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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    You've said - battery is good. Just because lights come on that may not mean you have enough juice going to the starter. Have you actually tested the battery?
    If the battery is weak that is what happens - it just clicks once and that's it. Try to jump start the car with cables.
  • rcarr7rcarr7 Posts: 19
    Actually that is EXACTLY what happened when I needed new batteries ! So if it does jump start (with cables) that is the most likely scenario. R/R old oem battery with another new oem battery. (tops 3 mins) . I bought and deployed a battery trickle charger (Battery Tender Plus if you are interested) and it did last a couple months longer. :sick:

    The oem provided battery lasted all of app 33 mo ? Coming from SUV's whose oem batteries last 8 to10 years, that does not make me happy. However I am told 4 years is normal (tops) for (ANY) a battery to last.
  • I tried jumping the car, I had the battery tested at an automotive shop. I was getting power the starer so I don't think it is a relay 109 problem. I pulled the starter and had it tested and the "machine" said it passed, but it did not spin at all. I am going to put a new starter in tomorrow and see if that does it.
  • rcarr7rcarr7 Posts: 19
    That is the real end of "systematic trouble shooting", to eliminate the likely suspects and/or get it down to the most likely. Since the starter did not turn over the motor with the extra help, the next logical step is the starter. (actually two component parts that actually do most of the wear in the starter)
  • redvwredvw Posts: 40
    I had my 09 TDI towed into a V.W. Dealer today for a Major Oil Leak. The details are as follows: I parked my TDI in my driveway this morning after a local drive. No mechanical problems were observed. In the afternoon I went for another drive. I barely got out of my driveway when the cars oil light started blinking, and the MFD said STOP the vehicle-low oil. I pulled back in my driveway and noticed several liters of oil on on the ground under my car.
    I had my vehicle towed to the dealer by a flatbed tow truck. The service manager called me into the shop and showed me that the oil filters housing cap had been screwed loose, and placed on-top of the housing upside down. The cap had a small piece missing just before the threads begin. Since the car had 1 1/2 quarts of oil still in the oil pan the service manager did not feel that any engine damage occurred.
    I explained to the manager that I had been home all day, that my car was locked, alarmed, and parked in my driveway. The manager insisted that someone did this damage to my vehicle. He could not explain how someone was able to get in the vehicle without the key, and without causing any damage or leaving any tool marks, or setting off the car alarm.
    I had my vehicles 10K service done at this dealership 800 miles ago. During that service the wrong oil was used, and the vehicle was severely overfilled with oil. These problems were caught by myself, and corrected before leaving the dealership.
    Is it possible that the dealer caused a third problem during my 10k service, such as not properly tightening the oil filter's cap, or was my vehicle vandalized by a Mission Impossible impersonator? Is it probable that engine damage occurred to the vehicle? If what the dealer said is true this vehicle has a severe security flaw!
    I notified V.W. customer service of this event. I was told that it would be escalated to a field representative. :sick:
  • Yes, this has been a past problem with VWs that I had hoped we had all overcome. It seems there is a race of intergalactic travelers, the Coilonions who have an inveterate fondness for the taste of VW parts- they stop at nothing to get at VWs....

    It was thought that the Coilonions had returned home in the mid '00s, but they seem to have reared their ugly heads again. There is, of course, a small chance that the service tech at your VW dealer could have mis-threaded the oil filter cover, but this caper has the stench of the Coilonions written all over it. Tremble in fear. ;)
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Who was the dealer? What City and/or State so that we can all be aware?
  • redvwredvw Posts: 40
    Platinum V.W. Hicksville, NY
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Normally, I always replace OEM battery with Optima battery. Non-liquid battery's technology is far superior to anything else although the price ($ 160.00 on average) is probably the reason why most manufacturers don't put it originally to start with.
    Optima rules!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,648
    The circumstantial evidence is strong for a dealer screw-up but proving it won't be easy given the amount of time involved since the service. If I were an imaginary judge I'd have to see pictures of this cap and how it works.

    The dealer may be right that no engine damage has occurred but I'd carefully document everything that has transpired since the service---just in case.

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There is no question OPTIMA battery is superiour technology to LA (lead-acid) wet-cell. The Odyssey battery is even better than OPTIMA.

    These batteries claim 12-year lifespans or you can get the same amount of starting-power for 1/2 the weight..... some people NEED these features.

    HOWEVER: Unless you need the features offered by these advanced technologies, your $$ is better spent elsewhere.

    A standard LA (lead-acid) battery costs a lot less than the above-mentioned ones.. In fact, you could replace a standard LA battery several times for the same price of the fancy ones.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Yeah, agreed .... there are Odysseys but there are also Kinetiks, Trojans, WestCos and others, just to name a few.

    But I like the spiral/gel/AGM (Absorbent Gas Mat) technology that traps and re-cycles gas, to be the best for my application and climate location, not to mention the fact that these don't have to be mounted in upside position, do not cause corrosion, they are much lighter, etc.

    Yes, they are pricey but they are truly maintenance free and last much longer (as you have mentioned) than standard lead acid batteries. It's money worth spent for a long time worry free operation. I have had some of those in my previous vehicles as well as marine applications and found Optimas to be the best (last Optima I put was in my son's 05 Subaru Forester not long ago....).
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,025
    I've never had a lead acid battery last less than 5 years. Since a good l/a cost less than $100 usually and I never know if I will keep a car more than 4-5 years (after I replace the battery) I think it would it is overkill to spend $200+.

    The batteries I buy are pretty much worry and maint free for the life of the battery. I don't think the average driver really needs one unless they live in Death Valley or Alaska possibly or they have some very special application. Like when is the last time I had to install a battery on it's side or upside down or worried that it may when 10lbs more than some other battery??? Never in over 40 vehicles owned.

    Sorry, I guess we are getting off topic somewhat. Although I guess batteries apply to all vehicles, this is probably not the thread for this discussion.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,648
    Batteries on diesel cars have to be stronger than regular car batteries. That's something to consider when you buy a replacement.

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  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,025
    Didn't know that. Why? Are the OEM batteries on a Jetta TDI a lot different than the gasser versions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,648
    I would think the engineers would make the TDI battery more powerful, yes. Diesels are a compression-start engine as you know, and ultra-high compression engines need more powerful starter motors, which in turn.....

    Also, there's a glow plug system to support, in addition to all the usual amenities of modern cars.

    I'd expect the alternator to be different as well. .

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  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,025
    Tks. Makes sense. It would be interesting to find out if they actually do use a significantly higher grade/more powerfull battery or is it the same battery just tasked harder.
  • What is the capacity of manual transaxle for 2006 Jetta TDI? Also, what designation, i.e. SAE 80W-90, 75W-90, API GL-4? Thanks!
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Well AGM technology, originally developed in Germany, will soon dominate the U.S. auto battery market. Right now, Johnson Controls Company makes and distributes almost all major brands sold in the U.S., including batteries sold by Sears, Walmart, Costco as well as most major aftermarket brands sold in various auto parts stores.
    Check this link, if you are interested to learn more. Lead-acid batteries will soon disappear!

    http://www.themanufacturer.com/us/profile/204/Johnson_Controls
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Consider yourself officially informed! The TDI battery is essentuially the most powerful LA battery that can fit in the battery-tray. The "gasser" volkswagens come thru with smaller, less-powerful batteries. (less lead = less weight = lower freight charges to ship the vehicles over the ocean.)

    NOTE: Most batteries are priced such that the COST is the same for a given "grade" battery. This means, people with "gasser" VWs can ask to have the TDI battery installed and the COST will not be any different than installing the origial-sized battery.
    I have done this on virtually every "gasser" VW I have owned since my 1979 VW Scirocco.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with you... the ONLY time I have seen need for a fancy AGM (Odyssey) battery was in a vehicle modified for drag-racing. To reduce weight and gain space for the turbocharger-plumbing.

    I found it amazing that a battery smaller than my motorcycle-battery could start that engine.... but that is the magic of a $230 battery.

    Personally, I will stick with $80 LA batteries in my road-going vehicles. They last over 5 years even thru Vermont winters starting the engine at -15F.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    For VW/Audi xmissions, many people have "experimented" and found that the original G070 fluid is the VERY BEST in those xmissions.

    RedLine MT90 comes in a close 2nd.\

    As for capacity... I do not have the factory service manual in front of me but I seem to recall the capacity is 2L
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,648
    You could probably power your ignition system with 8/ 1.5V flashlight batteries---but of course not much else and only for a short time.

    But not glow plugs---they are a heavy draw, which is why they carry a what....80 amp fuse? 50 amps? Something like that. My Benz diesel needed 80 amp fusing.

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  • I have a 2009 Jetta TDI with 6,700 miles. I have now had dashboard warning lights come on twice, the first for emissions and the second, now, for an airbag fault. I live in Colorado, where we just had a freak autumn snowstorm of about 20 inches. The airbag fault light came on around then. I thought the sensor might just have got wet. It was a lot of snow.

    When I took the vehicle to the dealer for the first emissions light incident, the tech said he couldn't reproduce the fault. He told me that the computer will find what it thinks is a fault, turn on a warning light, and then keeps on testing. If it can't reproduce the circumstance that caused the fault light to go on the first time, it turns itself out. Is this true?

    If so, I wonder if the airbag fault light is the same sort of thing.

    Any ideas on how to avoid killing a day with the car at the dealer for every time a fault light comes on and probably doesn't mean anything significant?
  • redvwredvw Posts: 40
    Read these complaint in which two 2009 Jetta's had unnecessary air bag inflation's.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov

    1. ODI ID Number : 10286347
    2.ODI ID Number : 10275729
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Well formulated bpeebles... except:

    "less lead = less weight = lower freight charges to ship the vehicles over the ocean"

    I hope that was a joke, right?

    Ro/Ro vessels that haul cars across the Pond are not paid by weight but per unit/car. Many manufacturers (like VW) have their own sub-contracted vessels and shipping costs are appx $ 150.00 per car, regardless of the weight.
  • I would like to do this through Tirerack.com but they say I have to buy tire pressure monitor sensors. Is there a way to run without them ? I have a 2010 TDI Sportswagon.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,941
    Yes it's fine to shun TPMS for the winter- I override it with a small piece of black electrical tape. Tire shops may be prohibited from proceeding like that.
    Theoretically you could make a typo and indicate to tirerack that your car was an 06 without TPMS and then they'd ship you TPMS-free tires/wheels for your "06 TDI" that would coincidentally fit your 09 too.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,648
    I think it depends on the system being tested, but yes, generally if there is a "one time only" fault, the check engine light will reset. I'm not sure about other types of warning lights however.

    Quite frankly, if I own another German car, I'd buy a good scanning tool and take care of these warning light resets myself. They seem all too frequent.

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  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    That's a good idea - if I ever have a problem with warning lights that is what I will do - buy a good scanning tool....never had those problems with many other cars that I have owned in the past....but I guess, nowadays, when there is so much electronics in newer cars (and related charges for simple corrections by dealers) a good scanning tool is a must!
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