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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair



  • I probably should have added that the letter came from Mazda Canada and specifically referred to "reports received have been isolated to a few Canadian cities ", which they don't name.

    As mentioned they also suggest "if you have not done so already, you may wish to consider the purchase of a shock sensor alarm system", for which Mazda will "rebate to you up to $100 towards the purchase and installation...". This offer is valid until March 1, 2008.

    I'm waiting for the call from my dealership but if I havn't heard from them in a couple of weeks I will call them.

    As for the after market sensor system, I don't plan on getting one....any car can be stolen....thieves can defeat any system. The Mazda's already include an engine immobalizer which at least keeps the amateurs away..the professionals are going to get the car no matter what system you have...just my $0.02..
  • That's very true about anyone being able to steal it if they want it. Thanks for heads up about the letter, and let us know how it all turns out and what you end up doing about it!
  • Mazda's 3 year Roadside Assistance Program has run out on my Mazda 3. Has anyone in Canada tried to extend this program and if so, what did Mazda charge you for the extension.

    Not sure if Mazda will even allow you to extend. GM did it for a GM car I owned a number of years ago for a nominal annual fee.

    What are my other Roadside Assistance program options (CAA ??)
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The CAA program is probably the better value.
  • Ordinarily you would be right except I forgot to add that I have to cover the family, essentially four drivers and since the CAA membership covers individuals and not cars I'm looking at about $300 + for all four of us,,,,Is this still cheaper than what Mazda would charge for extended coverage for the car ??
  • i just got my car broken into last week, same dent, just under my window...and what a piss off. if it wasnt for the mess they left from emptying out my glove compartment, i would have never noticed!!! how can it be so easy and nothing is being done??? ur posts are from 2006 which really disappoints, has nothing been done since? the cop that called me back regarding the theft (or vandelizing) said that mazda is on their way to getting a recall letter out. when i called my dealer, they confirmed that they were aware of the probem and there was in fact a recall...i will just keep busting til i get it fixed! kind of erry when you think that when i bought the car, it was voted car of the year in terms of security, and now it's the yr's most stolen car...i could just imagine the field trip the insurance will have with this! :mad:
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    has nothing been done ... mazda is on their way to getting a recall letter out

    See post 4196.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    bought new rain ex wiper blades because the ones that came with the car were horrible. However, no matter who puts the blades on they (primarily the driver side) constantly fall off. Every time I get in the car I have to pull the wiper blade to tighten it up before hitting the road otherwise it will fall right off

    The blades should snap into place. Show it to your local mechanic the next time you need service. The Bose blades I use are excellent and durable. I have used RainX, but only the liquid applied to the windshield.
  • :( well my wife traded in her 2005 mazda 3 for a 2008 scion xb. i wouldn't have even thought of looking at an xb but she wanted to. it's got a 2.4liter/158hp camry engine, and it handles surprisingly well, so i guess i can live with it. the air blows real well too, even on 1. so, good luck friends.
  • I am not quite sure what you are trying to say here... I know they are suppose to click, and they do but they will loosen up and then fall off, thats why I keep pulling them tight. I think the wiper arm is bad. My uncle who is a mechanic said that I need a tool to tighten up the J hook part, for example like squeeze it in to make the gap smaller so the blades fits more tightly and stays in place. Does that make sense. Also, the RainX is a brand of wiper, I'm not trying to use any kind of fluid just a straight up wiper blade. Someone let me know what they think.
  • I have an '07 Mazda3 with 12000 miles and the transmission fluid is brown! it already looks like dirty motor oil, dealer said this is normal and I should change the tran. fluid "whenever it looks like it needs it". The owners manual says nothing about changing transmission fluid, it's not even in the maitenance schedule! Am i the only mazda owner with this problem?
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 790
    I have an '06 Mazda3 s 5-door that I purchased new in 12/05. It has 48k miles on it, mostly highway. Back around 5k at the first oil change, I realized that it was almost a quart low on oil. The oil 'consumption' continued and I had to add a quart around 2500-3000 miles after an oil change to get me to the 5k mark where I usually changed it. The dealership where I bought it assured me that one quart per 3k miles is considered normal. I just made a routine of checking the oil at each refueling and topped it off as needed. There was never a drop of oil in my garage, parking spot at work or anywhere in the engine compartment. No sign of oil leaking into the combustion chamber either (no exhaust smoke or smell).

    Then last week, as I merged onto the expressway heading home from work, I started hearing a rattling noise. It seemed to only be under very light acceleration and right around 3000rpm then it would subside. I dropped it off at the dealership near my office the next morning and got a call two hours later informing me that I needed a NEW ENGINE!!! They asked me to fax over all of my maintenance records so they could submit a 'request' for the repair under warranty. I was panicked to say the least, even though I had all my receipts and oil changes were done well within the 7500 mile intervals required in the owner's manual. I felt sure the process would be a living hell and I'd have to fight to get a new engine on their dime.

    I faxed my receipts to them the next afternoon and the following morning they called to tell me my engine had been ordered already! They also told me they had a loaner reserved in my name and were sending their courtesy van to pick me up so I could get it ASAP and keep it for 2-3 weeks until my car is ready.

    I'm very impressed by the way this has been handled. Prior to this car, I had only owned Honda/Acura vehicles. One of my Accords was out of commission for a full week (under warranty, waiting for parts) and the Honda dealer as well as the Regional American Honda representative refused me a loaner vehicle.

    Now I'm just wondering how the new engine will impact resale value?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Now I'm just wondering how the new engine will impact resale value?
    I would think a brand new engine should be a bonus on a car with 48K miles. By the way, what is included in the "new engine"? Is it the engine block? Does it include components like the water pump? In theory, the more new materials that are included the longer the vehicle should last.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    need a tool to tighten up the J hook part
    OK. I understand what you mean. I can see it loosening over time; sounds like time for the vice-grips. If that doesn't work, I'd call a scrap yard or the dealer for the part.

    RainX is a brand of wiper
    RainX sells many products including wipers. I use their liquid treatment.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,030
    Am i the only mazda owner with this problem?

    The problem is that your dealer's advice is essentially worthless. Does the fluid smell burnt? Put a drop on a clean paper towel and check to see if there are any particles in the fluid. If the fluid smells and looks OK I would change it at 30,000 mile intervals, which is what my dealer(Kings Mazda- Cincinnati) recommends for both manual and automatic transaxles.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Hey All,
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3, 2.3L with about 65K miles. Yesterday I was driving down the road and my tranny slipped from 4th gear to 3rd, the AT light came on along with a CEL. I pulled the code and looked at my freeze frame info (engine was at 2200 rpm, and 42MPH at the time) and the code thrown was "P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction". After I pulled the code (I did NOT clear it) and restarted the car the CEL went off and all seems well. I put the car through its paces today and it is driving fine, so I am guessing there is a wire lead to that sensor that is grounding out, or it is just a flakey sensor.

    any ideas? I don't even know where the sensor is located or what the wiring harness looks like. Has anyone replaced a speed sensor on a Mazda 3? I don't want to pay mazda hundreds of dollars to install a little sensor, and I don't want to pay $100 for a code pull "diagnostic" that I have already done for myself...Thanks for the help fellas.
  • Is it the fuel filter? Is so, where is the fuel filter located? If not, any suggestions?
  • Out of curiosity mazdazoom, how did you pull the code? Is it something we can do without a machine? Does it display on the dashboard computer?

    Look forward to your reply,
  • Hi Andy,
    You have to have an ODB II Code Scanner. Now, Autozone usually has these and they will pull a trouble code for you for free. I have a software program that I purchased from that comes with an ODB II adapter. You install the software on your laptop or palm, patch into the car and it will pull ALL KINDS of captured data from the computer. Everything from trouble codes, engine temp, speed, O2 sensor readings, everything. You can even run it REAL TIME and capture info as you drive to help troubleshoot problems.

    Considering most dealers charge you for pulling codes and clearing codes, this thing pays for it self after two or three uses. I have used a handful of times on my own cars, and on lots of friends and family. Any car built after 1996 has an ODB-II scan port, so the applications are many with this tool. Hope this helps, I highly recommend the software.
  • I think Mazda has a problem with their engines!! My 2004 Mazda3 only had 29000 miles on itwhen i discovered a rattling at around 3000 RPM. I took it to my local dealer and they said they would call me later that day to tell me it was finished and i could pick it up. NOT THAT EASY!!! I recieved a call telling me that they would have to keep my car and check it out further. They called the next morning to tell me that it was a lower rod bearing that had spun and they wanted to see my maintenance records. I do all maintenance regularly and personally. I save money and am sure that the job is done correctly. They were not happy with just the reciepts that i gave them for oil and filter purchases. They told me that i would have to buy a new engine and they would not cover it under warranty. What a mess!!!!!!!! I had the engine replaced, because what is a car worth without an engine. It cost me nearly $9,000 and i was shocked that i couldn't find anything cheaper out there, unless the engine had 80-90k on it, what good would those engines do me? I was never happy with the decision and they never offered me a car to use while mine was being repaired, making me very angry. What is the deal with the engines, and how do i keep this from happening again, short of selling my car and moving on? I now own a $34,000 mazda, pretty expensive for a mazda, could have bought an RX8 and went on vacation.
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