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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I meant 1000-1500 miles.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    ahightower, yes I've been using Mobil 1 in all of my vehicles for many years. I guess old habits die hard, especially when you've had good success with something. I just found it interesting that the color does turn dark relatively quickly, especially compared to my wife's vehicle, a 2004 Lexus RX330 where it seems to stay light and clear until it's time for the next change. My Infiniti FX45 (V8) is somewhere in between her car and the Mazda 3. I've also heard that the oil taking on a dark color doesn't mean it's lost its lubricating properties necessarily, just like the moderator here said. So I'm not going to worry about it and just stick to the 4500-5000 mile intervals.

    As far as the filters are concerned, I've stuck to the manufacturer's OEM and have had my cars serviced at the dealership, at least for many years. I used to change oil myself, but I got away from it maybe 15 years ago. On the older cars there weren't plastic shields to take off and put back on, and the filters were pretty accessible - most cars now are kind of a pain and my time is more valuable too.

    Getting cooler here in Minnesota, won't be long before I have to put the winter wheels & tires on...used to do this myself too! ;)
  • usd21228usd21228 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 Mazda 3 with 8800 miles on it. The CEL light came on. I took it to dealer. The dealer report says Scanned EGI System, cleared code and performed drive cycle test. That cleared the light for a day and it is back on. I can hear some squeaking sounds from under the hood after i shut off the engine. What could be the root cause.
  • usd21228usd21228 Member Posts: 3
    I have the rustling sound in the dashboard for my mazda 3 2007 with 8800 miles on it. It is annoying. I also got the CEL (check engine light) come on so I advise you to take it to dealer.
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    I would take it to an Autozone or local parts store, most of them have an ODB II code scanner and can pull the code for free. This way you KNOW for sure what the code is, research the code a bit, and then go back to your dealer armed with some knowledge about your possible problem. Have them pull the code, explain it to you, run the fix and explain that to you as well. Sometimes you have to really stay on top of the dealer because those techs can be pretty lazy and skip things. If you get the code you can always post it here and we can help you with it as well.

    Good Luck.
  • harddrivetharddrivet Member Posts: 90
    My 2004 Mazda3i has loose top cloth door trim on both front doors. I have tried glue and it did not help, does anyone have any idea's on how to fix it? Has anyone else had this same problem on the Mazda3i ?? :confuse:
  • usd21228usd21228 Member Posts: 3
    Update, I took to dealer for check engine light and complain for hard idle

    Dealer Analysis
    Scanned E.G.I. and commented too lean at idle bank one. Checked for vacuum leaks, checked sensors - all ok. Fuel trims -20.37 (short term) tapped on purge valve and got reaction from motor. Replaced purge valve, performed drive cycle test and cleared codes.

    What is a purge valve, how much does it cost and can anybody explain in simple terms what the dealer analysis means?
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    Well I believe the purge valve is part of the EVAP system (Evaporative Emission Control System). The purge valve controls the flow rate of fuel vapor and is an important piece to the EVAP system. I am not sure of the cost, I would guess between $50 and $100 just for the part, although this should be covered under warranty if you still have one. As far as the actual analysis too lean on bank one could be too much air or fuel, which would be why they looked for vacuum leaks. But if that purge valve could open or close more or less than you would have a EVAP problem. How many miles do you have on the car again? Did the dealer cover it?
  • gretsch6120gretsch6120 Member Posts: 48
    Is there a cabin air filter in the Protege5? I remember there was a 'how-to' on replacing this posted some time ago. It was a fairly involved process located around the glove box.

    I can't remember if this how to was for the protege5 or Mazda3? We have both -- anybody have this link?

    Appreciate it!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Is there a cabin air filter in the Protege5?
    No, there isn't (at least not on mine).
  • gretsch6120gretsch6120 Member Posts: 48
    thanks autonomous! The how-to in question must have been the Mazda3.
    Appreciate it,
  • chuckjr1chuckjr1 Member Posts: 3
    My Mazda 3 sedan just had the brake rotors turned and new pads installed up front. I noticed a gap, large enough to insert a toothpick, between the pads and the rotor. I'm NOT a mechanic (just a mechanical engineer) but, on EVERY car with disk brakes I've ever owned, the pads always touch the disks, thereby keeping them clean. Just a slight rubbing--that's all.

    I went back to the Mazda dealer that installed them, and the head technician said that the gap is supposed to be there (first time I heard that).

    Anyone out there have any comments, suggestions, or data that might correct my misinformation? Thanks!

    chuckjr1
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    I am with you, I have never in all my years or car ownership had pads that did not touch or come within a micron or two of touching the rotor :). It sounds like the pads were not set correctly and or they did not adjust and bleed them properly. Might be worth going to a different mazda dealership, maybe go look at the other cars on the lot and point out to them that those cars don't have a toothpick sized gap. I currently have 2 mazda 3's, a hatchback and a sedan, and neither of them have a gap like that. Good luck!
  • conallconall Member Posts: 91
    >>Mazda 3 manual transmission in May 2004. In other words, you bought the first year of a new model. As Consumer Reports has noted there is a risk in doing so even with reliable brands like Honda and Toyota.<<

    Even the newer MazdaSpeed 3's have the 3rd gear problem. It is indicative of the whole model line and the related European Focus. :lemon:

    I'm going back to Audi.
    I'm trading my Mazda in for one of the more reliable Audi A4 turbo quattros.
    Several of my friends and relatives own one these.
  • mkatajamkataja Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a strange issue with my blower fan on my 2004 Mazda 3..When I first turn on my car the fan won't work and will randomly come on after a few minutes. Then it may shut off and come on again. Do I need a new blower motor? When the fan does come on it seems normal it's just that it won't come on when I want it to. Any help would be appreciated!
  • energyzer8energyzer8 Member Posts: 6
    Hi there, I currently have 2005 Mazda 3- 5 doors. I had the same problem. Mazda actually change cabling for me since it's still under warranty. (Cabling for AC controller) As yourself, mine would be AC issue. My AC will be on and completely shutoff and in the morning smoke comes out.
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    My son bought a brand new Mazda 3 S with the 2.3 engine and manual transmission in Oct 2005. I bought it from him in July 2008. The car now has 38k miles. The rear brakes needed to be changed at 35K. The only problem that he had was that a purge valve needed to be replaced. The valve only lasts about 10k miles and has already been changed three times. It has always been covered under the warrantee but it&#146;s the aggravation of having the car towed to the dealership. The check engine light comes on, there is a strong gas order, and after 100 miles the car won&#146;t run anymore. I have changed the oil using Mobil I 5W-20. That is what is recommended in the book. I see
    Some of you used Mobil I 5W-30. What made you decide to use the higher grade?
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    I use Mobil 5W-30 mainly because that's what they sell where I buy it (Costco). It still flows very well at cold temperatures plus I figure it may offer slightly better protection when it's really hot. Why Mazda recommends 5W-20 is a bit of a mystery to me.

    That is discouraging to read about the purge valve problems you're having. We have around 28,000 on our '07 and so far so good with this and everything else.
  • leowinleowin Member Posts: 18
    Hi,

    I took my 2005 Mazda 3 hatch for regular oil service ( odometer 44,000 miles) to a local Mazda dealer and they came back to me with 1 "Must do" & 2 "Recommended" services. The "Must do" service was changing the rear brakes, rotors and pads costing around C$500, "recommended" were changing Air filter and Cabin filter. My lease on the car is ending in another 4 months ( I drive app. 800 miles a month ). Before I took the car in for the service, I never felt any decrease in brake performance. Although I dont doubt the integrity of the dealer, my question is: are there any telltale signs for brake fade? I am using the car mostly in cities, I dont drive or brake aggressively, how many miles the original brakes last? Any replies will be appreciated.

    Just for info, I asked the dealer to just do the oil service for now and came out without opting for any of the extra services.

    Thanks.

    Leo
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    I have an 04 hatch and my rear brakes were toast at about 35000 miles (major problem at first with brake dust all over the rear wheels too). The rear brakes on those car to my knowledge don't have the tell tale squealer so you have to look at the pads. With the spoke design of those wheels it is really simple to just look in there and see how much pad you have been the metal backing and the surface of the rotor. I am sure you need an air filter if you have never changed it, and since your lease is up in 4 I would not worry about the cabin filter, save the money. In fact $500 is pretty stiff for a filter and a brake job, you can install an air filter yourself in 5 minutes at a cost of about $20 bucks and a brake job at a local shop (Midas or Christian Brothers, get some local references) should be able to do a full brake job on the rear which would include pads and resurfacing the rotors. HOWEVER, if your rear rotors are trashed because the pads are so worn then yes, it will likely cost $400-$600 to do the complete job with replacement rotors. Good Luck.
  • gretsch6120gretsch6120 Member Posts: 48
    >>were changing Air filter and Cabin filter

    I didn't think Mazda3's had Cabin Filters? Where is this?
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    They do have a Cabin Filter, I think some of the 2004 3's did not have one, mine does and it is located behind the glove box and to the left. There are some how to's on the net and I think elsewhere in this forum about how to change it. It is not TOO hard but a bit involved, but I would rather take the time to change it then trust the dealer to do it...those guys stick you when ever they get a chance.
  • leowinleowin Member Posts: 18
    Mazdazoom,

    Thanks for the info. I too feel the price quoted to me is way too high. And, I will also check with the dealer if the quote given to me is including rotors or not.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I will also check with the dealer if the quote given to me is including rotors or not.
    Ask the dealership if they will resurface the rotors or replace them with new ones? Also, if they are replacing the rotors, are they using OEM or aftermarket parts? Then call an independent garage and ask them for a quote.

    I paid under C$800 (before tax) to have my Mazda dealership to replace all 4 rotors and pads on my Protege5 last year. They beat the price quoted by an independent garage.

    Resurfacing modern rotors is a short term solution as the rotors will likely need to be replaced shortly thereafter.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Resurfacing modern rotors is a short term solution as the rotors will likely need to be replaced shortly thereafter.

    Amen to that. There's barely enough metal to turn them once. They're so prone to heating up and warping it's almost not worth doing at times. :sick:
  • mor734mor734 Member Posts: 1
    I can't remember how to change my ambient temp setting back to fahrenheit. I disconnected the battery for a couple of hours and now the ambient temp is set on celsius. How do I get it back to fahrenheit?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    After a little digging online...With the radio on, press and hold both the Power and Media button for at least 5 seconds. When you release both, the display will change to Fahrenheit.
  • gretsch6120gretsch6120 Member Posts: 48
    Is this for a Mazda3? Does this mean I can CHANGE to Celsius this way?
    I have the GT with the on board computer info button.
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    A piece of road debris put a crack in my lower grill, or the black plastic part (I have an 05 hatch). I'd like to replace this myself. Has anyone done this? How difficult is it? I see they are pretty affordable on ebay, but don't want to waste the money if it is a difficult replacement.
  • jdh008jdh008 Member Posts: 3
    I woke up this morning to find that someone or something had hit my back bumper and caused a nice size dent in the back bumper. The dent covers most of the bumper from the top to the bottom but is only a few inches from side to side. The dent doesn't continue up onto the trunk or onto the underside of the car so it looks like only the bumper will need the fixing. Any idea how much it will cost to replace that part when I take it in to my dealer? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It will need a new skin most likely and then needs to be repainted. Probably $750.

    There are mobile repair shops that go from dealer to dealer and they can often fill the dent with some toxic plastic goop and repaint it with an air brush, and that would be half as much or less and will look good---for a while only, however, maybe a couple of years. Your dealer might suggest this option if you are trying to save money or not make a claim on insurance. I've done it both ways, and been satisfied in both instances. The quickie repair was not perfect, so if you are fussy-fussy in terms of little specks or overspray or slight variations in texture, etc., then don't go there.
  • roger341roger341 Member Posts: 59
    Have 04, bought new and it continues to have an intermittent problem. It always starts fine when cold, but sometimes will not re-start if engine is off for a short time.

    Turn key and nothing, no crank, no noise, nothing. Acts like battery is dead. But after I remove the metal ring around the key, it starts instantly.

    Dealer says they have to replicate problem and of course it never does it then.

    I replaced the ring with a rubber band in order to attach the remote, but that didn't help. Seems as if I have to detach everything and just use the key for it to start.

    No big deal now that I know how to deal with it, but no one seems to figure out why it's happening and I seem to have the only M3 with this problem!

    Any ideas?
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    Depending on your key type I would guess that it is either the transponder inside your key is damaged and you should replace the key. OR you could have a flakey ignition switch, the dealer should be able to figure either one of those out. Just my guess...
  • Bobzda3Bobzda3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I just turned on my wipers to clear some ice and the driver's side arm doesn't move! The passenger side works fine but apparently the ice and snow may have stopped the other one from moving. It is free to move but it doesn't under it's own power. It seems to me that the linkage may have come loose or something. Does anyone know what the linkage looks like and more importantly how easy is it to access it to diagnose the problem? I really appreciate any help you can offer! Thanks!
    Bob Kremer
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I've heard sporadic reports that Mazdas have a tendency to "spin" the axle inside the wiper arm end when the blades are iced to the windshield. If that's the case with your car, you're going to need to retorque the wiper arm, and then from here on out, you're going to need to free your wiper blades from the ice BEFORE turning the wipers on.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • wildthingwildthing Member Posts: 25
    I had this happen to my '05 Mazda 3 GT....Driiver side blade stuck to the windshield one winter day and next thing I know, only the passenger side was working.....brought it to the dealer thinking I had burnt out the wiper motor but all it turned out to be was a broken pinthat secures the arm to motor...seems to be designed to break to save the wiper motor...good design to me...in any case, delear reolaced the pin and it was fine...don;t recall if they charged me for it, but if so iI'm sure it wasn' t expensive at all.
  • jnap0527jnap0527 Member Posts: 8
    I have an '05 Mazda 3S sedan, 55000 miles on it. I am having a slight clunking/knocking noise from the driver-side front area - I was suspecting is was a failing ball joint or tie rod, but upon having the dealer check it, they said both the ball joint and tie rods were fine on both sides of the car. Now that it's a few months later, the knocking/clunking noise is getting worse...I'm guessing it may be a bad strut (??).

    Is there anyone else who has been experiencing this same issue, and is there a diagnosis to what it is? I really don't want to go back to the dealer and get charged a half hours labor if nothing is actually wrong.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Is there anyone else who has been experiencing this same issue, and is there a diagnosis to what it is? I really don't want to go back to the dealer and get charged a half hours labor if nothing is actually wrong.

    Join the club; my 2007 Mazdaspeed3 had the same symptoms at 25000 miles. It was a bad LF strut- which ended up causing me to miss several track days at Watkins Glen :mad:
    And just 1000 miles later the turbo seals went south...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • TmpltnPckTmpltnPck Member Posts: 1
    2008 3s GT 5-dr (bought new in July), and with the onslaught of the cold weather there is an incredibly annoying rattle/rubbing type sound that appears to be coming from the bottom of the windshield. What I actually think it is, however, is the plastic piece running along the base of the windshield just under the back of the hood. It doesn't appear to be loose, but I live in Chicago and with every little bump (of which there are thousands during the course of even the shortest drive) I hear the rattle/rub. I've had similar hood/windshield rattles with other cars during extremely cold weather ( < 10-15 F before anything similar in my old '01 Accord with 100k miles), but this started when it dipped below 40. Love the car so far, but I shouldn't have to turn up the stereo to drown out this annoyance. Have an appointment scheduled for an oil change in the next couple of days and will ask the dealer, but wanted to see if anybody else has experienced anything similar.
  • gretsch6120gretsch6120 Member Posts: 48
    Does it make the noise when your wipers are on? It could be your wipers. Wind could be hitting them causing them to vibrate if there isn't enough force holding them in place on the windshield.

    Have someone else drive please as you investigate as not to steer off the road. ;)
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Mazd issued a TSB for your problem. It works for some cars but not others. Like every other MS3 problem, I'm sure it will afflict my car eventually.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • mariodmariod Member Posts: 28
    My 2005 3S does the same thing ONLY when it's cold outside. When ever i'm approaching a stop right before the car comes to a complete stop i'll hear a small rattle that sound like it's coming from the PSGR side glove box windshield area of the car. It only does it for a second right before the car comes to a complete stop. and ONLY when it's cold. Strange...

    If you get your fixed and or figure out what the TSB # is please let us know.
    Thx.
  • NyamebaaNyamebaa Member Posts: 1
    I have been impressed with the way the Mazda 3 handles and have fallen in love with a 2004 Mazda 3, 5 speed standard, with 85,400 miles on it.

    I am wonders what you guys think, should i go ahead and buy this car. It is in excellent conditions engine, body and structure. I am wondering what to expect from a car with this miles on. I know these car can go over 200,000 miles with proper car and maintenance.

    HELP !!!!!!!!!!!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    have fallen in love with a 2004 Mazda 3, 5 speed standard, with 85,400 miles on it

    2004 was the first year of the Mazda3 and I believe there were some issues. You may want to check Consumer Reports Used Vehicles ratings to see what the areas of concern were. In any case, I would have your local mechanic check the car out to ensure that everything is fine.

    Best of luck!
  • ylzylz Member Posts: 45
    Hello all. Buying a 2009 Mazda 3 Hatch this month and I had some questions. I am thinking of buying a cold air intake for more power but my friend who owns a 2008 says I'm nuts. I have test driven this car a few times and I know it has power but what about the highway? I frequently drive over 80 and am I going to have trouble passing people, making two lane passes, etc...?? Do I need this intake? Also, does the intake really help that much? I have heard mixed reviews about it. And I can't seem to find one online for a 2009, I only see for 2008 models and below. It's the same engine and should fit, right? Thanks.
  • ylzylz Member Posts: 45
    Hello all. Buying a 2009 Mazda 3 Hatch this month and I had some questions. I am thinking of buying a cold air intake for more power but my friend who owns a 2008 says I'm nuts. I have test driven this car a few times and I know it has power but what about the highway? I frequently drive over 80 and am I going to have trouble passing people, making two lane passes, etc...?? Do I need this intake? Also, does the intake really help that much? I have heard mixed reviews about it. And I can't seem to find one online for a 2009, I only see for 2008 models and below. It's the same engine and should fit, right? Thanks.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    A cold air intake alone won't add much-if any-power to a modern normally aspirated motor. And even a turbocharged car will rarely pick up more than 20-25 hp.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    Right, as roadburner stated, it won't make much of a difference. A cold air intake under the right conditions MIGHT give you 10 HP tops, even that is barely enough to notice. As for power, I think these little cars are fine for passing, just drop it a gear and punch it, it will get there quick enough. If you are looking for something to plant you in your seat and jump up to 100, then you should look at something with a V8 like the mustang. I have a 2004 hatch and it does me just fine, my friend has a mazdaspeed and that little thing can really move. Best of luck.
  • joem5joem5 Member Posts: 201
    Waste of money for a N/A 2.3
  • sdell08sdell08 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 mazda 3 80k i have had it only about a year. only problem i've had was changing the spark plugs after i bought it.. earlier today i turned my car on and the battery light was on. I called my dad he said to drive it maybe it was just cold.. so i was driving and my power steering light come on i could harldy turn my wheel around the corner. I pulled to the side of the road put my car in park. then withought pulling my e-brake up. my brake light came on. Which then i couldnt move my car at all it wouldnt move my car completely locked up. I took it to get the alternator and battery checked they read fine. and the battery light turned off after i got a jump start. I went home and charged it for a little bit. turned the car on and the brake light is still on??? Any ideas to what is going on please??
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