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Chevrolet Equinox Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • He must like the movie "Back to the future". Wow!
  • yakkyakk Posts: 2
    I would like to start off with, we leased a GM Certified used Vehicle from a GM Certified Dealership, with an EXTENDED GM service contract.

    I can say that the essence of GM customer service to follow you on a Certified Used lease or with their extended warranty sucks.

    Our Equinox has recently had issues with the shifter and shifter cable. Still inside of the 80k/ 5 year extended warranty we purchased GM refuses to fix this issue under said warranty. WHY?

    Apparently, a fuse cap was lodged in the linkage and caused this to happen.

    We have only had our vehicle serviced at Authorized and Certified GM service centers, so when the issue began, we brought our vehicle into one of them. The date they have for the warranty expiration is 2 years short of what we have on GM service contract, but we managed to get it in, 1 day before the date they have for warranty expiration.

    Here we go.

    The fuse cap as described by a mechanic is approx 8"x5" and is made of plastic. The shifter linkage is Metal. A former GM service manager explained to me:

    I would have better odds of winning the lottery then to have this cap find its way into where it could cause damage to the linkage. It would have to navigate its way past the air filter and wiring. Not something that is just likely to happen. He also explained that things happen and the reason for a warranty is just that. Following up this, he said, stuff falls off of space shuttles, it's just a fact of life.
    Secondly he added, when he spoke to the service center, they had explained that they took the cap out from this area, and placed it back onto the fuse box. He questioned that it fit so well. If a "PLASTIC" cap that damaged "METAL" linkage, in the winter months of Calgary (-30), it shouldn't fit back perfectly.

    He had explained that as a former GM Service Manager, the Shifter cable and Shifter if was defective, should be replaced under warranty as the likelihood of everything up to this point was near impossible.

    After calling an additional GM service center, the words from the Mechanic who responded to our call for an estimate on parts and service were, "Oh no, not another one of these".

    GM maintains that because this cap had to be physically removed, certainly would not have come off by itself, that any factory warranty would not cover it. With a check of recall history, 2005, the only recall on the Chev Equinox was for the shifter cable. **wink wink**

    http://www.autorecalls.us/aut-04/recalls/2005/chevrolet/equinox/47007.html

    We have been without our vehicle for 3 weeks, and it is only be repetitious calls into GM customer service that we would even get an answer on this. I had given up on the agent who was investigating our case as she never returned any of my phone calls. Finally going through the main switch board again, I had explained my frustration with the agent handling our situation, to the point she offered to help. Upon her explaining service to me, as if she was a certified mechanic, and us not coming to an agreement, she stated, "I am wasting my time on the phone with you", that because I was not in agreement, that the whole conversation was a waste of her time. When I clarified if it was in FACT GM Customer Service and if she was a customer service agent, and to verify that she had stated that talking to me was a waste of time, she quickly recanted her statement. When I asked to speak to her supervisor over her "Wasted Time", statement, she said that because it was not her case to deal with that she would not let me speak to her supervisor.

    Now it gets good.

    The primary agent just called me back. When I spoke to her previously, I had explained that I wanted a speedy resolve, and that because parts would need to be ordered, (as per the service center), a better understanding of the warranty coverage would be appreciated. She stated that she had called the service center but hadn't gotten a call back. I had a shower...I called the service center and asked if they had received a call from GM and Why they hadn't called my agent back. The service center explained that they had "just" talked to GM about our situation, and that we could expect a call back from them. This was at 1:30pm, Thursday December 23rd.

    We are 1 week later and it is only after my prompting that we received this call back.

    Lianne, extension 2377. We're sorry that we are not going to be able to cover this under warranty. I have talked to the dealership and have closed the case.

    Me. When did you talk to the dealership?

    Lianne. December 23rd.

    Me. Then why has it taken a week for me to hear back from you.

    Her. I talked to the service manager and went home, you are just on my call back list today.

    Me. Your shift according to your message is from 11:00 EST to 8:00EST, you talked to the dealership at 3:30 EST and went home?

    Her. I did not.

    After her getting all pissy with me because I called her a liar, I requested to speak with a Supervisor...She explained that I could, but the answer would still be the same on the warranty. I told her that I was at this point interested about her lying to me and that she lacks severely in customer service skill sets.

    Take your business elsewhere...If you are still interested in purchasing a GM product, at least save your money by not purchasing an extended warranty, you will need it come time to service anyways.

    But really, would you stand behind a product when even the manufacturer wouldn't'?
  • Sad thing is - after all the time wasted, this problem is probably fairly easy to fix.
  • yakkyakk Posts: 2
    Yes, but now that the dealership/service center has, "Rendered the Vehicle Un-driveable", and now that I have tried to go through GM to address my concerns, the dealership is now wanting an authorization for this $1700 worth of service.

    Ya really have to love coincidence though...

    1. That even though my Extended Warranty clearly states that it will expire in the year 2012, according to GM, it Expired the day my vehicle was brought into the dealership. **wink wink**

    2. After Lianne had told me that the Service Center never called her back, she miraculously got in touch with them on the very day that I called her...**wink wink**

    3. That after taking a week to hear back from GM Customer Service, 2 weeks of my Equinox parked in for service, it was only my turn to have a phone call returned after calling in...**wink wink**

    4. That parts never fall off of vehicles and it was only the 2005 Equinox that there was a factory recall on the Shifter Cable...**wink wink**
  • I've been having a problem with my key getting stuck in the ignition and this morning after trying to take it out for over 15min I just left the key an had someone watch my car while I dropped off my son at the daycare. The power train light came on and also the check engine light so I drove it to the chevy dealership, I explained what happened and left the car, when I went back they said the ignition box needed to be replaced and that the warranty would not cover it! I think the problem is greater than that but they just look at me as if I'm dumb or something. Has anyone else had this problem?? Oh by the time the mechanic started inspecting my car the engine light and the power train light magically turned off and the computer didn't find a problem with the codes.
  • It's funny that you posted this. I have a 2009 equinox and my key got stuck last week in the ignition. To make a long story short, my father is a mechanic and told me to spray some WD-40 into ignition and wiggle the key around inside. After a few wiggles, the key turned over. Could have been a built up of debris inside.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,064
    er...I am really pleased you freed up the lock, but really, WD-40 should not be put into locks. Graphite lube is the best as it does not attract and retain debris, as WD-40 does.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,275
    In addition (taken from the world of antique clock repair) WD-40 in time tends to gum up, debris or not.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,064
    True enough, but you know, sometimes you gotta use what you have, to get out of an emergency. Hopefully, no adverse effects will occur.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • tracy9tracy9 Posts: 5
    edited March 2011
    Does anyone know how to remove the plastic covering at the back of the roof rack so I can install my own cross bars. I tried to pry on them a little but it seems like I will just crack them.
  • osrvosrv Posts: 2
    I drove my '10 Nox to the dealership, today. Same problem. Can't get the key out of the ignition lock.
    This happened one time in Aug '10. Not since then has the key stuck until Friday.
    The service writer at a local dealership indicated that the problem was caused by a defective ignition lock solenoid. I don't believe it. The problem feels like a cable sheath has come loose causing a simple adjustment to appear like major problem.
    I found that the key will come out if you QUICKLY rotate the key from Off to Lock. If you gently try to remove the key, it will lock up every time.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,109
    osrv,
    Have your issues been resolved?
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • clebo1clebo1 Posts: 78
    My Issues with the Cac-Gm customer service has not been resolved, they keep teeeling me i do not contact them back I have over 15e-mails where could not get a hold of Raymund the specialist who was handling my claim,I offered to take my vehicle to a dealer qwhich i frequently used and have gm pay the charges to repair once and for all,i neeed someone at gm to authorize repaid for me totaling approx / $ 1500. can anyone do that as for the keys,you will have to have your lock changed as i did when it was noticed the key for the dooor and the ignition came from the factory and did not mact the door.so i had to pay almost $300.00 out of my pokcet for a locksmith!!! :mad:
  • mig66mig66 Posts: 3
    It has been a while since I have responded to my post. AfterI put on my second set of Wagner rotors with ceramic brake pads since the semi-metallic ones were not doing the trick, I drove around and realised the front driver side rotor was twice as hot as the left side rotor. Took it to the shop, Firestone, the next day and had the calipers replaced because of a ceased piston. So now I have new Wagner rotors, ceramic pads and new calipers on there thinking everything would be good now. No, brake squeal at 30mph and lower when stopping came back within the first month and the rotors have warp to them now at 76k miles. I took it in three days ago for a tire repair and rotation but had them check the brakes because of the squealing. I had them clean out the drum brakes and adjust the if need be so I could eliminate that as a cause for the squealing. after their first test drive they noticed the sqealing and put the anti-vibration goop on the back of the pads but said that may only be temporary. It was, within a day the brakes were squealing but not as bad. I checked Chevy's service bulletins and they have on for that exact problem for their cars and said it is just normal. I showed the guy at Firestone and he agreed that was the same problem I was having. I have tried brake pads with the goop and without the goop and in either case the brakes eventually start to squeal. So, my next step will be to replace the clips that hold the pads into the calipers since they have been messed with so much and they are cheap to replace. I re-torque my lug nuts after getting it back from Firestone just to make sure but they always air-gun them on there then torque them to the proper amount so I don't have to do much. after these rotors wear out i may try some EBC rotors and pads or just their pads with Wagner rotors. Don't know yet and don't really want to think about spending any more money on this problem even though I enjoy problem solving it.
  • Dear Doug,

    I have the same problem. What is the solution?

    Thanks,
    Anthony F.
  • pamt523pamt523 Posts: 5
    I too am having the key problem after putting car in park, turning key to off and try to remove. Probably 4 times out of 5 it locks up anywhere from a few seconds to 30 seconds. I notice when it does lock up I am able to push the button on the shifter and take it out of park even with the engine off. Seems like something is up with the shifter. Any ideas?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,109
    pamt523,

    Were you planning on having the vehicle looked at by your dealership? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • pamt523pamt523 Posts: 5
    Yes, I will probably have it looked at next week. Thank you for checking on me.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,109
    pamt523,

    You're welcome! Please keep me posted when you do have a chance to have the vehicle looked at.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • equinox8equinox8 Posts: 1
    My engine light JUST came on yesterday. I read the book, looked at my gas cap it was loose, tightened it. Added gas this morning, closed gas cap tight and engine light STILL on. I've had my car serviced regularly so I am wondering if this is a "ploy" to get you in the dealership because I just hit 37,111 miles (past my 36,000 warranty miles of course - go figure).
    Are there any reset buttons that perhaps my Oil Change place missed for this just before the 36,000 change?
    Is this a way for them to get you in and get a diagnose becasue it will cost me money?? My sposue is not mechanically inclined and I dont' need this astronomic car repair bill right now! My car is NOT making any noices, no smells etc...runs fine the way it always has.
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Posts: 134
    The computer may have to run through a certain number of ignition cycles with the fault fixed before it will turn off the light.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    You are correct on that. It takes so many cycles over a few days.
  • kris66cakris66ca Posts: 1
    I'm sure this has been posted somewhere on this website, but I thought I'd ask again as I'm new to this site.

    For the last few weeks the tailgate back hatch would only open occasionally. Now it won't open at all. I have been googling this problem and it seems it could be a number of things.

    Something inside the latch itself is disengaged.
    Something called an accentuator ( not sure what this is)
    Fuse
    Solenoid

    I saw somewhere saying there is an emergency release latch inside the cargo area under the carpeting. I looked and couldnt find anything of that nature. Maybe it's under the spare?

    I have not got a few hundred $ for the dealer to fix it. I really need someone to tell me what it could be...where to look. Please someone advise me on what to try. I have friends coming from overseas soon, and it would be extremely embarassing to not be able to open the back of my car for their luggage lol

    Please advise where and what this accentuator is and if it could be a fuse, where this is situated for me to look.

    Thanks soooooo much for replies.
  • earljoeearljoe Posts: 1
    we recently purchased a 2008 Equinox with 32000 miles - great car except for 1 problem. The headlights (both) seem to sweat and have moisture inside that won't go away! We have had as much as 2-3" of water in there. We had a local mechanic look at them and he says he has never seen anything like it. They are not "leaking" (he could not find any cracks or leaks) but appear to be condensating - BUT after we go through a car wash or a wet/rainy day, more water seems to appear in the headlights. Its beginning to cause corosion on the bottom of the headlights. Has anyone had this and do you have a solution short of replacing them? There are air holes with covers and they appear to be ok (according to the mechanic)
  • pamt523pamt523 Posts: 5
    Well, I have had my car to the dealer twice. First time, of course could not duplicate problem.....2nd time it locked up on them but they replaced a part on iginition, but the problem is still happening. I hear a click when I know I can remove key.....what could that be?
  • sumr616sumr616 Posts: 90
    I've read about this on another forum as well- the problem was that the latch was not lining up properly with the metal bracket, so it would get "stuck". Some had their dealer fix it, but others fixed it themselves. It sounded like it was relatively easy, maybe do a google search on it, just a little adjustment. Probably only takes about five minutes.
  • rugbymomrugbymom Posts: 1
    No warning, really blew - burned plates, parts everywhere. Chevy rebuilt it - question, should I keep the car? I've seen posts on Edmunds indicating this is a common problem. Is a rebuilt tranny the same as the old one (so the original design is bad) or do you think they have fixed whatever causes 2008 transmissions to fail? And suddenly by the way, no slippages, no warning.
  • kpoticherkpoticher Posts: 1
    i have had nothing but problems with this car. My major problem right now is the bucking or jerking that my vehicle is doing when I am driving. I thought i got bad gas at first but I have tried different gas since and it is still doing it. Another thing the dealership that i take my car too says they cant do anything about it because there is no dash lights coming on. My rear wiper blade is not worked in over three and half months and they say the part is on back order.I took it in for a noise coming from the front tires and it still is making the noise and they are billing me for it. i have so many other problems with this car that it makes me never want to buy another chevy again. When i first bought this vehicle i loved it cause it ran good and now one problem after another and the dealership doesn't want to help me out at all.
  • The battery light has started coming on when accelerating hard/going up a hill and stays on until I release the pressure on the pedal. No apparent impact to performance. Have had no prior problems. Replaced the battery last year. Took it for service and they said the alternator was on its last legs so we swapped out the alternator last week.

    Just got back from a weekend trip and the light is still coming on when accelerating hard only now, it's kicking off the cruise control and A/C. The A/C comes back on once the acceleration evens out.

    I'll be taking it back in for service this week but am hoping someone has had a similar experience or thoughts about this so I can go in armed with some information...

    Thanks!
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