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2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    The Edmound.com invoice price is $19350...I dono where he get the extra $150 from...?

    It's the regional ad fee charged dealers by Mazda. It's a legit part of the cars cost. they range from $150 to $350...If you read the details on edmunds they point out the ad fees vary per region and are not reflected in their pricing..
  • But also remember to make them show you on the invoice that they are charged for it. If there is no fee on the invoice, it's ok for them to charge. If there IS a fee listed, they cannot charge you twice.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Whether a dealership pays for something or not has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING - thats right ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the price they charge a specific customer.

    Sure it is a good story to tell if you are selling cars - we MUST charge you this fee because WE MUST pay it - seems fair - but thats just not how things get priced.

    Here is what EDMUNDS says -
    If an advertising fee appears on the invoice, it is an actual cost that the dealer paid to the manufacturer when buying the vehicle. In other cases dealers may choose to write in their own ad fees on the consumer sales contract. However, in either case these advertising fees are just one example of the dealer's cost of doing business. As with all such dealer-itemized fees, consumers should treat as "negotiable" any advertising fee they are asked to pay

    Sure - the dealership must - in the long run - have more revenue than they have expenses - if they want to stay in business - but that does not mean they need to get it from you.

    Supply and demand & the ability of each party to negotiate determines the price paid - this is just a plain simple fact.
  • Thanks all for the advise!
    I guess I should continue to try to get rid of that extra $150 ad fee he try to add to my "invoice price". At the same time, he is actually willing to email me the "drive off price" as listed below:

    Selling Price $19,500
    documentation 45
    state tax 1514.74
    state tire fee 8.75
    zoom-zoom coupon -500
    (upon presentation)
    "out the door price" $20,754.49

    This list has a few things I am still not clear about or need to work on.
    first is that extra $150 show on the sale price althogh he said he is selling me at invoice price.
    Then there is no title and licence fee listed...I dont think he is so nice that include that fee somewhere already...?
    And then I had no idea there is a state tire fee...maybe its a regular fee? @.@~
    So consider I just get $500 zoom zoom coupon from a friend, the price seem to be not bad...but those added charges and not listing title charge is kinda fishy.... :confuse:
  • Yes, their price is correct as it already includes the DMV fees :

    Selling price + tax + dox fee + tire fee

    $19,500 + $45 + $1514.74 + $8.75 = $21068.49

    deduct zoom-zoom coupon (treated as rebate)

    $21068.49 - $500 = $20568.49

    Add DMV fees:

    $20,568.49 + $186 = $20754.49

    Notes:
    - The doc fee of $45 is standard in California
    - tire fee is legit (state imposed)
    - the DMV fee of $186 is right for this price (I paid $184
    and my selling price was $18.9K)
    - The $500 zoom-zoom coupon is treated as a rebate, and
    as such as deducted after sales tax is added

    The only question is about the price of $19,500 which is $150 higher than Edmunds's invoice price. The Mazda imposed advertising fee of $150 is legitimate, and I was told about it as well. Sure, the price is always nogtiable because dealers make a profit even selling at invoice or below and I heard of people getting their Mazda3 for Edmund's invoice or even a little less, but overall $19,500 is a very good deal. As I said the rest of the number are OK as well. It's a good idea to get this breakdown in advance so you know they won't try adding any charges and fees at the last moment (which sometimes they try).

    Even though this deal is fair, if you don't mind negotiating, you can try to offer them $20.5K OTD and see if they go for it. Good luck
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Your numbers don't add up


    There is an extra $186 someplace - sounds like about the amount of license and title fees - maybe they just forgot to give that line item, just a guess.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    user1235 post seems right on target. I don't know about your state - but in Texas they deduct rebates and trade in value before calculating sales taxes - every state has its own rules.

    The everything is negotiable is true - but everyone needs to balance out the time & effort they spend against the chances of getting a lower price.

    You could spend all day trying to get them to drop the $150 ad fee - maybe end up with a $75 reduction - only you can decide is it worth a day of your life sitting in a car dealership for $75 -

    Overall the price you are getting is pretty good - you will always see a post from someone who will say they payed a lower price - can't feel bad about it -
  • After reading through this thread and using the "fax attack" approach (see www.fightingchance.com), I just signed the papers for a 2006 Mazda3 S Touring w/manual transmission, moonroof, moonroof deflector, pinstriping, and door guards for $17630 plus taxes, tags, and license. Invoice on this is $18134, so that works out to $500 under. I didn't have any coupons or rebates. They tried to tack on a few extra fees ($100 for document preparation, etc.), but threatening to walk out works wonders. Very satisfied with the purchase so far.
  • Yeah, I'll try to talk it down the ad fee but if definitely wont spend too much time on it...cant image sit in dealer all day long for that @.@~ i just need to make sure dealer dont add any other fee there when I actually show up.
    So now that I am kinda ready to go this dealer to check out/get this car....since everyone said the price is pretty reasonable, not the best ever but pretty good already....one thing edmound recommend ppl to do is to bring an approved loan from E-loan first to make sure not get rip off on loan interest by dealer...so has anyone use E-Loan before? I read their policy and agreements, sounds like a pretty simple and straight forward process..but has anyone sucessfully use it before?

    another things is...ehh..little embarassing to ask..so if I decide to take a car for the price they offer..what exactly do I need to check before I sign the paper and drive the car off the lot? This might sounds really silly but I want to be sure I check everything a new car might have problem with before i drive it home.
  • First of all check out the website mazda3forums.com. It has a LOT of useful info about Mazda3 in general and also about the buying experience, including sticky threads about things to check when buying the car.

    Af for E-Loan, my friend used it and it is pretty simple, they send you a check that you just fill out the amount on. But E-Loan is not cheap, and the APR they advertise on the site is reserved to the people with perfect credit. The APR you will actually get will be much higher and probably not as low as what you can get from most credit unions and even some banks. One of the best online credit unions is penfed.org which offers new vehicle loans for 4.99% APR.

    As for taking delivery of the car, first thing check the mileage - it should be below 50 and optimally below 20 because sometimes cars which sit on the lot for a few weeks might have been used by the dealership staff or had many test drives, and I prefer to get a truely brand new car, and not something that a dozen people already drove and has 200 miles on it. Also check for any visible external defects like dents and scratches. Remember that the equipment on the car is under warranty so if anything is wrong with it, they will have to fix it, but dents and scratches they can always say that you caused it if you don't check before taking posession of the car.

    Another thing is the issue of dealer add-ons that they will try to sell you. Most commonly this includes the extended warranty, the lojack, window etching, paint guard, leather guard, etc. DECLINE all of them - you can always purchase them later and at a much cheaper price elsewhere. Of the above, only extended warranty is really worth it and only if it comes reasonably priced. You can buy a 10 yr 100K miles 0 deductible extended warranty for around $1000, but the dealership will probably offer this for a lot more. In any case, you can BUY IT LATER over the phone or online, most likely for a lot less, so my advice is to decline that at the dealership. For more details on where you can get extended warranty for a good price, search mazda3forums.com.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    It appears that car loans in the US are higher from Mazda dealers than some banking insitutions; the reverse is true in Canada. My 2002 Mazda Protege5 had financing arranged by Mazda at 1.9% for 36 months; the rate went down to 0% (!) a year and half later when the Protege was being morphed into the Mazda3. Needless to say the bank rates were higher. The current Mazda3 has very reasonable loan rates in Canada.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    The important thing to understand is getting the purchase price is the start of the process of buying a car - not the end.

    So you have successfully negotiated the price of the car - now you get to negotiate the financing.

    The truth is many new car dealers make more off of finance than they do selling cars. Here is how it works - just making up numbers for an example.

    If a bank will give you a $20,000 loan at 6% for 60 months your payment would be $386.66 a month. But if the dealership can get you to agree to an 8% interest rate then your payment goes up to $405.53 - thats ONLY $18.87 more a month so many people think its not that big of a deal - but over 60 months thats an extra $1,132.

    Many car dealers will tell you that THEY will finance you - 99.99999% of the time that is a lie - they will write the loan - but another company is actually going to loan you the money. This is not a big deal - but when the car dealership "sells" the 8% loan to the finance company they get paid MORE than $20,000. The finance company will discount the loan (in my example) at 6% so they will say that a $405.52 payment for 60 months at 6% is worth $20,976.15. The dealership just made an extra $976 by selling you a higher interest rate loan. The higher the rate they SELL YOU the more they can get for the loan. Many car buyers relax after they get the price of the car negotiated - and think - glad that is over - then they get handed over to finance and end up with a very high interest rate loan and give back all the money saved negotiating a low price on the car.

    Finance will also try and sell you an extended warranty - (plus some other add ons) they will be more than happy to HELP you by just adding it in to the loan - they will be real nice - they will say something like - the PAYMENT will only go up by $32 a month - gee thats only about $1.00 a day more - and if the computer goes out in the car and you are out of warranty it can cost THOUSANDS of dollars to fix. Isn't it worth about $1.00 a day to not every have to worry about that!

    BTW that $32.00 increase just cost you about $1,900 more in payments and increased you loan by about $1,600.

    Not saying all extended warranties are bad (most are but not all) - but you need to look at that decision on its own.

    This is why you need to find out - from your bank or Credit Union what a fair interest rate is for you.

    Then you need to treat the finance as a negotiation.

    They will never start with their best interest rate - so by knowing that you can get the money from the bank at 6% or whatever - that gives you a target to negotiate with. If they give you a lower rate than the bank then you just saved some money.
  • Just a counter point regarding extended warranties - in fact they could be a very smart investment if purchased at the right price. The factory bumper to bumber warranty for Mazda3 is for 4 years/50K miles. But if you are planning to keep the car for 10 years or so (this is quite common for Mazda), you can bet some things will break and need to be replaced, especially on the grand touring trim which has a lot of electronic and electrical gizmos like tire pressure monitoring system, climate control, sunroof, etc. It's just a fact that things break need to be replaced especially after the first 5-6 years, and that happens even in the most reliable cars like Honda and Toyota. And it usually costs a few hundred dollars to fix each time it happens. So if you get a 10-year/100K miles extended warranty with 0 deductible, it will covver the next 6 years after the 4 years of the factory warranty. And if you buy it for around $900 your cost per year is $900/6 = $150 per year !!! This is truely cheap because like I said during the 6 years after the first 4 year, you will most likely average more than $150 per year in repairs. Plus you can drive for 10 years without having to worry about any major expenses if things break so you have that peace of mind as well.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    No counter point needed - I said most are bad - but not all -

    IF you really know that you will keep a car for 10 years and IF you know that you will not go over the miles allowed - and IF you get it cheap enough and IF it actually covers the things that break/wear out (will brakes be covered?) and IF the company you buy it from is still in business (never buy an extended warranty from Ed's House of Extended Warranties LTD) and IF your car breaks down more than average it could be a good thing.

    Some will even refund your money under some situations - like if you never use it and change your mind in the first year - or if you total the car out. But some companies just say too bad - and keep your money.

    I guess its just like everything else - shop around - do your homework and negotiate a good price and it can be good. Go into the finance department without doing your homework - and get taken to the cleaners.

    If you would really average a lot more than $150 per year in repairs then there is a good chance the cost of the warranty will be more. Unless the warranty company estimates wrong - way wrong because they will try and price the thing to cover their estimated cost plus make some money. I would say on average you should have LESS cost in repairs that the cost of the extended warranty.
  • I'm talking about the extended warranty offered by Mazda, it's called MEPP TotalCare (Mazda Extended Protection Plan) and includes roadside assistance. It is offered thru a subsidiary of Ford which also offers extended warranty for all Ford cars and other brands. Never buy a third party extended warranty. Like I said you can get MEPP for 10-year/100K miles for under $1000. If you think you will not have repairs totalling at least $1000 in the next 6-year/50K miles after the factory warranty expires, then don't buy this warranty. Otherwise, it's a good deal.

    Even if you sell the car, the extended warranty is transferrable, and is a very important feature that helps sell the car and raise its value. That's because the extended warranty you purchase when the car is new (you can purchase it anytime in the first year of ownership) is not availalbe later when the car is already used, except maybe for a much higher price. So in fact selling a used car which already has extended warranty adds a lot of value to the car.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Sounds good -

    I agree 100% that a 3rd party warranty is not a good thing - unless issued by a very good company.

    Many years ago I bought a Nissan PU - back then the manufacturer warranty was 12 months 12,000 miles. The truck was a demo had very low miles - but had been "put in service" (licensed) by the dealership for about 7 months. So at closing I found out that I had less than 5 months of warranty left - I told them to forget it - was leaving the dealership when they offered to sell me a 5 year / 75,000 mile zero deductible warranty at dealer cost - after an hour of negotiation they agreed to THROW IT IN FOR FREE.

    What a deal - my LUCKY DAY!!

    Well about 3 years latter I had some problems - drive shaft was replaced and the tranny was rebuilt - the bill was over $2,000 - no problem - all I needed to do was send the invoice in to the warranty company - well about a month went by before I heard from them - I got a letter that said they were in bankruptcy - and that they were trying to reorganize the company. I got more letters - about every 6 months or so - some were like little books with very fine print - then one day I got a letter from a law firm that gave me a choice.

    I could settle my claim - which was over $2,000 - for $3.17 - THREE DOLLARS AND SEVENTEEN CENTS - all I needed to do was sign the form and a check would be issued to pay me in full - or If I did not want the settlement I could file some paper with the court or something.

    I think this was the day that I decided that 3rd party extended warranties were not a good thing - EVEN IF THEY WERE FREE.

    I guess you do get what you pay for - sometimes.

    BTW - I tossed the letter in the trash - never even got my $3.17.
  • I'm talking about Mazda's extended warranty:

    http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=shoppingToolsWarrantyMEPP- -

    So DO NOT BUY THE WARRANTY OFFERED BY THE DEALERSHIP because it's either a third-party warranty or it's Mazda's warranty (MEPP) but hugely overpriced. You can purchase MEPP anytime later during the first year of ownership (or until the car has a few thousand miles). You can purchase MEPP from any authorized agent, and if you refer to mazda3forums.com you will find places to buy it for a very reasonable price.

    You will also find people who describe how this warranty saved them thousand of dollars after a few years of ownership.
  • bknybkny Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    I am in the market for a new car. I have decided on the MZ3, but not quite sure what trim yet. My question is: what would be the best time for me to buy the car, end of december or beginning of January? I will need it by mid Jan.

    Also, what do most people feel about the cloth seats in the MZ3, is it worth upgrading to leather?

    Thanks for your help
  • Best time to buy is before the new year. The S touring and gratnd touring are the best values. The grand touring is $1500 more and includes leather interior trim, heated seats, xenon headlights, climate control, auto headlights, auto wipers and tire pressure monitoring. It is also your ticket to get the Bose stereo package (this option is only available on GT).

    Analysis: the leather option indepenedently added to the touring model costs $500 and is worth it because I think the leather is nice and this is quite cheap option for a leather trim.
    So if you're getting the GT, you will be paying $1000 more for the rest of the GT goodies (over the price of leather standalone), which is again a good price in my opinion as I particularly like the convenience of the auto climate, auto headlights, xenons and heated seats. On almost any other car these kind of options would cost a lot more.
    If you like to have a moonroof, then the moonroof+6CD+bose package for the GT for $1100 is a good value. On the touring model, the moonroof+6CD package is also a very good value (I think it's about $800).
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Since the Mazda3 is not a new model I think you can get a good deal (close to invoice) anytime you want.

    As far as leather goes - have had leather seats on our last 6 cars/trucks - planned on getting leather on the Mazda3 until I saw it. Without a doubt the cheapest lowest quality leather I have ever seen on any vehicle - after taking a test drive we decided to switch over to cloth.

    The price Mazda charges for leather in the Mazda3 is very reasonable - but they must be using leather that no one else will buy - it felt very thick and hard - it was also slippery - kind of like the leather that is used when they make wing tip shoes - maybe the sale of wing tips are down so they have an excess quantity of cheap leather.

    After a few months of wear it could break in and be fine - or maybe after a year it will crack - it could go either way.
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