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2006 Chevrolet Impala



  • rysterryster Posts: 476
    The rear defroster relay is located in the underhood fuse block, in the engine bay by the battery. The cover on the fuse block simply pops off, and the rear defogger relay is labeled "REAR DEFOG". When looking at the fuse block, the rear defogger relay is on the right side, and is rather large and square shaped.

  • i have impala ls 2007 with rearview with onstar and maplight ... it possible to remove the old mirror and installed the auto-dimming rearview with onstar. the plug is same .... Is it necessary to program the bcm??

    thank for help
  • i have impala ls 2007 with rearview with onstar and maplight ... it possible to remove the old mirror and installed the auto-dimming rearview with onstar. the plug is same .... Is it necessary to program the bcm??

    thank for help
  • bdd6bdd6 Posts: 8
    Every now and then (I think usually during the winter months...could be wrong here) my LS would have troubles starting. As if something was draining the battery.

    It wouldn't start last week. I think on Tuesday. Had to get it jump-started. Was fine for the past several days. Have been driving it daily. Though the last few days when I turned the key it wouldn't start immediately. Took a second and a half maybe. Then started. This is from a cold start. After having it sit on my driveway overnight. Once started I can shut down my car. Come back and it would immediately restart. No hesitation. What is going on with my car?

    I Googled and on another thread they said it could be the PCM or a faulty alternator. That maybe the PCM was triggering the doom lights. For some reason something seems to be draining the battery overnight. Not good.
  • deminindeminin Posts: 214
    How old is your Impala? If it's more than a couple of years old, it could be something as simple as the battery starting to go bad. If you have a voltmeter, check the battery voltage after it sits all night, or for a couple of days....before you try to start the car. If you don't read 12volts or better, you may have a battery cell going bad. We didn't drive our '06 LTZ for well over a month recently....nasty weather and using the 4WD Dodge Dakota...and the battery went totally dead, and wouldn't even hold a charge. It would read 14 volts with the charger on, but a couple of hours later, it would be back down to about 8 volts, and wouldn't even turn on the dome light. I put in a new Autozone Duralast Gold w/8 yr. warranty.

    You might also check your trunk light. Pull a back seat cushion forward, and look to see that the trunk light isn't staying on. A faulty switch can keep this light on, and can drain your battery substantially in just a few hours.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    >Took a second and a half maybe.

    How did the cranking speed sound? How cold was it? What weight oil is in the car?

    Heavy oil for winter turns very thick and slow cranking speed. A weakening battery does the same. Poor connections at the battery can also affect this. Check for corrosion at the grounding end of the cable at the battery.

    To check for drain due to glove box lights and trunk lights my technique was to rapidly open that item and feel the area around the light bulb. IF the bulb has been on the area will be nicely warmed from the continual heat. When the door is first opened, the surrounding area should not be very warm; after being open a miinute you'll feel the increase in heating.
  • bdd6bdd6 Posts: 8
    I don't think any lights were left on over night. Though I haven't checked that. Should my car again fail to start the next day I will try that.

    But I did take it to the shop this past Tuesday. Found out my battery was dying. Couldn't hold a charge above 8 volts. So I guess when it's cold (e.g. -5 or colder) the volts would be even less. Was told there should be at least 9...I think for the car to start. The new battery was tested before I left. Read 11.7-12.8 volts. Though that was in the shop. Not during a cold morning before a cold start. Was -18C up here in Toronto today. No troubles starting. So it's not the cold. But likely my old battery on it's last legs. Though, that would be in less than 4 years.

    I guess this box can simulate where the voltage reading would be on a very cold day. Which is why my old battery kept reading roughly 8 volts. Whereas the new one 11.8 to just under 13.

    Wait a sec...if so then I should have got a free replacement battery no? AC-Delco battery's should be warranted for 5 years. DAMN. Maybe I should have taken it to the dealer. Though my car's 3-year warranty was up. I totally forgot about the warranty when I was at the shop.

    Might report after a few days. The last time (after getting my battery jump-started) managed to start my car from Wed-Sat. But wouldn't start on Sunday. Should start tomorrow now with this new battery...knock on wood.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    Have you driven the new battery long enough that the alternator will have charged it fully?

    All batteries will be at 12.6 volts with only slight variation due to temperature. That's the electromotive force of a lead-lead sulfate chemical cell.

    What happens is that during cranking, the high load on the battery allows the voltage to drop. If the voltage drops below 9 some of the computer parts don't work right. The colder the temps and the thicker the oil, the harder the motor is to turn over and the drag lowers that voltage.

    You have a new battery. I suspect the warranty left on the old battery and the price they would have wanted adjusted for the warranty might be more than what you paid for a replacement already. I don't know how long the original AC batteries are warrantied. I'd have to read my owner manual?

    Enjoy your new battery.
  • bdd6bdd6 Posts: 8
    Have I driven my LS enough to warrant a new alternator? Unlikely. I've only put about 17k on it. How long are OEM alternators good for? My LS was bought in the summer of 2006. Or there bouts.

    Found out the battery that came with the car is covered for 3-years or 36k. So I was past the warranty period any how. My shop buddy did mention this. Just remembered. So no loss.

    Thanks. I see now more clearly why my mechanic friend told me there must be 9 or better. My old batter, as I said, would not stay above 8. No wonder it would eventually go dead. My new one should be good. Will be driving today (Sun) again. And probably every day for the next few days.

    And when you said "all batteries will be at 12.6 with only slight variation due to temp..." did you mean at all times. And when you said "variation" did you mean in very slight degrees...usually staying above 11? If so then I shouldn't have anything to worry about at this point. As long as my car doesn't sit outside for weeks. Not that I will ever do that. At most my car has sat outside for 2-3 days. My mechanic said at -20C my battery should be good for roughly a week.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    Re the alternator:
    I assume your mechanic checked the output of the alternator to be sure it was charging properly. Alternators can fail from 0 to hundreds of thousands of miles. I had a 93 where the alternator failed (lost one of the diodes out of three at 75K); it made a whining noise. I have a 98 with 170K and 03 at 100K with original alternators. If you're not sure take back by the shop and they will check it for nothing or a small fee. Or stop at one of the box stores to have them check, but usually they want to check cars potentially needing new batteries or alternators at the box stores, so they might view you or me stopping for a check with a new battery as a pain.

    The only downside is that alternators working extra hard to charge defective batteries sometimes wear themselves out and fail earlier.

    Do you have a voltage gauge or digital readout? The alternator should charge 15 or 16 volts after a cold, cold start and taper down to 14.5 or so in cold weather. As the temp gets warmer the charge voltage goes slightly lower.

    The battery voltage is chemically controlled at 12.6 for the 6 cells. This is the water pressure through a garden hose. During draining to crank the car, the amount of current, like volume of water through a hose, drops because the chemical reactions cannot form new electrons as quickly due to lower temperature down nearer zero. This is why one rating on batteries is cold cranking amperes at zero degrees F.
    That's when we'll notice a slower cranking speed.

    Because all cars have slight drain on batteries keeping computers alive at their settings, including clocks, radio settings, computer for power trains, I don't like leaving a car sitting more than 4-5 days. If you can just start the car and idle for 10 minutes, that's more than sufficient to recharge the battery.

    Never let a battery run dead if you can help it. That causes the surface of the plates to be rebuilt completely with a new layer of lead and ages the battery a good degree. If it does go dead, recharge with a long drive and lots of idle time in one cycle rather than lots of short trips with the lights, AC, blower, on using current.
  • bdd6bdd6 Posts: 8
    Thanks for taking the time to explain why when really cold (e.g. sub-zero temps) it might take a second or two longer to start. Today, I didn't have anywhere to go but wanted to see if the battery would hold the charge and start my car. It did. Relief. Was only -7C today though (past two days it was -18C). The previous week, with my original battery, the car only started for 4 days )Wed-Sat) before dying again on the Sunday.

    I won't be leaving my car sitting outside in subzero temps for more than a day or two (e.g. usually weekends) if i do. On average my car is driven 6 days a week. For more than 10 minutes easily. So I should be good from now on.

    Regarding the I mechanic friend did tell me it was fine. Must have done some kind of testing. Should have asked him how he knew.

    Any how since this is considered an aftermarket battery bought from a garage it comes with a 6 year warranty. Or so the AC-Delco website says. So I should be good for at least another 4-5 years as far as the battery is concerned.

    Is there a "Ferrari of batteries" out there? One that has proven extremely reliable even under extreme conditions (e.g. -35C weather, car sitting outside for x-number of days...etc.)? I know one of you said you don't need to exactly match a battery (by cca) to a specific car. That I could have installed one with over 700 cca. True? Is there such thing as too much cca? Just in case in the future I have to replace the battery again.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    > know one of you said you don't need to exactly match a battery (by cca) to a specific car. That I could have installed one with over 700 cca.

    Picking batteries is like picking stocks on the market.

    I have had good luck with Walmart's Maxx battery in my 98 LeSabre. 8 or 9 year warranty and started weakening at 7 years or so and got an adjustment on a new one. It's made by Johnson Controls which makes lots of things for the auto industry.. I had put in the larger of two sizes that would fit my Buick. Walmart doesn't have one for my 03 with battery under back seat with vent tubes required. I'm disappointed.

    As I indicated, battery life is more based on how it's treated than just the warranty period alone. Recharging to full charge and keeping it there helps keep the plate surfaces in proper condition and helps prevent growth of needles of material that short out a cell as a battery ages.
  • bdd6bdd6 Posts: 8
    How would you recharge a car battery to full without taking the battery out of the car? And how would you know it's at full capacity? It's not like you can take the car battery out and attach it to some portable recharger as you would a set of AA's.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    When I put in a new battery, I drove the car for more than 30 minutes without high load accessories turned on so that the alternator could finish charging the battery. It was my understanding they are minimally charged when sold.
  • bdd6bdd6 Posts: 8
    Well, after I got my new battery installed I drove roughly for 20-30 minutes total in the nearby area. Then roughly a 30-40 minute drive home up the highway and then onto city streets before heading home. So if it takes roughly 30 minutes for a full charge then I must also have done so.

    So far my car has started every day since I got my new battery installed. Which was last Tuesday. Should continue this way for months if not at least 4-5 years out of the 6 year warranty.

    Though, I have read about how (online) another 06 Impala owner who had swapped in a new battery. Only to have it die again 10 days later. So I guess I'll just have play it by ear. Though I think in that one case they found out it was his alternator and a faulty diode. I know my alternator is fine so hopefully I'll be okay.
  • My heat also stops blowing at a stop.I also hear a girgling sound in the dash.The strange thing is a 'ticking' sound from the dash.It will 'tick' about 10-15 times randomly.If I unlock the car with the remote,if I shut the door?It was worse it first.It would 'tick' as I went down the road.I noticed if I changed the vent circulation in the car it would stop?It is loud enough you can actually feel it if you put your hand on the dash.(passenger side)Im out of warranty and dealer wants $100 just to look at it.We just moved and I dont have a dealer I can trust here.They may be honest but I dont have the money for the gamble.I have worked at dealerships before and know of the wild goose chases that get expensive and you are stuck once you start.Can anyone help me?Thx
  • rysterryster Posts: 476
    It sounds as though you have 2 problems here. First, the gurgling sound you hear is the coolant in the heating system. There is most likely an air bubble in the lines, and the system needs to be "burped". This is also causing your loss of heat while stopped. You could try burping the system yourself, or the dealer could do it.

    The ticking sound you hear is a stuck actuator that controls the opening and closing of the vents. The actuator can be replaced by the dealer. The average cost to replace the actuator is $600-$800.

    Both of the problems you are experiencing are relatively common for the Impala. A competent dealer should easily be able to resolve these problems, although the total cost could easily be $800-$1000. My suggestion would be to get the heat issue fixed first, as it presents a comfort/safety concern (and is less expensive than the actuator issue.) The ticking sound is annoying, but if the vent system is still functioning for the most part, it is certainly a repair that can wait until it becomes absolutely intolerable.
  • i baught this on feburary 1st 2010. My question is, when you put the heat on is it normal for the compresor to cool at the same time? The ac goes on too. Is this normal or is there something wrong with the switch?
  • iggmeisteriggmeister Posts: 1
    Help please!!! I own an 06 impala and yesterday it just died on me. it cranks but will not start, i took it to the mechanic and said it was the fuel pump, but when he took it out and checked it, it was fine, it seems that it is something electrical, the power locks do not function properly, when activated, they make a clicking noise (Like when the battery is dead), the reverse lights are very dim, but the starter cranks just fine and the power windows and the head lights seem just fine. it seems to me that maybe the fuel pump is not getting enough juice and there fore will not start, but i just don´t know, has anybody had this problem with their Impala?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    Start with checking the grounds from various parts of the car. I don't have Impala specific knowledge, but just know from others that when strange things happen check grounds everywhere and check battery connections (are yours under the rear seat?).
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