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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Has anyone found an adaptor to convert 2008 (I am sure other years as well) to take spin on kinf of filter instead of the cartridge?
  • moozmoozmoozmooz Posts: 3
    Mazda3 auto won't start in park because it doesn't know it is in park ie P light not on. Of course it is in park. I have to put it in neutral to start it. Can sometimes start in park if I wiggle the stick around enough to find the park "sweet spot". Is there an adjustment for this. I took apart the console and couldn't see anything obvious. Anybodt else with this type of problem. 2004 mazda3 auto
  • crowheartcrowheart Posts: 36
    My wife and I were test driving a 2009 Mazda 3s Touring tonight. This is how my experience went. The salesperson wanted us to do a test drive. The lot were they kept their inventory was about 2 miles from the dealership, the lot was secured. When we got there the salesperson brought with her a little battery jumper. When she got to the car we were supposed to drive she had to jump it, She said the cars sit to long and need to be jumped many times. Then we had to drive to a gas station with the car on empty so she could put in 10 bucks worth of gas. My wife who was driving the car was driving with the autostick in M instead of D (the selectors are so close together) I thought she had it in drive as well.The trans/engine was whinny all the way back to the dealership by the time we got there we could smell burning. The salesperson told us the burning smell was normal that it was from an oil coating on the engine from the manufacturer. I didn't believe this for a minute.

    I like the car and after my wifes debacle I drove the car in the proper gear and it drove nicely. The salesperson wanted us to take the car home for the night. We agreed but when we got back out to the lot the battery was low and the car would not start. She was going to jump it again. We left, but agreed to come back tomorrow.

    What a bad first experience with Mazda!
    Did my wife screw up the trans? If we actually bought the car would the trans later act up.
    What about the battery situation has anyone heard or experienced anything like that at a dealership?

    Am I crazy for still wanting to buy this car? Any and all advice would be appreciated...Thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    It is not uncommon for lead acid batteries to discharge over time.

    Look on the door jamb for the manufacture date. It will tell you approximately how long the car has been sitting.

    If the battery is completly discharged, it will take a few long highway drives to charge it up completly, or the dealer should put it on a charger to fully charge.

    A typical lead acid car battery that has been discharged beyond the safety threshold will not charge ever again, since the PbSO4 pellets fall out of the Pb mesh. It will need to be replaced. Luckily, it will be covered by the warranty and will probably be done before delivery.

    As to trans, didn't the high revs alert anyone in the car that it was in the wrong gear?
  • halserhalser Posts: 20
    I have a 2006 Mazda 3s, with the 2.3 and a 5 spd. Its a great car! I think the whole thing sounds fishy, You are looking for a new car. You would expect problems with used ones. When I was looking there were a lot of dealers here in NJ. I would look for a new dealer with a quality car!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    The part about the "oil coating" is probably true. Cars shipped from overseas typically have a protective coating to fight corrosion during the sea voyage. It does take awhile to wear off, and it can be smelled during that time, especially if any has been sprayed on the exhaust system. It usually wears off in a week or two of daily driving.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 791
    The hot/oily smell is probably legit. I've test driven new cars and noticed a smell similar to how it smells after you have an oil change and the mechanic spills some oil on the outer parts of the engine and it has to burn off. Driving a brand new car at a constant, higher rpm (in Manual mode) could exacerbate the smell.

    So, while the situation was less than ideal, the car was probably not faulty....That said, you should NEVER buy a car if you don't feel confident and secure in the purchase! Go drive another Mazda3 at a different dealership. Actually, you could drive the 2009 and 2010 models back-to-back. Hopefully, you'll have a much better experience.

    The only potential harm done to your test vehicle is driving the car at a constant speed/rpm for a prolonged period of time. During the first 250-500 miles (the "break-in" period), you should not drive at a constant speed and/or rpm for any extended period of time. I had a 200 mile trip back home when I purchased my '06 Mazda3 back in 12/05. It was all highway and I alternated driving speeed limit, 10mph above and 20mph above speed limit in 10 minute increments....probably overkill.

    For your peace of mind, DON'T buy the specific car that you test drove. Tell them you want a different one or go to a different dealer.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Posts: 52
    My Mazda developed shaking during braking at 18K miles. Brought it to the dealer - charged me $150 for resurfacing the front rotors. I used to have a 96 Protege and over the life of that car I had pads and rotors replaced more than once, but never did that car have its rotors warped to the point of shaking...

    Also, at 18.5K miles, while creeping in construction traffic on I-95 I suddenly heard a scratching/scraping sound and a lamp on the panel went off. Scared crepes out of me at first, but after a couple of seconds I realized it was power steering light. Power steering indeed stopped working. Pulled the owners manual and it suggested trying to restart the car. Thankfully, the traffic had come to a full stop so I did not even have to pull over. After restarting, the light went away and power steering was restored. The car has been good for the last week or so, but this was not the most encouraging experience of owning a car that is barely over a year old...
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    heard a scratching/scraping sound and a lamp on the panel went off ... I realized it was power steering light ...After restarting, the light went away and power steering was restored.
    Check under the car for any sign of damage. Once I ran over a speed bump a little too quickly and that bump damaged the underside of the car which became evident by a slow leak of the power steering fluid. You could also mention it the next time you bring the car in for service.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Posts: 52
    Thanks, autonomous. I will definitely bring that up the next time I am at the dealer.

    I did check the PS fluid and it has stayed at MAX all the time, so I do not think there is a leak. In my amateur opinion, this must have been an electrical and perhaps not unusual glitch in the system, since troubleshooting of this exact situation is even mentioned in the owner's manual... Hopefully, this will be a one-time occurrence.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Hopefully, this will be a one-time occurrence.
    Agreed. Happy trails! :)
  • mazdazedmazdazed Posts: 34
    Does anyone know the model number and manufacturer of the 5 speed manual used in the 2009 Mazda 3?
  • stacylimstacylim Posts: 1
    I have been chasing a creaking noise for weeks - it sounds like it is coming from the area where the seat belt attaches to the car - I still can not exactly ensure where it is from.

    I have lubed everything. Unfortunately, it still doesn't work, it always comes back.
    I do not know how to fix this problem....does anyone know how to resolve it?
  • jandrjandr Posts: 4
    My red 08's stock tires/wheels appear to be scraping the paint off of the inner part of the rocker-panel trim pieces. I travel on a couple miles of bumpy dirt road every day but not at breakneck speed. Anyone else experience this problem?
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    Get the adaptor from your Mazda dealer, its the filter housing used on the 2.0 it bolts right on. no mod necessary
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Posts: 52
    It is a known thing with a number of Mazda3s, for which there is a Technical Service Bulletin. Bring it to your dealer and they will fix it for you.

    I have the same noise residing in my seat buckle, but since the creaking noise only happens intermittently and mostly at around 40F, I usually forget about it by the time my car is at a dealer for an oil change.
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Posts: 126
    My driver seat is having some abnormal wear and tear. The lower area where it supports my back - on the left side soft plush black area - the fabric surface is getting a lot of fuzz and linen pop up.
    Anyone experiences that? I only have the car for about 2 months. I am thinking taking it back and get them to replace the seat.
  • roger341roger341 Posts: 59
    Started to notice a short squeaking noise when clutch is released while changing gears.

    Not coming from pedal itself.

    Clutch fluid ok.

    04 with less than 30,000 miles. Just wondering if this could be serious. No slippage of any kind or any other abnormality while shifting, just this odd noise.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,870
    It's probably just a squeak coming from the pedal assembly itself rather than anything wrong with the clutch. I've occasionally had a similar squeak on almost every one of my cars since 1980 and it always seems to happen when the weather is changing from colder to hotter or drier to wetter, something like that. And it's always on the release of the clutch pedal. The good news is that it has ALWAYS gone away after a short time, although it does drive you crazy wondering what's going on when it first starts up.

    It IS hard to pinpoint the sound, but having checked more than once to try and track it down and finding nothing wrong, the only conclusion left is that some part of the assembly is rubbing just right, under the right conditions to create the squeak.

    I've averaged about 175,000 miles on each of my cars with a couple going over 230,000 and have had no clutch issues at all on any of them. If the squeak was "something", I certainly gave it a chance to turn into a problem and it never has.

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  • abchin486abchin486 Posts: 78
    I have the same problem....

    but my warrenty is over:( Sad thing is, it started at about 26K and i never had time to bring it in. I am at 47K now....you think they will still fix it?
  • almattialmatti Posts: 164
    Just got a new 2008 M3 s Touring. Settled on it although I was shopping for a new 2009 s GT 4 dr sedans. None left in my metro area. Anyway: Should I apply commercial Scotchguard to the "premium sport cloth"? I had a 2005 Mazda 6 with the cloth interior (it was totalled in an accident in 2007) that was not wearing to well. Anybody have thoughts on this. Does it help?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Should I apply commercial Scotchguard to the "premium sport cloth"?
    It could help resist stains and spills; I sprayed my 2002 Mazda Protege5 seats and they still look new. Test it first on a part of the cloth that is not readily visible to ensure there are no surprises.
  • halserhalser Posts: 20
    I have a 2006 Mazda 3 S. It has 44k with the 2.3 and a manual transmission.
    I changed my oil 2 times using Mobil 1 synthetic oil 5w-20. I just came across
    instructions for a 2004 Mazda 3 with the 2.3. It mentions replacing the oil pan drain plug crush washer. I don't remember the washer. The instructions that I used did not mention this. Does this apply to the 2006?
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 791
    The '07-'09 cloth pattern is different from my '06 s Touring 5-door (the '06 and before had black with blue checks or black with red check pattern). The material is almost like a nylon, not very plush but holds up VERY WELL. Any stain (so far) can be removed with a wet cloth and a tiny bit of Dawn detergent, if the damp cloth alone doesn't work.

    If the '08 has a similar type of material, I wouldn't waste my time/money Scotchguarding it. It looks better than any of my Hondas did at 3yrs and 70k miles!

    The carpeting is a different story...at least on my model. My heel wore a hole thru the floormat and then thru the actual carpeting underneath (to the metal/insulation on the floorpan) within two years. I just bought the "Premium" floormats and they're holding up much better...but there's still a hole underneath the driver's mat....irritates me a little... :mad:
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 791
    Just curious, have you changed the oil/fluid in your manual transmission yet? I think it's "recommended" at 45k miles. I went to 50k or so before I got around to it, though.
  • halserhalser Posts: 20
    I have not changed the oil/fluid in the manual transmission yet. I have been changing the motor oil and filter every 7500 using the Mobil 1 5w-20.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 791
    I've only owned Hondas (and Acuras) in the past. They were all manual transmissions and I used the same motor oil in the transmission as in the engine (Castrol Syntec for the past 12 years). But the Mazda manual transmission requires 80-90W Gear Oil...I'm not sure why the difference?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I wouldn't waste my time/money Scotchguarding it
    I did not regret my $8 investment in money and 10 minute investment in time (interior sprayed once in 2002 and again in 2005) when the occasional accident happened (as when my dog got car sick). Cheap insurance.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,446
    But the Mazda manual transmission requires 80-90W Gear Oil...I'm not sure why the difference?

    It depends on the design of the transaxle. I change the transaxle oil in my MS3 every 30K because it sees the track every now and then.The cars that are street driven only get an oil change every 60K.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 791
    For the first 20-months and 48k miles, I commuted 70 miles daily in Atlanta gridlock. One day, I counted the number of shifts I made one-way to work- 217 shifts in 35 miles!

    I try to follow the "Schedule 2 (extreme conditions)" maintenance schedule whenever possible. Thankfully, the car (and the driver) have a much easier commute now! :)
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