Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Malibu Oil Changes/Service Questions

1235789

Comments

  • Good Idea, and I will try non ethanol to see if there is any difference.
  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    Just curious, does anyone know where the cabin air filter is on the 05 MAXX? And, is it hard to replace? Thanks in advance!
  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    OK, I have been running 89.5 Unleaded with 10% ethanol for the last few weeks. I do not see any difference in mileage or performance. Sure beats my 03 Grand Prix GTP that did not like ethanol :-)
  • prdmprdm Posts: 145
    Don't believe they came with filters in place though they seemed to have designed a structure to house them.
  • redmaxxredmaxx Posts: 627
    They did not come with a filter. But if you go to a Saturn dealer and ask for an Ion filter (costs ~12 here) you can just slip it in.

    Open the glove box and remove everything. Press in very hard on the sides of the glove box and wiggle it back and forth while trying to pull it away from the dash. Its best to work on getting only one side of the glove box free before working on the other. Once you have disengaged both sides, the glove box will drop down. Now you are looking for a door that is about 2-3 inches tall and about as wide as the filter. Be careful when opening it. I snapped the latches of by trying to undo them the wrong way. Slide the filter in. Pay attention to the markings on which way the air goes on the filter. Inside the car, the air travels downward within that compartment. Close the door and then snap the glove box back in place. You're done!

    If you should snap off the latches for that door, then you can a couple of pieces of strong tape (I use strapping take) to hold it in place.
  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    Thanks for the info! Sounds kinda hard :-) My luck I would break something :-(
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    the glove box is very hard to remove. I have to squeeze one side in about as hard as I can to remove one peg; then I do the other side. I would recommend cutting paper furnace filters instead of wasting money on GM filters. I don't believe you will break the plastic glove box; I have been very rough with mine attempting to get it off. It is well worth the effort since I have seen first hand the dirt and mold I am capturing.
  • I have a problem with the idle. Sometimes it runs so slow it stalls, to keep it running you have to keep your foot on the gas. Other times it runs at 2500 RPMs and if you touch the gas it goes faster. Each time you start it up, that is the idle you have. Most of the time it runs right. If you have a problem you just shut it off and try again, it takes several times or over night The car has 172000 miles and it is cold outside 10to 30 degrees F. If anyone has had this problem I could use the fix. Or is there some other web site I should go to? Thanks
  • you press one side inward at a time.

    Be sure there is a good solid support under the filter to prevent it getting sucked into the fan just below it.

    One furnace filter that has a plastic grille is WEB. You can cut this to fit the Malibu filter compartment and then put the media filter over the grille.
  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    Can anyone tell me where the PCV is located on the MAXX? It is about time to change it, and I am not sure where it is. I must be overlooking it! THanks in advance!
  • sgr5516sgr5516 Posts: 156
    It plugs into the front value cover to the right of oil fill cap.
  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    THANKS! Will change it this weekend!
  • We bought a 2005 2.2 Malibu in may 2005 the all round Best Car we have ever owned.
    However early Sept. it began shuttering at idle in drive
    this went on till 5000 miles in December then the check engine lite came on
    took to Chevy dealer they stated the coil(ign.mod.) was gone and cleaned 2 spark plugs one week and 170 miles later the shutting and check lite came back again this time another coil(ing.mod.) :surprise: , 1 injector and 4 new plugs we are driving a fine runing car. But we are wondering when it will pop back up again,as the chevy dealer has no clue why 2 coils(ing mod) and injector have failed. Fingers Crossed.as of 01/07 06
  • tunabobtunabob Posts: 3
    Just got my Maxx(used 2005) and the only thing this car come with was an owners manual. dealer has ordered one, but setting up the auto garage door opener is driving me NUTS! Please, someone tell me how to set it. What the dealer showed me didn't work. Tia, tuna
  • kmaurerkmaurer Posts: 48
    Have you subscribed to MyGMLink.com? You can get an electronic copy of your owner's manual there.
  • tunabobtunabob Posts: 3
    Cool! Did it, got it, done.

    Thanks so much.
    tuna
  • john134john134 Posts: 1
    I had a remarkably similar experience with my 2001 Malibu LS: Had the fuel pump replaced after a non-start episode in 3/2004, and then had the ignition module replaced when the problem recurred a month later. This solved the problem until recently. The "theft" light now goes on for no apparent reason intermittently. No non-start episodes yet. Wondered if you had recurrent problems or if Chevy has addressed this systematic annoying problem?
  • qx56qx56 Posts: 69
    bought a set of michilin x at sams car never handeled so good corners like a sports car and the gas mileage is up
  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    OK, now thanks to your help here, I found the PCV. Now, how the heck does it come out? On our MAXX where the valve goes in, there is like a retaining type holder that looks to be riveted into the engine, thus the pcv does not pull out. I am stumped! I cannot pull the PCV out. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? THANKS! Larry :-)
  • n0rsemann0rseman Posts: 8
    The PCV on the 3.5 in the Maxx is the fixed orifice type. These usually don't need to be changed.
  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    THANKS! I could not figure out how to get the old one out! I wonder why they even list it if it is not user serviceable? I bet it would be costly to replace it. Thanks again for the info!

    Larry :-)
  • hgallardohgallardo Posts: 3
    I cannot find the oil filter on my 2006 Chevy Malibu LS 2.2L engine?
    can any one help???.

    thanks
  • robbles1robbles1 Posts: 1
    I have a mother who is 85, in good health, and stil drives. She recently had a bunch of stuff done. Is she getting ripped off?

    The COOLANT JOB (Red light coming on; the diagnosis was she needed to have her manifold gasket replaced):
    Replaced manifold gasket 6.5 hours $585.00
    Replaced worn serpentine belt 45 .00
    Lube, oil, and filter completed $12.45
    Gasket KI 68.78
    Gasket 22.74
    Seal 2.16
    Coolant 24.32
    Sealant 17.00
    Bolt (4) 22.66
    Bolt (4) 26.32
    Belt 59.66
    Oil filter 7.00
    5W30 (6) 7.50
    PARTS 250.44
    gAS, OIL, grease 7.50
    Misc. supplies used 16.95
    TOTAL CHARGE-- $917.34

    Brake Job (not sure which brakes, I'll have to check)
    The brake job at the Shell Station was $469.73

    SUSPENSION Job:
    Replaced front strut tops, 4 wheel alignment 331.50
    Mount--213.96
    Nut 20.72
    Hub cap35.02
    Nisc. 16.95
    Lab mechanical 331.50
    TOTAL: 618.15
    Sales Tax 37.09
    Total-- 659.15
    so it adds up to 659.19---suspension
    976.33---coolant
    469.73---brakes
    ------------
    $2085.25 since 4/21/06
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    Check those figures with Edmund's Maintenance Guide.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • mjohns7861mjohns7861 Posts: 41
    My 'bu has about 55K miles. A couple things:

    1. I still have not changed the transmission fluid. Supposed to be good for 100K miles. Should I change at this point? Same sparkplugs as well.

    2. Also, the AC unit is on the blink. This seems to be common problem with the Malibu's. AC light blinks on and off with the cold air. What's the fix for this?

    Thanks, Magnus
  • wxman4wxman4 Posts: 53
    My guess is the AC problem is the control head in the dash. I have gone through two of these with the symptoms you describe. It was about a $250 fix.

    Wxman
  • maxxolivermaxxoliver Posts: 78
    I am at the end of the year of free oil changes from the dealer and am now considering changing to synthetic oil my next oil change. I was wondering what experience others have had. Thanks
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    I kept my dinosaur oil in for only 6,000 miles. I switched to Mobil 1 then, and change it every 6,000 miles thereafter. It's a great way to maintain your engine. It is also very expensive if you have someone else do the work. I change my own oil, as well as some other minor functions.
  • starpop1starpop1 Posts: 10
    I plan to begin doing my own oil and filter changes on my 2005 MAXX. My ramps won't work so I'll have to use a jack and jackstands. I've never worked with jackstands before. Where is the best place to set the jackstands under the car? I like the car and don't want to damage it. Thanks, Peter.
  • maxxindmaxxind Posts: 22
    Starpop1, you might just want to investigate getting some less-steep ramps. I have a jack and jackstands, but I just use ramps when all I need to do is change the oil, because it's a lot quicker to just drive it up on the ramps. There are some black plastic ones I've seen which are a more gradual incline than the typical steel ones. The ones I use are solid wood ones that were made from railroad ties.

    I use Mobil 1 synthetic in my '05 Maxx. I put it in when it had about 7,000 miles on it. Fuel economy and performance is not noticeably different from what I had with regular oil. The engine uses a very small amount of oil (as it did with regular oil). If I didn't top it up by dribbling in a few ounces here and there, it might go down 1/3 of a quart in 6,000 miles or so, which is obviously not a problem.

    For the change interval, I follow the oil life monitor system. I start thinking of changing it when it gets down to 20 percent or so, and I don't think I've run it below about 14 or 15 percent, which means the oil is staying in about 7,500 miles in warm weather and 6,000 in cold weather. It could go another 1,000 or 1,500 if I took it down to zero percent, but zero could come at a time when it was not convenient to do an oil change, so I just prefer to do it a little early so I can pick the time when I do it.

    I really like the oil life monitor because it takes into consideration the type of use the engine is seeing. I think it's far preferable to follow that than stick to a certain mileage figure for changes. The synthetic oil does make me feel better about those long change intervals it calls for, though.
This discussion has been closed.