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GMC's Warranty Business Practices

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    -Having the tie rod analyzed by a metallurgy test is the very best thing you could do to develop proof there was a manufactoring error. This was what I was going to suggest, then I read the note where you said you were going to do this. I would think a top-line lab could find a manufactoring defect, or determine if the break was caused by stress fracture from the accident.

    -The rim being dented concerns me. I would think a 2 inch curb would be no worse than a lot of potholes people encounter on the road, at speeds up to 75mph. Only wide, low profile tires and rims have problems with a 2 inch curb. I would think the size tires someone quoted are standard on your vehicle would be able to cross this curb, at almost any speed, and not be dented.

    -I feel there may be a case of 'unintended acceleration' here. You wife turned into a curb, had a sharp 'jolt' crossing it, and got on the accelerator rather than the brake. She then 'fishtailed (your word)' (vehicle under power) across the lot and sideswiped a light standard, probably hitting the base, possibly a concrete base, breaking the tie rod, denting the rim, and taking out the side of the car.

    (This is my best 'Carnack' vision.)
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    I don't trust any OEM brake component for an extended period - I race cars and put my vehicles through the wringer - I upgrade all of my braking components within the first year or so.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,949
    Never once in all of the cars I've owned and all of the miles I've driven, I have never, ever had a caliper leak, stick, or anything else.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, if you race, that is a totally different world from a usual driver. You could probably totally roast a brake system in one afternoon at a track. Also a set of tires?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've had a caliper leak.

    On a Corvette. These cars, at least the older models, love to rust the calipers out from the inside. Maybe they have improved in the last 10 years or so, but the 'original' 4 piston calipers seem to come equiped from the factory with a few tablespoons of water in each caliper. They would then creat a nice rust pit in each piston within a few years. Especailly if you put new pads on, it would push the piston back so the seal sat right on the top of the rust pits.
    Leaks.
    There is a big industry of drilling out calipers and pressing in stainless steel liners and exchanging them with Corvette owners. For big money.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    I'm talking about weekend autocrossing, I still get 25,000 miles out of a set of Z or W rated tires and 25-30 out of good aftermarket brake pads - I just don't like OEM garbage on my vehicles, whether it's brakes or tires - I felt that way long before I started racing.

    Compare OEM brake rotors, for instance, to those made by a good aftermarket company (I'm not talking about slotted $400 a piece Brembos, either). Stronger, better material, cleaner castings, etc.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    for a buddy in the Air Force - never again.

    Nowadays, you can buy loaded calipers or hot rod calipers for less money than to pay labor for a rebuild.
  • rinebirdrinebird Posts: 83
    My son has a Ford Ranger with over 130,000 no problems. It is a 97. good luck
  • Over a month ago I purchased a new Chevrolet Malibu Maxx. When doing the paperwork, the "paperwork" guy asked me if I wanted an extended warranty. I looked at him and asked what happens to the warranty that was supposed to come with the vehicle (36miles, 3yrs). He said that would go away. But I could buy a warranty for $1800 and pay various deductibles. At the time, I said, NO. I couldn't understand why I would pay for a warranty when I'm supposed to already have a warranty. I've heard of people buying 7 year warranties. But haven't justified to myself that I should have. In the past when I bought a new car...if it lasted 3 years I usually kept it 5 or 6 years. I've never had a major problem with any car yet. I did spend $1400 once for something major, but kept the car another 5 years.

     

    With the Maxx, once again I'm thinking if it lasts 3 years, great. Any inputs?

     

    Also, I received an e-mail from my insurance company offering me Mechanical Breakdown Insurance (MBI). Anyone know about this kind of coverage? If one makes claims, do the premiums go up?
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    doesn't go away, it's simply reinforced and extended - the guy used a very poor choice of words, or is sorely mistaken.

     

    Stay away from private/aftermarket service contracts - they don't have your best interest in mind, and they aren't "warranties" by any stretch.
  • is an assistant DA, etc., etc., etc.

     

    I thought he was going to get metallurgy testing done and all that. What he really needs is driving lessons for his wife.

     

    GM suspensions are pretty solid. I hit a "lane divider" (whatever it's called) at the Orlando airport one night (I swear, that curb came out of nowhere!) in my Fleetwood right after buying 4 new tires. I thought "he11, this is going to cause a blowout later on and mess up the suspension". Never had a blowout after almost 3 more years and didn't even notice any alignment problem. They're tough vehicles (envoy is no Geo metro) so ray's wife must have really clobbered whatever it was she hit to snap a tie rod end. you can do it though, my brother did it back in 1981 on a 1969 SeDan DeVille by hitting another car! so it's not impossible...
  • That this person's metallurgy tesats showed no abnormalities with the Rockwell or Brinnell hardness testing ;-)
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    Does he mean that the steel of the rod broke, the ball broke off the threaded stud, or that the ball pulled out of the socket? I am picturing a wheel turned hard left, and the front of the tire striking something. As that vehicle has the tie rods behind the control arms, the force would be pulling out in this case. I would still suspect prevoius damage started the problem, and with stock wheels and tires, a wheel would not get bent at slow (less than 25 mph) speeds by a 2 inch curb. As DR stated the wheel on the side with the broken tie rod would turn outward, if she was turning hard left, the vehicle would continue turning, not stop. Therefore she could have hit a pole on the left of the drive, but unless her foot was hard on the gas, the post would stop it before it went very far. "The whole left side" implies significant speed.

     

    Harry
  • Infortunately what we have here is an unhappy camper who gave more details of his wife's sister's aunt's niece's job title than any real details to what happenned. And then he dissappears so we don't know, and probably never will, and does anybody really care? No one was hurt, and the driver was more than likely the reason for the damage in the first place.
  • this fellow has fallen off the planet......
  • keithgkeithg Posts: 1
    Hi all !

    ...Not jumping to defend the guy with the snapped tie rod, but I can produce the dealer repair data for my 2002 Envoy which needed the right side tie rod replaced AND the stabilizer bar links replaced because of loose play in the steering and knocking in the steering column over very slightly seamed concrete highway surface. The vehicle is in new condition, has never been offroad, and to the best of my knowledge not even encountered any significant potholes.(the roads here are in good shape) The vehicle has very good integrity of comfort and usefulness, but has been nothing but headaches since the first week of purchase...the Envoy is a great idea built from the poorest quality matierials which are used in major components such as suspension, engine and drivetrain...Don't believe it ? check with dealer mechanics and local shops, and ask them how many front end parts, rear brake rotors , instrument gauge clusters (yes, the dashboard !) and engine electronics they have replaced... One example is the rear brakes...My emergency brake would not hold from the day I bought the truck new, there is now a law suit pending due to nationwide complaints. The rear brake rotors gave trouble from 12,000 miles, then rusted to pieces, destroying the linings (the dealer has piles of rotors so badly rusted, they cannot even be cut down) In summary, My Envoy is a pampered vehicle, but I am getting rid of it because it spends more time at the dealer than in my driveway, and it only has 34,000 miles on it !
  • 1st time using the internet to research and find a new car. Problem is when I 'build' my car and then go to find it there are none to be found. It doesn't matter if I choose Mazda, Honda, Toyota, Chevy, whatever...there are plenty of base models in the online inventories but virtually zero upgraded models. Is it because this is the wrong time of year (December-January), standard dealer practice to force you to special order what you want, conspiracy, what?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    I suggest posting your message in one or more of the vehicle specific discussions to find out what kind of options others have found to add to their base vehicles.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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