Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

1136137139141142163

Comments

  • m3fan3m3fan3 Posts: 27
    For my first oil change I did not feel like going to the dealer, so I went to "Jiffy Boob." they however refused to work on the car because they said they have been breaking something on the mazda 3's too many times. I can not remember what that something was(he did tell me what it was, I just don't remember). He said this was not just this location, and that all the other JIffy locations were not doing oil changes for the 3. This is in florida. I can't entirely remember if it was all locations in the state or country. After that I always go to the dealer. I just don't trust any other place. and yes the dealer may make a mistake or two however it is easier to resolve the mistake than at like "Jiffy Boob". (at least at my dealer)
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    After that I always go to the dealer. I just don't trust any other place. and yes the dealer may make a mistake or two however it is easier to resolve the mistake than at like "Jiffy Boob". (at least at my dealer)

    My Mazda dealer has a first-rate service department, and they give me free oil changes every 5000 miles as long as I own the car. I bring my own Mobil 1 5W-30, but it's still a good deal.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • m3fan3m3fan3 Posts: 27
    Well, the next day the player magically unjammed itself, so I didn't bother going to the dealer since I wouldn't be able to show them the problem. After that event nothing ever happened to the cd player. But if it is still like that I think you should go to the dealer especially if you're still under the warranty and there shouldn't be any problems replacing it or fixing under the warranty. I had mine replaced for the player freezing up, like a computer would: just freeze. If I would try and change the track or the disc, it wouldn't do anything and the track time would have been frozed up and you can't even hear the player trying to change the discs. But I had the player replaced for that, not for it jamming up the discs. Sorry if I took too long to reply.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 477
    It doesn't seem logical that the engine swap devalues your car by $1,000. It's not like you had a collision with extensive body and frame damage. If there had been a defective engine part and Mazda had replaced it under warranty, would that devalue the car? I don't know. But if you trust these dealers, then it is what it is. Bummer. I know there is such thing as a diminished value claim, but I'm not very familiar with how those work. The lawyer may cost you a good portion of the $1,000 you're going after, but it's worth getting his advice if the consultation is free. Keep us posted.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The lawyer may cost you a good portion of the $1,000 you're going after
    Agreed.
  • I doubt you have a legal case, I am not an attorney but I would think it would follow the same as if you wrecked the vehicle, The insurance company is responsible to make the vehicle driveable if they accept the claim but just as in the case of major body damage the value of the vehicle will be diminished and that is not the fault of the insurance company. I think they are being very fair in paying for an engine repair that seems to be caused by service screw up that normally is not considered a coverable loss, you might open up a can of worms if you threaten them with an attorney. If you are going to hire an attorney I would direct it at the lube shop not your insurance company.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    If you are going to hire an attorney I would direct it at the lube shop not your insurance company.

    I thought that he was dealing with Kwicky Boob's insurance carrier. If that is the case, he should pursue a diminished value claim- assuming that the reduction in value can be proven.
    FWIW, I used to be an attorney- until I decided to make an honest living... ;)

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Two separate dealers have told me that the replacement engine if it shows up on car fax will diminish the value of the car $1000. Maybe I should sue the quicky lube establishment in small claims court for the $1,000. By the way the insurance company for the quick oil change culprit says that in Ohio there is no legal precedence for "diminished value" however if you search the web for cases they do exist and have been won in the past. I have also researched that this is a state by state basis. In Kentucky for example this case would be a slam dunk no doubt winner for the owner ( me). But, I still love Ohio, I was born and raised here. Go Bucks!!
  • toguytoguy Posts: 20
    I currently own a 2002 Corolla, which has given me a good service and a very low cost of ownership, both in terms of fuel and maintenance cost. I'm currently looking to buy a Mazda3 (2.0 liter engine and auto), though it's not a final decision yet, and I'm wondering how you find the maintenance cost (I know I'll pay more for fuel and I'm ok with that). I'd be particularly interested to hear from anyone who did the same switch from Corolla to Mazda3.

    Any feedback would be much appreciated.

    Cheers.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    Any feedback would be much appreciated.

    I have a Mazdaspeed3, which isn't directly comparable. That said, I've found the running costs to be very reasonable. The 5K mile service runs around $50, the 15K is $100, while the 30K costs @$200. Of course, some dealers trie to pad the bill with services Mazda doesn't require. My Dealer doesn't. Note also that you could probably dddo a 7.5K service instead of a 5K. Since my car is turbocharged and I drive it in a rather sporting fashion I use a 5K service interval. The 3 is a great car- in any flavor!

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • I've had an 07 Mazda3 2.3L 4dr since Sept. 06. With mainly short trip driving, I'm getting 22 MPG and have had no maintenance issues other than routine oil changes and tire rotations every 5k miles. Depending on where you live, you may want to get snow tires for the winter as the stock 17" tires have NO grip on snow or ice. When I was looking for a car, the Mazda3 was way more fun to drive than the Corolla and Civic.

    Enjoy!
  • toguytoguy Posts: 20
    Thanks for the replies so far. I live in Toronto and plan to change the OEM tires with either good all-seasons (thinking of the Yokohama AVID TRZs, which I currently have on my Corolla. Highly recommended, btw.), or Winter tires.

    One other thing that I'm researching is how much of the Mazda3 is Ford-sourced. According to wikipedia.org, for example, the 4-speed auto is made by Mazda while the 5-speed auto is made by Ford, which is the main reason that -if I do end up with a Mazda3- it will be the one with the 4-speed.

    I'd appreciate any information, or any websites where I can get reliable information, about that issue.

    Cheers
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Besides some brake squeal issues that the dealer took care of, the car's been very reasonable to maintain. We had bought a prepaid maintenance program for the 1st 45k miles, so I knew the wife would take it in to the dealer for the maintenance needed. looking back, probably wouldn't do it again but for what I paid and the services received...it more than justified the price. And since I knew that the wife would have more time to bring the car into the dealer, it's located at the entrance to our housing development, we went with it.
    My '06 Civic has only needed oil changes and no rotations yet since I drove over a nail and the rear tire wasn't patchable. Ended up having to purchase 2 tires for the rear. But this car is as "cheap to keep" as our previous Camry's and Corolla's.
    Very happy with our 2 cars now, eventhough the 3s seems to be not as well put together as the Civic.

    The Sandman :)
  • toguytoguy Posts: 20
    Sandman, thx for your feedback.

    It's interesting that you find the Mazda3 not to be as well-built as the Civic. My initial impression after having been a passenger in both cars a couple of time is the other way around; I think the Mazda3's interior fit/finish and general solidity is a notch above the Civic. Having said that, I've only had a brief experience with either car and, since you own both, I would be interested to know more details about why you think the Civic is better built.

    Cheers
  • hey man, i am in your exact same position. except mine is even a bit more tricky. i purchased my m3hatchback from a woman who is from ohio (where i live) but had lived in Arkansas, then moved here then moved to germany (her husband is in the air force). anyways, i bought the car and it was in beautiful shape not a ding on it. she todl me how she had the oil chagned on regular intervals with full synthetic etc etc and the day after i made the first payment, the filter housing exploded and my engine was fried just like yours. after having it towed and all sorts of mess it ended up costing me 7612 dollars and i was advised to get a lawyer, which i did. i am currently working on the whole legal aspect of it but it is kind of tricky dealing with it from across the country haha. i wish you lots of luck, and im glad your insurance company would cover it because ours wouldnt even touch it. email me if you have any questions, ive become quite the expert about this topic haha.
  • Have 04 Sedan, 160hp, 22,000 miles.

    This am, backing out of garage, noticed several oil puddles on floor. Checked oil filter, it was tight, no sign of leakage.

    Took it to dealer, he just called and said it was a collapsed motor mount. Fortunately the car is still under warranty.

    Anyone hear of this problem?
  • mariodmariod Posts: 28
    Yes....
    I just had the same problem on my 05 2.3 with 47K. It's kind of common. Overall the car is rock solid. it does have a few minor issues, but that almost expected.
    I just wish it had a trunk release from the key fob. My buddy works at a Mazda dealer and he tells me there's NO serious issues with the 3 and he just one come in with 237K miles on it! Wow!

    It's a great car and i love driving it!!!
  • 2006m32006m3 Posts: 1
    i bought my m3 2.3 (AT) in late 2006. i get horrible MPG. city and highway i get 18MPG. Highway i get 20MPG, and city i get no more than 16MPG. had the dealer do some firmware updates...it did not work. recently the car would not start. finally when it did, it would sputter and inside the car would be full of fumes. and if put in reverse the RPM would drop suddenly and turn the car off...if put in Drive, the car would shake suddenly. had it towed to the dealership, where it was turned on by the mechanic...he could not believe the fumes!
    from the day i bought the damn thin, i have had nothing but headaches. whenever taken to the dealer for problems, "problem not found".
    dealer mechanics are only good for oil changes and ripping customer's off, by offering services they are unable to perform. dealer mechanics hardly focus on the prolem at hand. they never pay attention to what complaints are and their work-orders do not include customer's complaints...only their own simplified-language...."engine problem"...okay.. perhaps they get paid by the number of cars they services, i.e. they just claim "no problem found"
    I never imagined a mazda would have so much problems...
  • mariodmariod Posts: 28
    Be sure to keep your left climate control setting on Face or Face and feet.... If you turn that setting over to right, feet etc.... you WILL TURN ON YOUR AC Compressor....

    It's a real stupid design, BUT it you turn the setting past 12:00 (feet) or any other setting to the right of that your A/C compressor will turn on and REDUCE your gas mileage. big time....

    Help me spread the news, not many people know this.

    Otherwise it's a great car!
  • scwmcanscwmcan Niagara, CanadaPosts: 394
    My guess is at least 99% of other cars with air conditioning act in the same way. The defrost setting activates the A/C compressor to dehumidify the air and make your windshield clear up faster, regardless of the a/c switch being on or not. The A/C doesn't seem to affect my mileage that much (but it is mostly highway) but if you are in town then yes it could hurt more. That said don't drive around with your windows fogged up either (depending where you line that can be a big issue). All the cars I have ever owned with A/C operate the same way, so maybe there is a good reason for it, don't you think? Anyway it is definitely not a Mazda specific design, you should never drive around in any modern car in a defrost position all the time, the air conditioning will be operating.
    Scott
  • mariodmariod Posts: 28
    You're partially correct.... But you're wrong too...

    Most cars do NOT turn the AC compressor ON when you select the foot position (floor). This is usually the position that MOST people keep their air flow on..............
    This means that many Mazda 3 owners will experience lower the normal gas mileage, for sure.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Posts: 52
    Another "feature" of Mazda3 A/C is that if you switch the airflow to your face or feet and turn the temperature knob to the coldest setting, the A/C automatically, forcefully comes on AND the air, forcefully, switches to recirculated, without my intending to do so.

    This is a completely useless, stupid, and unacceptable blunder on the part of the car designers. If I want an A/C on, I am capable of pushing the button. If I want recirculated air, I can do the same just as easily. At least the A/C and recirculated air both can be manually turned off by pushing the buttons, but watch out - the next gen cars might not allow you to do even that.

    This is my only gripe with my new 2008 Mazda3i so far. Otherwise, the car has been great - I just do not understand why Mazda designers decided to deliberately put a piece of turd on an otherwise exceptionally well thought out dish....

    On a separate issue, automatically turning the A/C on when the airflow is directed to the windows is a useful feature that might potentially improve safety. If weather conditions are "right", flow of air suddenly directed at the windows can fog them up in seconds, which could result in disaster.. I read some time ago about this feature in a Toyota owners manual. In case of Corolla, the A/C automatically switches on in reduced power mode and the A/C indicator light does not come on. I am not certain, but I suspect that Mazda's implementation is similar.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    when you select the foot position (floor). This is usually the position that MOST people keep their air flow on

    Really? I am surprised that you think that would be the most common position.
  • Maybe it's different in my Mazdaspeed 3, The climate control does all the things mentioned here, but only when in Auto mode. Whenever I change any setting but temperature, the system kicks out of auto and it's back to full manual control. I can also turn off the auto with a button press. It does indeed turn on the AC whenever I select auto, even if I want heat. That dries the air nicely before heating it. I usually just hit the AC button to disable and go the old school route.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Posts: 52
    Yes, it is different in some Mazda3S and Mazdaspeed 3, which have automatic climate control. The Mazda3i, which I was sort of ranting about, has manual A/C.
  • scwmcanscwmcan Niagara, CanadaPosts: 394
    I don't know about your 3 but mine doesn't turn on the a/c in the floor position, when it is in the defrost/floor (mixed) yes, and my grand am did the same thing as have my volvos and every other modern car I have seen, as soon as any air goes to the windshield it engages the a/c (and yes I would suspect it is not at full power)
    Scott
  • scwmcanscwmcan Niagara, CanadaPosts: 394
    If I am understanding you correctly you are saying the A/c is automatically turning on and going into rec when you turn the temp to full cold even on the foot only and foot and dash vents only (no air to the windshield)? I know mine doesn't do that at all, so either things are different in the states or yours is programmed differently, mine is a 2007 base hatch (gs sport in Canada) manual A/C, I see yours is a different year. It sounds like they may have changed something for the worse (in my opion as well as yous from the sound of it). I don't know why the A/c would operate in the manner you are describing, sounds weird and wasteful to me. I can understand the A/C coming on in defrost automatically but not in any non defrost mode. Is everyone else with a manual a/c 2008 3 experiencing the same thing? if so it sounds like a bad move on Mazda's part.
    Scott

    Scott
    (P.S. sorry if I misunderstood what others were complaining about in previous posts)
  • mariodmariod Posts: 28
    HERE ARE THE FACTS.... If all of you want to keep on beating this up that's OK too....

    I have a 2005 Mazda 3 S 2.3 sedan, NO climate control.

    Any time you turn your MODE dial to feet or windshield your AC compressor will turn on. Hence reducing your gas mileage.............

    I have confirmed this with a Mazda engineer in California and a my Mazda mechanic. This is the way it was designed, it does make sence to me. My honda's do not do that....
  • I have an '04 Mazda3 - in May '07 engine issue @55k very loud ticking - bad wrist pin was the diagnosis. Engine was replaced. Given 12k/12month warranty. Just over the 12k warranty Jan '08 it's doing it again. Have appointment tomorrow. I'm freaking out! All service has done at dealership in timely fashion. Anyone have same issue or ideas?
  • scwmcanscwmcan Niagara, CanadaPosts: 394
    Mariod,
    I appologized in another message for not understanding what you had written, the fact remains that my 2007 (canadian model) 3 gs sport, manual A/C does not automatically turn the air on in any position that does not have defrost (air to the windshield) on it ie. defrost and mixed (air to the floor and air to the winshield). In pure floor, floor and dash vents (face) and just dash vents (face) the air conditioniing does not come on unless I turn it on, and in no position does it turn on the a/c button and the rec button regardless of temp position as another poster mentioned (I tried it this morning), so I am going to have to toss this one to differences in programming for the different markets (us and canada) though I agree with you if your a/c does act in this way (a/c auto on an floor only) it makes absolutely no sense at all, and is something that should be corrected.
    Again sorry for any misunderstanding.
    Scott
Sign In or Register to comment.