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Toyota Tundra New Owner Reports

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  • Update:

    I want to thank you all for trying to help with my frustration. To answer some of the questions you have posted. The 2nd dealership I went to did check the transmission fluid and said everything seemed fine. As far as the ball mount, when we purchased the trailer the truck and camper was put on a level ground to measure correctly. Everything was measured properly and the camper is level with everything.

    Another update on the letter and e-mail I sent to the Toyotal Corporation. They basically told me that there was nothing they can do. They said I need to work with my dealership to find the issue. This is just crazy, I have been working with 2 different dealerships and nobody wants to help out. They also told me that my truck which is said in my manual to two 10800 lbs can only tow 8100lbs????? Seems a bit fishy to me. Also, they said that make sure I have the right ball mount, sway control... bars..etc. (Which I do) because that can mess with towing capacity. They wanted my vin number and all my information which I feel they don't need. They said they filed the report with what ever they do. I honestly just don't know what to do anymore. I just test drove a tundra with everything mine has, and guess what no shutter, rev'ing around corners, banging... etc. Of course I don't know about towing since it was a test drive, but it was totally different. I guess my only option now is to pay off what I can and purchase another truck. I can only hope that I can get some money back from that 5 year warranty I bought... not sure about that, but I am just stuck.....
  • 1972ck1972ck Posts: 56
    Toyota asked for your VIN so they can fill out a "product report" on your Tundra. They can investigate what shift your truck was built on and access the engine and transmission number from the truck. They will contact one of the dealerships you visited or perhaps both.
    The difference in tow rating is if your Tundra came with the factory tow pkg. or if the hitch was added by the originating dealership or at a 3rd party camper dealership. The factory tow package increases the tow rating of the Tundra. If your truck is a Double Cab 4x4 5.7 liter it maximum tow rating is 10,300lb.s with the factory tow pkg., the reg. cab 5.7 liter 4x2 has the 10,800 lb. tow rating when equipped with the factory two package.
    If the truck was equipped with a receiver hitch and wiring after production at the factory then the tow rating is less. I hope that your Tundra will decide to act up when it's brought to a dealership so they "verify" your complaint. Once a dealer has verified that what your telling them is truthful they can then act with full cooperation from Toyota. Good luck. :shades:
  • Paying off your truck and all that stuff you mentioned is stupid. I'm not saying you are stupid but what you suggested is not the answer. I still stick by my original suggestion------put the trailer on the truck and take it to the dealer and have them go for a ride with you with the trailer on-----if that doesn't work find the Toyota rep and make him do the same thing. If neither one of these work find an attorney (yes I hate to admit it and it might cost you a few bucks for him/her to write a letter) and you'll be surprised at how fast the dealers and the reps start listening to you. (I had to do this once with another car I had a long time ago). There is absolutely no reason for you to be holding the bag on this. If the damn truck doesn't work make them fix it and fix it right. DON"T GIVE UP ----
  • tluketluke Posts: 52
    I got my 2008 SR5 5.7 last month and it seems that it's slow to heat up. I live in NW PA where it gets plenty cold. It seems that I have to wait quite a while to get heat in the truck. The temp gauge rises but it takes too long to get heat. Eventually it heats up and stays warm. Maybe I'm just used to my prior vehicle, a Jeep Wrangler with a 6. It heated fairly quick. When it was recently single digit temps I got home before the truck warmed up. That is a 5 mile drive. Do other Tundras warm slowly or am I expecting too much?
  • You are not alone. My 2008 5.7 takes 5-10 mins to warm in the driveway before I leave for work. Winter temps anywhere from 0 to 30 F. It barely gets warm by the time I get to work too if I leave right away. It is such a big engine that it apparently takes a while to warm up. Don't even think about getting good defrost before 10 mins.
  • tluketluke Posts: 52
    Thanks for the input mrtoad3. I guess it's one of those things I'll just have to live with. No big deal.
  • So it seems these ones lack haul and are breakin quicker? How is them pumpkins lastin? They rustin yet? That is the way of em, thats for sure! Lookin for one to work that farm, but it seems these ones not lastin long enough for that farm now. Good luck on this one now!
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Posts: 68
    I have been thinking about adding XM radio to my truck and remembered that for the first few months after buying my '08 with NAV/Bluetooth that it had 2 satellite stations accessible by pushing SAT button on the radio. After a year, those stations are gone and my SAT button is not operational. Is there a built-in satellite tuner in the radio/NAV system? Does anyone know what to do to get it to reactivate so I can get the code to begin XM connection? The dealer had no clue how to proceed.. Thanks to anyone who can help.
  • riserriser Posts: 10
    I read that a K&N intake would increase gas mileage. I just bought a new 2009 and although 16-17 is OK, if I can increase it a few mpg, so much the better. Has anyone used this and did it work?
  • diesel35diesel35 Posts: 2
    I am a contractor in phoenix AZ. I have owned a lot of trucks 150's, super duty, Dodge 2500 diesel, 3500 diesel. Still have the Dodge 3500 4x4 dually. My 07 Tundra 5.7 standard cab long bed 2wd is by far the best all around truck. I tow a covered work trailer every day. the trucks performance, handling, braking, is the best. Reading the complaints on here, i don't think they know the difference between piston slap and a very minor timing chain noise. This truck is flawless. I drive it very hard. 5 and 6000 RPM is very common, while towing.
  • riserriser Posts: 10
    Thanks, man. I drove 3 F-150's back in the late 70's. Over 150-180K each, a lot on pipeline ROWs, and never had any problems. But since then, I've heard about a lot of issues. This time, I drove a new F-150 Platinum home to show it off to my wife, and when I pulled up the back seat to show how much room was there, the handle for the seat broke and wouldn't release the seat. She just started laughing and said I'd be an idiot if I didn't just test drive a Toyota. SO I now own the Tundra Luchese 4WD TRD package. It's not as soft riding, but solid and doesn't get as good mileage (17.5 the 1st tank), but everything works!! The back seat isn't as roomy for my dog box, but it is just as comfortable and tricked out. I think I'm going to enjoy passing every Ford I see!!
  • bwaynobwayno Posts: 1
    I own a '08 dc trd. From the get go there has been a rattle in the dash somewhere behind the glove box. Really notice it at low speeds on concrete streets. Also a suspension shudder at low speeds over not even big bumps. The rattle seems to coincide with the suspension shudder. Dealer changed out a clip that they said would fix the problem. They said there was a TSB on it. Still have the rattle. I'm ready to go in the dash myself but need a little help disassembling the dash. Any help out there.
  • yota4trukyota4truk Posts: 34
    during cooler temps noticed rattle "in dash", turned out if I open the door, it goes away?? some stuff too close together I guess... :confuse:
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Posts: 68
    I am considering an install of the TRD swaybar and was wondering if it would really help with cornering roll control etc. Would it be much stiffer. I have the TRD pkg but not the aftermarket swaybar. Am looking to improve the roll in corners at higher speeds without lowering the truck. Any suggestions or past experiences? Thanks.
  • nwalker1nwalker1 Posts: 17
    How long are the brakes lasting on the Tundra's? My 2000 Chevrolet Silverado extended cab with the 5.3L lasted over 140,000 miles of hard use. I really do like the Tundra's and I hope the brakes are lasting over 100,000 before any service is needed!
  • cruemax08cruemax08 Posts: 2
    Yes the TRD bar really helps with the cornering roll and greatly improves the transient responses of the truck in corners. 45 minute install at most. Well worth it. If you stick with the OEM 18" off road tires, those will be your biggest issue with cornering after this upgrade.
  • 1972ck1972ck Posts: 56
    I had a K&N intake on my last Tundra and it reacted the exact opposite way. It decreased my fuel economy. If the engine is sucking in more air then the air/fuel ratio sensor adjusts the fuel accordingly. My mileage went down not up, I wasn't impressed to say the least. :mad:
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Posts: 68
    I would like to know what size tires I can upgrade to after a leveling suspension kit is installed. I got 2 " front lift so now the '08 Tundra dblcab rides level. I have the 18" TRD rims and stock 275/65/18's. Can I go with a bigger tire or just stay with stock size without changing rolling rates too much? Thanks.
  • dt4dt4 Posts: 4
    I am approaching 40,000 miles on the 5.7 liter engine. At start up it sounds like a diesel and has always done this. However, at full operating temprature it makes sounds like the valves are knocking or like low octane gas. I have run 93 octane gas and this does not help. Going up hills seem to make it a lot more noticeable or when the engine has a load on it. Took to the dealer and the service manager and I drove the truck around and he says it is the exhaust resonator at the back of the engine doing this. However at first they told me it was the variable valve timeing doing this on a previous visit. Has anyone out there heard this BS from any Toyota dealers? Everyone at Toyota seems to think this is normal.
  • vc17vc17 Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 Tundra 5.7L with 5000 miles on the engine. The truck has been to the dealer 4 times for the engine KNOCKING noise, the noise I have is not piston slap, I've owned 3 GM trucks prior to buying the Tundra and I know what piston slap sound like. My issue is different from the issues most of you are reporting. The engine KNOCKING noise in my engine occurres after warm up and at operating temp, the noise comes and goes and is not constant. At 4800 miles the dealer (at the direction of the factory rep) replaced all the hydraulic lifters in Bank 1, after driving the truck for 20 miles, the KNOCKING noise was still present.

    I took the truck back to the dealer on 112809, got a call back from my service department, there were 3 factory reps at the dealer with my truck, at the direction of the 3 factory reps, they told the dealer to pull the motor out of the truck and tear the motor apart. The factory reps will return to the dealer on 120409 to look at the torn down motor to see what the problem is.

    I contacted TMC and filed a case when this issue started a few months ago. I'm not here to bash toyota because I love this truck, but Toyota has the WORST customer service I have ever experienced! To all that have this engine noise, I recommend you stay on Toyota and file a case with TMC and be PERSISTANT.
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