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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair



  • dridedride Posts: 139
    Actually it is a manual, so I am sure the clutch will need replacement eventually. Any ideas what that costs to replace? Also, is there anything I am missing that I should be replacing. I've made the decision to stick with it since the M3 has been paid off for three years now, and I do enjoy not having a car payment. I believe since I follow the required maintenance schedule it should give me a few hundred thousand miles.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Also, is there anything I am missing that I should be replacing.
    I checked the reliability information provided by Consumer Reports and the 2005 sedan is listed as "Average" with Paint/Trim being a problem area that is rated as Worse than Average. For the 2005 hatchback, there are three problem areas: Climate system, Suspension and Paint/Trim which are all rated Below Average. Based on this, I think your mechanic's recommendations make sense.

    I am sure the clutch will need replacement eventually. Any ideas what that costs to replace?
    No. Why not ask your mechanic? He might be able to give you a time frame when to expect the repair.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited March 2012
    Recently, I bought from a Mazda dealership a set of silver door side grips & a silver dashboard decorative panel to add a little relief to the black plastic in the cabin.

    Installing the door side grips was a breeze (took under 15 minutes) largely due to the simple & clear instructions included with the parts.

    Installing the dashboard decorative panel was a bit more work (about an hour). Unfortunately, there were no instructions and so I had to rely on a YouTube video which I happened to find by browsing. That video turned out to be an excellent guide. I could not imagine doing this installation without that lucky find of a video.

    Have you added any accessories or made any modifications to your Mazda3 on your own? I'm interested in hearing where people find the information or instructions on how to DIY.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,016

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Perfect ... it's just what I was hoping to find. Thanks roadburner!
  • piper13piper13 Posts: 1
    Should a shift solenoid make a clicking should when you shake it? It is way too high 131 ohms
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    I need to replace the lower mesh grill (between the foglights) on my 2005 Mazda 3. I tried ordering from and the one they shipped does not fit (even though it said it was supposed to). I can not find the OEM part number for this part. The back of the plastic reads, "BN8F-501T1" Does anyone know the part # for this? I've done a bunch of google searches and I can find what the # of replacement grill inserts, but not the OEM #. Thanks for any help!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,016
    edited July 2012
    I suggest trying

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    doesn't the dealer have this part? They aren't always the most expensive option.
  • BMW540BMW540 Posts: 33
    I was driving today when the brake petal got hard and there was little or no response. Threw it into neutral and got the car to stop. After waiting a couple of minutes, the brakes felt ok and I was able to make it home. any ideas? Thanks
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Bring it into the shop immediately; this is not something you can put off.

    Could be the brake fluid or a leak in the brake line or air in the brake system?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Were you driving with the wide open throttle (WOT) for a while? If so, you probably depleted the vacuum from the reserves, and there was no assist from the power brake booster. If you have MazdaSpeed3, then it uses different boost system.
  • BMW540BMW540 Posts: 33
    It's my sons car. I don't believe he was on it hard.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    It's something wrong with the power brake booster or the vacuum supply to it.
  • BMW540BMW540 Posts: 33
    Took the car to Mazda. They stated that the rear components were corroded rotors, Calipers etc. The right rear caliper was sticking and causing the problem and wearing out the pads. They asked if the car sits a lot and I told them of course not as it is a 2010 and has 60 K on it. They first said it needed new rotors and a caliper. I said, why can't we just turn the rotors? In the end, they agreed to that. I stated to them that this shouldn't happen, especially a caliper in California and could we get some help. They did what ever they could internally and said to call Mazda consumer help. By the way, their service mgr. said he had not seen this before either. I called Mazda and spoke to a rep. She was having computer problems but took all my info and told me the warranty was 36k. I said this is not a normal problem. She said she would get back to me. 4pm, I called her, she had lost my info, but did remember me. I had her call the dealer. They told the car needed a front brake job. Wrong, I said. Service mgr called her the next morning. and told her what the actual prob was.Then I received a dropped call from Mazda which I returned twice trying to contact her and left messages. Finally the third time they put me thru to her, she again said, wear and tear. And their is no supervisor to speak to. Not a good experience
  • I am looking for a Mazda dealer that has a good and quick service department in Southeastern PA or Western NJ. Anyone have any recommendations?

    The dealer I purchased my car from has an atrocious service department, so I need to find a different place to have my car worked on. Having the car in the shop for a week just for a diagnosis of a very minor problem, and then a few more days just to have the vehicle fixed is unacceptable to me.
  • scwmcan - not an anomaly.

    My 2010 2.5 GT has been extremely reliable and it was an early build of the new body style.

    2.5 years old (sat on dealer lot for 7 months before I snatched it up) with just over 34k miles.

    7 oil changes (1 extra break in oil change @ 2500 miles)
    1 air filter
    1 cabin filter
    2 remote batteries
    1 set of wiper blades
    1 set of tires

    Thats all she wrote. Total cost of above maintenance @ dealership (minus tires) over this time ~$485.00.

    Does have a few creaks when the temperature drops to 40 and below but other than that tight as a drum and besides for normal wear and tear you would still think it was a new car.

    Look forward to many more years with her.
  • fooshoo:

    Try - I have had good luck finding good dealerships with that site.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    there's some puzzling "memory" problems, after DIY battery replacement on my 2010 Mazda3s GT Hatch this evening:
    -- I tried the owner's manual instructions for re-associating the Advanced (keyless) Keys with the Memory Power Seat positions (1 2 3) and it does not seem to work. Nor does the owner's manual instruction read quite the same way I recall the dealer salesman showing its setup on the day the car was new 3 years ago. Anybody remember?
    -- the auto-up and auto-down (2 switch clicks) on the driver door power window does not seem to work anymore; it now behaves just like the other 3 windows.

    Both these are real bummers for me, loving those gadgets. Who's got solution advice?

  • Have 2005, 3, 5 door, has 125,000. When I would turn to the left or let off the gas ay slow speeds there would be a loud knocking, thinking it was something in the suspension or tire rods or ball joints. Further investigation I replace front struts also put new bushings and anything else that goes along with suspension. No more problems for about 2 months, then, after 2 days of steady rain and driving each day the knocking came back. Took it to a mechanic I deal with regular and he found a Tech Alert that said the is a problem with front wheel bearing getting dry and sometimes rusting and with no ;lubricant you will hear a binding or knocking noise. He said it is not recommended to use standard bearing grease because of the ABS. We put a spray lube on the bearings and the knocking seemed to go away for a short time (couple of hours)It was still steady rain all day. The bearings looked and felt fine.
    Any recommendations on how to resolve this issue.
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