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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,763
    Mazd issued a TSB for your problem. It works for some cars but not others. Like every other MS3 problem, I'm sure it will afflict my car eventually.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • mariodmariod Posts: 28
    My 2005 3S does the same thing ONLY when it's cold outside. When ever i'm approaching a stop right before the car comes to a complete stop i'll hear a small rattle that sound like it's coming from the PSGR side glove box windshield area of the car. It only does it for a second right before the car comes to a complete stop. and ONLY when it's cold. Strange...

    If you get your fixed and or figure out what the TSB # is please let us know.
    Thx.
  • I have been impressed with the way the Mazda 3 handles and have fallen in love with a 2004 Mazda 3, 5 speed standard, with 85,400 miles on it.

    I am wonders what you guys think, should i go ahead and buy this car. It is in excellent conditions engine, body and structure. I am wondering what to expect from a car with this miles on. I know these car can go over 200,000 miles with proper car and maintenance.

    HELP !!!!!!!!!!!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    have fallen in love with a 2004 Mazda 3, 5 speed standard, with 85,400 miles on it

    2004 was the first year of the Mazda3 and I believe there were some issues. You may want to check Consumer Reports Used Vehicles ratings to see what the areas of concern were. In any case, I would have your local mechanic check the car out to ensure that everything is fine.

    Best of luck!
  • ylzylz Posts: 45
    Hello all. Buying a 2009 Mazda 3 Hatch this month and I had some questions. I am thinking of buying a cold air intake for more power but my friend who owns a 2008 says I'm nuts. I have test driven this car a few times and I know it has power but what about the highway? I frequently drive over 80 and am I going to have trouble passing people, making two lane passes, etc...?? Do I need this intake? Also, does the intake really help that much? I have heard mixed reviews about it. And I can't seem to find one online for a 2009, I only see for 2008 models and below. It's the same engine and should fit, right? Thanks.
  • ylzylz Posts: 45
    Hello all. Buying a 2009 Mazda 3 Hatch this month and I had some questions. I am thinking of buying a cold air intake for more power but my friend who owns a 2008 says I'm nuts. I have test driven this car a few times and I know it has power but what about the highway? I frequently drive over 80 and am I going to have trouble passing people, making two lane passes, etc...?? Do I need this intake? Also, does the intake really help that much? I have heard mixed reviews about it. And I can't seem to find one online for a 2009, I only see for 2008 models and below. It's the same engine and should fit, right? Thanks.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,763
    A cold air intake alone won't add much-if any-power to a modern normally aspirated motor. And even a turbocharged car will rarely pick up more than 20-25 hp.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Right, as roadburner stated, it won't make much of a difference. A cold air intake under the right conditions MIGHT give you 10 HP tops, even that is barely enough to notice. As for power, I think these little cars are fine for passing, just drop it a gear and punch it, it will get there quick enough. If you are looking for something to plant you in your seat and jump up to 100, then you should look at something with a V8 like the mustang. I have a 2004 hatch and it does me just fine, my friend has a mazdaspeed and that little thing can really move. Best of luck.
  • joem5joem5 Posts: 201
    Waste of money for a N/A 2.3
  • I have a 2004 mazda 3 80k i have had it only about a year. only problem i've had was changing the spark plugs after i bought it.. earlier today i turned my car on and the battery light was on. I called my dad he said to drive it maybe it was just cold.. so i was driving and my power steering light come on i could harldy turn my wheel around the corner. I pulled to the side of the road put my car in park. then withought pulling my e-brake up. my brake light came on. Which then i couldnt move my car at all it wouldnt move my car completely locked up. I took it to get the alternator and battery checked they read fine. and the battery light turned off after i got a jump start. I went home and charged it for a little bit. turned the car on and the brake light is still on??? Any ideas to what is going on please??
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    Does anyone have tips on how to replace the passenger side low beam headlight. I can not seem to get the new bulb "locked" in place. I wish my hands were smaller.
  • I am 85% sure that I will be purchasing an '09 Mazda 3 within a week or so. Any word of advice on buying it, breaking it in, maintenance issues, etc??

    This is my first car, and I am kind of freaking out.

    Thanks!
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 508
    Congrats! I wish my first car had been as nice as yours will be. There's tons of advice on the site and in the forums for buying and maintenance. Theories differ on breaking in new engines. Some say it's not necessary at all, let her rip right out of the box. Others say you must be extremely delicate, let it warm up for a few minutes on each start before moving, change your oil after the first 1000 miles. I believe the truth is somewhere in the middle. Don't obsess, but do take it somewhat easy for the first 500-600 miles. Keep your revs low, brake gently, vary your speed (mix of city and highway, don't take a several hundred mile highway road trip right out of the box). Don't be too disappointed in the gas mileage from your first tank, it will improve. Then after a couple weeks (I know I always get my first 500 in about three days!), have some fun. Cars are meant to be driven!

    My grandfather used to say you shouldn't use your cruise control for the first 500 miles, and I never really understood why (maybe what he meant was to avoid long highway trips until broken in, and therefore no need for cruise control), but I always follow that rule anyway because it's fun to remember him.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    The absolute best advice that anybody can give you is to READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL from cover to cover. In that booklet you'll find answers to virtually all of your questions on the care and feeding of your new ride. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,763
    Owners Manual?
    What's that?
    Can I get it on a podcast?

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    My grandfather used to say you shouldn't use your cruise control for the first 500 miles, and I never really understood why...

    That comes from the advice to vary speed during break in. I don't know why or what the consequences of not doing it would be, but it is considered to be bad for the engine to be run that way when it is new and being broken in.

    For my Mazda6 with the 2.3 engine, they give the following advice in the owners manual:

    No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600
    miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.
    l Don't race the engine.
    l Don't maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast, for a long period of time.
    l Don't drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
    l Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
    l Avoid full-throttle starts.
  • i will tell my story which is very similar. i have a 2004 mazda 3, and on around 67000 km on dec 11th my cel came on. i called the dealer and they said seeing as the car was running fine( no loss of power) they told me it could be the gas cap not being tight enough and that after about 7 cycles of engine starts it should reset. well it hadnt reset by dec 18th so i decided to make an app. to have it looked at. well two days before my app. the light turned off. then two days later it came back on, and like before it stayed on continuiosly. so again i waited as the car was driving fine, but this time it hadnt shut off on its own, so again i made an app. when they did their tests it came back saying the thermostat was staying open, and that it would cost 350 to fix. they didnt have the part today but assured me that it would be available by friday, but he also said something about a "flash" for the computer which they did and reset the engine light...so i guess i will have to take it in on friday to replace the thermostat, but if the light comes on again after 500kms, i will be pissed. i will keep you informed
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    when they did their tests it came back saying the thermostat was staying open, and that it would cost 350 to fix.

    Curious. Replacing a thermostat is relatively inexpensive so there must be more to the "fix". How exactly are they going to fix the problem?
  • mariodmariod Posts: 28
    350 to change your thermostat... Are you kidding me.... The part costs 43 USD...
    And i don't think a bad thermostat would cause a CEL light to come on. The only thing it would cause is your car to Hot or stay cold. Nothing to do with emissions.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,763
    350 to change your thermostat... Are you kidding me.... The part costs 43 USD...

    Agreed. That's outrageous.

    And i don't think a bad thermostat would cause a CEL light to come on.

    Yes it can; if the car doesn't reach its normal operating temperature the engine management system may never go into closed-loop. It also may run a very rich A/F ratio. Either can trip a CEL.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 508
    My suspension is creaking. Not very loud when driving, but I hear it when backing down a steep driveway, for instance, and can re-create the sound by "bouncing" the left rear side of the car when parked. Do you suppose this is something a little grease could solve, or is something broken? It's still under warranty (2008 3i sedan), but I don't want to take it in just to be told it's a routine maintenance item that will cost a lot. Chassis lube, perhaps, I could get any shop to do that pretty cheap. Thanks for any suggestions.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,763
    I it doing it when the ambient temperature is 40F or below? If so, welcome to the world of Mazda suspension bushings...

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 508
    That may be the case. I will have to pay more attention to the temperature and report back if it still occurs when it warms up this weekend.
  • Owner's manual sais nothing about transmission fluid change. Should it still be changed?
  • Yes it needs to be changed/flushed, if you did not do it at 30K then I would darn sure do it at 60K, and again around 90-100K, then repeat every 30K miles if you want it to stay tip top, if not do it at least every 60K. I have 100K on my 2004 Mazda 3 and I change it every 30K miles, runs as good as the day I got it.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "Yes it needs to be changed/flushed, if you did not do it at 30K then I would darn sure do it at 60K, and again around 90-100K, then repeat every 30K miles if you want it to stay tip top, if not do it at least every 60K. I have 100K on my 2004 Mazda 3 and I change it every 30K miles, runs as good as the day I got it."

    Hmmm, I'm thinking that I have a problem with the above statement.

    1) While a transmission pan drop, filter change and a top off with fluid may well be a good idea every 30,000, it does NOT seem to be recommended by the Mazda engineers that designed and built our cars.

    2) As a general statement, the flushing of automatic transmissions is a VERY BAD idea and has been known to kill many-many transmissions shortly after such a "service" has been performed. As far as I know, there isn't a single manufacturer from anywhere in the world that recommends flushing the automatic transmissions that they put in their cars.

    While I've been wrong before and could certainly be in this case, I rather doubt it. Want to prove me wrong? Cool, I'm always willing to learn; please provide links and citations that support your recommendations.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,763
    I drain/refill the ATF in my X3 every 50K; I think that's a reasonable interval for a autobox in a street driven car. As for a transmission flush, I can't see that it's needed.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Many (most) manufacturer's no longer have transmission fluid changes in the maintenance schedules. In the old days it was typically 30K mi, but they now use long-life synthetic fluid.

    I think suggesting that the trans fluid still needs to be changed every 30K mi, is similar to suggesting that if synthetic motor oil is used, you still need to change it every 3000 or 5000 miles or whatever you would do with conventional. I don't know if the new transmission fluids are truly "lifetime" but changing every 30K is likley overkill.

    My plan is to maybe look into this issue and see if some sort of new consensus on synthetic trasmission fluid changes has developed when we get to about maybe 75,000 miles. Since we do not put a lot of miels on, by that time our cars will likely be at least 10 years old.
  • Last night I had my first real issue with my Mazda3. Ive got 110,850 miles on it. As I was driving down the street, the car acted as if it had lost power then recovered and repeat. THe RPM's were going from practically 0 to 4. My dad first thought that there was moisture in the gas tank. We drove it to Auto Zone so they could use their machine to give me a code as the check engine light flashed a few times. The code that was given was PO303 Cylinder misfire detected in #3. So, I bought some spark plugs and my bro installed then took for a test drive. He said when he was getting on the highway it jerked a little bit, but not to the degree as before and then rode like nothing was ever wrong with it. However, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it for a spin - same thing - acted like nothing was wrong. When I Got home he disconnected the battery to see if the check engine light would come back on after it was reset. It didnt. I drove it a bit today without any issue, but that was very scary! I know nothing about cars and I called the dealership. They told me that if its driving fine now, to wait it out to see what happens because it was going to cost $115 to put it on their machine plus 2.5 hrs of labor. Has anyone had this happen to them? Any suggestions?
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