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Help, I'm a new driver and insurance costs are giving me a heart attack

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  • joel0622joel0622 Posts: 3,302
    Then your Aunt is liable if anything happens and they can go after her in a law suit.

    Not to sound like a smart [non-permissible content removed] but the best advice I can give is to move to a state that does not rape you to live there.

    Your rates are 750% higher then mine and I feel pretty confident in saying that a guy who does the same thing I do for a living does not make 750% more on an annual basis.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Your rates are 750% higher then mine and I feel pretty confident in saying that a guy who does the same thing I do for a living does not make 750% more on an annual basis.

    I can tell you that you are absolutley right. I moved to Buffalo from Stamford, CT (originally from the Bronx, NY) and the cost of living is astronomical compared to NYC and suburbs.

    My mortgage payment on a 1500 sq. ft house (yard, garage) in 2nd safest town in the whole US (Amherst, NY dropped from No. 1 spot after an anti-abortionist killed an obstetritian) is $375/month. Compare that to my sister's $3500/month rent on a 600 sq. ft apartment on 34th street and 10th ave in Manhattan.

    Given that we are in different industries, but she does not pull in anywhere near the 10 fold difference in the cost of living. She DOES make more, but only 10-15% more and only because she is in finance field and I am in R&D field.

    A friend of mine who lives in Manhattan is in the same field and makes just as much as I do in Buffalo.

    Some will think that life just stops outside of the isle of Manhattan, but they are just as wrong as the people who proposed that earth was flat and sun rotated around the earth.
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    You mean the earth ain't flat? Dad gum! Thanks for ruining my day.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You mean the earth ain't flat?

    If it helps, you can say that the Earth is flat - locally! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,810
    And if she is listed as the main driver and you're an occasional driver when that's not the case, that could be considered insurance fraud. It would also be fraud if you say that you live at her house when you do not.

    As we mentioned earlier, there's nothing (legal) behind door #3. Pay the high insurance rate or buy a car that's cheaper to insure.

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  • phase2k2phase2k2 Posts: 5
    best i found was a 1993 altima

    3125/6month policy in minium state requirement no comprehensive.

    should i take it or no?
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Posts: 6,213
    "...should i take it or no?..."

    Yes, take it and then drive it to another state that doesn't rape it's drivers.

    2009 PT Cruiser, 2008 Eclipse, 1995 Mark VIII, 1988 GMC Van

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,810
    Hey, now you're thinking sensibly! Buy that, or something like it, and drive it for at least a year. By then, you'll no longer be a "new driver," and you may find that your rate will go down.

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  • olddog7olddog7 Posts: 23
    I know I'm coming in to this a bit late, but what about renting a car? Sounds like it could be cheaper than even owning a car is that area. Although I don't know who rents cars to such young drivers. If insuring a car in the Bronx is over 12k a year for phase 2k2, maybe he should use the public transportation there and take car service or taxis for more important occassions.
  • Here's the lowest price I got in the state of WA, using Geico:

    $516.80 for 2008 Volkswagen Jetta - 6 months
    Bodily Injury Liability(BI) $25,000 / $50,000 $ 301.5
    Property Damage Liability(PD) $10,000 $ 215.30

    I am a full-time 4 year university student with good academic standing. I've had my license for just about 3 years now - always been on my parent's plan.

    Is this too cheap? Too basic? What should I be concerned about? I'm assuming that if the car is financed in my name and the insurance is in my name, they won't go after my 'assets' if something screwy happens (I don't have any assets). If the car is financed, am I required to purchase more coverage?
  • $10k in property damage liability? That's pretty foolish...

    That means if you hit someone else you're only covered up to $10,000. God forbid you hit a new Accord even... up that to $50k or better.

    You don't need huge liability limits if you don't have much in the way of assets, which I doubt most college students will.
  • "...Is it too cheap? Too Basic..."

    As to being too cheap, I assume you mean too good to be true. My 20 year old son with a whole ton of points got insurance comparable to you for $650 for 6 months from Progressive. I thought that was a steal.

    Too basic? It depends. You have no real assets now I presume so there is nothing to lose. However if you have a major accident a judgment can follow you for many years. You could be paying 10% of your wages for up to 20 years in my state.

    2009 PT Cruiser, 2008 Eclipse, 1995 Mark VIII, 1988 GMC Van

  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    edited June 2012
    While Kirstie has explained that their is no insurance fairy out there, I would like to know if there is a "hit list" of the best cars to buy for a brand new driver that won't break the bank on insurance rates? The reason I ask, is that I talked to USAA yesterday, and they were all over the board on advice. They claim that the "new car discount" they give for (current) 2009-2012 models makes buying a 2006-2008 model NOT worthwhile. USAA also did not like the fact that I was looking at the Yaris as one of the three used cars (Fit, Versa, Yaris) for my new driver. USAA claimed that it was "too small and that I should look at a small SUV sized vehicle." As one who believes that it these stupid "trucks" that are causing all the problems on the road in the first place, I balk at that advice. The Fit, in our simulated insurance cost test case acually came out as the least expensive of the three (as I told the agent it should given its great driver visibility; perfect for a new driver). After talking to USAA, they seemed to make it sound like the road was one big smash-em-up-derby and that I should be looking for something survivable. I countered that the best accident is not one that you survive, but rather the one that you don't get in. Are there any insurance fairys out there that know if there is a magic list of cars that insurance companies favor? I know a old clunker is the way to go, but given the advances in safety (9 airbags on a new Yaris), an older car doesn't seem like a prudent idea at first glance. Thanks in advance for your advice.
  • michaellnomichaellno Posts: 4,300
    When you say 'brand new driver', are you referring to a teenager?

    When I went through this with my step-kids a number of years ago (they are 25 and 23 now), my insurance agent from State Farm recommended a Saturn sedan.

    This was when the Saturns were made of plastic panels, so were cheap to repair. In addition, was told that small sedans were generally the least expensive to insure.

    I was told no two doors, no pickup trucks, but they didn't have any evidence that hatchbacks (admittedly more rare then than now) were more or less expensive than sedans.

    Hope this helps.

    I just looked at my last insurance statement - it costs me $10 more per month to insure my 2006 Saturn ION (which my step daughter is rated on) than the 2010 MINI Cooper that I am rated on.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    edited June 2012
    thank you so much michaell. That does help. Yes, it is a teenager. Anyone else have some thoughts? Your comment about 2 doors is funny. I'm considering the 2 door yaris because it moves the B pilar back considerably, allowing excellent side view of cars on one's left. I am also looking at the 2 door because my teenager is not allowed to have passengers (especially teenage ones), thus there is no need for 4 doors. Once again, the insurance companies do not take these issues into consideration.
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 147
    I have had three teenage girls added to my insurance over the past ten years, GEICO. I have provided each a car, Civic Coupe, Scion TC. In all cases, the added insurance for the new vehicle, with child as the primary driver, was $600 - $700 a year. I believe the key factor was all three girls were 4.0 students, in HS and college. Good grades make a huge difference.
  • michaellnomichaellno Posts: 4,300
    I believe the key factor was all three girls were 4.0 students, in HS and college. Good grades make a huge difference.

    Good point. We also were able to get a discount based on grades. In addition, attending a driving school may also reduce the premiums - check with your agent about the guidelines for your state.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,810
    My daughter just swapped a Chevy Cobalt (coupe) for a 4-door, 4-cyl Passat and it is saving me a TON of money. I forget what they told me, but it was significant.

    I'll mention this conversation to our editorial staff. Might be kind of cool if they had a "top 10" or "top 20" list of vehicles for lower insurance rates for teenagers (not beaters, newer ones).

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  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    edited June 2012
    kirstie/michaell/billy: thanks very much. I think a top 10 list would be great. Your experience kirstie seems to point to what USAA was saying: midsized cars over economy cars for lower insurance. From my perspective, I have steered out of so many accidents in the last 40 years because I drive small cars. It seems like the insurance companies want us to drive reinforced tanks to keep personal injury claims down. I'll stick with my econo boxes and avoid bad drivers as I have done for decades. I'll keep cars like the 2012 Yaris with 9 airbags on my short list until insurance costs beat me into submission :D
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,810
    While not specifically about insurance, there's a new article called Best Cars for Teen Drivers on our site. One of the factors in True Cost to Own (which was one of the rating criteria) is insurance costs. Might be worth reading about what's recommended and why.

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