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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • This problem started a couple weeks ago and is not going away. When I first start the engine it will idle normal for a bit , then it will start acting as though it wants to die, sometimes it does. After it is warmed up it doesn't seem to help much ,but it is a little less frequent. While driving it will give you the sensation that it is surging, but it is actually losing power and then coming back up to normal. Coming up to a stop is hit or miss as to if it will stay running or die. It seems to act a little better when the weather is warmer, but does not go away. There is no engine light, lighting up. The truck is an 93' Silverado Ext. Cab w/ 5.7 TBI and 4L60E Transmission, 2WD. Tune is good , the exhaust is new from the manifolds back. The truck has over 220,000 miles on it, but has always ran great up till this point. If anyone has any thoughts on this it would be great.
  • Truck has a vibration from 40 - 50 mph, smooth before 40, smooth after 50. All new u-joints and carrier bearing. Tires are brand new and in balance, did same thing before this new set of tires. Could this be the bearing that is in the tranny tailshaft causing this?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    Well, I'll first disclaim that '93 is far newer than my truck knowledge extends, but after first listen it sounds like a spark problem. It might be worth checking and maybe replacing the coil, wires, and plugs. Have you checked compression on the cylinders recently to ensure they are all good?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • wabuwabu Posts: 1
    possible problem is reluctor that is pressfitted

    on distributor shaft. Had similar problem worked fine while idling in shop, put got erratic when driving.Reluctor starts to slip on shaft and trows spark timing off. just a suggestion. hope it helps
  • recently got an '86 chevy silverado. the gear selector on the steering column has a lot of play and rubs on the steering wheel. how do I repair/replace spring action, or whatever it is that holds it back?
  • hi, i just bought an 86' C10 longbed,standard cab, with a 350 sb, auto trans, and a whole bunch of needed body work! needless to say, it's a project truck. i plan on shaving/lowering/repainting exterior/redoing interior/and making minor motor mods. okay, here is the question...im buying a header/exh. combo from summit tomorrow and welding on turndowns(the stock exh/headers are rusted, dented.) that will get me some more hp, a little more rumble and better mpg...but then i'll want that "camming" rough sound at idle...so i plan on replacing the stock cams with some aftermarkets....but i want to know what lift, duration, and lobe seperation a stock motor can handle...but still have that "cam" sound. i was thinking like a 224 intake duration/0.468 lift/and 110 lobe seperation is about the max...so if someone could tell me the max cam specs it could handle..that would be greatly appreciated. and as i said...im not going to do any other internal motor work besides cams...so it is basically stock. any help would be appreciated...im not to experienced on motors..so any additional comments would also be helpful. sorry for the long post, but i'd hate to freak up my motor just cause of the wrong size cams!

    thanks, anthony.
  • robkay47robkay47 Posts: 2
    My check eng. lite has been coming on.but trk. is running great,free scan at advance showed egr mal. funct.- its a 95, 305 auto 2-wd drive 342 rear and only gets 16.5 to 17.5 mpg.I have 2 caprice wagons lt-1,342 and 373 ratio and they getting 22 - 25 mpg.Egr valve is 207.00 any one had exp. with these probs.
    thanks
    Rob
  • I recently installed a muncie 4 sp w/a hurst super shifter, I did this to gain a gear for better milage, alas, it didnt work, I was turning a bit to much rpms just to reach 70 mph, so I reinstalled my original stock three sp, well it still seems to rev way to high about 3500 rpms at 65 or so, what can the prob be and how can I resolve this and mybe use the 4 sp
  • I seem to still have power when my key is off, when I attach the reg wire on the positive terminal on the battery I get a small spark, without the wire on I have no power, with it on I can start the trk, but not when its not on there, I have traced and traced, help ,someone has to have a clue, If I leave the wire hooked up ,the next morning my battery is dead,so I disconnect every nite, please,any help will be deeply appreciated
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    Out of curiosity, what engine are you running and what is your mpg when running @ 65? I have the stock 307 (no mods, 100% original) in my '69 C20 with "4" speed (3 speed w/ low) and get about 10.5 mpg @ 65. I hit 12-13 or so if I maintain a constant 55. I ask because I do not have a tach on my truck, so I run it by feel. I would guess that at 65, I am probably cruising at around 3000-3200 rpm?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    I am just throwing out some shots in the dark, making the assumption that perhaps it is a short with an end-use and not something like a short in a solenoid. Perhaps the dome light is switched on (even if there is no light in it or the light is burned out), the dome turns on with the dash light adjustment (headlight control, turning left/right rather than pulling in/out) turned all the way to the left and 'clicked.' Or, maybe the cigarette lighter, if you have one, is pressed in and stuck or somehow making a slight connection.

    The electrical flow must be regulated by a circuit or it would either melt the sheathing off wires or blow a fuse. Yet, if it drains your battery overnight, it must also be a fairly significant drain. Maybe your ignition switch is bad? It is not actually turning off, but instead is remaining in the "accessory" position even though the key/tumbler indicates it is off. I have this problem with my '69 Ford van sometimes (except that it sticks in the ON position and the engine will not cut either). On my van, it is not the ignition switch itself, and I have yet to isolate where the problem lies.

    Anyway, I do not know if this is "any help" or not, but good luck with it!
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • marty4marty4 Posts: 1
    My service engine light will not go off. I have taken my truck to 3 different GM dealerships. The first one put a new vapor release line under the hood. They said that would fix the problem. A week later, the light was on again. I have taken the truck to two other dealerships since then. Neither one could figure out why the light stayed on. One did the smoke test on the fuel line. Nothing showed up. None of the dealerships can figure out why the light stays on. My local mechanic said it showed the catalytic converter was clogged. When I took it to the muffler shop, both converters checked out fine. I have changed the spark plugs, wires, rotor cap and button, fuel filter and gas cap. The service engine light is still on. I live in the mountains of North Carolina. The light stays on any time I am climbing a mountain. The engine loses power and starts missing. Any suggestions?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    What year is this truck? It almost sounds like a timing issue. Have you tried to duplicate the problem by driving it under load in other conditions, such as a heavy payload or trailer? If it is related to pulling the hills you are climbing, then any load-inducing situation under similar rpm/gear/speed should duplicate it. What about air flow? Is there something restricting that?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • shumakershumaker Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Chevy K1500 4x4 and would like to lift the front end about an inch to clear my new 285/75R16 tires on Eagle Alloys 102 wheels with 3 5/8 back spacing. I have heard you can simply lift it with adjusting the torsion bars. How much can you raise the front with the stock torsion bars and how much harsher is the ride? Anyone with a similar set-up and or tips?
  • fadedazefadedaze Posts: 1
    yeah sounds like a timing issue to me. but heres another problem for us wrench heads to figure out. i have a 99 c/k 2500 pick up with the 5.7 liter vortec engine, so heres the problem, in the past 2 weeks have replaced the fuel pump 4 times, have already replaced the fuel filter and the pumps only seem to last for abouit 2 days before the start acting up, have taken to gm but no codes, exept for a oxygen sensor, with new pump installed runs like new truck, then wears out after 2 days,
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    I am guessing that the fuel pump is electric? Have you checked to see if there is too much current running to it? I would think that these parts would be properly fuse-protected, but if it is just a slight irregularity, then perhaps any fuses are not being blown, but it is burning out the motor prematurely....

    There doesn't seem like any other reason that the pump would quit unless they were bad from square 1, which is doubtful...
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    I twisted mine up to level without any negative consequence; Rides fine. Just make sure you have the alignment checked after you get it where you want it.

    -David
  • I had same problem with fuel pump. Turned out to be fuel relay under hood. Mechanic says GM had bad relays installed on Chevy trucks
  • anyone know where this switch is located on 1996 k1500 5.0?
  • I have a 1983 C-10 Custom Deluxe that I am trying to valuate but most NADA books and websites that I find only go back to 1986. Can anyone recommend a site or someone to get in touch with?

    Thanks.
  • tburrtburr Posts: 1
    I currently own a 1995 Z71. I have found that I have antifreeze mixed in with the oil. I think the head gasket is bad. The engine is a 5.7L V-8 with 220,000 miles on it. My question is, Can I replace this engine with a rebuilt Diesel engine? Has anyone ever done this before?
  • ryderryder Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Chev p/u 1500 4x4. The anti lock brake activates at low speeds (sometimes without applying the brake). It makes a loud whining noise. It seems to be in the front left wheel only. Is the computer the cause of this or a part that can be repaired/replaced ?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,582
    Are you sure that is the ABS? Typically the antilock system makes a rapid pulsing, "chuka chuka" thumping noise when it engages...
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • ryderryder Posts: 2
    It seems to be the ABS. I pulled the fuse to check it, the noise (whining/buzzing sound) stopped. Put the fuse back in and the noise started again. Also, sometimes the brake seems hard when the noise starts. This happens in all driving conditions.
  • cwheelercwheeler Posts: 4
    Here goes.. Hi everyone, I am a new member but an old fart who is having trouble with his 1984 Chevrolet G30 truck.. Actually a cut away van with a motor home on its back. The unit has the Hydro breaking system. Bought it used, never had real good brakes, but since replacing front discs, calipers, power steering pump, I still don't have good brakes. When I step on the brake peddle, the peddle wants to kick back to my foot, like there is air in the system some place. It also has a hard peddle. Is there a secret to bleeding this hydro system that I don't know. Or do I have a bad hydro? Welcome any and all comments. Carl
  • cwheelercwheeler Posts: 4
    Coming from an old (retarded) mechanic. Your problem indicates a Regulator problem. I am not sure if you have the alternator with the built in voltage regulator, or the older system with an external voltage regulator. Either way, that is what I would check. If that checks out then look for some other draw on the battery, such as was mentioned in another post. Your dome light/ignition swithc or the fuse box. In older cars, water intrusion near the fuse box caused many problems. Hope this helps, Carl
  • tkbeartkbear Posts: 2
    Hello, I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why my engine won't fire , I've replaced every thing in the distributor,did a compression check.that was satisfactory, my truck was built in Canada and it never takes the parts that a305 manual or computer calls for. Any one else out there with the same problem? Help
  • cwheelercwheeler Posts: 4
    If the engine is an 86, and if you have the HEI distributor.. Please understand I do not mean to talk down to you but not being there with you to see what you have, it is hard to diagnose. My first question is.. Do you have a Haines or other manual? Since I am new to this forum, I am not sure how to get or send personal messages. If I did, I would go through the test procedures that way. The first thing you need to do is make sure the engine is in time, NO 1 piston to TDC and the distributor rotor pointing where it should, to NO1 piston. Also make sure the mark on the flywheel is where it should be with the NO1 at TDC. On a 305 the NO1 piston is the first one on your right front as you are looking from the front of the engine. The reason I note this is. On my first Chevrolet engine, I was trying to time it like the old 302 Ford..Go figure. Next. If you have a 12Volt test light. Ground the alligator end to the engine. Stick the probe into the square receptical where the harness plugs into the dist. Stick it in on the "Pink"wire.Turn on the ignition switch and make sure the distributor is getting power. If the light does not light up, that has to be fixed before you can go on. That is also for another post. If the light comes on with the first test. Pull the cap and turn the engine over..If the distributor turns, it means the gear and roll pin are Ok. If not,you need to pull the distributor and replace either the gear or the roll pin. Next, make sure the small rubber washer is under the coil. That is what protects the coil from grounding in the wrong place. Also make sure you have a good ground on the coil.i.e. ground wire. Again, mistakes I made on my first 305. If it is not there, you are grounding the coil and probably have shorted it out. There will be no fire. Also make sure the spring on the graraphite is straight and not bent all to heck. Also that it is was put in right. The little [non-permissible content removed] needs to make contact with the dist cap. Another of my first mistakes. If all this is good. And I might note, you have a battery that has a good charge on it. And the engine still does not fire.. We need to go into the book and do more tests. Sorry to all that this post is so long, hope it helps, Carl
  • cwheelercwheeler Posts: 4
    Did it do it before you changed the U-joints? if it did, I would take the truck and have a dial indicator put on the driveshaft. I.e, just maybe the drive shaft is out of round and needs a weight. In the 50's we had this problem. As for the tranny causing the problem. I don't know.Anything is possible when it comes to man made vehicles. Carl
  • tkbeartkbear Posts: 2
    Well I finally got the ole truck to fire, and she started with a bang, but now I can't keep her running. I can't get the idle to set up or down, and I know it's out of time. Any ideas on how to set up the idle so I can at least keep it running? Ted
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