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2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    make sure you have a valid PIN number...s-plan numbers are generally not transferable to a 'friend'
  • Mazda 3i touring AT - $17,240 after tax & tags and zoom zoom rebate. No extras features. msrp is $17,450.
  • pete22pete22 Posts: 80
    Well, just to give my dates. My rebate was sent out Oct 7th and the certified letter was signed on the 14th. As mentioned ultimately I faxed a copy of the certified letter to Mazda to someone in Mazda customer service. Anyway he apolized and said I would have to fax him all the paperwork plus a copy of the original ad. I did and just called there yesterday to get the status. He said that they are accepting my paperwork even though its after the end of April due to my proof and its in work (heard that before), anyway no rebate yet. I'll post if it comes or when I here the next story. Hopefully this guy I've been talking to stays around or I'm back at square one. Since now I at least have a name and extension number of someone. Like I said in the past each customer service rep gave me a different story. Even one that said all the paperwork was in order and it was in the mail before the last told me there is no record on Mazdas part of ever recieving it.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    they are accepting my paperwork even though its after the end of April

    Is the April date the expiry date?
  • pete22pete22 Posts: 80
    I meant to say October and made a mistake. Anyway I have been given mixed info even on that in my phone calls to Mazda, at least 2 of them gave me the end of October date, a third said as long as I bought the car before the end of October. So I don;t know but either way don't know for sure if 'll get the rebate. The latest is that it's been aproved and should be in the mail. Will let everyone know wither way.
  • Does anyone here have a 3 s with the automatic? I've always been a manual fan, but recent circumstances have dictated that I am going to have to buy an automatic. I've never had one before, so I'm a bit apprehensive.

    My biggest concern are acceleration from a stop and highway passing power. One of the car mags (MT or C/D) timed an auto at 8.6 seconds to 60, which seems fairly strong.

    Any input? I test drove one yesterday but didn't get to put it thru the paces as well as I'd like to.
  • Hi, I was curious to see if anyone knew about the Katrina Rebates. Here in Louisiana they are offering a $750 Katrina Rebate until 11/30. My question is this:

    Does anyone know if this rebate will be extended through December?

    Looking at making an offer today, but will wait if it goes past 11/30.

    Thanks,

    Bryan
  • Hi all,
    I am a first time car buyer in San Diego. I read through some of the post on this form and did some research on the Mazda3 I like to buy at well. As most ppl suggested, I emailed all of the dealers in San Diego for price quote so I can get an idea before I drive all the way there. Most of the dealer replied but do not want to give me a price although I give very specific describtion: I want a Mazda3 GT 4 dr with Auto transmission with color either red, white, silver or black with no add on. I personally think its a really big range already, I mean I am pretty much saying I am not picky at color at all. Almost all the dealer ask me to go in and talk ...the only one replied to me is El Cajon Mazda. The internet manager told me that he is selling mazda3 at $300 over invoice for all mazda3 he has. I dono if this is a trick to get me in or not...as a first time car buyer..I just finished college last year..going to a dealership is somehow a very scary thing for me..especially I am a girl who really dont know much about car @.@~ So basicly I am terried to face car dealer ...does anyone have any good experience with any mazda dealer in San Diego that I should start try to work with? Any help is appreciated.

    thanks :)
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    $300 over invoice is a fair deal - some do better - but many pay more. The question is what other fees will the dealer try and add on to bump up the price.

    Since the one dealer gave you $300 over as the price - start there -

    E-mail them and ask for a "drive out price" - I like to say I want to know EXACTLY how much I need to write the check for to buy the car - ask them to break it down so you can see the detail - or if you are getting a bank loan - you will need to tell the bank how much to make the check out for. This sounds like a simple request - but in my experience it is something many dealerships don't want to give out - keep after them because you have every right to know what the final cost of the car is before you even set foot in the dealership.

    If they tell you to not worry about it - that they will finance you (one of the most common ways they avoid giving you a drive out price) - tell them you would be give them a chance at the financing - but only if they have a better INTEREST RATE on a loan of 36, 48 60 or whatever number of months you want. You still want the complete pricing detail.

    If they will not take the 2 minutes to give you a drive out price then I would not do business with them -

    Once you get the pricing detail - you will be able to see if the price is REALLY $300 over - chances are they will try and add in document fees - advertising charges - or what ever. ALWAYS tell them you do not want to pay any additional fees - nothing to be afraid of - just be nice - but firm - Since you now have the detail pricing take all the fees off and then tell them - (assuming they have the car you want) if they will sell you the car for $XX,XXX you will come in to the dealership today and pick it up. All they can say is NO -

    You can then shop the same price to several other dealerships - chances are good - one will sell you the car for $300 over with no added fees (except TT&L of course).
  • I just realized that I missed out on this $1000 discount which was sent to me in the mail by Ford. It can only be used by the recipient, and appearantly they send it to people that are leasing cars and their lease is about to expire, so the letter states that you can get $1000 in addition to any other discounts on ford,lincoln,mercury and mazda cars (some models are excluded like mustang but it doesn't mention any exclusions for mazda), if you purchase by Dec 31st. The letter includes a unique claim number which can be used to reduce the price by $1000.

    I received this letter a couple of weeks ago, at about the same time I bought my mazda3 GT manual w/moonroof/bose, but I did not open it before buying the car because it looked like junk mail (envelope says "invitation" only). Now it's too late so it looks like I missed out on possibly getting an additional $1000 off.....

    I still got a very good deal but with this discount it would have been the best deal ever.... Damnit !!!!
  • Thanks so much for the advise!! I will definitely follow the steps and hopefully I will find one with reasonable drive out price.
    I am also wondering about the after sale service. I have seen some ppl's post about how the after sale service is very important and how some dealers might offer free oil change or loaner car after purchase a car with them. So what exactly is the standard service I should expect from a dealer if I buy a car from them? :confuse:
  • Are these transferrable at all?
  • I am thinking seriously abouting buying a Mazda3 or a Mazda5 in January. Does anyone know when the Zoom-Zoom event coupons expire? There wasn't a Zoom-Zoom event that I could get to (the Houston one was cancelled) so I am thinking about buying one off E-bay, but I was also wondering if these were transferrable. If I go to the trouble to buy one, can I use it?
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    Does anyone know when the Zoom-Zoom event coupons expire?

    They expire on 12/31/05...so you must take delivery on or before then to use the zoom-zoom coupon.
  • Those zoom zoom coupons are transferrable. I just get one from my friend and it clearly stated in the back that the coupon is transferrable. :)
  • I think I got a salesman in trouble...

    I contacted both carsdirect and my credit union's car buying service about a 3i AT. I heard back from the credit union service first, so I went that direction. I later heard back from Brookdale Mazda's (outside Minneapolis) Internet Sales Manager in response to my carsdirect request. I emailed him to let him know that I was working the deal with the CU service and was getting a pretty good deal ($200 over invoice, but I didn't tell him that). He emailed back saying he could beat the CU service by going to invoice.

    I let my CU service know that the dealership they work with was doing this, and the CU guy got in contact with the new car manager at the dealership. The manager was able to match the straight invoice price for th CU service, and was apparently really embarassed that the Internet sales guy tried to undercut the CU service. The whole point of the CU service is to take dealership negotiating tactics out of the equation, right?

    Anyway, I'm able to get the car at straight invoice. $16,825 for a 3i Touring with AT and the ABS/Side Airbag package. It's kind of fun when a salesman is unethical and ends up getting me a better deal as a result.
  • After "spam" my local dealers, I was able to get some new results back. One of the dealer told me he is willing to give me for invoice price: $19500 for Mazda3 GT 4dr with Auto. The Edmound.com invoice price is $19350...I dono where he get the extra $150 from...? Dealer said edmound.com's invoice price is approximation and not accurate @.@~ Have anyone else get something like this?
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Tell him you KNOW the invoice is $19350 and you don't want to pay any additional fees. Does the car have some dealer added "options" like wheel locks or special floor mats - maybe?

    Tell him $19,350 plus TT&L

    But really $19,500 - $150 over invoive is a pretty good deal.

    Just be ready - my guess is before you are done with this deal they will try and add something - make you take their financing - buy an extended warranty - or some other last ditch attempt to get you to pay a few hundred more.

    Just be nice about it - but stay firm - no add ons - no crummy fees - and when they say - this is a standard charge that we add to all deals and everyone always pays it - just say no thanks.
  • caylancaylan Posts: 19
    5sp-cargo net -cargo mat- step plate = 18,200 OTD after ZZ rebate.

    DC Area.

    bascially $300 over invoice & 1000 under MSRP OTD.
  • It says it is transferrable within the same household only
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    The Edmound.com invoice price is $19350...I dono where he get the extra $150 from...?

    It's the regional ad fee charged dealers by Mazda. It's a legit part of the cars cost. they range from $150 to $350...If you read the details on edmunds they point out the ad fees vary per region and are not reflected in their pricing..
  • But also remember to make them show you on the invoice that they are charged for it. If there is no fee on the invoice, it's ok for them to charge. If there IS a fee listed, they cannot charge you twice.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Whether a dealership pays for something or not has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING - thats right ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the price they charge a specific customer.

    Sure it is a good story to tell if you are selling cars - we MUST charge you this fee because WE MUST pay it - seems fair - but thats just not how things get priced.

    Here is what EDMUNDS says -
    If an advertising fee appears on the invoice, it is an actual cost that the dealer paid to the manufacturer when buying the vehicle. In other cases dealers may choose to write in their own ad fees on the consumer sales contract. However, in either case these advertising fees are just one example of the dealer's cost of doing business. As with all such dealer-itemized fees, consumers should treat as "negotiable" any advertising fee they are asked to pay

    Sure - the dealership must - in the long run - have more revenue than they have expenses - if they want to stay in business - but that does not mean they need to get it from you.

    Supply and demand & the ability of each party to negotiate determines the price paid - this is just a plain simple fact.
  • Thanks all for the advise!
    I guess I should continue to try to get rid of that extra $150 ad fee he try to add to my "invoice price". At the same time, he is actually willing to email me the "drive off price" as listed below:

    Selling Price $19,500
    documentation 45
    state tax 1514.74
    state tire fee 8.75
    zoom-zoom coupon -500
    (upon presentation)
    "out the door price" $20,754.49

    This list has a few things I am still not clear about or need to work on.
    first is that extra $150 show on the sale price althogh he said he is selling me at invoice price.
    Then there is no title and licence fee listed...I dont think he is so nice that include that fee somewhere already...?
    And then I had no idea there is a state tire fee...maybe its a regular fee? @.@~
    So consider I just get $500 zoom zoom coupon from a friend, the price seem to be not bad...but those added charges and not listing title charge is kinda fishy.... :confuse:
  • Yes, their price is correct as it already includes the DMV fees :

    Selling price + tax + dox fee + tire fee

    $19,500 + $45 + $1514.74 + $8.75 = $21068.49

    deduct zoom-zoom coupon (treated as rebate)

    $21068.49 - $500 = $20568.49

    Add DMV fees:

    $20,568.49 + $186 = $20754.49

    Notes:
    - The doc fee of $45 is standard in California
    - tire fee is legit (state imposed)
    - the DMV fee of $186 is right for this price (I paid $184
    and my selling price was $18.9K)
    - The $500 zoom-zoom coupon is treated as a rebate, and
    as such as deducted after sales tax is added

    The only question is about the price of $19,500 which is $150 higher than Edmunds's invoice price. The Mazda imposed advertising fee of $150 is legitimate, and I was told about it as well. Sure, the price is always nogtiable because dealers make a profit even selling at invoice or below and I heard of people getting their Mazda3 for Edmund's invoice or even a little less, but overall $19,500 is a very good deal. As I said the rest of the number are OK as well. It's a good idea to get this breakdown in advance so you know they won't try adding any charges and fees at the last moment (which sometimes they try).

    Even though this deal is fair, if you don't mind negotiating, you can try to offer them $20.5K OTD and see if they go for it. Good luck
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Your numbers don't add up


    There is an extra $186 someplace - sounds like about the amount of license and title fees - maybe they just forgot to give that line item, just a guess.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    user1235 post seems right on target. I don't know about your state - but in Texas they deduct rebates and trade in value before calculating sales taxes - every state has its own rules.

    The everything is negotiable is true - but everyone needs to balance out the time & effort they spend against the chances of getting a lower price.

    You could spend all day trying to get them to drop the $150 ad fee - maybe end up with a $75 reduction - only you can decide is it worth a day of your life sitting in a car dealership for $75 -

    Overall the price you are getting is pretty good - you will always see a post from someone who will say they payed a lower price - can't feel bad about it -
  • After reading through this thread and using the "fax attack" approach (see www.fightingchance.com), I just signed the papers for a 2006 Mazda3 S Touring w/manual transmission, moonroof, moonroof deflector, pinstriping, and door guards for $17630 plus taxes, tags, and license. Invoice on this is $18134, so that works out to $500 under. I didn't have any coupons or rebates. They tried to tack on a few extra fees ($100 for document preparation, etc.), but threatening to walk out works wonders. Very satisfied with the purchase so far.
  • Yeah, I'll try to talk it down the ad fee but if definitely wont spend too much time on it...cant image sit in dealer all day long for that @.@~ i just need to make sure dealer dont add any other fee there when I actually show up.
    So now that I am kinda ready to go this dealer to check out/get this car....since everyone said the price is pretty reasonable, not the best ever but pretty good already....one thing edmound recommend ppl to do is to bring an approved loan from E-loan first to make sure not get rip off on loan interest by dealer...so has anyone use E-Loan before? I read their policy and agreements, sounds like a pretty simple and straight forward process..but has anyone sucessfully use it before?

    another things is...ehh..little embarassing to ask..so if I decide to take a car for the price they offer..what exactly do I need to check before I sign the paper and drive the car off the lot? This might sounds really silly but I want to be sure I check everything a new car might have problem with before i drive it home.
  • First of all check out the website mazda3forums.com. It has a LOT of useful info about Mazda3 in general and also about the buying experience, including sticky threads about things to check when buying the car.

    Af for E-Loan, my friend used it and it is pretty simple, they send you a check that you just fill out the amount on. But E-Loan is not cheap, and the APR they advertise on the site is reserved to the people with perfect credit. The APR you will actually get will be much higher and probably not as low as what you can get from most credit unions and even some banks. One of the best online credit unions is penfed.org which offers new vehicle loans for 4.99% APR.

    As for taking delivery of the car, first thing check the mileage - it should be below 50 and optimally below 20 because sometimes cars which sit on the lot for a few weeks might have been used by the dealership staff or had many test drives, and I prefer to get a truely brand new car, and not something that a dozen people already drove and has 200 miles on it. Also check for any visible external defects like dents and scratches. Remember that the equipment on the car is under warranty so if anything is wrong with it, they will have to fix it, but dents and scratches they can always say that you caused it if you don't check before taking posession of the car.

    Another thing is the issue of dealer add-ons that they will try to sell you. Most commonly this includes the extended warranty, the lojack, window etching, paint guard, leather guard, etc. DECLINE all of them - you can always purchase them later and at a much cheaper price elsewhere. Of the above, only extended warranty is really worth it and only if it comes reasonably priced. You can buy a 10 yr 100K miles 0 deductible extended warranty for around $1000, but the dealership will probably offer this for a lot more. In any case, you can BUY IT LATER over the phone or online, most likely for a lot less, so my advice is to decline that at the dealership. For more details on where you can get extended warranty for a good price, search mazda3forums.com.
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