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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Sounds like bad luck -

    Why would a low profile tire get more flats?
  • I have a 6 month old Mazda 3i and was recently in a car accident. According to the shop body work and alignment was the only problem. I also reported a whistling sound that occurs when I turn the wheel. It can best be described as a constant low hum that grows louder when I turn the wheel whether I am driving or not. At first the shop said they did not know what was causing the sound, a second look and they said it was a normal engine sound. Except it was not there before the accident. I am taking it in somewhere else for a second opinion. Any thoughts of what might be causing the sound? And anyone else's car make this noise?

    thanks
  • I'm having that CEL issue. It came on last time with rough idle and a replaced purge valve solved the problem. It's on agian with no symtoms. Anyone know a way to check the codes without the help of a mechanic? I used to get the CEL to blink out the code on my 80s GM cars.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Anyone know a way to check the codes without the help of a mechanic?

    Sounds like a job for an OBD reader. ON the other hand, it may be a diagnostic by a professional. I have not bought a reader myself because I have heard a) the information provided for the codes needs to be interpreted by a mechanic; b) the code may provide only a partial picture of the root problem (example: code may refer to O2 sensor problem but the root of the problem may be "further up" in the emission system which is affecting that O2 sensor).

    Personally, with all the talk that we hear about how sophisticated cars are it strikes me as ironic that we feel less in control. I think that as consumers we should demand better information about our car systems; imagine in addition to navigation systems we had an onboard computer diagnostic tool that explained the "code" and the proper remedy so that we could talk to our mechanic with some confidence about the problem.
  • m3fan3m3fan3 Posts: 27
    I have a 2006 mazda3 S grand touring, with leather. i use a vinyl cleaner and then a vinyl protectant for the dash, center console, doors, pretty much all plastic. the website is www.pinnaclewax.com. i purchased it in "The Driver's Seat" store.im in SE Florida so i dont know if there are any stores in your area. the whole kit was $65. yes it is quite expensive however it is worth it. you can buy one thing seperate.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    "Why would a low profile tire get more flats?" The shorter, stiffer sidewall provides less cushion between the rim and a pothole.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Good point -less cushion between the rim and a pothole - I was thinking nail in the tire = flat!

    I have hit some horrible pot holes / railroad tracks at 45 MPH and have not had any tire damage (205 50 17 stock tires) - what speed are you going when you hit a pot hole that causes the tire to be damaged (flat?)

    BTW - IMO if you hit the brakes before a pot hole to slow down that is a good thing (DUH) but - if continue to brake hard while actually hitting the hole that is a bad thing to do. You are better off taking your foot off the brake right before the tire impacts the hole/ large bump.

    When you slam the brake on hard it causes two things that can increase damage.

    The front the car dives down - this puts extra downward force on the front wheels reducing the amount of suspension travel available to absorb the shock.

    Also by braking hard you are may cause the wheel to be almost stopped at the point of impact - rather than turning freely. This was a bigger issue before anti-lock brakes - skidding into a pot hole with your front tires locked up will cause all kinds of damage.
  • I purchased a new Mazda 3 (auto tran) in late May 2006. Currently has 5300 miles on it. Approx 10 times so far, the engine sputters (as if it is going to stall), this has happened while idling, upon acceleration from idle & when traveling at low speeds. Then this past weekend, while idling at a red light, the engine stalled completely (no sputter), just went dead. It cranked up immediately afterwards.
    I took it to the dealership today and they've already called saying they don't see anything wrong with it.
    Searching this forum, I see that a "stalling" problem was the subject of several posts. Has anyone had this issue resolved? Does it sound similar to my problem? I'd love to let the service dept know what has or has not worked for others.

    Thanks
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    Has your problem happened 10x in the past 5000 miles or is it something recent? If it's something recent, you might have gotten some bad gasoline... just a thought.
  • I can't remember exactly when I 1st noticed the sputtering engine problem. I initially thought the same thing, that maybe it was bad gas. However, the problem has recurred over time, with different tanks of gas from different gas stations. So at this point, I am inclined to think that gasoline is not the problem, unfortunately.
  • Its not the gas - this is a PROBLEM with this car. I too had the same problem at least 15 times. Mazda eventually took my car back because I made a big fuss until they did. The day they took my car back the dealership finally told me that they had 6 other cars in the dealership with the same problem but Mazda doesn't know how to fix the problem. My best advice to you......... demand they fix it - print off all the postings and tell them they need to find a solution for you. This problem gets worse in the cold weather - my car stalled in the middle of an intersection in the dark - I was lucky I wasn't killed. Write letters to Mazda - keep records of everything and don't let them get away with this problem.
  • brodie2,
    what year was your car and how long ago did they take it back? I picked mine up yesterday from the dealership service dept. Service manager says they can't find a problem, but that Mazda is aware of a "stalling" problem caused by a purge flow issue. He says they are coming out with a PCM update in mid-December that will fix the problem. I guess I can give them until mid-december, but I am a little cynical and wonder if this is just a "stalling" technique (pun intended!!) on their part, to just get me out of the dealership and that hopefully I won't come back.
  • My car was a 2004 - I fought with them for two years. It wasn't until I convinced them I was going to get killed in this car (since I also had a power surge problem where the car would just take off both in forward and in reverse without putting your foot on the gas peddle) They took the car back in June however, I heard that had something coming out in August -September - and nothing happened. My question to you is...... what if you do wait and this happens again, and you get into an accident.... then who's fault is it since Mazda knows there is a problem with your car - yet they let you drive away! How can they say there is nothing wrong with your car yet tell you there will be a fix shortly - obviously there is a problem - and obviously they are letting you drive away in an unsafe vehicle.
  • I totally concur with dride. I also got the M3s and 16" wheels from Tirerack and was totally satisfied with the results. It is like night and day on snow and ice between the original 17" goodyears and the 16" winter M3s.
  • I have a 2004 Mazda 3 and am having the problem that occasionally I get some combination of these problems: (1) radio/clock stops working; (2) trip odometer resets to zero; (3) remote entry/power door locks don't work. I know 04sweetness (#3075) and shel9 (#3017) had this same problem last winter. Can anyone tell me what is probably wrong and how to fix it?
  • so it gets worst in winter? i havent had the problem since the last time i went to the dealer to reconnect my mass air flow (mid september i think)...but im going on the theory that it has something to do with the humidity, in the morning specifically...that's the only time my car would stall. but now that the weather has been getting colder, i havent had it reoccur...so now im just waiting for next summer to go thru the many visits...maybe.
  • I recently got the 2007 3S GT with xenon headlights. I am very happy with the car, but I find the adjustable low beam headlights are angled too low. I find this is the case even when the adjustment dial is set at the most superior position.

    Does anyone know a way to angle the headlights higher?

    Thanks.
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    Steering gear-box?
    I have an "i" model also, but have heard no such noise.
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    My engine light came on again -
    This will be the 2nd thermostat the dealer has to replace.
    Anyone else have a similar experience? :confuse:
  • Hey all-

    My wife and I recently bought a used 2004 Mazda 3 Hatchback (leather, sunroof, CD changer, Xenon options) and have a couple questions for anyone kind enough to respond. BTW - We've checked the forum archives but haven't seen anything corresponding exactly to...

    We have the Xenon option and periodically the headlights will flicker. Doesn't seem to be any pattern to it. Sometimes it happens after driving for ten minutes or so. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Also, the right headlight Xenon will go out periodically, but then after the car is turned off and restarted, it comes back on. Is this a Xenon thing? A wiring thing? A headlight about to go out thing?

    Also, I've read a number of posts related to brake grinding and other noises. Do the Mazda pads have the "wear indicators" found on other cars that give you an idea of when you really do need to get the pads replaced? To my ears from inside the vehicle, it sounds like the rear pads kind of rumble when braking and wondered if that was an indication of wear. There doesn't seem to be any substantial noise from outside the vehicle though. I'm guessing it could just be road noise but was curious what other owners thought.

    Thanks all!
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    The headlight issue sounds to me like a wiring issue. Are you aware of any damage that may have occurred to the front end of the car before you owned it? Look at the area behind the lights to see if any of the wiring is damaged or dosent look right.

    On a separate topic, have an 07 GT 4door 5-speed. When shifting i heard a weird clunking sound from what seems like below the drivers seat. Anyone had this issue before?
  • What year is your mazda? Mine is a 2007 and the light has come on twice in two months. They are replacing my emissions pump to fix the problem. I have only had the car two months so I hope this is not a similar problem that reoccurs often.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Also, I've read a number of posts related to brake grinding and other noises. Do the Mazda pads have the "wear indicators" found on other cars that give you an idea of when you really do need to get the pads replaced? To my ears from inside the vehicle, it sounds like the rear pads kind of rumble when braking and wondered if that was an indication of wear. There doesn't seem to be any substantial noise from outside the vehicle though. I'm guessing it could just be road noise but was curious what other owners thought

    Mazda3 (and prior to that Proteges) have a known brake issue: the paads can lockup if rust develops. The remedy is to have your disc brakes periodically cleaned and lubricated. I have mine lubricated every 18 months and have been running on the same disc brakes for over 4.5 years (80,000 km / 50,000 miles)!

    p.s. Lubricating your disc brakes is not particular to Mazda; it's recommended for anyone with disc brakes.
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    It is a 2004 with a 2.0 engine. It has only about 18k miles on it, though.
    It is still the most fun-to-drive economy car I've ever driven.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I am not an expert on brakes - but have never heard of lubricating your brake pads - can you explain what this is?

    I know when you replace the pads a very small amount of lube (high temp grease) is put on the spot where the caliper contacts the BACK of the brake pad - but this has nothing to do with the rubbing sound you hear when you stop.

    My Mazda3 had the grinding rear brakes - when I stepped on the brake it sounded like I was dragging concrete blocks behind the car. I first had my car in for this problem in February 2004 was told it was normal - about 2 years later Mazda came up with a fix for the grinding problem - it was a new brake pad - but by this time my rotors were worn out and needed to be replaced.

    Not sure why it took so long for Mazda to figure out that something was wrong - but the replacement pads and new rotors solved the problem.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 275
    MY dealer put something on my brakes, I can't recall the name of it...it prevented extra play in the calipers that caused clunking when backing up. I think it's something similar to anti-seize.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    lubricating your brake pads

    It's not the pads :surprise: but the brake mechanism that gets cleaned and lubricated, i.e. the brake calipers and sliders holding the pads. Sorry for the confusion :blush:
  • aspen4aspen4 Posts: 22
    I have an 2004 Mazda 3,with the automatic and
    2.3 engine.
    My Engine Light came on once. Took it to the deal-
    er.Some sensor was bad. Never has a problem
    since.
    Brakes: Had lots of squeal and huge amounts of
    dust on back wheels.Took the car in and they
    replaced the pads. Now I am rid of the dust,
    but they squeal worse. they squeal only in
    cold weather,not when its warm. Anyone have an
    answer?

    Car has run perfect otherwise.Have about
    16,000 miles on it.
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Our brakes make this noise usually in the morning when first backing out of the garage. We had the rear brake dust & grinding fixed with the new pads about 2 months after buying the car. Hate the noise, but still love the car. Looking to get new sneakers, as the wear bars are showing on the Toyos with close to 23k on the odo. The dealer seems to have very competitive prices on their tires also. Will be making a decision when we do the oil change @ 24k miles.

    The Sandman :)
  • I'm seriously considering buying a new Mazda3 next week and would appreciate some help with understanding the 3's "stalling problem". After sifting through numerous posts here describing a continuing Mazda3 stalling problem, I still can't get a handle on how broad an issue this is. Is it affecting only the 2.0, or the 2.3 engine, or both, 3's with manual tranny's, or automatic, or both? Has the problem has been resolved in the 07's or is it continuing? Has it been a problem with the Mazda6 as well? Thanks!
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