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2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • It is a 5-speed manual. Since the automatic MSRP for the i touring sedan trim is $850 more than the manual, and your price is about that amount above mine, I would say your price is about as good as it gets. If you are getting the trim, style and color you want and they aren't gonna pile on ancillary fees (e.g. if your state does not have a maximum doc fee charge, I would not pay more than $100-150. In excess of that I would consider unreasonable), GO FOR IT!!! All the other dealers (4 totalled) I spoke with looked at my numbers and told me I was gonna get "shiestered". I didn't. Your deal looks great!
  • Regardless of whether what you say is accurate, the LAST person in the world who a buyer will believe (regarding how a dealer makes its profit) is a DEALER!!!

    Why in the world would you tell us how you REALLY make your profit anyway? If you did and was truthful, you should be black-balled from the DEALER fraternity.

    As I said, it really doesn't matter whether you speak truth or not, the moment you mentioned that you were a dealer you lost all credibility. You would have been better off leaving that tidbit out.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    edited July 2010
    As I said, it really doesn't matter whether you speak truth or not, the moment you mentioned that you were a dealer you lost all credibility.

    You need to go back and read my nearly 3,000 posts here about the info that I have given over the years. Once you do that, you can comment on my credibility. Not all dealers are crooks, liars ant thieves.

    BTW, what do you do for a living?
  • Yeah, I'll do that. All 3000 - starting now.

    I work for the National Institute of Standards and Technology (in MD) as research electron microscopist. I may not be as intelligent as you are (heck, I don't even know you), but I DO know two things: the one person I should NOT listen to regarding how I can best spend my money is the one in position to receive it - the other is when a person spends an inordinate amount of effort trying to gain the trust of others, they problably should not be trusted. To sum, respect (personal or professional) is better commanded than demanded.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    edited July 2010
    I actually do not have an issue with anything you just wrote. However, I do not fall within your guidelines. I'm not trying to win your trust, because quite frankly, I could care less....

    What I do have a problem with is the fact that you picked out a small sample of the conversation by which a member posted his "facts" about leasing. I chimed in to dispute his "facts" because he was completely wrong and had no evidence to back up his personal opinions he was trying to pass as facts, whereas I did.

    If you notice, I never disclosed how I make my money, nor did I expose any "trade secrets". I tried to correct his false information he was trying to use in this forum where people come for help and information. If you noticed, there were several people who agreed with my statements rather then his.

    In all honesty, this is not a conversation that should be resurrected. Personal insults are not tolerated, nor are they allowed. You personally attacked me without even knowing me.

    I have never told anyone in this forum how they should spend their money. In fact, I commonly say "if you find it to be a good deal, then buy. If not, then don't buy".

    From now on, I suggest you leave the insults at home. It's quite obvious some dealer has pissed you off at some point in your life, but, it was not me.
  • Actually, I am quite happy with both of my new cars, PURCHASED this year. I don't think negatively of you or other dealers, I simply stated that generally speaking, consumers are not apt to take financial direction from those in line to take their money. It's quite simple - nothing more than that. It's the ONLY point I am stressing here, and it's apparent that you missed it or (like you mentioned) maybe you just don't care. Ironically enough, I would have trusted you more had I known less about you. The moment you mentioned you are a dealer, your position was null - at least with me. Maybe my opinion is not shared by the masses, but that would make for a boring site, wouldn't it?

    Agreement with the conversation between you and sonnyrocker (a conversation sample large enough for the site host to say STOP) is not my issue. I merely did what anyone else on this site has done: used it to either state their opinion or seek information. Your re-hashing of the lease vs buy issue is your last e-mail was all your doing.

    By the by...I am not sure where you feel I insulted you. If I did, I am conpletely and sincerely apologetic. Without going over my past posts, I think I mentioned that you may be more intelligent than I. I would think you might take that as more of a compliment.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I think I mentioned that you may be more intelligent than i

    Well, I will never question your intelligence. I highly doubt I am more intelligent. I just know more about my business.

    We are cool. No need to worry.

    If you ever need advice on Mazda's, please feel free to ask. I'm always available to help. :shades:
  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    hi folks,just recieved a internet quote for a 2010 mazda 3 i touring in auto with no additional options..msrp is $19,576.00 and the quote i recieved was for $18,000.00 plus TTT....is this a fair deal????
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    steven39-

    That is a sale price of about $500 under invoice. Judging from what I have seen in my area, North East, that is about what they are selling for right now. You might be able to do a little better if there is a lot of inventory in your area. Good luck!
  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    nonsense is good
  • nkage487nkage487 Posts: 3
    hi,

    i apologize if this is a newbie question, but i'm a newbie :-)

    can someone please explain the (sometimes significant) discrepancy between the various prices found online? for instance, i'm planning on buying an i touring (4dr auto no options), and i just found the following invoice/msrp figures online:

    edmunds: 17,586/18,775
    autobuyguide: 17,190/18,350

    i have the option to buy using s-plan, so i'm trying to figure out what 'invoice price' i would pay, and thus whether i can do better on my own.

    also, is destination charge negotiable, or is it legitimately standard?

    thanks so much, and sorry again if this is information previously discussed
  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    my girlfriend just purchased recently a 2010 mazda 3 i touring auto for $17,622.00 plus TTT.so the edmunds invoice price is in the ballpark of what she paid.we are down here in south fla so it might also depend on what part of the country your in as well..
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    edited July 2010
    can someone please explain the (sometimes significant) discrepancy between the various prices found online?

    Unfortunately, there will always be discrepancy's. If you plan to buy using the S-Plan price, Mazda dealers have to use that price, which is the invoice price. They are not allowed to change that price. Just ask to see the dealer invoice and you will see "splan" written on the bottom of the invoice, with the price next to it.

    The destination charge is not negotiable. The destination is billed to the car, and the car is always negotiable.
  • gerrygerrygerrygerry Posts: 22
    Hi,

    As a current owner of 3 Mazdas (208/2008/2010) let me tell you how its done. You can find the dealer's cost on this site or www.KBB.com. This will be your starting point.

    You take the dealer's cost and subtract at least $1,500 from that. That is your target price before destination. Then you can allow them to add the destination charge. No window etching though as its a SCAM!!! You can get that done for free at your local police station!!!

    So if the sticker is $20,000 and the dealer cost is $18,000 then you shoot for $16,500. Then add the destination fee.

    I have been buying cars for years at or around $1,500 below the dealer cost. You have to work them over and over again. I bought a 2008 Honda Accord for $1,200 below.

    Get your best internet price from any dealer that you actually dont want to buy from then give that price to the dealer nearest you that you do want to buy from. I negotiate my prices via email all the time and never do it in person.

    Go get em!!!!!!!!!!!
  • smallcar1smallcar1 Posts: 76
    Aviboy,

    I'm considering buying a 3S but I don't want the low profile tires. I tend to hit curbs a lot when parking which is not good for low profile tires plus the 16" wheels absorb bumps better and are better in snow. I care more about a smooth ride than better handling. A couple of dealers told me that I would have to pay for the wheels. As part of a new car purchase can't the dealer simply replace the 17" wheels and tires with 16s for no charge? They can sell the 17s as they will never have been used. The reason I want an S is that the I model with AT really strains to pass on the highway with the A/C on and two people in the car. .

    Also, can the head restraints be moved forward. My back hurts in the 3's seats. If I use aback support it is fine but since back supports are 4.5 inches thick my head is too far from the head restraints.

    Thanks.
  • nkage487nkage487 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the replies everyone, very helpful information. I've started emailing a few dealers and will see what they come up with.

    Cheers
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    As part of a new car purchase can't the dealer simply replace the 17" wheels and tires with 16s for no charge?

    You will be hard pressed to find a dealer to do that. To buy the rims directly from Mazda is very expensive and unless the dealer already has a buyer for the even more expensive 17" rims, then the dealer will stand to lose a lot of money on the transaction. I know I would not buy rims and tires at no charge.

    Also, can the head restraints be moved forward

    They do not move forward. They are active head restraints, so they will not move.
  • nkage487nkage487 Posts: 3
    edited July 2010
    @lazyk - was that $17.5k including ttt? or was ttt additional? that seems like an amazing deal and i'd love to be able to quote it when i negotiate mine.

    thanks
  • smallcar1smallcar1 Posts: 76
    Thanks. Is the suspension tuning on the S firmer than on the I? If I were to purchase the 16" rims and tires and ask the dealer to put them on the S would the S handle bumps like an I or would it still ride firmer?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    If I were to purchase the 16" rims and tires
    Purchasing a new set of rims and tires can be pricey ($1000 to $2000). An alternative may be just to replace the tires and keep the rims; this would be less than half the cost mentioned above. Of course, the cheapest alternative is to keep both until you need to replace the tires (approximately 2 to 3 years).

    p.s. It may also be worth checking to see if the tire pressure is set correctly to 32 psi. Some drivers bump up the pressure substantially (example to 35 - 40 psi). Hopefully, the car you test drove had its tire pressure set properly.
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