80mph.. What I have also found out: if I press the internal roof trim close to the front overhead lights, the whistle goes almost away.. Have you tried that? I think there is some problems on how the internal roof trim is fixed, however I can't understand from where the air is coming from... I will try to address this in my first visit to the dealership. Let's see. I don't know if it is the same thing, but it is very weird..
  • jmnappjmnapp Posts: 13
    Hey, thanks for your response. My car is actually at the dealer right now to have the wind whistle problem fixed. He seems to think it's a rear wheel bearing, but I disagree as it sounds too much like the wind. I just called the service advisor and told him about your email. He is going to try pressing in the internal trim around the overhead lights to see if it solves the problem. Hopefully it will! I'll let you know what happens so you can relay that info to your dealer.
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    It wasn't "rocket science". Believe it or not there was no magic involved, cars do come apart you know. Thankfully, I am literate and can follow instructions, hence it was not that difficult. The most difficult part was getting the molding clips off without breaking them, so it took a patient and gentle hand. I'll see if I can find a link to post for the instructions. If I can do it, most anyone can do it, and it works great. If you are not confident in your abilities, take it to a dealer and pay the $$$ for labor, it shouldn't take them more than 2 hours tops. I used to drive a VW, so I am well versed in minor self repairs and upgrades
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