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Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    17"s...so I'm sure you actually have some sidewall. Rare nowadays. :D
  • michaellnomichaellno Posts: 4,300
    edited February 2013
    17"s...so I'm sure you actually have some sidewall. Rare nowadays.

    The CX-7 has 19"s .. fortunately, with 28K on them they still seem to have a decent amount of tread life left.

    I'm figuring about $1K for a replacement set when the time comes.

    EDIT - Discount Tire offers 9 different choices (235-55/19). Starting at $200 per tire and going up to $304/tire.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yikes. And sadly that's not nearly as high as it goes nowadays.
  • fintailfintail Posts: 34,293
    Sidewall, I don't mind it. I'll still dodge manholes and potholes, but normal bumps and ruts won't kill me.

    The wide rears on the E55 were ~$350 apiece, before installation.
  • rayainswrayainsw Posts: 2,576
    At 21,000 miles plus, I can not tell for sure
    if they will need to be replaced before
    lease end.....
    They ride OK, given 40 & 35 series Z-rated,
    as well as runflats.
    - Ray
    $1,400+ at tirerack.com
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm hoping that's for the set. ;)
  • rayainswrayainsw Posts: 2,576
    Yes, set of 4 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 ZP ...
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,442
    Buy a cheap tire gauge or stop at a tire store and you can tell what tread is left. Remember, a month before your lease is up, you can check with other dealers on the best turn in deal. Some may want to charge you for tires and some may want the car as is if it has good resale potential.
  • jpp5862jpp5862 NCPosts: 376
    I did 12k on my lease and even taking the car out west this summer I'll still be under. I work from home so my around town miles are very low.

    I'd love to see the C250 come over but sounds like it won't be here by the time my lease is up.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,979
    I've got almost 19K on my BMW Continental Run Flats (17"). I'm happy so far. I don't think the ride is overly stiff at all. Just right actually.

    The Run Flat Tire Technology has come A LONG WAY. My Mom had an '08 E90 328xi that she constanly complained about the car's harsh ride.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium

  • breldbreld Posts: 1,433
    Funny you say that - my wife and I were just commenting on how harsh the ride was on her '08 328xi compared to her new wagon, which has larger wheels. I didn't know what was different, but it makes sense that the tires themselves have simply gotten better.

    2011 BMW 535xi - 2015 GTI - 2008 A3 - 2009 Ody

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,626
    not runflats but our new RDX does have nice big sidewalls (235/60 I believe). Given the condition of the roads around here, the more the better.

    they are 18" though, and right now prices are nuts to replace, so I hope they can push near 50K, but I have had terrible luck lately with OEM Michelins (barely 30K on the Odyssey).

    In a few years there may be more choices to pick from too. thankfully we really don't put many miles on (should stay pretty close to the 10k/year, depending on the next college location, and if we do move in another year).

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (daughters college car)

  • breldbreld Posts: 1,433
    Just swapped out the wheels on my wife's wagon with the winter set (that we had purchased from the previous owner). 16" wheels! Unheard of! But ideal for the snow.

    I don't look forward to the cost of replacing the tires on our 3's with the staggered set up. Hopefully they last for a little while (and don't hit all at once!).

    2011 BMW 535xi - 2015 GTI - 2008 A3 - 2009 Ody

  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,442
    Look on the bright side, Breld, even though the new tires will be costly, you can have fun researching product and price for at least a month. The only thing better than spending money, is planning the purchase.
  • tifightertifighter WAPosts: 1,395
    Breld, buddy, you are doing this wrong. When the tires are bad, it means it's time for a new car.

    You're worrying us.

    15 Leaf / 08 RDX

  • breldbreld Posts: 1,433
    The only thing better than spending money, is planning the purchase.

    So so true.

    2011 BMW 535xi - 2015 GTI - 2008 A3 - 2009 Ody

  • breldbreld Posts: 1,433
    You're right tifighter - what was I thinking? :P

    2011 BMW 535xi - 2015 GTI - 2008 A3 - 2009 Ody

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,677
    I wasn't worried. I was thinking, "I doubt they're going to go bad in the next six months!" :P
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • breldbreld Posts: 1,433
    I'm starting to develop a bit of a reputation here. :blush:

    Am I the akangl of the lower 48?

    2011 BMW 535xi - 2015 GTI - 2008 A3 - 2009 Ody

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,626
    I think you can coexist. She is the truck person, and you handle all the BMWs and other nice cars.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (daughters college car)

  • ronsteveronsteve Posts: 435
    Yes, the 2014 Forester will keep the FB25 engine and now gets a CVT.

    The FB25 is nice - timing chain, separate coolant flow to the heads, and easy access oil filter at the top of the engine. Could use DI to make a bit more power, though.

    32mpg highway for the AWD model will be best in class.


    I wasn't a huge fan of the CVT in the Impreza when I had one as a rental.

    That said, I'd give up a couple MPG to do my own shifting... wonder if the 6th gear on the new-generation Subies has alleviated the screaming highway RPMs of the previous NA Outbacks?

    Could be a tossup between Outback and Forester if I am forced to go Subaru to get the 3rd pedal...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good point, the base model has a 6 speed manual option. I'm sure 6th is as tall as it's ever been.

    The turbo CVT can also simulate 6 or 8 steps, which may feel more natural to someone who doesn't like CVTs.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Looked it up for ya...

    6MT:
    1st 3.454, 2nd 1.888, 3rd 1.296, 4th 0.972, 5th 0.780, 6th 0.695. R 3.686, Final 4.444:1

    Looks like 3rd-6th are all overdrives, but the final drive ratio is pretty short.

    The CVT has a HUUUGE spread, 3.581-0.570, R 3.667. Tall Final drive at 3.70:1
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,426
    Ask and ye shall receive... from an outback forum, forget who wrote it but i copied the information...

    "60 MPH, 6th, 2100 RPM. 36.0-37.2 MPG. Still very effecient, even at a moderate speed, this is the speed I typically drive at(all highways here are 55-70 limit) and I routinely get 550-600 miles per tank(33-36 average)."

    there you go.
    cheers -mathias
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    edited February 2013
    Thanks.

    It would be useful to compare to the OB's CVT ratios, which are:

    CVT in manual mode: 1st gear 3.581, 2nd 2.262, 3rd 1.658, 4th 1,208, 5th 0.885, 6th 0.618. final 3.90

    CVT in automatic D mode continuously varies between 3.581-0.618

    So the Forester has a taller final drive, and a taller lowest ratio on the CVT. It can probably get away with that since it's lighter than the Outback.

    You lose some aero, but not much. No wonder the Forester is rated higher in MPG.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,677
    I wouldn't characterize them as "screaming" RPMs. Surprisingly, my Fiesta runs at higher highway RPMs than my Forester, by a couple hundred given the same cruising speed. Happily, I get 40+ out of that (vs. 28-29 for the Forester) when cruising 68-70.

    That said, I certainly wouldn't mind an extra gear (assuming lower overall ratio) for highway cruising in both of them if it meant better fuel economy.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I remember in the OB threads people saying at 80mph the rpms were way down near 2000rpm, so the Forester should be relaxed at cruising speeds.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,677
    For CVT, right? I don't talk in automatics, sir. That's a foreign language. :P
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yes, the CVT.

    At least Subaru offers a stick!
  • ronsteveronsteve Posts: 435
    I wouldn't characterize them as "screaming" RPMs. Surprisingly, my Fiesta runs at higher highway RPMs than my Forester, by a couple hundred given the same cruising speed. Happily, I get 40+ out of that (vs. 28-29 for the Forester) when cruising 68-70.

    The screaming RPMs were when I test drove a 2006 Outback, and 70mph was clearly above 3000rpm, seemingly rather undignified for a car of its size and class.

    Also test drove a 2007 Forester, which was definitely more relaxed... didn't get on the interstate with it, but did get to 60mph at roughly 2300-2400 rpm, so it would be more like 2700-2800 at 70.

    The WRX that I tested around the same time was similar to the Forester. I could about kick myself for not getting that car... we know my insurance man would have been happy! ;)

    In a perfect world, the 6-speed would have similar gearing for 5th, with a taller 6th for better cruising. And that's what I was most curious about.

    The CVTs do have very tall top ratios, but if I am stuck not shifting my own, I think my next vehicle would probably be a Honda CR-V. :/
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