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Chevrolet Malibu: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    Jmax....did you get a formal letter back from GM?...how did you approach them on this subject....Im sure other MAXX owners...would like to give them suggestions for improvements or enhancements on the car....I leave the shades retracted...just because of the problem with them snapping back......hope they come up with a latch for a more reliable fix....maybe even an entire replacement for the shade!
  • jmax4jmax4 Posts: 22
    Pao, the message in #105 (Malibu MAXX- rear shades) are the words from the actual e-mail I received from GM customer service in a reply on 7/1/04.

    When I bought my Maxx in February, I registered it in www.mygmlink.com. When the shades started to open and the plastic bent out of its shape, I send an e-mail to GM from mygmlink.com account with a description of the problem and my complains.

    I received an answer by e-mail and talked to the person on the phone. They assigned the reference service request number and told me to take the car to the dealer. I called my sales person and talked to him about this problem too. I took the car on Sat. to the dealer to show him. (Service dept. doesn’t work on Sat.)

    They ordered the part and I took my car for the “repair.” The dealer did not replace the part, but called GM who “advised not replace any part at this time. GM is working to resolve concern and will notify dealership when concern can be resolved (per case number # and dated 6/22/04).” This is a cited formal note from my service papers. Then I sent another e-mail to GM with a complain about the headrest (no action from GM this time) and asked them about the rear shade again (see reply in msg #105).

    Maybe when we complain to GM and dealerships at the same time, we will get what we want and they will not tell us that nobody else complained, and this is the first time they hear about this or that.
  • bonnie0372bonnie0372 Posts: 26
    UPDATE ON MY CAR. I took it back to the dealer to have the Steering Column replaced...according to the service department most MALIBU's will eventually need that! Don't ask me why! They still haven't found out why it is idling rough...one tech suggested that it could be the FUEL TRIM. (it has to level out or something)..I have no idea what this means.....Does anyone know anything about this....?? Also, the noise that is coming from my Tranmission GM doesn't have a "fix" for yet. Supposedly it is something like a TRANSAXLE..howling noise or something at accelaration in first and second gear. Nothing to worry about for now they say!!! We'll see they said by my first SERVICE which should be 3000 miles hopefully they will have the fix and they will work on it then! HA we will see.....boy oh boy, 600 miles on the car and all these problems...I hope they will be over soon and I can start enjoying my new car!!! haha!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the oxygen sensors in the exhaust system indicate that the engine is burning too much or too little fuel for correct combustion, the computer will attempt to provide the correct air/fuel mixture by increasing or decreasing (trimming) the amount of fuel it delivers to the engine. That's "fuel trim" and the amount of trim can be read with a scan tool.

    Almost all front wheel drive vehicles don't have a transmission. Because the final drive is incorporated into the same cast aluminum housing as the transmission it's properly referred to as a transaxle, the transmission and drive axle in one unit.

    Re the noise you mention, this TSB from GM might cover it:

    ASI Resolution - Growl or Howl Type Noise From Transmission/Engine Compartment During Light to Moderate Acceleration from a Stop (Replace Drive Link, Drive Sprocket and Driven Sprocket) #04-07-30-021A - (Jul 2, 2004)

    2004 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx
    2004 Oldsmobile Alero
    2004 Pontiac Grand Am

    Built After January 16, 2004
    with 4T45E Automatic Transaxles (RPO MN5) Built Between Julian Date 4016 and 4126 and

    3.4L or 3.5L V6 Engine (VINs E, 8 - RPOs LA1, LX9)

    This bulletin is being revised to include a repair procedure and parts availability information.

    Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle).

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a growl or howl type noise during light to moderate acceleration from a stop. This noise is load and engine RPM sensitive and will occur between 1500 RPM to approximately 2300 RPM. The noise is most noticeable in first and second gear. The noise may dissipate prior to the 1-2 shift, but will be noticed again in second gear depending on the load and engine RPM. The pitch of the noise will change during the 1-2 shift.

    Cause
    The noise is due to the new 5/8 inch drive link assembly being at a resonant frequency during certain driving conditions.

    Correction

    Important
    Only RPO MN5 transaxles built between Julian date 4016 and 4126 have 5/8 inch drive link assemblies. Refer to Transmission ID and VIN Derivative Location, SI Document ID #760312 for Julian date location information.

    Follow the service procedure below to replace the 5/8 inch drive link and sprockets with a 7/8 inch drive link and sprockets

    etc, etc, etc.....
  • atlantisatlantis Posts: 1
    Lately the idle on my 2000 malibu (100K kilometers) has been erratic.
    When I start it in the morning the idle may go as high as 2500 rpm. The idle may stay at this speed or it will sometimes drop down to the 750 rpm level. If it does not drop, when I stop and re start the engine it may idle at 750 rpm. I have checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the (IAC) idle air control. I have checked for problem codes but nothing comes up.
    Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what the problem is?
    Thanks Ralph
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    There were a couple posts in various other sections on idle complaints on initial start-up, I am putting suggestions here since more appropriate board.

    Has anyone done any work underhood on vehicle who might have taken something apart? This is waaay too detailed but here goes:

    Initial thought is this sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. A couple of the easier things to look at:

    PVC tube to be unplugged from rear valve cover
    -or-
    Leaks in airflow system at either end end of the crosscar duct at throttle body on engine or the mass airflow sensor (by air cleaner).

    Final one would be brake booster vacuum check valve but that one is too tricky to look at yourself

    2nd thought:

    Check if this has anything to do with A/C being ON at start-up (do some vehicle starts when you know that the A/C is off and see if any different).

    Sometimes the A/C system might have a higher initial load if refrigerant goes into liquid state after car has sat for a while.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    I doubt it is the first since so many of us are having the problem at start up. I also know it is not an AC thing since mine is always off at start up. The rought idle definitely is at start up only. I have a little "hitch" when I'm sitting at a light, but not always.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    I had a small problem with mine..and I simply went under the hood and made sure all hoses where connected..looking at clamps..pushing all hoses firmly down to insure a good connection and seal..and havent experienced any problems since..I start mine normally with the AC running and notice nothing..perhaps I got the one built on Weds instead of Mon or Fri....know this isnt much help..but lift the hood..and check?!?
  • glennbglennb Posts: 34
    I have an '04 Maxx with 1400 miles on it. The temperature guage reads just above half normally, but the other day, idling in traffic, no air on, it read a half a mark under the overheat range. Has anyone else noticed this? Any info appreciated.

    Glenn Butzlaff
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    yes Glen. My Maxx at 1200 miles is doing the same thing. It reads normally at just above the half way point. When I'm in stop and go traffic, it goes up to 3/4 of the way, just below the red zone. I join you in asking for some input from the other Maxx/Bu owners out there.
    David: any insight you can share with us??
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    would suggest you mention it to the GM Customer service site.
    if you havent already signed up. www.mygmlink.com

    register your VIN..and send in the emails with the problem..I did and they worked the rear shade issue..probably will not see a immediate re-engineer of them..but if the case file gets big enough...they might...would say the same for the temp gauge...Ive been fortunate and not had the problem...registers right at the halfway mark or a tick above it...all the time...maybe a sensor or guage problem....but at least be persistent...the GM customer service folks were very nice..and chased me down to insure I was a happy customer..worth a shot
  • jmax4jmax4 Posts: 22
    Thanks pao for joining me in the shades problem.
  • map013map013 Posts: 3
    Is anybody having trouble keeping their AM radio Pre-Sets. Every morning I have to re-program the AM radio stations only. My FM and XM stations are all there, but the AM gets lost. Any suggestions?
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Do you unlock the car with the same keyfob every day? Each keyfob id's itself to the computer which in turn tells the radio which presets to use. One of my keyfobs is not consistent in this respect and I lose some presets when I use it. When I have time I'll take the fob into the dealer and hopefully they'll fix it or exchange it.
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    It is very interesting that you are noticing just AM presets are affected. AM and FM presets are stored in the radio. The XM presets are stored in the XM radio receiver.

    7937 is correct about function but likely that is not a fob problem in his/her case but something that receives the fob information. Your issue sounds to be radio related.

    If this is happening this regularly it might be interesting for you to switch to the other key fob and see if the problem continues. It doesn't really prove where the problem is but would be very interesting if you could repost with results.
  • I was recently listening to a call-in radio show on automobile maintenance and the host said that the dexcool that many GM cars use will eventually cause problems to the engine. Apparently, it's too thick and causes hoses to clog along with a number of other potential problems. This is news to me. I've never considered changing it. Can anyone say if there's any validity to this? If anyone is using something other than dexcool, how has it been working out? Just curious to hear of everyone's opinion or experience on this.
  • Map013 and 7937: Before you blame the keyfob, review page 2-7 of your Owner's Manual:

    - To transmit the stations stored in the fob to the car, press "unlock" on the fob.

    - To store the stations saved in the radio to the fob, turn off the ignition.

    I have found it's less confusing to keep the presets on both fobs the same. An easy way to do this is take both keys with you to the car, start the engine, verify the presets are correct, turn the ignition off; then repeat with the other key.

    If you DO want different preset stations on the two keyfobs, remember to press "unlock" before you start the engine. Otherwise, you'll be starting with the other set of preset stations; and they'll automatically be stored in the fob when you turn off the ignition, overwriting the ones you wanted.
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Dexcool looks no thicker to me than any other coolant. Dexcool is designed for aluminum heads and engine blocks which are very susceptible to corrosion. Also, radiators and heater cores are now also aluminum. I've used Dexcool for many years in my Cavalier without any problems. I believe that problems occur when coolants are mixed.

    Once every 6 months or so I transfuse my coolant by siphoning the coolant overflow tank dry and refilling with Dexcool. I don't think it is too wise to leave the same coolant in for 5 years or 150,000 miles. Also, the coolant level must never be allowed to go below the fill mark on the overflow tank. Follow these simple procedures and you'll never have trouble with Dexcool.
  • thanks 7937 for your input. I agree leaving the same batch of coolant in for five years, regardless of what it is, is risky. It seemed that changing it to something else didn't make much sense. I appreciate the "second opinion."
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Dexcool is also silicate and phosphate free which means that there is less abrasion and wearing away of your coolant pump impeller.

    I buy Havoline Dexcool from Wal-Mart and although I cannot remember the price, it is not much more expensive than standard coolant. The dealer will of course ask you more for it and quote a GM number. The fact is that Havoline makes it for GM and it states on the Havoline container that it is GM approved.
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