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Chevrolet Malibu Oil Changes/Service Questions

1568101113

Comments

  • mybooomybooo Posts: 92
    THANKS! I could not figure out how to get the old one out! I wonder why they even list it if it is not user serviceable? I bet it would be costly to replace it. Thanks again for the info!

    Larry :-)
  • hgallardohgallardo Posts: 3
    I cannot find the oil filter on my 2006 Chevy Malibu LS 2.2L engine?
    can any one help???.

    thanks
  • robbles1robbles1 Posts: 1
    I have a mother who is 85, in good health, and stil drives. She recently had a bunch of stuff done. Is she getting ripped off?

    The COOLANT JOB (Red light coming on; the diagnosis was she needed to have her manifold gasket replaced):
    Replaced manifold gasket 6.5 hours $585.00
    Replaced worn serpentine belt 45 .00
    Lube, oil, and filter completed $12.45
    Gasket KI 68.78
    Gasket 22.74
    Seal 2.16
    Coolant 24.32
    Sealant 17.00
    Bolt (4) 22.66
    Bolt (4) 26.32
    Belt 59.66
    Oil filter 7.00
    5W30 (6) 7.50
    PARTS 250.44
    gAS, OIL, grease 7.50
    Misc. supplies used 16.95
    TOTAL CHARGE-- $917.34

    Brake Job (not sure which brakes, I'll have to check)
    The brake job at the Shell Station was $469.73

    SUSPENSION Job:
    Replaced front strut tops, 4 wheel alignment 331.50
    Mount--213.96
    Nut 20.72
    Hub cap35.02
    Nisc. 16.95
    Lab mechanical 331.50
    TOTAL: 618.15
    Sales Tax 37.09
    Total-- 659.15
    so it adds up to 659.19---suspension
    976.33---coolant
    469.73---brakes
    ------------
    $2085.25 since 4/21/06
  • Karen@EdmundsKaren@Edmunds Posts: 5,024
    Check those figures with Edmund's Maintenance Guide.

    Karen-Edmunds Community Manager

  • mjohns7861mjohns7861 Posts: 41
    My 'bu has about 55K miles. A couple things:

    1. I still have not changed the transmission fluid. Supposed to be good for 100K miles. Should I change at this point? Same sparkplugs as well.

    2. Also, the AC unit is on the blink. This seems to be common problem with the Malibu's. AC light blinks on and off with the cold air. What's the fix for this?

    Thanks, Magnus
  • wxman4wxman4 Posts: 53
    My guess is the AC problem is the control head in the dash. I have gone through two of these with the symptoms you describe. It was about a $250 fix.

    Wxman
  • maxxolivermaxxoliver Posts: 78
    I am at the end of the year of free oil changes from the dealer and am now considering changing to synthetic oil my next oil change. I was wondering what experience others have had. Thanks
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    I kept my dinosaur oil in for only 6,000 miles. I switched to Mobil 1 then, and change it every 6,000 miles thereafter. It's a great way to maintain your engine. It is also very expensive if you have someone else do the work. I change my own oil, as well as some other minor functions.
  • starpop1starpop1 Posts: 10
    I plan to begin doing my own oil and filter changes on my 2005 MAXX. My ramps won't work so I'll have to use a jack and jackstands. I've never worked with jackstands before. Where is the best place to set the jackstands under the car? I like the car and don't want to damage it. Thanks, Peter.
  • maxxindmaxxind Posts: 22
    Starpop1, you might just want to investigate getting some less-steep ramps. I have a jack and jackstands, but I just use ramps when all I need to do is change the oil, because it's a lot quicker to just drive it up on the ramps. There are some black plastic ones I've seen which are a more gradual incline than the typical steel ones. The ones I use are solid wood ones that were made from railroad ties.

    I use Mobil 1 synthetic in my '05 Maxx. I put it in when it had about 7,000 miles on it. Fuel economy and performance is not noticeably different from what I had with regular oil. The engine uses a very small amount of oil (as it did with regular oil). If I didn't top it up by dribbling in a few ounces here and there, it might go down 1/3 of a quart in 6,000 miles or so, which is obviously not a problem.

    For the change interval, I follow the oil life monitor system. I start thinking of changing it when it gets down to 20 percent or so, and I don't think I've run it below about 14 or 15 percent, which means the oil is staying in about 7,500 miles in warm weather and 6,000 in cold weather. It could go another 1,000 or 1,500 if I took it down to zero percent, but zero could come at a time when it was not convenient to do an oil change, so I just prefer to do it a little early so I can pick the time when I do it.

    I really like the oil life monitor because it takes into consideration the type of use the engine is seeing. I think it's far preferable to follow that than stick to a certain mileage figure for changes. The synthetic oil does make me feel better about those long change intervals it calls for, though.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    yeah, the oil life monitor is very close to zero when I do my 6,000 mile Mobil 1 changes.

    As for your ramps, don't get any!! The Maxx has plenty of room to crawl under to get both the oil plug and filter. I use a long plastic oil catcher that I bought at Walmart; it allow me to drain the pan and filter at the same time. Please don't waste your money on ramps or jacks.
  • maxxindmaxxind Posts: 22
    True, you can probably do the oil change without raising the car at all, but it's easier to do with ramps, especially the first time when a person may not know where everything is. I have a pretty hard time sliding under the front spoiler on the Maxx without ramps; maybe I just need to go on a diet.
  • starpop1starpop1 Posts: 10
    Thank you for the help. I'm in my 60's so I will look for a set of ramps that will work with my MAXX. Just a lot easier and more comfortable, and I still know the job will be done right. Peter
  • clay94clay94 Posts: 2
    Brake lights weren't working on either side (just the center light), but found that the parking lights work on the passenger side. Checked brake fuses, no problem. Disassembled the rear light assembly, two bad bulbs in the left one, two good ones in the right one. Tried the good bulbs in the left assembly, no luck for parking or brake. Before I did all this the backing and blinker worked on the left, now they don't. Will check the swith on the brake pedal tonight, but still need to get the blinker and backing lights working.
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    If your center high-mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) works then the problem with the brake lights likely isn't with the stop lamp switch because that switch feeds all those lamps.

    Do the turn and back-up lamps work on the right side (just the brake lamp didn't work)? You might want to try just temporarily plugging right lamp into left connector and visa versa and see what problems move with the lamp assembly. The turn and back-up functions will be reversed but you can still check all functions.
  • clay94clay94 Posts: 2
    You're right, the brake switch works just fine, a bit of a pain to get to though.

    Yes,the turn and back-up lamps work on the right side, and now the brake lamp does as well, and I don't know why that works now. I noticed that the licence plate lamp wiring runs right along with the driver-side tail lamp wiring, and the licence plate bulb does not work either. Does that provide more of a clue? Could it be something to do with where the wiring comes out the back of the fuse panel?

    I will switch the assemblies this evening and see what that shows. I thought of doing that, but wasn't sure if they were interchangable like that.

    Thanks for the tips.
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    OK - did you say that the tail lamps on right side are working now also?? Basically the problem is only with the left lamp (where nothing is working) and the licence lamp?

    The stop lamp on right side may have started working again because you played with the bulbs.
  • mdennishmdennish Posts: 16
    just replaced the original bridgestone tires with new michelin x radial dt tires from sams club and what an improvement in noise,cornering,braking,etc. sams club has discounted the tire p215/60r16 to $83.00 per tire
  • lcw1lcw1 Posts: 35
    Can some one tell me the tire pressure front and rear for the bridgestone tires on a 2005 Maxx? I purchased my car used but the tire label was removed.
    Thanks.
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