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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

1606163656698

Comments

  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    It only happened once, mind you I havent been driving it much. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It's part of the pollution control setup.
  • slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    I took some people out on the car last night.

    The problem with there being no support under an area of the rear carpet is that every time someone gets out of the back seat the non-supported area is exactly where they put their foot when exiting the vehicle. Pushing the carpet into this 1" deep void causes the carpet to flex and pushes the floor mat up under the seat. :confuse:

    If it's supposed to be that way - it's a ridiculous design. I just can't believe there's not supposed to be something rigid under the carpet there.

    If someone could please just check their car and see if it is the same way I'd really appreciate it. If it is, I've got to come up with a solution - maybe velcro strips on the bottom of the floor mats to keep them from moving around so much.
  • cajungreekcajungreek Member Posts: 17
    I am at 990 miles right now on my 5-door and will hit 1000 almost on the nose when I take the car to the dealer this evening for new front brake pads and a new driver-side mirror. I was planning on having them change the oil at the same time before going onto the recommended 5000 miles between changes.

    My concern is that the dealer told me that the 3s come with a blended synthetic oil in them. Knowing that synthetics are not good for engine break-in, should I let this oil go longer before the change or go on and do the 1000 mile change?
  • roger341roger341 Member Posts: 59
    I noticed that the passenger seat goes further back than the driver's. Is it possible to move the driver's seat track back further? Problem is, my right leg presses up against the sharp edge of the center stack and after a couple hours it really gets annoying.

    When I'm in the passenger seat, it definitely moves further back than the driver's.
  • cajungreekcajungreek Member Posts: 17
    I checked my rear carpets during my lunch break and found the same. My rear carpets are stretched taut over the rear floor pan, not on it. A good inch of play when pressing down on the carpets.

    Looks like this is an "undocumented feature". NOt something I would ever think to check in a sales scenario. Who would expect that the carpets aren't resting on the floor pan?

    A bigger concern for me than the floor mats moving would be someone's foot punching through the carpet into the void below it.
  • slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    Really appreciate you checking that. It's odd isn't it??? The carpet (quality / installation) is the only real complaint I have about the car.

    Velcro sticks like crazy to the carpet - so I figured I'd apply some of the "hook" portion of the Velcro to the bottom of the mats and it would keep them from sliding around. No double sided tape I've found though will stick to the bottom of the mats so I'm not sure how to adhere the Velcro strips to the mats... superglue maybe?
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    From what I have read it is suggested not to add full synthetic oil until aleast 4 to 5,000 miles after the engine is broken in. Instead of synthetic oil I use a good grade dino oil and add a can of Molyslip(read the directions). They themselves recommend not using their product until the engine is broken in. Hope this helps.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Well let me start off with this subject as it is getting to summer driving and we will be using our A/C again. Today I did use my A/C as the temps here was pleasantly warm. The outside temp was about 10F. Not a barn burner but the inside cabin was hot because the car was sitting in the sun. So decided to use the A/C for a few minutes just to see if it is working after sitting unused for the last 5 months. The Temp out the vents was 78F with the A/C on at 3. All the rest at normal settings as well. After about 10 minutes of driving it was still the same temp. Got home, let the car idle and noticed the compressor was only on for 5 seconds before shutting off. Last summer 10 to 12 seconds. Maybe the lower outside temp was causing the compressor to shut off sooner? Will see what happens when it gets hotter out. Still wondering why the temp out the vent is 78F when the outside temp 10F and A/C on???? :mad: and :confuse:
  • cajungreekcajungreek Member Posts: 17
    Thanks nifty56.

    I'm not thinking of moving to full syn yet. I was told the motor came factory-filled with a syn blend which made me wonder if the motor will take longer to break in properly on the first batch of oil. If so, then I was wondering about whether I should go on and change the oil now at 1000 miles or wait until 3000 or even a full 5000 to purge out the factory-filled oil.
  • cajungreekcajungreek Member Posts: 17
    I'm not taking it in until tomorrow now. Any sage advice on the oil question?
  • slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    What year is your vehicle? I've got an '06 and it was around 70F yesterday. Sitting in the sun for a few hours the black interior got fairly warm - the A/C was ice-cold coming out of the vents and cooled the car down pretty quick.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    First oil change at 4000 miles as advised by my dealer. And at 7000 miles another change and added a can of molyslip.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Should have added the year, forgot...mine is a 05,2.3,Gt,GFX,Sedan, 35% tinted windows all around.
    From what I have read the A/C units in the 06 are the same as the ones in the 05. How long was your compressor cycle? Mine 5 seconds and probably due to the cooler outside temp, 50F compared to your 70F
  • cajungreekcajungreek Member Posts: 17
    I went on and told them to change the oil since they have the car for the day anyway and I had a $5 off coupon. Get all the tiny little casting and machining residues and metal bits out. I'll go at least 3000 on the second fill, if not a full 5000.

    My dealer told me that there was no specific advise from Mazda on the question. It was a matter of personal taste - but that many people do and he sees nothing wrong with it. It certainly can't hurt.
  • expert2expert2 Member Posts: 5
    modock:
    thank you for this information. is this the one you ordered? I wanted to make sure we look at the same thing. I hope it is OK to put a link here.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOKYA-SILVER-RACING-PEDALS-MANUAL-MT-UNIVERSAL-TY- PE-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33700QQitemZ8049970808QQrdZ1

    do you have atx or mtx? i measured my pedals especially gas seems shorter than Nokya's. How did you do the installation? Also I am curios to know how you managed the foot rest section.
    Thank you very much
  • cajungreekcajungreek Member Posts: 17
    I have the Grand Touring with the Auto Climate Control and whenever I turn it on, the A/C indicator lights irrespective of how high I set the temperature.

    The Owner's manual implies that the two should function seperately:

    "With the AUTO or fan control dial ON, press the A/C switch to select the air conditioning (cooling/dehumidifying functions) on or off."

    However, turning off the A/C turns off the Auto mode on the climate control.

    I would expect that when it is cold outside and I set a higher cabin temperature that the Auto system would be on but the A/C indicator would be off or could be turned off without turning off the Auto mode.
  • modockmodock Member Posts: 55
    Yes that is the one that I got. It installs just fine over the existing pedals. If you send me an email I'll send you some pics. I just added some velcro to the back of the pedal and it sits in place just fine.
  • richmlrichml Member Posts: 156
    Does someone offer just a deadpedal, without the other three pedals?
  • slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    Checked coming back from lunch today and it sounds like it's doing about 10-second cycles. It's around 68F here today. The air coming from the vents is very cold - I'll have to round up a thermometer to check the exact temp for you.
  • slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    Mine does this too - there's a bunch of info on this over at www.mazdaiii.com forums. It's normal - just set the temp to whatever you want (I leave mine on 72F) and it will do what it needs to do on its own.
  • cajungreekcajungreek Member Posts: 17
    Thanks a lot. It's confusing as the manual does not provide much info!
  • slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    No kidding about the manual! If they took out all the lawyer mandated stuff it would be a lot easier to navigate... and be about 1/4 the size...

    This is the first car I've had with automatic wipers, lights, and climate control. It all takes a bit of getting used to. I think I finally have most of the navigation system figured out though... very cool stuff.

    I've only got 600 miles on it but I just love the car! I can tell already that the Velocity Red is going to be a b**ch to keep clean though.
  • roger341roger341 Member Posts: 59
    Let me try this one more time.

    Does your passenger seat go back further on its track than the driver's seat?

    Is there a way of making the driver's seat go back further?

    Thanks!
  • richmlrichml Member Posts: 156
    On our 2005 5-door the manual passenger and driver seats go back the exact same distance.
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    I purchased Rubbermaid floor mats at Target for $19.99, they stay put on the floor in the back. Most people that ride in my back seat do comment on the strange "gap" under the carpet. In any case, I can live with it.
  • slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    Thanks dride - I've got some Velcro stips coming with industrial VHB adhesive that will hopefully adhere to the rubber backing of the stock mats... if they work I'll let everyone know.
  • gtrplyrgtrplyr Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, time to share my experience with my one year old 3. First off the only issues I have with the car are some anyoing rattles. I know this issue has been beaten to death but my a/c is good and I live in Arizona. That said I finally brought back to dealer regarding noise in glove box, sounds like a wiring harness being flexed over bumps, they told me they did not hear it, but tightened the glove box. I am quite ammused because there is nothing to tighten, I am a pro mechanic and told them that when I dropped off vehicle, hence why I don't bring it in for routine service. This brings me back to why most dealers have the rep they do as far as customer satisfaction. If I can't find a problem, I dont snow people. Anyway the noise is quite consistent and can be heard even with radio on. Has anyone else had similar noise? If you open glove box, while driving noise is gone, seems like should'nt be hard to fix and I refuse to take it appart since still under warranty.
  • bluetailbluetail Member Posts: 5
    Try feeling for the air duct immediately beneath the glove box. That was the source of my rattle.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Still have the sqeaky brake issue in the morning. Saturday was a cool damp wet, been raining day, so figured I will get the god awful brake noise but to my surprise next to nothing. That night I washed the car drove it home, parked it in the garage. Next day it was Sunny and warm and the brakes squeeled like a stuffed pig. The opposite seemed to happen usually when damp and cool it does it. Dealer won't do a fix. Car has 10600 miles and exactly one year old.
    05-Sedan-2.3 Canada
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Thanks for the input about the rattle could be from air duct beneath the glove box...
  • david6david6 Member Posts: 75
    Took my wife's car in to the dealer Saturday for the 15,000 mile service (2005 Mazda3s 2.3 sedan, 11 months since purchase). Mentioned the first-thing-in-the-morning brake squealing issue (happens virtually every day on ours, regardless of weather) and asked if there was any TSB for it. They said no, but scuffed up the brake pads for us. We'll see if that makes any difference.
  • davesbrewdavesbrew Member Posts: 45
    Probably too late now, because I'm sure you passed the 600 mark, but I had this same question after receiving the advice re: a honda odyssey( or crv? can't remember). I was told to vary the speed to help the cruise control calibrate. So on the highway, I would vary my speed 10 mph higher and lower than the target whenever I'd remember.
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    Mine squeal as well in damp conditions, and occasionally I get a clunk when I start backing out in the cold. But the brakes perform very well when needed, and the car turns like it is on rails.
  • zukezuke Member Posts: 1
    Since the weather has gotten nice, my instrument cluster does not light up right away in the morning. When it was winter and cold, there was no problem, but now that the weather is getting nicer, the instrument cluster will light up when I put the key in, but when I start to drive the cluster will flicker and then go out. After about 15 or 20 minutes the cluster will then work fine. The odometer and trip odometer work fine it is only the tach, the speedometer, the fuel gage and the temp gage. Has anyone else experienced this problem. All my fuses are fine and like I said it has only happened now that the weather is warmer. I have a 2004 Mazda3 5 door, and this is the first time that I have owned the vehicle that I have experienced any issues.
  • lordpastylordpasty Member Posts: 11
    Recently bought a 2006 Mazda3s GT 4 Door (Manny Tranny)... Luv the car, but...

    I noticed yesterday that my driver's seat didn't spring forward when I pulled the lever to do that. Looked like the handle there was broken (went up and down kinda wierd). It magically started working again today. Told my wife about it and she said that it seemed that her side didn't spring forward to well when she pulled her lever either. I swear we're not that fat. ;)

    Am I being too sensitive here, or has anyone else had a problem like this?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I think most new cars have a statement in the owners manual - to not drive a long time at one speed for the first 500 or so miles - but it has nothing to do with the cruise control.

    The reason has more to do with the length of piston travel. At low RPM the piston does not go up or down as far as it does at high RPM. Although the difference is very small it is a good idea to not have all of your first miles at the exact same RPM - this gives the piston a chance to travel across its whole range of travel during break in.

    I think the only time it would really be a problem is if you bought a new car and then went right out and drove several hundred miles down the freeway with the cruise control set at 60 MPH (or whatever). This of course could be the case if you buy the car from a dealership that is a few hundred miles from your home. But is not much of an issue for most people.

    I do think it is a good idea to spend some of your break in miles at highway speeds - rather than all city driving.
  • expert2expert2 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same issue and I asked this same question on different forums as well and the answer I got is that almost all have the same issue. I have been told to set it and forget it :):)

    I haven't talked to the dealer though, I will in the next month or so and will post the answer here.
  • smoothpsmoothp Member Posts: 2
    When I'm playing a CD with random/shuffle turned on, if I press the "next track" button on either the steering wheel or head unit, the CD goes to the next track in order, and random mode turns off. That is, if I'm on track 9, and hit next, I go to track 10 (instead of the next random track) and then the CD plays in order from there.

    Am I doing something wrong? Every other CD player in the world, when you're in random mode, takes you to some kind of next random track...
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    Mine is the same way, now I use an Ipod, killer shuffle!
  • lordpastylordpasty Member Posts: 11
    "I have the same issue and I asked this same question on different forums as well and the answer I got is that almost all have the same issue. I have been told to set it and forget it"

    I'm just glad to know that: A) My car isn't broken and B) I'm not crazy. :)
  • harddrivetharddrivet Member Posts: 90
    I now have 49K miles on my 2004 Mazda3i with 205 55/15 tires. I need to get new tires because these are a red condition according to Mazda.

    I am looking at a few different tires as I found the OE Toyo Tires to hydroplane during rain. The models I am cosidering are:
    Dunlop SP Sports
    Kumho Ecsta's
    and
    Yokohama Avid's
    Anyone have any thoughts on these?
    I have looked at Tirerack dot com and the reviews are all over the map. I want something that looks cool, and delivers good performance.
    Thanks.
  • sbowden99sbowden99 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I've searched the forum and haven't found this problem, so here goes: my wife's Mazda3 squeaks.

    Specifically, it emits an intermittent squeaking (imagine an old school speedo cable squeaking, or a belt squeaking). The squeaking goes away when the accelerator is pressed, but returns when released.

    It is uncorrelated with HVAC operation or vehicle speed. It sounds like it's coming from the speedo/tach area. The dealer is mystified but sympathetic. (BTW, in Colorado Springs, go to Bob Penkhus NORTH. Avoid BP Motor City at all costs.)

    Any ideas on how we can get rid of the mouse in the dash?

    cheers,
    --Seth
  • gantwgantw Member Posts: 1
    Seth,

    I had a similar issue with my '05 Mazda3. I heard an intermittent squeak from the gauge cluster area that would go away only when I pressed down on the top of the dash shroud that covers the cluster. I had my Mazda dealer investigate the problem. They removed the gauge cluster shroud and the cluster itself, and applied foam tape to the top of the cluster and the inside of the shroud. I think the issue has been resolved. Since the repair I have put 3,000 miles of rough road driving on the car and no longer hear the squeak.

    Best of luck with your issue. I know how irritating rattles and squeaks can be -- my Mazda's interior is full of them.

    -- Gant
  • itworxbroitworxbro Member Posts: 1
    I know this sounds a lot like a previous post, but I promise it's a little different.

    I have a 2006 Mazda 3 S Grand Touring and I just recently replaced the stock stereo. After replacing it, I noticed the temperature went to Celsius. So After reading these posts, I found out how to change the Ambient Temperature back.

    Now the Ambient Temperature is Fahrenheit and the Automatic Climate Control is Celsius. When I have the stock radio in, it changes back to Fahrenheit.

    I tried leaving the power on and just swapping the radios to keep the temperature reading at Fahrenheit. It worked at first, but after turning the car off and back on, it went back to Celsius. Does anyone know if there is a way to fix this? Or am I stuck setting my A/C in Celsius and reading my Ambient Temperature in Fahrenheit?
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Member Posts: 352
    Just popping in here to say that A does not necessarily imply B. :-)
  • steph_stantonsteph_stanton Member Posts: 14
    Hey I have a question...I just got my '06 Mazda 3 back from the dealership. They replaced my whole audio unit due to the clock not keeping proper time. My question is what is supposed to light up...it just doesn't quite look the same. I know that the area around the volume button is illuminated, as well as the 2 dials for the heat/ac and the direction, but what else should be? Or am I just going crazy?
  • lakerman1lakerman1 Member Posts: 1
    mine made that popping sound in the cold, just as you touched the brakes, now that its warmer the sound has gone away, but occasionally its still heard even when I take off, Check the jack in the trunk it will really pop if it is loose and hits the side,any other ideas?
  • silverthornsilverthorn Member Posts: 3
    Hey i have a 2004 mazda 3 and need to change the spark plugs. I noticed that you took your spark plugs out, i was wondering where they are located??
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Your engine has a black plastic cover over it - it pulls right off - just pull up on the cover right next to the oil fill cap.

    Once the cover is off the plugs are right on top - there is a nut/stud that holds the spark plug boot in place on each plug - once this is removed all 4 plugs are easy to get to -

    Very minor - the left nut/stud that holds the plug boot in place has a white plastic clip over the threads - this clip holds a wire harness in place - it must be removed before you can get to the nut/stud - it just pops right off -

    You will need a spark plug socket (I can't recall what size but you use your new plug to determine that you have the right size before you start taking things apart) - plus an extension - because the plug is a few inches down (like inside a well).

    Good Luck!
  • waygrabowwaygrabow Member Posts: 214
    Today I was told that my Mazda3 A/C was low on coolant. Initially was 48 degrees at outlet; after recharge was 38 degrees at outlet. The recharge did make a difference; I can actually feel cool air coming into the car now. Of course, last time I reported it was not working the "diffuser plate" was installed, and the time before that I was told that they found and fixed a leak. At least they are still trying.

    The car is superb in every other way; it would be nice to have the A/C actually functional.
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