Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevrolet Equinox Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055
    Have you been into the dealer to see the current offers on the 2011 Equinox? If you would like I can assist you with pre-purchase questions and GM incentives; however, for what the dealer is specifically offering you will need to speak with the dealer.
    GM Customer Service
  • chevyequinoxchevyequinox Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    Looking at leasing a 2011 Equinox 2LT. One dealer said there were no rebates available, but the other said there was some sort of "past GM owner loyalty" type cash which was $1,000. Does anyone know if this is true or not? The same dealer who offered me the extra cash/rebate also gave me the vehicle at employee pricing since I'm a credit union member. The other didn't do either. I made clear to both that I was leasing, not buying, so there shouldn't have been any miscommunication. HELP!
  • AS Canadians are too embarrassed to tell how much more we have to pay for new cars and there is not much
    activity on the Terrain forum, I thought I would post here.

    I ordered a 6 cylinder Terrain SLT-2. Mocha Steel and
    Titanium interior in November. Remember in Canada
    it is nearly impossible to get Invoice Prices without
    paying $35 to a private company. Fortunately, I secured
    a copy from a dealer who lost his GM franchise.

    My trade in was a 2003 Saturn Vue with 90,000 klicks
    (54,000miles). Black Book value, $4-6,000. Dealer
    didn't want the car and offered $2500. I whined and got it
    up to $3000. GM (bless their hearts) had given me a
    Saturn loyalty coupon for $1500 if I traded the Vue in for a
    new GM product so I guess I got the low end of Black Book.

    The MSRP was 38,000$ Canadian (comparable US price
    in New York State, about $31,900 US) This is why Canadians don't talk about how much they pay for cars.
    Invoice was $34,824 vs $30,856 in US. Huge markup difference.

    As I negotiated, I show the saleswomen the invoice price
    she brought in the sales manager, he asked what I thought a fair profit on a $40k car, I said $1000 was plenty and he said sold. I asked about the holdback and
    he said since GM reorganized, Canadian dealers no
    longer get holdbacks. I couldn't refute this but I did
    calculate that Canadian dealers got 9.1% markup over
    invoice while US dealers even with a 3% holdback, only
    got a 6.2% markup. So could be true.

    So the deal was as follows:

    MSRP $38000
    Admin $499
    Security registration $296
    Tire Recycle Tax $29
    Plate registration $20
    Fed and Provincial Sales tax (13% Ouch!) $4244

    Total Price $43,088


    Dealer discount $2176
    GM Holiday Bonus $1000
    Saturn Loyalty Coupon $1500
    Trade In $3000
    GM Visa Points $1500

    Total Deductions $9176

    Payable to Dealer $33912

    I couldn't shake the admin and security fees and got less
    than I figured on the trade in . Since I never hear from other Canadians , I don't know how other deals stack up.
    I'm sure you guys just shake your heads at our prices and taxes, but we do have universal health.
  • Have a sinking feeling that I may have gotten ripped off. I just purchased a 2011 Equinox LT1 with the Driver Convenience package for just under $25000. When I first got into the business manager's office I asked if there were any rebates or anything available on the Equinox. He said that they had some sort of program available for buyers with a credit score of 580 or below, and that with my obviously good credit, I wouldn't qualify. He also said that it's a shame that people with poor credit get the special deals sometime. I had seen commercials about the No payment till Spring, 0% APR, and $1500 Holiday Allowance, available to qualified buyers. But with what the manager told me, I took him at his word. I have tried to do some research about the $1500 Holiday Allowance because I am seeing it touted in all of the newspaper advertisements. The only thing that I can verify is that the auto loan financing MUST be done through ALLY (formerly GMAC) to get the $1500. I cannot find anything about it being only for buyers with a credit score of 580 or lower. I am wondering if the dealer has my $1500 Holday Allowance in his profit. I did end up financing the loan through ALLY at 3.49% for 60 months. Does anyone know anything about this 580 credit score requirement? Or about the Holiday Allowance?
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Sounds like you got taken. If you credidt score is good (usually above 720), you should have gotten the 0% through Ally. Also, you should get the $1500, and that is on top of your negotiated price off sticker. So, say sticker is $26k. You negotiate down to $24800. The $1500 would come off that, so $23300, plus TTL.

    If you live in a state with at three day return policy, I'd tell the dealer you will be doing that if they don't renegotiate your deal. You could also contact GM about the dealer and see if they'll make things right.
  • If the dealer keeps the rebate you would have to sign an authorization in which you consent to the dealer getting the $1500. Call Chevrolet customer service Monday thru Friday and they can explain the program. You could also call another Chevy dealer and speak to a salesman. Tell him you are considering buying an equinox and are there any restrictions on the rebate and zero percent.
  • An opportunity may exist for us to buy a 2005 Chevy Equinox if it is still available in a month or so. I've seen photos of this SUV and it LOOKS great, leather interior and from what I've read, all the bells and whistles. It is the AWD model and has a little over 103K on it. The price recently dropped from $8600 to $8250 but I would try and get it a little cheaper than that if possible. Our only experience with this vehicle is renting one back in 2006 when our Jeep was in the body shop for 3 weeks. It was a FWD model and it was summer time. The longest trip was to a wedding for our niece about 150 miles round trip. My wife and I thought the 'Nox performed very well and got reasonable gas mileage. The ride, we thought, was very good. We can't afford to buy a new one and we want to make an informed purchase if it's going to happen at all. Anything anyone can tell us about their experiences with a 2005 AWD will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and have a Merry Christmas and much joy for the New Year!
  • jingles99jingles99 Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    My 2003 Chev Malibu was totaled in a rear end collision, I was rear ended. Anyway, the striking drivers insurance is paying $8200 for the Malibu, which is alot more I would have gotten on a trade in. In PA, the insurer is required to pay replacement cost, not just book value. So that is one good thing that came out of this. I purchased a 2011 Gold Mist LS, from local Langhorne dealer. List was 23,730. Only option was the bluetooth package. Was able to get them down to $22,250. Went with the 0%/1500 rebate from Ally Financing. Brought the price down to 20,750. Also had $600 in GM card rebates applied, bringing the price down to 20,150. Refused to pay for the added dealer pin stripe, which was $89 bucks. They threw in the pinstripe for free, and first oil change. Would not budge on the $120 doc fee. So, with the $8200 total check, was able to get it for $11,950 before tax and tags. Must say, I am really impressed with the vehicle. Nice ride, and nice interior. I think I did ok on this deal. Any thoughts?
  • klrssklrss Posts: 25
    Incase someone was in the market for a new GM/Chevy product, I wanted to share some info for you to read before you buy.
    I bought a new 2010 Impala LTZ a few months ago. I have 6,000 miles on it now. I have been having this bad sulfur/rotten egg smell from the exhaust since about a week after I had it. I finally brought it into the shop and they said they found no issues, and it is probably bad fuel. I questioned the fact that I can run the same fuel in my 2011 Kia Sorento, and my 2009 Civic without the smell, so I don’t think it is the fuel. They told me there isnt anything they can do and again advised that I run a tank of quality fuel through it and see if that helps. So, I did what they said. I actually ran three tanks of Exxon through it, and one tank of shell, and the smell never went away. I called GM customer service and they asked if I was getting fuel at the same stations, or if the stations were close to each other. I told them yes, except the shell, which was across town. The gm customer service lady said " well, maybe the stations are getting the same fuel, and you might need to try other stations". I could not believe it! My car smells like rotten two other cars run fine on the same gas, I tried higher grade gas like shell and Exxon and still no change, now they want me to drive all over town trying different fuels!!! I tried to get them to understand that I have NEVER had to worry about what fuels I use in any car that I have owned, and I have owned many GM cars in the past, and that they need to look at this Impala. So the customer service lady said to bring it back in and she would tell the dealer to look at it again. I take time out of my day, bring it in, I asked for a loaner and they didn’t provide one, which just added to the fun of it. They looked it over and called me and told me they still didn’t find anything wrong, and didn’t smell it this time at all. Wow! I can’t believe they didn’t smell it! ( or maybe it just looked better on the paperwork for them not to smell anything). I picked the car up and they gave me a TSB Bulletin that basically said that the smell is caused by high sulfur fuels and instructs the service dept not to replace parts because it is a fuel issue. I tried to get them to explain why my car smells, but other new GM cars do not, but they still said it was a fuel issue.
    So, my warning is that if you get a Gm car or truck that smells like sulfur/rotten eggs, GM will not fix this and you will have to endure the smell. I really didn’t expect to pay 25k for a car that smells horrible. I put my trust and money into GM/Chevy, and that was a mistake. Now I get to smell sulfur when I pull up to the drive-thu’s ( banks/Fast food), and have family/friends who follow me to places tell me my car stinks, and clients who I have in the car tell me " have that fixed, it is the catalytic converter"...etc.
    I would highly recommend that you go with a Kia, or Honda, or some other brand that actually can burn any fuel out there without it smelling. Gm seems to not want to disclose that their cars can not burn today’s fuel cleanly, because if they did, there would be many folks that would not buy...including me! I hope this helps someone who feels this service issue would be important to them if they purchased GM.
  • roho1roho1 Posts: 317
    So the Chevy dealer never checked the catalytic converter? The whole scenario seems odd to me.
  • klrssklrss Posts: 25
    No unfortunatley they didnt. The dealer really didnt want to look at it in the first place. They asked me if I had a check engine light, and I told him no, and so he tells me " then there isnt anything wrong..if it isnt running right it will throw a code". The first time I brought it in, they ran it on the " machine" and it came out fine. The must have smelled it, since they told me it was bad gas...but I was smelling the smell when I still was running the first tank of gas from the dealer about a week or so after I had it. It IS an odd senario..and I cant understand why they wont look at it. I bet I could go out and find a new car on the lot that does NOT smell...but they insist is isnt the car and if it smells then it is bad fuel. Just crazy! I just loved how they show me the TSB, and in the TSB it tells the tech NOT to change out the cat. So, because of that, they wont even try. He told me, " we cant just start replacing perfectly good parts to see if one is not working". Nice.. :lemon: And I know this is not an Impala Forum, but the TSB applied to cars and light trucks, so wanted to pass it on.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    MSRP $26815 (V6 with Pioneer system and 18" wheels - neither of which I wanted but they ream it down your throat). Dealer discount to $25500. Loyalty rebate of $1000, GM "points" of $4200. Tax of $300 (flat in this state). Out the door $20,700+ (including tax, tag, title). By my standards this is a lousy deal, but I think it's the best I could do on an Equinox right now. By comparison, my '02 Impala was purchased for $12,200 (from a $22,040 MSRP). Granted, $1000 more in GM dollars that time, but the dealer discount was also bigger and so was the rebate. I think it's only a matter of time before the rebates start showing up on these Equinoxes. The inventories are more plentiful now (than in 2010) and the sales will start slowing down (I think they already have). So if you don't need to buy right now, I'd sit back and wait a while. The pricing is going to soften up with better rebates and dealer pricing going forward.
  • On the Chevy website, it says that if you own a 99 GM car or newer, you are eligible for $1000 loyalty cash. Supposedly Saturns are included as a GM car. But a local dealer is saying no, full MSRP or nothing. Am I wrong?
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,233
    Well 99 or newer Saturn does qualify for loyalty cash per the loyalty website. If its a salesperson saying that, go in in ask for a more knowledgeable salesperson.
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Find another dealer. They are trying to squeeze you. And it isn't even them, it is GM, who takes the hit on incentives like that. But to ask for full MSRP is theft at this point in time considering the supply of Equinoxes has increased drastically. You should be able to get one for at least $1000 off MSRP, PLUS any incentives right now.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    edited January 2011
    It's a '99 or new GM vehicle that qualifies. Saturn is a GM vehicle, so it qualifies. But dealerships will do anything to squeeze money out of you. When I bought my 2011, I knew I qualified for the $1000 Loyalty Rebate. But I let the salesman play his game asking me if I owned a '99 or newer GM car, then looking excited like I was going to get a great deal. The "deal" was $1000 off MSRP!

    Nice try.

    When making your offer, all you can do is use those bogus Edmunds numbers. I say they're bogus because they come from GM (they HAVE to), and why would GM be honest about what it really costs them to build their cars? What they WANT is for you to THINK you're getting a great deal. But the reality is those numbers HAVE to be padded and even if you nail a deal at invoice, the dealerships are STILL laughing all the way to the bank!

    So go to Edmunds and build your car and calculate the invoice price including destination charge. It'll probably be around $1300 below MSRP. Make an offer BELOW this number (a few hundred bucks) and work UP to it. THEN deduct the $1000 Loyalty rebate from that (plus any other discounts you might have like GM 'dollars'). If you qualify for multiple discounts, say the USAA rebate (if it's still on), call GM first to find out which rebates can be used together. You don't want to be caught flat-footed at the dealership with a salesman giving you bad information (always in their favor, by the way).

    As for the dealer you're dealing with ... try another salesman. Don't throw out the baby with the bathwater just yet. And if you're a woman, I'd bring a man in with you. Just a guess, but I think women making deals by themselves end up with bad deals. You have to be nice with these people (a woman's strongpoint), but you can't let them run the show. And don't be afraid to walk out if you feel you're being pressured. The car you want is probably sitting at multiple dealerships. Get a price from all of 'em. It doesn't matter where you buy the vehicle, you can get it serviced at any dealership.

    OH - forgot to mention .... make sure you ask UP FRONT what the dealership's stupid "doc fee" or "admin fee" is. This is a scam that dealerships started about 20 years ago. It's a way to tell you the vehicle costs $X, but then write you up for $X + fee. It's very common for these fees to be as much as $300 - $500 !!! And it's all legal. All the dealership has to do is charge everybody the same fee. But if you KNOW about it and factor it into the offer so you know what the ACTUAL cost of the vehicle is, it's no problem. If you can buy a $20,000 for $15,000, the "fee" can be $14,999 as long as the vehicle only costs $1.
  • Well, at least we wrote up the paperwork for it. Now the dealer has to look for one already built to our specifications. We *did* qualify for the GM loyalty cash for the 99 Saturn, did not qualify for the special financing (ALLY) for people with credit scores under 580. We also bought the extra protection for both the exterior and interior as we expect to keep the car for at least 7 years and, here in the great Northeast, winter road salt is a real concern.

    I'll let y'all know how it works out.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    Why don't you look for the car yourself? Personally, I think it's a lousy website, but you can go to, build your car, and search for it right there. The problem with this poorly-designed search engine is you specify EXACTLY the vehicle you want, and then it shows you stuff you didn't ask for (and tells you it's EXACTLY what you want)! The list ends up being longer than it should be, but it's better than nothing I guess. The other way to go is to search the dealer websites themselves (which is what I do). You can search for dealers within X miles from where you live then build yourself a list of hyperlinks to these dealers' websites that you can continuously search waiting for the car you want. I like going to the dealership where the vehicle is and buying it myself. When the dealer locates the car for you and transfers it to your local dealership, there's a cost involved for that and your car gets taken on a "joyride" by a salesperson. I like odometers with less than 20 miles on them. "Transferred" vehicles with hundreds of miles on them make me cringe.

    Also, I lived in New England until the age of 29. Winter road salt causing cars to rust up there is a thing of the past. I would say it's been a non-issue for at least 20 years now. And keeping a car for 7 years is nothing. Even at 20,000 miles per year, that's only 140,000 total miles. Any car today can do that with little or no trouble if it is maintained correctly (and honestly) ... the latter being the difficult one ...
  • Well, the dealer just called and said they can't find one for our price. I did go on Chevy's site as you suggested and ran into the same problem you did. I didn't find one either, but it gave me a place to start. I will start going through individual dealer sites now.

    Of course, I *could* take the upgrade for $1000 more, or wait for a new one to be built and delivered...
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    Here's another thing you can do: Go to and search by make, model, etc. ... but enter a SPECIFIC PRICE RANGE (as narrow as you can get it). You can also put in the search radius (as far as you're willing to drive to go get the vehicle). For example, after studying all the trim levels and options I could get on an 1LT Equinox, I came to the conclusion that the MSRP HAD TO BE $26,800 or $26,815 to have the equipment I wanted. If you zero in on a specific MSRP like this, you can use AutoTrader to find your car. One minor problem you'll find, however, is sometimes the dealer will list a vehicle MARKED DOWN (instead of at the MSRP). I found this was rare, but when it happened, I ended up with LT2's or LTZ's in my search list (because their MSRPs were, say - $28,000, marked down to the $26,800 range.

    You can try, too, but it's not as good as autotrader because you can't search by specific price range. You get a LOT more junk in your search list. Also, keep in mind that the autotrader (or searches won't show ALL the vehicles in your search radius, just those listed by dealers on these sites. I don't know what the participation level is with dealers on these sites, but I would bet it's pretty high. More exposure probably means more sales.

    What exactly are you looking for? Are you looking for a unit that simply isn't built? For example, I REALLY wanted a "stripped" V6 with only Cargo Management added. No such animal. No dealer will ever have one. And I don't think you could even order it! If you want the V6, you're going to get the Pioneer stereo and 18" machined wheels reamed down your throat, whether you want these options or not. You can add the Cargo Management package onto this, but you can't take away the other two options.

    I'm guessing you want the 4-cylinder engine. That's what everybody wants because the fuel economy is (supposedly) good. There's PLENTY of 4-cylinder Equinoxes out there (2011's). If you're looking for a V6, well, that's another story. I betcha the ratio of "4"s to "6"s on dealer lots is something like 100:1 !!

    Just re-read your post. You say the dealer can't find one "for our price". Sounds like they're playing games with you. The car is probably out there, but they just won't transfer it and sell it to you at your price.

    Find the car yourself, make the offer directly to the dealership that has the car, then go pick it up. Don't let them talk you into something more expensive that you don't really want. The car you want is very likely out there sitting on MULTIPLE dealer lots (in various colors). You just need to find ONE of them. But make offers on ALL OF THEM because some dealers are really tight-fisted (smaller dealers with 100-150 new cars) and others are less so (larger dealers with 200+ new cars). Also, keep in mind that if you ORDER one, you'll only get whatever incentives are ON at the time the vehicle arrives at the dealership, so that's tricky. I think it takes AT LEAST 6 weeks to build an Equinox right now, so chances are the current incentives will expire before the car arrives. You're better off finding vehicle on a dealer lot when you KNOW what the incentives are. The current incentives expire next on February 28th. The bonus right now is if you own or lease a '99 or newer GM vehicle, you can get an extra $1000 Loyalty rebate. So between the dealer's discount and the Loyalty rebate, that's around $2300 off MSRP for a 1LT (a lousy deal by my standards, but if you want an Equinox, that's the best you're gonna do right now).

    Go to the GM site, put in your ZIP code and find all the dealers within 50 miles (or more if the list is scant). Then click on the dealer website button for each one and save the link in the address bar to a Word file. This will be your quick hyperlink list to search the individual dealer websites. I hope you have a high-speed internet connection because dial-up will bog down so bad you'll get discouraged and quit.

    Good Luck!
Sign In or Register to comment.